coasts pmt Flashcards
(96 cards)
What is the coastal system considered as?
An open system that receives inputs and transfers outputs
Inputs can come from terrestrial, atmospheric, or oceanic systems.
What is dynamic equilibrium in a coastal system?
The maintenance of balance in a natural system despite constant change
Inputs and outputs constantly change to maintain the balance.
What are sediment cells?
Sections of coasts bordered by prominent headlands where sediment movement is contained
Each sediment cell can have smaller subcells used for planning coastal management.
List the three main areas of coastal inputs.
- Marine: Waves, Tides, Salt Spray
- Atmosphere: Sun, Air Pressure, Wind Speed and Direction
- Humans: Pollution, Recreation, Settlement, Defences
What are outputs in the coastal system?
- Ocean currents
- Rip tides
- Sediment transfer
- Evaporation
Define stores/sinks in the coastal system.
Areas that store sediment and material
Examples include beaches, sand dunes, and cliffs.
What processes link inputs, outputs, and stores in the coastal system?
- Wind-blown sand
- Mass-movement processes
- Longshore drift
- Weathering
- Erosion
- Transportation
- Deposition
What is the primary source of energy at the coast?
The sun, primarily through wave energy generated by wind
Tectonic activity and underwater landslides can also generate waves.
What is wave refraction?
The process by which waves turn and lose energy around a headland
This focuses wave energy on headlands and dissipates it in bays.
What are constructive waves?
Waves that deposit material, creating depositional landforms and increasing beach size
Typically formed by weather systems operating in the open ocean.
What are destructive waves?
Waves that remove material through erosion, decreasing beach size
Usually formed by localized storm events with stronger winds.
Fill in the blank: The area of land between the cliff’s or dunes on the coast and the offshore area is called the _______.
littoral zone
What is the tidal range?
The difference in height between high and low tides
It is largest in channels like river estuaries.
What causes rip currents?
A buildup of water at the top of the beach due to plunging waves
The backwash is forced under the surface, forming a current that flows away from shore.
What is a sediment budget?
An assessment of gains and losses of sediment within a sediment cell
It compares inputs and outputs to determine the state of dynamic equilibrium.
What is a negative feedback loop in the coastal system?
A mechanism that lessens changes within the system
For example, storm erosion can lead to sediment deposition as a balancing response.
What is a positive feedback loop in the coastal system?
A mechanism that exaggerates changes, making the system more unstable
For example, damage to vegetation on sand dunes increases erosion.
How does longshore drift work?
Sediment is moved along the beach due to prevailing winds altering wave direction
The swash approaches the coast at an angle, transferring sediment along the beach.
What are the characteristics of high-energy coastlines?
- Associated with powerful waves
- Typically have rocky headlands
- Frequent destructive waves
- Erosion exceeds deposition
What are the characteristics of low-energy coastlines?
- Associated with less powerful waves
- Occur in sheltered areas
- Sandy beaches
- Deposition exceeds erosion
What is the role of gravity in coastal environments?
It is responsible for tides, which influence water levels
Tidal range is affected by the positioning of the moon and sun.
What happens during a spring tide?
The highest high tide and lowest low tide occur when the sun and moon are aligned
This creates the largest possible tidal range.
What is a neap tide?
The lowest high tide and highest low tide occur when the sun and moon are perpendicular to each other
This minimizes the overall gravitational pull.
What are the main processes of erosion in coastal environments?
- Corrasion
- Hydraulic Action
- Corrosion
- Attrition
- Abrasion