coasts pmt Flashcards

(96 cards)

1
Q

What is the coastal system considered as?

A

An open system that receives inputs and transfers outputs

Inputs can come from terrestrial, atmospheric, or oceanic systems.

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2
Q

What is dynamic equilibrium in a coastal system?

A

The maintenance of balance in a natural system despite constant change

Inputs and outputs constantly change to maintain the balance.

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3
Q

What are sediment cells?

A

Sections of coasts bordered by prominent headlands where sediment movement is contained

Each sediment cell can have smaller subcells used for planning coastal management.

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4
Q

List the three main areas of coastal inputs.

A
  • Marine: Waves, Tides, Salt Spray
  • Atmosphere: Sun, Air Pressure, Wind Speed and Direction
  • Humans: Pollution, Recreation, Settlement, Defences
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5
Q

What are outputs in the coastal system?

A
  • Ocean currents
  • Rip tides
  • Sediment transfer
  • Evaporation
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6
Q

Define stores/sinks in the coastal system.

A

Areas that store sediment and material

Examples include beaches, sand dunes, and cliffs.

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7
Q

What processes link inputs, outputs, and stores in the coastal system?

A
  • Wind-blown sand
  • Mass-movement processes
  • Longshore drift
  • Weathering
  • Erosion
  • Transportation
  • Deposition
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8
Q

What is the primary source of energy at the coast?

A

The sun, primarily through wave energy generated by wind

Tectonic activity and underwater landslides can also generate waves.

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9
Q

What is wave refraction?

A

The process by which waves turn and lose energy around a headland

This focuses wave energy on headlands and dissipates it in bays.

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10
Q

What are constructive waves?

A

Waves that deposit material, creating depositional landforms and increasing beach size

Typically formed by weather systems operating in the open ocean.

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11
Q

What are destructive waves?

A

Waves that remove material through erosion, decreasing beach size

Usually formed by localized storm events with stronger winds.

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12
Q

Fill in the blank: The area of land between the cliff’s or dunes on the coast and the offshore area is called the _______.

A

littoral zone

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13
Q

What is the tidal range?

A

The difference in height between high and low tides

It is largest in channels like river estuaries.

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14
Q

What causes rip currents?

A

A buildup of water at the top of the beach due to plunging waves

The backwash is forced under the surface, forming a current that flows away from shore.

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15
Q

What is a sediment budget?

A

An assessment of gains and losses of sediment within a sediment cell

It compares inputs and outputs to determine the state of dynamic equilibrium.

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16
Q

What is a negative feedback loop in the coastal system?

A

A mechanism that lessens changes within the system

For example, storm erosion can lead to sediment deposition as a balancing response.

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17
Q

What is a positive feedback loop in the coastal system?

A

A mechanism that exaggerates changes, making the system more unstable

For example, damage to vegetation on sand dunes increases erosion.

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18
Q

How does longshore drift work?

A

Sediment is moved along the beach due to prevailing winds altering wave direction

The swash approaches the coast at an angle, transferring sediment along the beach.

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19
Q

What are the characteristics of high-energy coastlines?

A
  • Associated with powerful waves
  • Typically have rocky headlands
  • Frequent destructive waves
  • Erosion exceeds deposition
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20
Q

What are the characteristics of low-energy coastlines?

A
  • Associated with less powerful waves
  • Occur in sheltered areas
  • Sandy beaches
  • Deposition exceeds erosion
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21
Q

What is the role of gravity in coastal environments?

A

It is responsible for tides, which influence water levels

Tidal range is affected by the positioning of the moon and sun.

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22
Q

What happens during a spring tide?

A

The highest high tide and lowest low tide occur when the sun and moon are aligned

This creates the largest possible tidal range.

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23
Q

What is a neap tide?

A

The lowest high tide and highest low tide occur when the sun and moon are perpendicular to each other

This minimizes the overall gravitational pull.

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24
Q

What are the main processes of erosion in coastal environments?

A
  • Corrasion
  • Hydraulic Action
  • Corrosion
  • Attrition
  • Abrasion
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25
What is cliff erosion significant for?
It provides a significant sediment input in areas with unconsolidated cliffs ## Footnote Erosion can retreat coastlines by up to 10m per year.
26
What process reduces erosion in bays?
Wave refraction dissipates wave energy and a beach protects the coastline behind.
27
What is erosion?
The removal of sediment from a coastline by different types of erosion.
28
Define corrasion.
Sand and pebbles are picked up by the sea and hurled against cliffs, causing erosion.
29
What is the difference between corrasion and abrasion?
Corrasion involves throwing stones at a surface, while abrasion involves rubbing stones against a surface.
30
Describe attrition.
Wave action causes rocks and pebbles to hit against each other, wearing each other down.
31
What is hydraulic action?
Air is forced into cracks in rocks by crashing waves, causing the cracks to widen and the rock to fracture.
32
What is cavitation?
The formation of tiny jets of water that erode rock due to the implosion of bubbles under high pressure.
33
Define corrosion in the context of coastal erosion.
The erosion of alkaline rock by mildly acidic seawater.
34
What is wave quarrying?
Breaking waves exert pressure on a cliff, directly pulling away rocks.
35
List factors that affect coastal erosion.
* Waves * Beaches * Subaerial processes * Rock type * Rock faults * Rock lithology
36
How does wave action influence erosion?
Most erosion occurs during winter months when waves are more destructive.
37
What effect do beaches have on coastal erosion?
Beaches absorb wave energy, reducing the effects of erosion.
38
What is mechanical weathering?
The breakdown of rocks due to physical forces without chemical changes.
39
Explain freeze-thaw weathering.
Water enters cracks in rocks, freezes, expands, and causes the rock to crack further.
40
What is chemical weathering?
The breakdown of rocks through chemical reactions.
41
Define carbonation.
Rainwater absorbs CO2, creating weak carbonic acid that dissolves calcium carbonate in rocks.
42
What is biological weathering?
The breakdown of rocks by organic activity.
43
What is soil creep?
The slow movement of soil particles downhill due to wetting and freezing.
44
Describe solifluction.
The flow of thawed surface layers over frozen layers in tundra areas.
45
What triggers mudflows?
An increase in water content in soil reduces friction, causing earth and mud to flow.
46
What is a landslide?
A rapid movement of a block of intact rock down a cliff face.
47
Define a wave-cut notch.
A notch formed by erosion concentrated around the high-tide line.
48
What is a beach?
A depositional landform created when sediment is deposited near the coastline.
49
What is beach accretion?
The buildup of a beach by constructive waves.
50
What is beach excavation?
The removal of sediment from a beach by destructive waves.
51
Explain the process of flocculation.
Clay particles clump together due to chemical attraction and sink.
52
What is the significance of negative feedback in coastal erosion?
It can reduce the rate of erosion by creating protective features like wave-cut platforms.
53
What occurs when waves lose their energy?
Beach accretion ## Footnote Beach accretion is the process where sediment is deposited, building up the beach, typically during summer months.
54
What is beach excavation?
Removal of sediment from the beach by destructive waves during winter months.
55
What are the two types of beach alignment?
* Swash-aligned * Drift-aligned
56
What characterizes swash-aligned beaches?
Wave crests approach perpendicular to the coast, leading to limited longshore drift.
57
What is the result of drift-aligned beaches?
Longshore drift causes sediment to travel far along the beach, potentially forming a spit.
58
What are berms?
Ridges that mark the high tide line at different times of the year.
59
What are cusps in beach morphology?
Small curved dips in the beach where the swash comes in.
60
What are runnels?
Smaller ridges found in smooth wet sand, caused by the tides.
61
Where is larger sediment typically found on a beach?
Toward the top of the beach.
62
What is a spit?
A long narrow strip of land formed by longshore drift extending out to sea.
63
What is the significance of a spit in coastal geography?
It can create a salt marsh due to the sheltered environment.
64
What is a barrier beach?
A beach or spit that extends across a bay, joining two headlands.
65
What happens when a barrier beach becomes separated from the mainland?
It becomes a barrier island.
66
What is a tombolo?
A bar or beach that connects the mainland to an offshore island.
67
What forms offshore bars?
Sand deposited offshore where waves lack energy to carry sediment to shore.
68
What is plant succession in coastal areas?
A plant community that changes over time due to sediment supply and deposition.
69
What are the stages of salt marsh succession?
* Algal Stage * Pioneer Stage * Establishment Stage * Stabilisation * Climax vegetation
70
What role does vegetation play in coastal environments?
Stabilizes landforms and reduces erosion.
71
What are the different types of sand dunes?
* Embryo Dunes * Yellow Dunes * Grey Dunes * Dune Slack * Heath and Woodland
72
What are estuarine mudflats and salt marshes?
Areas where deposition occurs in river estuaries, leading to sediment accumulation.
73
What is isostatic change?
Localised change in land elevation relative to sea level.
74
What causes eustatic change?
Factors like thermal expansion and changes in glacial processes affecting global sea levels.
75
What are rias?
Flooded narrow winding inlets and river valleys caused by rising sea levels.
76
What are fjords?
Flooded deep glacial valleys creating natural inlets and harbors.
77
What is contemporary sea level change?
The ongoing rise in sea levels observed since the last ice age.
78
What is coastalisation?
The process of developing coastal areas and increasing population density.
79
What is a storm surge?
A rise in sea level caused by low pressure during large weather events.
80
What can exacerbate the risks from storm surges?
* Removing natural vegetation * Coastal development
81
What is the significance of mangrove forests in coastal management?
Mangrove forests provide protection against extreme weather events, trap sediment, and help with coastal accretion ## Footnote They can keep up with global sea level rises and are essential for protecting communities from climate change impacts.
82
How does global warming affect storm frequency and intensity?
Global warming is predicted to increase the frequency and intensity of storms, leading to greater storm surges and flooding ## Footnote There is no agreed scientific consensus on the exact impacts.
83
What are the economic consequences for communities at risk of coastal flooding?
Reduced house and land prices, economic loss for homeowners, and challenges in obtaining insurance ## Footnote Insurers may refuse coverage in high-risk areas.
84
What is the global population statistic regarding coastal living?
Over 1 billion people live on coasts at risk from flooding; 50% of the world’s population lives within 60km of the coast ## Footnote This figure is increasing daily.
85
Define hard engineering in coastal management.
Hard engineering involves man-made structures to prevent erosion, often at high costs with significant environmental impacts ## Footnote It changes the location of erosion instead of preventing it.
86
What is an example of hard engineering and its impact?
Offshore breakwaters reduce wave energy but are visually unappealing and can create navigation hazards ## Footnote They may interfere with longshore drift.
87
What characterizes soft engineering in coastal management?
Soft engineering uses natural methods to work with the environment, complementing physical defenses against coastal erosion and sea-level change ## Footnote Examples include beach nourishment and dune stabilization.
88
What is a Cost-Benefit Analysis (CBA) in coastal management?
A CBA compares expected costs of coastal management with expected benefits to determine project viability ## Footnote Benefits can be tangible or intangible.
89
What does Integrated Coastal Zone Management (ICZM) involve?
ICZM manages large sections of coastline with a single strategy, recognizing interconnections and involving all stakeholders ## Footnote It aims for sustainable management across political boundaries.
90
What are Shoreline Management Plans (SMPs)?
SMPs identify activities within each sediment cell for coastline management and recommend strategies for each stretch of coastline ## Footnote Options include Hold the Line, Managed Realignment, Advance the Line, and No Active Intervention.
91
What factors influence the choice of coastal management options?
Economic value of assets, technical feasibility of engineering solutions, and the ecological and cultural value of land ## Footnote Historic areas and Sites of Special Scientific Interest may be prioritized.
92
What are the potential winners in coastal management policy decisions?
Winners can be economically, environmentally, and socially benefited individuals or communities ## Footnote This includes those whose properties and jobs are protected.
93
What are the potential losers in coastal management policy decisions?
Losers may lose property, jobs, or have to relocate, leading to financial and emotional distress ## Footnote Strong attachments to place make losses significant.
94
How does coastal management impact sediment cells?
Interventions change erosion patterns and sediment distribution, potentially increasing erosion in downdrift areas ## Footnote For example, a sea wall can reflect wave energy, leading to less sediment and increased erosion elsewhere.
95
Fill in the blank: The primary purpose of _______ is to prevent coastal erosion using natural methods.
[soft engineering]
96
True or False: Hard engineering solutions always eliminate coastal erosion.
False ## Footnote Hard engineering only shifts the erosion problem to another location.