D3 Study Flashcards

1
Q

Mantinia

A

85% Moschofilero, SW of Nemea on 600 m plateau - warm Mediterranean stainless steel, Seméli Estate

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2
Q

Nemea

A

100% Agiorgitiko, near Corinth Canal, Gaia Wines
Three zones: 230-400 m fertile, 450-650 m for best, 650m-1000m for rosé

Ancient Nemea+Koutsi subzones

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3
Q

Naoussa

A

100% Xinomavro, SE slopes of Mt. Vermio 150-400m - shelter from NW wind, varied aspects - Kir Yianni Ramnitsa
Good-outstanding, mid-priced

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4
Q

Amynteo

A

100% Xinomavro, NW side of Mt. Vermio, 570-750 m
Rosé permitted, lakes moderate temp (Vegoritida) and sandy soils are phylloxera-free
Alpha Estate Barba Yannis
650-700mm rain

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5
Q

Santorini

A

Dry 75% Assyrtiko, sweet 51% Assyrtiko: basket (kouloura) training, cut every 20 years - 2,500 vines/ha, yields 60 hl/ha - Vinsanto late harvest, 2 weeks sun-dried, 2 years in oak

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6
Q

Beaujolais Nouveau

A

Primeur = synonym, third Thursday in November (other wines December 15th), carbonic or semi, bottled 3-5 days after - MLF optional

1/4 of all Beaujolais

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7
Q

Beaujolais AOC

A

Regional (S+NE), clay+limestone 60 hl/ha, sale March after harvest

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8
Q

Beaujolais Villages AOC

A

Riper, yield 58 hl/ha
Individual village name allowed if fruit all from there
Good-very good, inexpensive to mid-priced

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9
Q

Beaujolais Cru

A

Range from 250-1,300 ha, yield 48 hl/ha - popular among somms/wine lovers in US

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10
Q

Brouilly AOC

A

Southern, warmer, largest: lighter and perfumed

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11
Q

Chiroubles AOC

A

Highest cru, lighter and fragrant, marked acidity

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12
Q

Fleurie AOC

A

Sandy soils (lighter) in south, clay in north (fuller bodied) next to Moulin-à-Vent

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13
Q

Moulin-à-Vent AOC

A

Powerful and long-lived, like Cote d’Or

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14
Q

Morgon AOC

A

Includes south facing Cote de Py, pronounced black cherry, age for a decade (Jean Foillard)

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15
Q

Beaujolais Business

A

40% export, holdings 10 ha, co-ops 25%, domestic sales DTC and specialist wine (then supermarket) - Japan, US and UK make up 60% of sales (Japan for Nouveau, US+UK for crus) - alternative to Burgundy

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16
Q

Rhone Business

A

1/3 export, 1/3 supermarket, 29% specialist wine/hospitality - US, UK and Belgium - trend of growers becoming domaines, Cave de Tain has 40% of Crozes-Hermitage and 15% of Hermitage - 70% AOC wine overall, of which 1/2 Côtes du Rhone

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17
Q

Burgundy Business

A

Route to market: DTC rising, direct sales from producer to end retailer rising - 50% export (25% EU, 25% UK/US/Japan), domaine and appellation name - 200% price increase this century

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18
Q

USA Labelling Laws

A
Variety = 75%
Appellation = 75% from county, state
Vintage = 85% from vintage
AVA = 85% from AVA
Vintage AVA = 95%
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19
Q

California Business

A

5,900 grape growers, 4,800 wineries
26 million hl (3.3 million hl exported)
Bought grapes could be blended or make separate wine - large range helps for cellar door/wine club
Gallo owns Barefoot, other end is Screaming Eagle/Harlan
Wine Institute of California: 1/4 of producers

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20
Q

California grape growers

A

Independent growers i.e. Beckstoffer
Prices vary w/supply and demand -> head-grafting for rapid response
Napa fruit can be 10x Lodi: quality growers

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21
Q

North Coast AVA

A

Largest in California, 100 miles on coast and 50 miles inland - divided by Mayacamas Mountains

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22
Q

Mendocino County

A

7,000 ha - cooler AVAs (Anderson Valley) near Pacific for Pinot/Chardonnay/Riesling, inland (Redwood Valley) for Zinfandel, Syrah, Petite Sirah, Potter Valley for Sauvignon Blanc and Riesling - lower priced, multi-regional blends
Parducci in Mendocino AVA

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23
Q

Anderson Valley AVA

A

NW to SE, close to Pacific: fog from Navarro River, warmer inland - 900-2,000 mm rain
1,000 ha: Pinot Noir and Chardonnay for sparkling/still
Duckhorn’s Goldeneye, Williams Seylem
good to outstanding, premium-priced
Also Alsace whites
85 wineries: cellar door for tourism, many wineries buy fruit and label it from here b/c of reputation

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24
Q

Clear Lake AVA

A

Rain shadow of Mayacamas Mountains: warm, slopes at 400-500m and afternoon breezes
Red Hills AVA Beckstoffer fruit
Mostly black grapes, Cabernet Sauvignon+Sauvignon Blanc

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25
Alexander Valley AVA
NE Sonoma County, warm w/cool Pacific air from Petaluma Gap and russian River Valley Valley floor and west/southwest Mayacamas slopes, 100-750m Long sunshine hours: high color and tannin w/acidity 800 mm rain, free-draining sand and gravel higher up Full-bodied Cabernet Sauvignon, good to outstanding + mid-priced to premium Kendall-Jackson Stonestreet Estate Chardonnay (450m)
26
Knights Valley AVA
Furthest island, surrounded by hills and sheltered from pacific - cooling at 450 m Free-draining volcanic soils: Cabernet Sauvignon w/Merlot, Syrah, Zinfandel, Peter Michael
27
Dry Creek Valley AVA
Narrow valley, planted on floor and slopes Dry Creek = tributary of Russian River, valley funnels cool air and fog from San Pablo Bay (tidal estuary) Gravel sandy loam on floor, gravel red clay loam on slopes (Dry Creek Conglomerate) Old-vine Zinfandel, Teldeschi clone (Italian immigrants) riper on west-facing/north sites Bordeaux and Rhone varieties, Sauvignon Dry Creek Vineyard
28
Rockpile AVA
Overlaps Dry Creek AVA, steep slopes above 800 ft, up to 650 m Snaking Lake Sonoma creates inversion layer, shallow soils + wind for ripe fruit Zinfandel, Petite Sirah, Syrah, Malbec, Douro No wineries in AVA (source of fruit)
29
Russian River Valley AVA
Part of Northern Sonoma and Sonoma County AVAs South and west coolest = Petaluma Gap (fog stays the night, slower sugar accumulation+acidity retention) Yellow sandstone, rocky sandy loam: free-draining, low nutrients (Goldridge soil) Over 7,000 ha (extended twice), medium(+) acidity La Crema, Martinelli's Jackass Hill Zinfandel
30
Green Valley of Russian River Valley AVA
Next to Petaluma Gap, longest fog exposure Higher acidity, fresher fruit Marimar Estate legume cover (water), 100% solar powered
31
Chalk Hill AVA
White volcanic ash, NE corner - plantings up to 500 m Warmer climate, Chardonnay+Cabernet Sauvignon Chalk Hill Vineyards, oak fermented vinho ao alto Mt. Eden clone Pinot Noir
32
Sonoma Coast AVA
Mendocino to San Pablo Bay, includes Petaluma Gap West vineyards near coast are very cold, fruit set disrupted Light-bodied, high acid wines Occidental Vineyards
33
Fort Ross Seaview AVA
NW of Sonoma Coast AVA, vineyards more than 280 m (above fog layer), warmer but moderated y winds Riper fruit w/higher acidity Chardonnay, Pinot Noir + Syrah Flowers
34
Petaluma Gap AVA
Gap in Northern Coast Range - persistent 8 mph wind, 75% Pinot Noir + Chardonnay, Syrah Lower alcohol and fresher fruit
35
Sonoma Valley AVA
Between Sonoma and Mayacamas mountains - south is coolest (winds from San Pablo Bay) Hanzell first to use all oak w/Chardonnay Pagani Ranch Zinfandel (Ridge)
36
Sonoma Mountain AVA
Western side, east-facing slopes up to 730 m Ripe and tannic, but cool mountain air helps Free-draining volcanic soils Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Zinfandel w/Chardonnay/Sauvignon Blanc on cooler west side (coastal) Benziger is biodynamic
37
Bennett Valley AVA
Warm sheltered, surrounding hills but night air through Crane Canyon Gap Matanzas Creek, Syrah, Merlot, Rhone varieties
38
Carneros AVA
San Pablo Bay up to Napa county: warm and sunny days, cold winds evening and morning - low elevation up to 200 m Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, can use county and 'Los' Recognized in 1980s (Tchelitscheff) Clay-loam soils, less fertile than Napa Martini and Swan clones of Pinot Noir
39
Napa Valley AVA
4% of California production, 27% of value - 16 nested AVAs must also use Napa Valley - 18,200 ha 30x5 miles - Napa River, Mayacamas Mountains and Vaca Mountains - open to San Pablo Bay from south, warm air rising pulls in cool air Silt and clay in middle and east (fertile and water) Alluvial fans are deep, rocky, moderately fertile (in-between style) 90% protected development, 30 degree slope cannot be converted Cordon/replacement spur VSP, drip irrigation Napa Green = 60%
40
Coombsville and Oak Knoll AVA
Fog burns off in late morning: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot+Chardonnay - lighter body and fresher fruit Coombsville 2012, Oak Knoll Trefethen 100% solar powered, dry and late harvest Riesling, Petit Verdot
41
Rutherford AVA
Furthest north, least bay influence: Cabernet, some Zinfandel - med(+)/full body, high ripe tannins, rounder and fruitier Rutherford Bench 3-mile stretch alluvial fan Grgich Hills organic, silt loams (neutral oak Fumé Blanc), Frog's Leap
42
Oakville AVA
Cabernet Sauvignon, Rutherford Bench | Promontory, Harlan higher, Bale loam at lower altitude
43
Yountville AVA
Most influence of fog | Dominus Napanook Bordeaux blend
44
Stags Leap District AVA
Deep volcanic loam, Fay Vineyard drainage from large boulders - silky and more delicate
45
St Helena AVA
North, warmest - Bale loam, St. Helena Bench horseshoe shape funnels afternoon breezes Trinchero Family Estates
46
Calistoga AVA
Some breezes from Chalk Hill gap Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah Wind machines, Chateau Montelena
47
Mountain AVAs of Napa Valley
Above fog layer (up to 800 m), lower diurnal range: higher tannins and acidity Mount Veeder AVA is coolest (Cab can struggle) w/ Hess Collection, Atlas Peak in SE has Antica Sangiovese, Howell Mountain in NE is warmest, Diamond Mountain and Spring Mountain (Pride Mountain Vineyards) cooler White wines have less pronounced fruit
48
Blending Napa Valley
Small percent of other variety in varietal wines, also different vineyards (even across AVAs) for soil types, cooler - single-vineyard To Kalon and Martha's Vineyard
49
Central Coast AVA
From San Francisco to Santa Barbara - gaps in coastal hills - Southern Coast Ranges i.e. Santa Cruz, Gabilan and Santa Lucia
50
Livermore Valley AVA
``` East side of San Francisco Bay, Alameda County: cool air from san Francisco Bay, stony free-draining soils Wente Chardonnay (Meursault), Concannon Cabernet Sauvignon (7, 8, 11) Margaux -80% relate back to this, Sauvignon Blanc from Chateau d'Yquem ```
51
Santa Cruz Mountains AVA
Altitudes up to 800 m, moderating daytime temps, warm air pushed up avoiding frosts East side warmer for Zinfandel, Cabernet Sauvignon, but Pinot Noir and Chardonnay common Ridge Vineyards 100% new oak, organic
52
Monterey AVA
Salinas River Valley: cool air funneled from Monterey Bay - Pinot Noir and Riesling in north, Cabernet, Merlot, Syrah in south Chardonnay has more than 50%, all sites Free-draining sandy loam/gravel = irrigation essential Flat valley floor = inexpensive, mechanization Longest growing season, wind damage
53
Santa Lucia Highlands
Alluvial terraces facing southeast over Salinas Valley, up to 350m: winds and fog, morning sunshine - stomata can close - Chardonnay + Pinot Noir, Syrah where sheltered Hahn Pinot Noir/Chardonnay
54
Arroyo Seco AVA
Narrow gorge at foot of Santa Lucia mountains, opens onto valley floor: canyon is warmer, Cab Sauvignon/Syrah, valley floor has Chardonnay and Riesling J Lohr
55
Chalone AVA
Gabilan Mountain Range, 550 m above fog line, monopole - Chardonnay and Pinot, Chenin Blanc
56
Carmel Valley AVA
Cachagua Valley further inland, 670 m and above fog - sheltered from coast, warmest in county Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot w/Pinot Noir/Chardonnay near coast
57
Paso Robles AVA
11 sub-AVAs (Willow Creek), Adelaida District AVA Rolling hills and mountaings up to 670 m - eastern side has warmer climate, full bodied Templeton Gap on west has Pacific air Tablas Creek (Perrin) Rhone varieties, Adelaida (calcareous) - dry farming 40% Cabernet
58
Edna Valley AVA
Coolest in California, 5 miles from Pacific (Morro Bay), C+PN as well as Syrah, Sauvignon Blanc, Albariño Alban Reva
59
Arroyo Grande Valley AVA
South of Edna valley, funnels Pacific fog (high acidity) | Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, Zinfandel and Syrah
60
Santa Barbara County
Transerve Ranges funnel air, reduce frost - medium(+)/high acidity, medium to medium(+) body Wineries cannot set up cellar doors on winery, must be in city Marine bedrock, diatomaceous in west, Purisima Hills
61
Santa Maria Valley AVA
West to east, funnels Pacific air: 100-250 m on sandy clay shale loam - P+CN, Syrah, Viognier
62
Santa Ynez Valley AVA
Four sub-AVAs Sta Rita Hills, Ballard Canyon, Los Olivos District, Happy Canyon of Santa Barbara
63
Sta. Rita Hills AVA
calcareous soils, Purisima Hills+Santa Rosa Hills, western edge: P+CN, Sauvignon Blanc, V+S - known for Pinot Noir, premium + super premium, medium(+) tannins, tea leaf
64
Ballard Canyon AVA
Small plantings, north to south canyon w/some overnight fog: Syrah and Grenache
65
Los Olivos AVA
Alluvial terraces over Santa Ynez River, warm sun and low diurnal range: Bordeaux, Rhone, Italian
66
Happy Canyon of Santa Barbara AVA
Small, new - warm temps, north/south - high altitude and afternoon winds Cabernet Sauvignon+Sauvignon Blanc, Bordeaux, Syrah
67
San Joaquin Valley
61,000 ha, 35-40 temps, French Colombard, Chardonnay, Muscat, Zinfandel, Merlot: large-scale production, Gallo and Bronco - 'California' appellation, not AVA
68
Lodi AVA
Hot Mediterranean, cooling winds from San Francisco Bay and Sacramento-San Joaquin Delta - flat land means breezes travel far Irrigation common from Mokelumne River, cordon VSP as cane is more labor, old bush vine Zinfandel - Rhone, Bordeaux, Spain, Portugal, Italy David Michael Inkblot
69
Mokelumne River AVA
Most of Lodi's vineyards, 2006: Lodi also stated (1/5 of Lodi is sustainable)
70
Clarksburg AVA
SW of Sacramento, hot days, Chenin Blanc and Petit Sirah, California blends
71
Sierra Foothills AVA
Hot days, cool mountain nights - 1000 m in El Dorado AVA, sandy clay loam for dry farming, old vine Zinfandel + Rhone
72
South Coast AVA
South of LA to Mexico - breezes, Pierce's disease Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, Zinfandel, Chenin Blanc Replanting to focus on quality
73
Oregon Business
52% of wines from estate-grown, typically small family wineries of less than 5,000 cases 1/4 of wine is DTC (cellar door, wine clubs) 60% consumed in other states, 2.5% exported (Canada, UK, Japan)
74
Washington Business
Growth to more than 1,000 wineries more than 23,000 ha (doubled since 2000) House Bill 100 1969 forced competition Chateau Ste. Michelle 1976 - more than half of state production Mostly in-state sales, cellar door often w/facilities in Seattle
75
New York Business
Farm Winery Act 1976: wineries can sell to public (limit 50,000 gallons) Now 400 wineries, 1.1 million hl Sales cellar door, in-state: on-trade in NYC has not embraced wines Second generation, training abroad help industry
76
Williamette Valley
10,000 ha - 600 vineyards 60-80% Pinot Noir Coast Range mountains on west Long sunshine hours, high diurnal range Ponds built for irrigation Valley floor loam Pinot Gris (Scott Henry Pinot Noir) Marine sediment (sandstone), basalt and loess higher w/VSP
77
Dundee Hills AVA
First plantings, volcanic Jory N/S hills w/E-W ridges 60-325 m, warmer due to Coast Range and Chehalem Mountain shelter Iron-rich clay holds water Eyrie Vineyards
78
Chehalem Mountains AVA
20x5 miles, SE to NW ridge, up to 500 m Most plantings of any sub AVA Laurelwood wind-blown silt, draining but fertile
79
Ribbon Ridge AVA
Smallest, 200 m protected ridge | Sedimentary, deep but low nutrient (holds water) - Willakenzie
80
Van Duzer Corridor
SW of Willamette: break in Coast Range, can disrupt flower/fruit set, close stomata Marine sediment, loam, silt (well-draining, shallow) - frost problems
81
Eola-Amity Hills AVA
Rocky volcanic basalt, sedimentary soil
82
Yamhill-Carlton District
South bowl, horseshoe shaped sedimentary hills 1000 ha, Coast range foothills Lower acidity, south aspect and shelter
83
McMinnville AVA
Noth areas in rain shadow, south have wind
84
Umpqua Valley AVA
``` Three ranges: Coast, Cascade, Klamath Umpqua River, 50-400m, various soils Northern area cooled by wind from gorge North Pinot/Gewurz/Riesling South Syrah, Merlot ```
85
Southern Oregon
3,200 ha Rivers and mountains cooling Irrigation needed (ranchers can use river waters) Dry farmed Rhone varieties 40% Pinot Noir - then Gris, Syrah, Tempranillo
86
Rogue Valley AVA
Warmest and driest around Applegate Valley AVA almost to 950 m, cooling Rogue River Valley winds Merlot, Tempranillo, Syrah
87
Walla Walla valley
1/3 in Oregon, arid continental 40% Cabernet Milton-Freewater Rocks District: basalt stones, silt loam
88
Washington environment
``` Rain shadow of Cascades, 150-250mm Hot continental, longer days Irrigational essential Basalt bedrock, sandy loess and alluvial topsoil Anticlines: exposed bedrock ridges Sandy soil is low phylloxera, slopes for less frost Volcanic influence Mt. St. Helens The Burn (warmest) is new AVA Snipes Mountain AVA ```
89
Yakima Valley AVA
40% of production, 7,600 ha Chardonnay, then Cab Sauvignon Frost risk on valley floor Rattlesnake Hills AVA south slopes (260 m) high altitude Riesling, Merlot
90
Red Mountain AVA
SW slope, poor nutrients, warmest (Yakima valley sub-zone) | Full bodied Cab Sauvignon
91
Horse Heaven Hills AVA
``` 6500 ha: 25% of production 2/3 black grapes Chardonnay+Riesling Slopes+Columbia River winds Quilceda Creek Vintners ```
92
Wahluke Slope AVA
Center of Columbia Valley AVA South slope, 3,600 ha warm and dry Sandy, free-draining soil: irrigation Red wines
93
Walla Walla Valley AVA
``` Fastest growing, 1/2 in Oregon 705 ha in Washington Blue Mountain foothills in NE, up to 600 m Cool air trapped: frost risk Cab Franc, Malbec, Semillon Vinea sustainable alliance ```
94
Finger Lakes AVA
Cool continental, 3,800 ha 11 lakes, Seneca Lake 200 m deep Slopes drain cold air, warms and rises over lake drawing cold air away from land Snow insulates vines Autumn warming=long season, budburst delayed in spring Fertile soil, lots of rainfall (low density large vine i.e. Scott Henry split canopy) Hilling up in winter
95
New York Hybrids
Traminette (higher acidity, lower alcohol), Vignoles (noble rot, high acid, sweet), Vidal (ice wine)
96
Long Island AVA
1,000 ha on North Fork and Hamptons Maritime, long season Merlot+Bordeaux, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc Humidity (coastal wind helps) North Fork (60%) warmer protected, sandy soils Hamptons silt loam free-draining, low-fertility VSP
97
Hudson River Region AVA
First commercial winery, Brotherhood Winery 64 ha, glacial shale/slate, schist, limestone: frost and freeze Seyval Blanc, Vidal, Cabernet Franc
98
Finger Lakes Wineries
Canandaigua, Keuka, Seneca AVA, Cayuga AVA Hermann J Wiemer Seneca Lake, hand harvest/sort, cover crops, working towards Demeter Konstantin Frank Grüner Veltliner, unoaked Chardonnay Forge Cellars from Gigondas
99
Muscadet (Pays Nantais) Winemaking
Chaptalization up to 12%, fermentation in underground glass-lined concrete MLF avoided to preserve acidity Skin contact, amphora, eggs for experimentation (cost) Sur lie: one racking to remove gross lees, then winter on lees (March 1st to November 30th)
100
Melon Vineyard
Cold resistant but vulnerable to spring frost (wind machines, heaters, straw bales) Resistant to powdery mildew, subject to downy mildew and botrytis, has tight bunches
101
Muscadet Appellations
Muscadet AOC: 65 hl/ha (70 for 2020), 10% Chardonnay, no sur lie Muscadet Sevre et Maine AOC: 55 hl/ha Muscadet Coteaux de la Loire, Muscadet Cotes de Grandlieu Cru Communaux: Clisson, Gorges, Pallet 45 hl/ha Pallet 18 months, Clisson+Gorges 24 months sur lie
102
Muscadet Business
Drop since 1991 frost 15% export, negociants more than half of sales (Ackerman, Castel) Melon has 60% of plantings Domaine de l'Ecu soil focus: "granite", "gneiss"
103
Loire Overview
Pays Nantais 22%, Anjou-Saumur 37%, Touraine 31%, Central Vineyards 10% 50% negociants (10 control 4/5 of segment), 40% estates, 10% co-ops Organic production less than national average Trend for negociants to make wines, family businesses buy grapes to hedge hail/frost
104
Anjou-Saumur plantings
40% Cabernet Franc, 25% Chenin Blanc - 5% Grolleau Noir, Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay
105
Touraine plantings
Cabernet Franc: 30%, Chenin Blanc 20% Sauvignon Blanc 20%, Gamay 10% Also Malbec and Chardonnay
106
Anjou-Touraine environment
Continental (Anjou-Saumur has more maritime), 700 mm Anjou has schist and limestone (draining+retention) Fercal+Riparia Gloire for chlorosis (lime content)
107
Chenin Blanc
Early budding, late ripening, vigorous, high yields, powdery mildew, botrytis, trunk diseases, uneven ripening (multiple passes, limits mechanization)
108
Cabernet Franc
Early budding, mid-ripening, prone to coloure, greenness, winter hardy - blended with Cot in Touraine
109
Other Loire Grapes
Grolleau Noir: Early budding, mid-ripening, botrytis: blended in rosés (Anjou/Loire) Gamay Noir: Carbonic, Touraine/Central Cabernet Sauvignon: Late-ripening, warmest sites of Anjou
110
Winemaking Loire
Chenin Blanc: cool/mid-temp, can last several months MLF avoided, ferment and age in large oak or steel Cabernet Franc: Crushed, fermented in concrete/wood (punch down/pump over) Ambient yeast, used oak aging: promote fruit) Rosés often made by direct press, or short maceration
111
Anjou AOC
60 hl/ha for red/white, 67 hl/ha for rosé Anjou Blanc: min. 80% Chenin Blanc Anjou Rouge: min. 75% Cabernet Franc/Sauvignon
112
Anjou Villages AOC
Still red wine only Cabernet Franc/Sauvignon | max. 55 hl/ha, September year after harvest (producers often release as Vin de France)
113
Coteaux de Layon AOC
Right bank slopes of Layon River, botrytized (or vine-dried) Chenin Blanc - cooked citrus, honey 35 hl/ha, 14% CdL AOC+Village: 30 hl/ha, 15% Bonnezeaux AOC: 25 hl/ha, 15% CdL AOC Premier Cru Chaume: 25 hl/ha, 16.5% Quarts de Chaume Grand Cru: 20 hl/ha, 18%
114
Savennières AOC
Fully dry, south slopes, rocky schist and low yield: 50 hl/ha - austere, bottle aging, some have oak La roche aux Moines AOC Coulée de Serrant AOC: monopole, biodynamic Nicolas Joly: 30 hl/ha, warm slopes
115
Rosé Loire AOCs
Rosé de Loire: max. 60 hl/ha, dry: Cabs, Gamay, Grolleau Noir Rosé d'Anjou: max. 65 hl/ha, min. 7 g/l sugar: Grolleau, Cabs, Cot, Gamay Pink-orange, med(+)acidity, best-selling Cabernet d'Anjou: max. 60 hl/ha, Cabs - medium pink, medium-dry (min. 10 g/l sugar)
116
Saumur AOC
White 60 hl/ha, Chenin Blanc Reds 57 hl/ha, mainly Cabernet Franc Rosé 57 hl/ha, Cab Franc/Sauvignon Coteaux de Saumur: sweet Chenin, 35 hl/ha
117
Saumur-Champigny
Red, min. 85% Cab. Franc, 57 hl/ha Tuffeau (Turonian limestone), chalk, flint and clay - release December Cave Robert et Marcel Clos Rougeard
118
Touraine AOC
Sauvignon Blanc whites, 65 hl/ha red Cabernet Franc, Cot, Gamay Touraine AOC Amboise (Chenin Blanc), 55 hl/ha - rouge now 100% Cot Oisly and Chenonceaux 60 hl/ha, Sauvignon Blanc Sand on flint in east
119
Vouvray AOC
Min. 95% Chenin Blan, 5% Orbois, 52 hl/ha Flinty (perruche) clay and limestone (aubuis) over tuff (drainage) More clay away from Loire Dry every year, some demi-sec, sweet if conditions are right Labeling confusing for sweetness
120
Montlouis-sur-Loire AOC
South of River (Loire to Cher River), 100% Chenin, 52 hl/ha | Many biodynamic estates, Jacky Blot
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Bourgueil AOC
Cabernet Franc w/10% Cabernet Sauvignon, red and rosé: 55 hl/ha
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Chinon AOC
Red, white and rosé Cabernet Franc w/10% Cabernet Sauvignon: 55 hl/ha Shorter or longer maceration Structure on clay/limestone, lighter on sand/gravel
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St-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil AOC
Cabernet Franc, similar to Saumur-Champigny AOC
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Central Vineyards
Cool continental, 750 mm Fungal diseases, low light intensity=restrained flavor 70% Sauvignon Blanc
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Sauvignon Blanc
Late budding, early ripening - autumn rain issue Vigorous (poor soils), canopy management Powdery mildew, botrytis, esca, eutypa Row orientation+canopy management (green flavors in shade), harvest date key Produces concentrated flavor at high yield
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Sancerre winemaking
Fermentation temps higher than New World (low mid-range rather than cool) MLF blocked, some producers allow François Cotat old oak, Henri Bourgeois heavily oaked
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Sancerre AOC
White Sauvignon Blanc 65 hl/ha, Rosé 63 hl/ha, red 59 hl/ha Pinot Noir Used to be Pinot Noir, replanted 200-400 m slopes, river and forest protection
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Sancerre soils
Caillots: shallow 25-40 mm pebble layer over limestone: aromatic, early drinking Terre Blanches: limestone/marl like Chablis, long maturation (Côte des Monts Damnés, Cul de Beaujeu) Silex: Flint accumulates heat, early ripening, Les Romains: stony/smoky
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Pouilly-Fumé AOC
Sauvignon Blanc, 65 hl/ha, flatter land Frost risk, wind machines Less aromatic than Sancerre, need more bottle aging
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Reuilly AOC
Same as Sancerre, but rosé can also be Pinot Gris
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Quincy AOC
White only, Sauvignon Blanc (90%) or Sauvignon Gris
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Menetou-Salon AOC
Same as Sancerre, gentle south slopes (more frost), | inexpensive to mid-priced
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Languedoc environment
Warm Mediterranean, <600mm rain = 240,000 ha NW Tramontane wind 2/3 of year, low yields 1/3 of France's organic wine
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Languedoc business
15% AOC, 70% IGP, rosé growing (+35%), exports +15% (growth in US, China) Chateaus on rise Trend of mid-priced wines, varietal blends from sub-zones + small producers Sud de France promotional body ViniSud wine fair
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Pays d'Oc IGP
10-15% of all French wine, 1/2 red, 25% white - good to very good Merlot, Cab, Chardonnay+Syrah , Marselan and Grenache Blanc 50% domestic (supermarkets, hospitality), exports to Germany, Netherlands, Blegium
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Languedoc AOC
reds 50 hl/ha, whites 60 hl/ha Percetange in vineyard and wine varies Grapes: GSM, min. 2, none more than 80% Principal blend min. 40%, others (Cinsaut/Carignan) max. 30%
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Corbières AOC
10,000 ha - hilly Mont Tauch, D'Alaric up to 450 m 90% red, min. 40% GSM+Carignan, max. 20% permitted (Cinsaut) - yield 50 hl/ha 30% export: China, Germany, Belgium Lledoner Pelut is principal variety Terret Noir is permitted
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Corbières-Boutenac AOC
Quality sub-zone, Grenache+Carignan+Mourvedre 70% | Syrah max. 30%, Carignan max. 50%
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Minervois AOC
Range of altitudes, proximities to Mediterranean GSM+C+C min. 50% Balcons de l'Aude warmest, earliest harvest Le Causse: limestone, altitude 200-500 m
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Minervois La Liviniere
Only reds, limestone terrace 400 m GSM min. 40%, GSM+C+C min. 80% Rivairenc permitted
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St Chinian AOC
Red and rose, GSM min. 50% North: arid draining schist, Roquebrun+Berlou South: clay/limestone, more water retention+less concentration
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Fitou AOC
Split around Corbieres, first AOC in 1948 Flat clay/limestone plain at coast, draining schist inland Carignan 10-40%, Grenache min. 20% Mont Tauch co-op 1/2 of production
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Faugeres AOC
250-400m, draining schist: 50 hl/ha red Low avg. yield 33 hl/ha 40% organic, one year aging 90% of consumption in France
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Pic-Saint-Loup AOC
``` 1,000 m - continental w/cold winters 50% Syrah w/G or M, only red and rosé Lascaux Les Nobles Pierres Syrah w/G Rose 30% min Syrah Hail damage 50% in 2016 Montpellier close (development danger) ```
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Terrasses du Larzac AOC
120-400 m, new in 2014 (20 degree diurnal range), foot of Mont Baudille Only red, at least three varieties Carignan max. 30% La Peira
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La Clape AOC
New in 2015, coastal Mourvedre 80% red Whites 60% Grenache Blanc/Bourboulenc Bourboulenc 40%, main includes Piquepoul Blanc/Clairette, permitted = Maccabeu
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Picpoul de Pinet AOC
Made from Piquepoul Blanc, retains acidity 55 hl/ha, medium body, 65% export (UK 60% of export, US and Netherlands), tourism Co-ops 90%, Ormarine
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Malepère AOC
Mountains protect from Mediterranean, min. 40% Merlot, 2 varieties Cabernet Franc, Cot
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Cabardès AOC
Mediterranean and Atlantic, 40% Bordeaux, 40% Syrah or Grenache
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Provence Overview
90% Rosé, red from GSM+C2, whites from Rolle+Clairette Warm Mediterranean, Mistral cooling/disrupts fruit set Organic vineyards 2x national average 35% Grenache, 15% Cinsaut+Syrah Bush vines replaced by trellises, inter-row machine access Tibouren best on coast
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Provence Winemaking
Pale color reds incl. Cinsaut, Tibouren -20% white grapes allowed in blend but 10% typical, lower alcohol Direct pressing most common, acidification typical Protect against oxidation: chill fruit to 4 degrees, Inertys press Stainless steel, cultured yeast 14-18 - fruity, not banana Whole bunch = gentler extraction but more labor, machines faster + at night but need skilled driver MLF blocked, fining makes wine paler
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Côtes de Provence AOC
20,000 ha, 90% rosé - GSM, Cinsaut+Tibouren (blend) Yield 55 hl/ha (45 hl/ha avg.) Saint-Victoire sub-zone has 50 hl/ha (min. 50% Grenache/Syrah) Fréjus is volcanic Pale pink-orange, medium acidity Cru classé to 25 estates, Clos Mireille Chateau d'Esclans Garrus: new oak
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Coteaux Varois en Provence/Coteaux d'Aix en Provence
Max. 50 hl/ha, same grapes w/Counoise, Carignan, Cabernet (30% max.) - with CdP, 95% of Provence wine Aix = Vermentino whites
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Les Baux de Provence AOC
Northwest, closer to Rhone - red wines, GSM 60% Totally biodynamic: C3 up to 30% Domaine de Trevallon releases Cab/Syrah blend as IGP Alpilles
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Bandol AOC
Used to be more red, now rosé 60% volume Terraced south slopes for wind protection Limestone and clay, 600 ha Pebbly limestone w/sandy marl, restanque terraces on hillside Red 50-95% Mourvedre, 18 months (rosé min. 20%) 40 hl/ha Domaine Tempier 50% co-ops (Vignerons de la Cadiérenne)
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Bellet/Cassis/Palette AOC
Bellet: near Nice, Rolle w/ Chardonnay Bracquet grape for rose-scented rosé Cassis: only predominantly white Provence AOC, Marsanne dominated blends w/Clairette Palette: Chateau Simone, hand harvest, 40 ha, 18 months - rosés include 15% white grapes
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Provence Business
2/3 domestic, supermarkets+cellar door (tourism) France consumes 1/3 of world's rosé US is 1/2 of all exports, UK next (13%) 1000% growth in value/half that in volume this century Riviera used for marketing Var department is 60% co-ops, Provence is 50% negociants
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Roussillon Overview
21,000 ha in Pyrenees, 70% AOC (no flat land) -1/3 less since 1980s AOC+PGI volume equal, 75% co-ops 500-600 mm, warm Mediterranean 15% organic Bush vines, shading, trellising (manual labor)
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Côtes du Roussillon AOC
5,000 ha, low slopes 100-250 m Red, rosé+white max. 48 hl/ha Vineyard Carignan max. 50%, Syrah +/or Mourvedre min. 25% - blend of 2, main max. 80%
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Côtes du Roussillon Villages AOC
Only red wines, less than 1/2 size of CdR max. 45 hl/ha, often less, 100-400 m Tautavel (Maury Sec) 42 hl/ha, Caramany carbonic Carignan
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Collioure AOC
Boundaries of Banyuls AOC: makes dry red and white Majority GSM reds, whites are Grenache Gris Max. 40 hl/ha for red and white (typically 20-25 hl/ha)
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Roussillon Business
IGP Côtes Catalanes Red and white, some premium white (Domaine Gauby) Clos des Fées, Le Soula Domaine de Bila-Haut owned by Chapoutier 80% of dry wine domestic, export to China, Belgium and Germany
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Portugal trends
190,000 ha (major drop in 30 years from replanting) Alentejo investment: dry climate, flat, large estates Training: VSP cordon/cane, bush vines in Douro/Alentejo field blends Only 2,700 ha organic (don't bother) Blends typical, native varieties on rise Bairrada traditional toneis (3-6,000l) Skin contact/fermentation for whites
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Portugal Business
Entry to EU 1986: loans/grants, co=ops are closed Export focus: 2011-2014 bailout by EU/IMF 31 DOC+14 VR Grapes sold to large producers, Sogrape acquires vineyards for diversity/control Growers becoming producers, some winemakers have no vineyards 5.5 m hl wine, 2.3 m hl exports DOC 27% of exports (40% by value) France, Angola, Germany + UK by volume France, US, UK + Brazil by value
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Vinho Verde environment
Atlantic, River Minho, Peneda-Geres National Park mts. 16,000 ha, 9 subregions moderate maritime, 1500 mm rain Vintage variation: high in 2017, fell after Inland fuller body Avesso+Alvarinho Soils: granite bedrock, decomposed sandy granite topsoil, low fertility (manure)
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Vinho Verde vineyard
Training up trees for air circulation traditional, enforçado Pergola is ramada Modern: rows, single/double cane Guyot+VSP, or Lyre Summer pruning, removal of shoots/green harvest
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Vinho Verde Grapes
80% white, 5% rosé (flip since 60s) Loureiro: everywhere, more near coast Mid-ripening, med(+)acidity, floral/herbal Alvarinho: expanding, varietal since 2016 - med(+)body/acidity, peach Pedernã (Arinto)-mid-ripening, neutral, high acidity Avesso: late ripening, full body, stone fruit, less acidity Trajadura: low acidity, peach, blends
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Vinho Verde Production
Inexpensive blends, protective: carbon dioxide added, early release, low alcohol w/some sugar Single varietal/region have lees, old oak, ambient yeast Min. 8% ABV or 9% for sub-region Alvarinho from Monção e Melgaço: min. 11.5% Monovarietal alvarinho only allowed from MeM, otherwise name allowed on blend if it is 30% at least - or wine declassified to Minho VR
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Vinho Verde Business
Fragmented, less than 0.1 ha (1,500 ha), only 400 bottle wines Lima sub-zone for Loureiro varietal Escolha, Superior: quality levels Anselmo Mendes Muros Antigos Avesso, Alvarinho Contacto (skin contact) Quinta de Soalheiro DOC makes up 37% of Portuguese still wine exports 35% exported: Germany, US, Brazil+France(US by value)
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Douro Overview
Douro DOC established in 1982, 38,000 ha Fernando Nicolau de Almeida (Ferreira): Barca Velha, 1952 - Majority Tinta Roriz, other grapes - ice from Matosinhos After EU in 1986 - jump in quality and equipment Schist bedrock with decomposed schist topsoil 2019 change in irrigation - notify IVDP if needed for quality North aspect, high altitude and westerly sites good in warm years
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Douro Grapes
Grapes Wines are typically blends, similar to port production Touriga Franca - medium body, red and black fruit, floral Touriga Nacional - high tannin + color, violet + rose - both key for acidity and ripe black fruit Sousão increasing, high acidity even for warm years White grapes: grown at highest altitudes Viosinho - Full body, floral and stone fruit (lacks acidity) Rabigato - high acidity, citrus/floral Gouveio - a.k.a. Godello, medium(+) acidity, stone fruit Moscatel Galego Branco for aroma
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Douro Winemaking
>70% is red wine, range from inexpensive to premium Prats & Symington, Quinta do Vale Meão Destemming typical (high tannin grapes, green flavors) 24-28 C fermentation, low for red wines (tannin control) Lagars sometimes used: easier to monitor extraction Larger oak (400-500l) now becoming more common 25% is white wine, typically medium/medium(+) acidity Premium whites fermented in oak, old vine grapes
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Douro Business
Business Port is 60% of region's production, but Douro DOC growing (more than 500,000 hl in 2017) Still wines represent 30% of DOC production, VR Duriense for producers who use international grapes (Syrah, Chardonnay) Price for Douro DOC grapes is much lower than Port grapes Niepoort's Batuta: Roriz Franca Rufete Quinta do Crasto monovarietal Domestic 64% by volume, exports Canada, Brazil and UK
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Dão Overview
Warm Mediterranean climate, surrounded by mountains Rainfall from 1,100 mm in east to 1,600 in west, mostly fall/winter Around 20,000 ha of vines in a large pine/eucalyptus forest Typical altitude is 400-500 m, range from 200-900 Serra da Caramulo Atlantic protection Serra da Estrela in east, 900 m Soil: Sandy/loamy granite, low organic matter, free draining Hazards: Summer hail and spring frosts Bush vines are now double/single Guyot (cane) or cordon VSP High around 250,000 hl DOC wine Quinta das Maias: elegant Jaen, organic
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Dão Red Grapes
Grapes 80% red wine, generally fresher and higher acidity than Douro Touriga Nacional: high tannin and acidity, black fruit and floral Tinta Roriz: Early ripening, medium/medium(+) tannins, full body - Either for single varietal or blend Jaen: Moderate acidity, raspberry/blackberry (sometimes carbonic) Alfrocheiro: Medium body/tannin, strawberry + blackberry - Soft and fruity on its own, or added to blends Reds used to be astringent from oak, shorter periods now typical
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Dão Business
>90% of vineyards less than 0.5 ha, more than 30,000 growers Producers: Vinha Paz and Quinta da Pellada 15-20% exported: Canada, Brazil, USA and China
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Bairrada Overview
Maritime climate, 800-1,200 mm of rain in spring and autumn 10,000 ha of vineyards Soils: fertile alluvial in west, limestone/clay slopes Cantanhede: limestone clay for Baga in south Individually staked bush vines were traditional, now Guyot (cane) or VSP
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Bairrada wines
2/3 red wine Baga: high acidity/tannins, medium body, cranberry/cherry/plum High-yield Baga used for Mateus Rosé (lack concentration, astringent) Quality increasing in last 30 years Late ripening, productive: yields have to be limited and sites selected South aspect, eucalyptus and pine forests prevent against wind Limestone-clay soils for best ripening and water retention - reflect sunlight, aiding ripening Green harvest to enhance ripening Whole bunches add fruit, stems give structure for aging Maturation in large (500-650 l) French oak, or large toneis Niepoort Lagar de Baixo Baga Hotel Buçaco blends
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Bairrada White Grapes
Maria Gomes: early ripening, high yielding, citrus and floral Bical: Early ripening, peach + tropical - Both lose acidity quickly if left on vine Arinto + Cercial: Apple/citrus, add acidity to blends International varieties like Sauvignon Blanc + Chardonnay Sandy soils produce inexpensive wines traditional method sparkling is 10% of production
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Dão White Grapes
Encruzado: Medium/medium(+) acidity, full body, lemon and peach - Oaked wines age with nutty flavor - Malvasia Fina, Bical and Cercial are also common
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Bairrada Business
Baga Friends = small group of quality producers 2,000 growers, with merchants and co-ops Bairrada 92,000 hl in 2017, 52,000 in 2018 VR Beira Atlantico = 25,000 ha Luis Pato/Filipa Pato use VR label to object to international varieties
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Baga Clássico
min. 50% Baga, min. 85% blend of Baga, Touriga Nacional, Alfrocheiro, Jaen and Camarate
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Lisboa Environment
From Lisbon to 150 km north Coastal Serra de Montejunto range splits region 18,000 ha Clay-limestone on coast, challenging wet region East region more protected for fuller bodied wines
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Lisboa Grapes
Touriga Nacional and Aragonez, Arinto have highest potential | International varieties: Syrah, Cab. Sauvignon, Sauvignon Blanc, riesling
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Alenquer DOC
Full bodied sheltered reds from Touriga Nacional and Aragonez, Lisboa
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Bucelas
river valley 2-3 degrees cooler - marl and limestone | Arinto must be 75% of blend, high acid, sometimes lees
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Colares + Carcavelos
historic coastal DOCs Colares: ungrafted bush vines + sand for high acidity reds and local whites Serra de Sintra foothills: red Ramisco, holes in sand w/ bamboo sticks Carcavelos: sweet fortified white wine
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Lisboa Business
most production from Lisboa VR, 877,000 hl (vs. 60,000 hl in DOCs) Casa Santos Lima makes 40% of certified wine: private labels for retailers to export Carcavelos: sweet fortified white wine
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Setúbal
9,500 ha of vineyards Hot Mediterranean climate, mild winters Southern mountains for clay-limestone high altitude sites Flat and sandy sites with clay and schist inland - International varieties such as Cab. Sauvignon/Syrah (cool slopes) - Whites: Fernão Pires, Moscatel + Arinto Peninsula de Setúbal VR: Larger area, more flexible 217,000 hl José Maria da Fonseca (Periquita) Serra da Arrabida in south (clay/limestone), Palmela in north Castelão used to be called Periquita José Maria da Fonseca first Fair'n Green winery in Portugal Periquita Reserva: new French/American oak, VR Peninsula Setúbal
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Palmela DOC
In Setúbal, red wines, min. 67% Castelão, 171,000 hl - Deep color, full body, red berry, oak common - Warm sandy flat vineyards produce best quality - Clay-limestone slopes are best for early drinking
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Tejo
Inland of Lisboa, originally for volume production on fertile riverbanks Hot Mediterranean, 750 mm rainfall North is rainier, clay-limestone + schist: red wines Near river, fertile alluvial soils, vigor management: white wines South is driest, poor sandy soils: Red and white Usually fruity style, range of wines such as Trincadeira, Castelaõ, Syrah, Cab, Fernão Pires, Arinto, Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay Quality producer: Quinta da Alorna Castelão + Fernão Pires, also Alvarinho/Viognier blend Zones: northern Bairro for clay/limestone+schist, Charneca flat sand, Campo alluvial soils
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Alentejo Environment
Hot Mediterranean, 500 mm rain in south and 800 mm in north Drip irrigation common Soils include granite, schist, limestone, sand to clay Double cordon with VSP (cane requires more labor) Portalegre has high altitude 800 m (fresher, smaller vineyards, field blend) Sub region: Evora Talha DOC: destemmed, amphora until 11 November, from sub-region Portalegre: cooler, granite soils, Tapada do Chaves field blends Symington + Sogrape own quintas in Portalegre
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Alentejo Red Grapes
Black grapes are 75% of plantings Aragonez (Tinta Roriz), Alicante Bouschet and Trincadeira common as blend - Aragonez can become overripe (cooler sites) - Alicante Bouschet is teinturier, deep color, acidity + tannins - Trincadeira susceptible to rot, high yields, medium tannin/acidity, blackberry - Touriga Nacional sometimes included Syrah most common of international grapes, Cab. Sauvignon decreasing Petit Verdot for spice and tannin/color growing
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Alentejo White Grapes
Roupeiro: Good acidity, susceptible to rot Citrus and stone fruit, do not age well Arinto: acidity retention Antão Vaz: Drought tolerant, for early picked or full bodied, or talha wines - can lack acidity Chardonnay and Viognier are allowed, Alvarinho increasing Astronauta Vinho de Talha Roupeiro
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Alentejo Business
23,000 ha DOC Alentejo made of 8 sub regions Vinho de Talha DOC in 2010 for amphora skin wines Corners 37% of domestic market by volume, 40% by value 20% of Portugal's exports: Brazil, Angola, USA, Switzerland, Canada From 510,000 hl to 592,000 hl - 2017 to 2018 Alentejano VR also increased in those years Larger holdings than other regions, high volume mechanized vineyards nearly doubled since 1995, now 285 producers and 22,000 ha Proximity to Lisbon means cellar doors and other products such as olive oil
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Loire Business
Specialist wine retail/hospitality (44% in France), supermarkets (36%) 80% domestic consumption Exports 20%: US, UK and Germany Sancerre has highest volume and value (50% more than avg. price of rest)
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Gevrey-Chambertin AOC
Red wine only, largest village (Charmes Chambertin AOC) | Domaine Fourrier
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Morey-Saint-Denis AOC
Almost all red wine (Clos de Tart AOC) | Domaine Dujac
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Chambolle-Musigny AOC
Red only in village (Bonnes Mares+Musigny AOC) 40-50 m higher, sand amphitheater Grower: Sylvain Cathiard
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Vougeout AOC
Small red+white (Clos de Vougeot AOC, 50 ha) | 80 growers
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Vosne-Romanée AOC
``` Red only (Romanée-Conti AOC), Anne Gros La-Romanée 35 hl/ha ```
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Nuits-Saint-Georges AOC
Almost all red (Premier Cru Les Saint-Georges) | Henri Gouges
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Aloxe-Corton AOC, Pernand Vergelesses AOC and Ladoix-Serrigny AOC
Corton hill Corton Charlemagne Grand Cru AOC only white Corton Grand Cru AOC has multiple lieux-dits, mostly red but also white No red grand crus further south
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Beaune AOC
Mostly red (also white), 1er Cru Le Clos des Mouches, Les Grèves Domaine Drouhin Grower: Morot
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Pommard AOC
Only red, 1er cru Les Rugiens and Clos des Épeneaux (Dames de la Charité)
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Volnay AOC
Only red, 1er Cru Clos des Chênes and Les Caillerets | Lafarge
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Meursault AOC
Only white, Perrières and Charmes | Domaine des Comtes Lafon
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Puligny-Montrachet
Only white | Grand Crus: Le Montrachet AOC, Bâtard-Montrachet AOC
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Chassagne-Montrachet
Some red at village and 1er Cru level
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St Aubin AOC
Only white, 1er Cru Sur le Sentier du Clou and En Remilly | St Romain AOC: Mainly white
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Auxey-Duresses AOC + Santenay AOC
Mainly red
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Bouzeron AOC
100% Aligoté, finest plantings | Domaine A et P de Villaine
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Rully AOC
More whites than reds (1er Cru for both, 25% of appellation) Crémant de Bourgogne is major here Jacqueson
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Mercurey AOC
More red than white, 25% 1er Cru 40% of Chalonnaise red Faiveley
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Givry AOC
Mostly red, 40% 1er Cru
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Montagny AOC
Only white, 2/3 1er Cru | Louis Latour is large part of production (1er Cru La Grand Roche)
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Mâconnais
Mostly white, inexpensive often labelled as Bourgogne AOC Reds are often Gamay Lafon makes single-vineyard whites (Clos de la Crochette in village of Chardonnay) Cave de Lugny cooperative
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Mâcon AOC
Mostly red/rosé, small white
219
Mâcon-Villages
Mâcon-Chardonnay, Mâcon-Lugny Named villages: Pouilly-Fuissé AOC, Saint-Verán AOC + Viré-Clesse AOC Also Pouilly-Vinzelles, Pouilly-Loché
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Petit Chablis
Higher and cooler, Portlandian (Tithonian) hard limestone w/less clay, 60 hl/ha
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Chablis
Kimmeridgian, different aspects | (Flat land or gentle slopes, often face north), 60 hl/ha
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Chablis Premier Cru
40 named vineyards, S and SE slopes, Kimmeridgian Some have lieux-dit piece of land within them, this name can be used e.g. Montmains on left bank has Butteaux, 58 hl/ha
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Chablis Grand Cru
Single Grand Cru with 7 named climats: e.g. Les Clos, Vaudesir SW on right bank of Serein (more weight and concentration Soil: crumbly marl for drainage, clay for water retention only 1% of production Protected from north wind by belt of trees 54 hl/ha
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Chablis winemaking
Chaptalisation common except in warm years Stainless steel fermentation, steel/concrete storage MLF is common, lees as well Raveneau old oak, Louis Michel steel, Fèvre new oak
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China Overview
Cabernet Sauvignon by far dominates Merlot, Carmenère (Cabernet Gernischt) Red predominantly - oak or not French investment is key
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China History
- Late 19th century, Zhang Bishi imports 150 V. vinifera varieties - Changyu winery in Yantai (Shangdong Province) - Expansion in 1980s: CITIC partnership with France and Remy Martin - Dynasty wine, in Huailai (near Beijing) - Dragon Seal joint venture w/Pernod Ricard - Ningxia Province: Chandon - Government campaign in 1990s promoted wine - Health and shortage of grains (less grain alcohol) - 10% of vine area for vineyards (rest for table grapes, gift giving) - Domestic wine shift: anti-extravagance laws mean wineries cannot gift to officials - Consumers are now targeted
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Heilongjian + Jilin
Far northeast, extreme cold (winter burying, water retention underground)
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Beijing + Hebei
Humid continental, torrential rain August/September 200-300 mm rain per year, cool Pacific breezes moderate temps and reduce humidity Fungal diseases in summer Plantings used to be flat land, poor draining and fertile Vines near ocean do not need burying, but have humidity, rain and fertile soils Wine+ecotourism, grape festival and Great Wall route
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Shandong
Warm maritime, wetter and w/rain August/September before or at harvest Rot is a problem due to precipitation 1/4 of China's wineries, Chateau Lafite's Penglai Estate tourism - Long Dai Marselan
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Shanxi + Shaanxi
Dry continental (<500 mm rain) Grace Vineyard Aglianico on loess Shaanxi is more humid to the south, more fungal disease
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Ningxia
Arid continental (200 mm rain), monsoons, windy Yellow River for irrigation water Helan Shan region: mountains protect from NW desert wind Silver Heights Kanaan Riesling
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Xinjiang + Gansu
NW Xinjiang extremely dry (80 mm of rain), early winter snow Wind and frost (spring and autumn), vines at 1,100m+ Water from snowmelt Tian Shan mountains, warm climate+dry=high volume Gansu is dry, short growing season, cooler than Xinjian Wine sold to wineries in east
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Yunnan
``` Far south, sub-tropical and humid High altitude (1,600-2,900 m) slopes in Himalayan foothills Long season without frost, no winter burying Ao Yun includes Petit Verdot ```
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China Vineyard Management
Traditional vineyards: ungrafted - Multi Cordon Fan training (low trunk, table grapes) - Single Dragon (spur-pruned cordon at angle) These systems are high-yielding, w/o single fruiting zone (uneven ripening) New training: Chang spur-pruning w/trunk bent for easy burial+unified fruit Quality risks? Dense canopy, over-irrigation and fertilization Leaf roll virus (under-ripe fruit) Use of Cabernet Sauvignon+Carmènere: green flavors if under-ripe Lack of training and planting material (in past) All land is government-owned, so changes have to be officially approved Vineyard advisers cannot change training system without agricultural unit Burying from November to March-April: manual labor skill, 20-30% cost increase - Machines can help but people are essential - Older skilled laborers want more pay, younger people want to go to cities
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China Winemaking
V. amurensis (Amur Valley), cold-resistant but unusual aromas 70% Cabernet, 10% Carmenère Winemaking Bordeaux-style, premium wines 18 months in French oak Technical skills improving, faults decreasing (volatile/Brett) Better canopy management and harvest planning: riper tannins Top award won by Helan Qingxue at Decanter
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China Law
Wine is treated as food product, whether Chinese or imported 100% fermented grape juice, alcohol percent, production date + shelf life 10% industrial (not agricultural) tax on product
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China Business
Affluent middle-class: market growth 70% in last decade 5th largest consumer in world, per capita very low (1.5 liter) 3 companies: Changyu, Great Wall (COFCO) and Dynasty - Mostly bulk, rely on blends w/imported wines - Diverse portfolios: COFCO's Chateau Junding premium - Acquisition of foreign wineries - Grace Vineyard in Shangxi, Silver Heights in Ningxia, Ao Yun in Yunnan
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China Trends
Online sales important (TMall) and Alibaba Fraud of top imported wines is a problem Consumption overwhelmingly domestic Wine can be purchased at any time of day in supermarkets, hospitality, KTV, tobacco
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Jura Environment
Moderate continental, high rainfall (1,100 mm) Threat to flowering, fruit set - makes vineyard work difficult (heavy clay soils) - Weed work and fungal disease sprays add cost, hail loses crop Altitudes: 250-400 m, clay + marl soils (some limestone) Grass between rows reduce erosion, less herbicide use (only right below vines) Replacement cane at height (frost), VSP for air flow Machine harvesting except on steep slopes Avg. yield reds 23 hl/ha in 2017 (much below max. due to weather)
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Jura Grapes
Chardonnay (40% of plantings) - Cremant de Jura, early budding spring frosts Savagnin (20% of plantings) - Early budding (frost), resistant to fungals, steep marl slopes Poulsard (15% of plantings) - Very early budding, coulure and fungal diseases (less yield, cost) ``` Pinot Noir (10% of plantings) - Crémant, red blends, single variety increasing ``` Trousseau (8% of plantings) - Thick skin, resistant to fungal disease (but botrytis is a problem) - Poor flowering and coulure, vigorous variety - Warm sites, gravel/low slopes or exposed higher slopes
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Jura Winemaking
Whites: Mid-range temps in steel/oak barrels for Chardonnay/Savagnin (less fruity esters) MLF is typical Reds: Short maceration (5-10 days), 30 C or below Poulsard can be carbonic/semi Old oak aging (less than one year) Trousseau and Pinot Noir may be macerated on skins longer Very little new oak, some Chardonnay is "Burgundian": old oak ferment with lees stirring for body
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Vin Jaune
Savagnin fermented to dryness, then aged with ouillage - develops 'le voil' of flor-type yeast No topping up or moving for 60 months (many wines for blending are removed earlier) Inoculation or natural (well-ventilated cellar, temperature fluctuations in seasons) Alcohol rises 1% up to 13.5-15 (transpiration through barrels) Style: medium lemon/gold, pronounced dough walnuts, ginger green apple, medium body
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Vin de Paille
Sweet wine, grapes dried off vine: any variety but Pinot Noir More than 14% ABV, sugar 70-120 g/l typically, 18 months oak, 3 years aging Yield 20 hl/ha
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Côtes du Jura AOC
560 ha, whole Jura region including specific village appellations - Any style allowed, but most is white
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Arbois AOC
780 ha, all five wines, most Jura reds come from this AOC | Yield 55 hl/ha, average 23 hl/ha
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Château-Chalon AOC
Vin Jaune only, 54 ha
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L'Etoile AOC
White wines + Vin Jaune + Vin de Paille, 73 ha
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Jura white wine
White wine (except for Vin Jaune/Vin de Paille) - Savagnin and/or Chardonnay min. 80% of blend - Yield 60 hl/ha
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Jura red/rosé
Red/rosé - Pinot noir/Poulsard/Trousseau min. 80% of blend - Yield 55 hl/ha
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Vine Jaune law
- Only Savagnin, yield 60 hl/ha - Château-Chalon yield 30 hl/ha - 60 months under voile - Sale January 7 years after harvest - 62 cl clavelin bottle (exception at EU level)
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Jura Business
Vine radically reduced since 1850s Vin Jaune is 5% of production, Vin de Paille tiny 50% estates, négociants 30%, 4 co-ops 20% 50% of wine from 3 companies: co-op Fruitière Vinicole d'Arbois négociant La Maison du Vigneron Henri Maire (owned by Boisset) 20% organic (2x French average), lots of natural wines Vintage variation huge
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South Africa Environment
Warm Mediterranean, Western Cape slopes and mountains Benguela Current flows north, cooling influence Agulhas Current from Indian Ocean between Cape Town and Cape Agulhas Cape Doctor wind: SE, spring and summer - inhibits disease but can damage leaves/inhibit flowering
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Pinotage
U of Stellenbosch, 1925: Cinsaut (Hermitage) x Pinot Noir Early budding, moderate susceptibility to fungal disease High alcohol + small berries: deep color, short post-fermentation maceration Quality dubious, but avoiding water stress and lowering fermentation temps helps
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South Africa Soils
1. Table Mountain sandstone: sandy, low nutrients, draining (irrigation+fertilisation) 2. Granite soils: foothill slopes of mountains: hold water, good for dry farming 3. Shale soils: Good nutrients and water retention, good for dry farming
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South Africa Vineyard
Acidity in Cape soils is an issue: lime treatment typical (otherwise, nutrient availability is affected) Viral diseases such as leafroll/fanleaf reduce yield, require replacement - Solution: viral testing Powdery mildew most common, treated by systemic fungicides or organic treatments Training: VSP cordon, 2.4m tall fruiting wire Short spur pruning also common (mechanization), but hand harvest due to cheap labor
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South Africa Sustainability
Integrated pest management (organic and biodynamic uncommon) Integrated Production of Wine system: 1998, detailed guide to wine making, including soil, carbon emissions, staff training (90% of export producers, 95% of grapes) - How is it controlled? Self-control, audits of documentation, spot-check
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South Africa High-Volume
``` High-volume inexpensive High yield, spraying, little sorting Blend up to 15% of Colombard Acidification, no MLF, cultured yeast Cool fermentation, stainless steel or concrete Several months in tank/old oak, chips/staves Residual sugar 5 g/l or more (RCGM) Fining and filtering Bulk transport for bottling ```
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South Africa Small-Volume Premium
Low yield, dry farming/old vines, some botrytis, sorting 100% Chenin Blanc No acidification, no MLF, yeast depends on choice Cool fermentation, maybe eggs or amphora Fermentation in barrels for better oak integration 3-9 months on lees, or 10-12 months in eggs/amphora/old oak, or new oak for 10-12 months No adjustment of sugar, 1.5-6 g/l Fining and filtering as needed Bottled in South Africa
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Pinotage Winemaking
cold soak for extraction, pumping down/punching over early on for less tannins Red plum/blackberry, high tannins, high alcohol Traditional style has 3-5 days post-fermentation maceration, modern style lighter Premium wines often have more than 50% new oak barriques, 12-15 months (75%)
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South Africa Laws
Geographical unit: Large areas (Western Cape is nearly all of South Africa) Region: Large areas such as Coastal Region or Breede River Valley District: Stellenbosch, Walker Bay Ward: Area within District (Simonsberg-Stellenbosch) Ward is based on climate/soil/ecology, district is broader Estate wine: grown made and bottled on estate Single-vineyard also legal definition - Registered, single variety, no more than 6 ha
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Wine of Origin South Africa
certifies labeling claim: 100% region, 85% vintage, 85% variety Quality also certified, seal with ID number goes on packaging
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Integrated Production of Wine
1998: sustainable farming guidelines (95%)
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WWF-SA Conversion Champion Programme
- Biodiversity and Wine Initiative (BWI), 2005: 90% by 2015 | - Now WWF-SA Conversion Champion Programme for biodiversity/energy efficiency
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Integrity and Sustainability
- Wine and Spirits Board for Integrity and Sustainability seal in 2010 - Chemical usage, water management and natural predators, linked to Wine of Origin
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Wine and Agricultural Ethical Trade Association (WIETA)
- Voluntary business association for audited ethical trade - 60% of wineries have certification for fair working conditions - 2/3 of Fairtrade wines comes from South Africa
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South Africa Business
Trade sanctions removed with democracy in 1994, foreign investors came in KWV rights repealed from 1992, privatized in 1997 - previously fixed prices of wine, approved purchased, set quotes, controlled vine cuttings - end of regulation allowed focus on quality production, new channels Wines of South Africa founded in 1990s, funded by export levies Half of wines are domestic Low consumption per capita, stable in decades - value packs (bricks) Distell has more than 40% of domestic market Volume exports have exploded, more than 135 countries UK is 25% of exports, then Germany US, China and African countries are crucial for value Goal is to increase packaged wine, but bulk is winning Bulk wine means lower prices, and jobs lost in finishing/packaging Many producers have an unsustainable income level
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Coastal Region
45% of country's vineyards, 25% of wine (lower yields)
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District: Cape Town
- defined 2017, four wards (repealed Cape Peninsula) | - Connection between vineyard area and tourism destination
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Ward: Constantia
- Vin de Constance: dried Muscat sweet wine, Klein Constantia - E slopes of Constantiaberg (south of Table Mountain) - 10 km from False Bay, cooling breezes - 1,000 mm of rain per year - Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, Shiraz - No Pinot Noir due to windy conditions - Producers: Klein Constantia and Steenberg
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Ward: Durbanville
- north suburbs of Cape Town - Shale soil, Tygerberg hills, altitude 100-300 - Rainfall just 500 mm due to mountain protection - Water-retaining soils for dry farming - Breezes from False Bay, evening mist reduces temps by 5 degrees - Sauvignon Blanc is main variety (greener) - Producers: Bloemendal and Diemersdal Bloemendal's Suider Terras Sauvignon Blanc starts ferment in concrete, then moved to 100% new French oak for 11 months off lees
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District: Stellenbosch
- Around town of Stellenbosch, w/enology university - Established country's reputation for quality w/Cabernet Sauvignon - Business: Distell (largest producer), new estates, growers - Mountain slops, soil types and False Bay breezes provide cooling - 600-900 mm of rain per year, warm climate - Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot + Pinotage - Whites: Sauvignon Blanc, Chenin Blanc and Chardonnay - Lower yield and earlier harvests make fresher, low alcohol wines Producers: Rust en Vrede (Tukulu granite soils) and Raats Family Wines Kanonkop in Stellenbosch has two ranges: Kadette for easy drinking, Estate for complex wines
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Ward: Simonsberg-Stellenbosch
- SW slopes of Simonsberg, warmer than bay and Stellenbosch/Helderberg sites - Ocean breezes, larger diurnal range than flat sites - Cabernet Sauvignon/Pinotage reputation - Producers: Kanonkop + Rustenberg
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istrict: Paarl
- North of Stellenbosch, many different climates - Rainfall 800-900 mm, Berg River for irrigation water - Ripe and fuller body than Stellenbosch - Chenin Blanc, Cab. Sauvignon, Shiraz and Pinotage - Viognier and Mourvèdre increasing in warm sites - Voor Paardeberg ward is increasing - Producers: Nederburg (Distell) and Vilafonté (classy)
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Ward: Simonsberg-Paarl
- Warmer side of Simonsberg, higher elevation (diurnal range) - Chardonnay and Shiraz/red blends - Producers: Glen Carlou, Plaisir de Merle
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District: Franschhoek Valley
- SE of Paarl, bordered by mountains on three sides - Valley floor of 300 m, now sites up to 600 m for diurnal range - 800 mm of rain a year, but draining soils require irrigation - Sauvignon Blanc, Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz - Old-vine Semillon - Fresher fruit for blending found here - Producers: Boekenhoutskloof (Chocolate Block), Cape Chamonix
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District: Darling
- North of Cape Town, hills parallel to West Coast - Groenekloof ward has aspects for ocean breezes - Sauvignon Blanc dominants, also fresh reds (Cab/Merlot/Shiraz) - Weathered granite soils for water retention (dry farming/bush vines) - Producers: Neil Ellis (buys grapes), Groote Post
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District: Swartland
- Warm, dry with 500 mm per year (in growing season) - Old vines are famous, lower yields (otherwise irrigation) - Low fertility granite/shale soils around Paardeberg - 1) Older businesses (co=ops): Perdeberg Wines/Riebeek valley Wine Co. - 2) Modern 2000s wave of new growers/styles - Charles Back at Spice Route, Eben Sadie/Chris Mullineux - Low yields, dry farming, organic, old vines, ambient yeast, old oak - Fruit sourced here for Cape Blends, big six plus Cinsault, Rhone grapes Swartland Independent: natural wines without chemical fining, no more than 25% new oak
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District: Tulbagh
- No coastal influence, warm horseshoe valley - Altitude (400-500 m), mountain shade and cold morning air trapped - Soil holds water and rainwater can be collected - Chenin, Shiraz and Colombard for cheap blends - Pinotage for premium Blends - Producers: Saronberg for Shiraz/Shiraz blends
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District: Wellington
- Just NE of Cape Town, Shiraz and red blends - Alluvial terraces near Swartland - Foothills of Hawequa Mountains bring folds and valleys - Nurseries here supply 85% of vine cuttings - Producer: bosman family vineyards
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District: Breedekloof
- Grape growing without irrigation due to adequate rainfall - Snow in winter and spring delay budburst (otherwise spring frost) - Warm continental climate for later harvest - SE winds for lower temp/disease - Varied soils for big 6 varieties - Producers: Du Toitskloof Cellar co-op, Deetlefs
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District: Worcester
- Low rain 400 mm (rain shadow), irrigation needed - Fertile loam soils for high volume, distilling industry - Colombard/Chenin Blanc, now joined by Chardonnay/Sauvignon/Viognier/Shiraz
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District: Robertson
- Low rainfall, irrigation needed: SE winds for cooling and Indian Ocean moisture - Flat plains for fertile conditions, high yields (historically distillation) - Limestone soils for Chardonnay is important - Growing recognition of Shiraz/Cabernet Sauvignon - Producers Robertson Winery, De Wetshof, Graham Beck
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OLIFANTS RIVER REGION
- Very dry (200 mm rain) warm, irrigation needed - High yields, distillation - Namaqua Wines for domestic and UK export, inexpensive - Citrusdal Mountain/Lutzville Valley districts - Bamboes Bay + Piekenierskloof wards - Old vine dry farming, 450-550 m altitude and Atlantic Ocean cooling - Producers: Sadie Family Wines, Alheit Vineyards Citrusdal mountain ward, Skurfberg mountain: Eben Sadie's Kokerboom single-vineyard semillon
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CAPE SOUTH COAST
``` Atlantic Ocean: Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir Recent plantings (1990s) and small (>3% of country's plantings) ```
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District: Walker Bay
Cool, next to Atlantic Ocean 1975: Tim Hamilton-Russell planted Chardonnay and Pinot Noir Then in 1989, others came along
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Ward: Hemel-en-Aarde
- Inland of Hermanus, cooling winds reduce vigor - North aspect to achieve ripeness - Clay soils up to 55% (Burgundy), water holding capacity - Apart from Chardonnay/Pinot Noir, big six and Albariño/Viognier
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Hemel-en-Aarde Valley
- lowest altitude, original area (nearest to Atlantic) - Fresher than inland areas but still ripe, upwards of 14% - Producers: bouchard Finlayson
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Upper Hemel-en-Aarde Valley
- Higher elevation, N and W aspect | - Producers: Newton Johnson Family Vineyards
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Hemel-en-Aarde Ridge
- Coldest, highest (up to 400 m) - Further insland, S and E facing slopes - Babylonstoren Mountains trap clouds, moisture and shade - Producers: Creation
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Ward: Bot River
- Bot River Lagoon funnels cold wind into nearby mountain slopes - Warmer than Hemel-en-Aarde, cooler than Paarl/Stellenbosch - Long growing season for Sauvignon Blanc + Chenin - Rhone varieties and Pinotage also grown - Producers: Beaumont New Baby 5 white varietals in 30% new oak
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District: Elgin
- 70 km SE of Cape town, on plateau 200-400 m - Much cooler than other areas, 3/4 of growing degree days - Altitude, clouds and ocean influence lower temperatures - 1,000 mm per year of rain, fungal diseases - some botrytised wine - Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Riesling, Pinot Noir, Merlot and Shiraz - Producers: Paul Cluver, Richard Kershaw Wines
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KLEIN KAROO
Semi-arid, 4 hours east of Cape town Port-style wines in Calitzdorp, fortified Muscat, whites for brandy Some Sauvignon Blanc/Chardonnay/Shiraz in mountains
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Tokaj Environment
Zemplen Mountains, 6,000 ha 150-400 m altitude, latitude 48-49 (limits of viticulture) Rainfall 500-600 mm per year (summer), no irrigation 1,500 sunlight hours: South/SE slopes Tisza+Bodrog Rivers - the Bodrog floods (moist marsh air) Soils: loess (sandy silt w/clay) Tokaj hill light wines and volcanic nyirok, powerful Volcanic bedrock for deep roots and cellars for aging Zasmidium cellare fungus in cellars regulates humidity
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Tokaj Vineyard Management
Traditional: single post, 10,000 vines/ha Now cane/cordon VSP, 4,000-5,000 vines/ha Mechanization possible, slopes are worked by hand Hand harvest for aszú berries, labor available Disease: powdery mildew, grey rot in wet years Wild boar and birds, canopy management Yields 2 to 3 hl/ha, dry wines 30 to 40 hl/ha
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Furmint
69% of plantings, dry to sweet Late-ripening, high acidity + thick skin High sugar, shriveling - retains acidity Ageworthy wines aged in oak (can be high alcohol) Lemon, apple pear - honey and nuts with age Botrytis gives mango and dried apricot
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Other Tokaj Grapes
Hárslevelü 18%, fruitier white peach and orange blossom: perfume Usually in blends, but also varietal dry and sweet Sárga Muskotály 9% of vines, floral notes to dry and sweet, also varietal usually dry Zéta (Oremus: Furmint+Bouvier), Kabar (Hárslevelü and Bouvier) Experiments to reintroduce nearly extinct Gohér
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Aszú Winemaking
Shriveled botrytis grapes, normal pressing won't work Macerate grapes in must/fermenting must/base wine Style: deep amber, high acidity, low-medium alcohol, orange peel, apricots and honey Hot dry years have much less aszú Multiple vineyard passes required, then grapes stored Grapes typically mashed into paste (pump) Some producers don't mash to avoid bitter skin/seeds 12-60 hours of paste maceration (or punch down) Temperature 12-15, or 16-20 with strong ferment Strength of style: must (weakest) - young wine - fermenting must (strongest) Fermenting must is complex bust also can add bitterness Fermenting must is most extractive early on Juice is drained, pneumatic pressing, then fermented Ambient yeast or cultured for reliability, steel or barrels Stop fermentation by chilling, racking or SO2: control house style, avoid risk of refermentation
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Tokaji Aszú Requirements
Base wine requirements: 12.08% ABV (usually around 15%) Grape varieties and level of botrytis are freely chosen for base wine Minimum 18 months in oak, Hungarian 136 l gönci, 300-500 l now used traditional clear 500 ml bottle required 2013: minimum now 5 puttonyos 120g/l, 6 puttonyos 150g/l
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Eszencia
Syrupy free-run juice, can take years to ferment (less than 5% ABV) Min. 450 g/l, full body + long aging
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Late Harvest
Style similar to other regions (no paste maceration) Less botrytized, lighter body and less concentrated Min. 45 g/l, typically 90 to 110 g/l Oak aging not required, stainless steel for fruit common 12 to 16 months after harvest for release
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Szamorodni
Polish 'as it comes': whole mixed bunches édes or száraz (ripeness or botrytis level determines this) Sweeter style (édes) is more common Sugar levels same as late harvest 2016: law changed, now 6 months oak only Increased focus (more 'authentic' than Late Harvest) Similar quality to aszú, same bottle, but fresher száraz has flor yeast: 10 years, no topping up - nutty apple
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Tokaji dry wine
Move towards dry wine: 3x in past 5 years Approach: healthy grapes, higher and windier sites, open canopies and treatments to prevent rot First wave: MLF, very ripe, long oak aging Now: lighter bodied, varietal + terroir or Dülö single-vineyard Kabar used in addition to others (mostly Furmint) 85% required for varietal labeling
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Tokaj Wine Law
Hungary joined EU in 2004 Tokaji PDO has sub-villages, estates and vineyards Bottling in region as of 2013 vintage Zempléni PGI: other grapes, international and high yield
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Tokaj Business
Increasing vineyards as dry production expands, but half unused 1 to 2 ha avg. holdings, growers have producer contracts Grand Tokaj: 2,000 growers, 35% of region's wines (state-owned) 170,000 hl avg., 10% aszú, 21% dry wines Large volumes of semi-sweet inexpensive 40% exports, Eastern Europe, China, France, UK and US
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Tokaj extras
Rock flour soil of decomposed pumice - low heat capacity, Oremus vineyard rhyolitic soils, Mandolás has 50% wood (Hungarian oak, Quercus frainetto) No acifidication or added sugar as of 2015 Forditás: historic wine from must and already used paste Disznókö AXA: also vineyard Royal Tokaj has Mézes Maly first growth on loess soils Oremus uses 136-l gönc and 220-l Szerednye (gönci hordó) Late harvest = késöi szüret
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Germany Overview
23% of vineyard area is Riesling Germany is world's largest Riesling producer Reputation for medium-sweet cheap wines: 60% of exports in 80s Laws based on must weight introduced in 1830s Flurbereinigung: Consolidation of parcels, building access roads for mechanization 5th German wine law of 1971 lays out labeling and classification Production still dominated by bulk wine, but quality increasing
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Germany Business
100,000 ha of vines, 9 million hL production 16,000 growers, 50% own 3 or less ha, flatter area holdings increasing Number of growers has reduced 20% since 2010 (unsustainable prices) Wine estates grow and make best wines, 5 ha - 100 ha Generation Riesling, 2005 Weinkellerei merchant houses buy grapes Coops have long tradition in Germany, 30% of total vineyards (3/4 in Baden-Württemberg)
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Germany Sales
Domestic consumption important, 20 milllion hl (14-15 million hl imported) 10% of production (1 million hl) exported, this has halved but price is now 300 per hl Markets: US, Netherlands, UK, Norway and Sweden (US and Norway high value) Deutsches Weininstitut promotes quality and sale, Riesling Weeks for global promotion
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Germany Environment
Cool continental, around 49-50 N latitude Rhine River and tributaries for heat radiation, extending growing season Rainfall of 500-800 mm, mostly in summer (fungus, dilution and hail) Long dry autumns prolong season, morning mist for botrytis Low altitudes (mostly below 200 m), mountains protect from wind/rain
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Germany Soils
Mosel + Ahr: Dark colored slate stores heat, radiates during night Calcareous soils for Spätburgunder, Weissburgunder + Chardonnay (Baden, Pfalz, Rheinhessen), Silvaner (Franken) Clay soils for Grauburgunder Erosion is a problem on slopes, winching soil/rocks necessary
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Germany Vineyard
Yields average 100 hl/ha: max. 150 hl/ha for Deutscher Wein, 105 hl/ha for Qualitätswein Vintage variation signification, reduced by climate change + technology Clonal selection, summer pruning, green harvesting and selected hand harvesting Individual stakes with tied canes are traditional (labor intensive) Now single/double cane/VSP and Pendelbogen for arched flow of sap Organic and biodynamic not typical, spray needed (helicopter in Mosel) 9% of vineyards are certified organic, many are sustainable Caterpillar tractors, high labor even on flat sites Beerenauslese or higher must be hand-harvested for healthy fruit
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Germany Winemaking
Experimentation with lees/oak (Grau/Weissburgunder) Enrichment common, not allowed for Prädikatswein (EU Zone A, up to 3% ABV) Baden is Zone B, up to 2% ABV De-acifidication permitted, acidification in hottest years Casks: Mosel Fuder 1,000 L, Rhine Stück 1,200 L - German oak from Pfalz New oak used for grapes other than Riesling Süssreserve was added in 60s and 70s after fermentation (same region + quality level grapes) - contains no alcohol or little Now fermentation is stopped by SO2, racking or filtering RCGM only allowed for Deutscher Wein Shift towards trocken or halbtrocken Thermovinification used for red wines, fermented off skins Rosé is 11% of domestic sales, inexpensive and youthful
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Riesling
(23,000 ha) Late budding + thick wood (frost resistant), but late ripening (needs long season) Plantings fell in 70s, now with better techniques rising again Botrytis and high sugar make it good for sweet wines White flowers, honeysuckle, with age toast, honey and petrol Only 3 Riesling clones are authorized in Alsace (49, 1089, 1091), more than 60 in Germany
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Other German Grapes
Müller-Thurgau (11,000 ha) a.k.a. Rivaner, German cross, earlier ripening + high yielding Medium acidity, less structure but simple floral wines Spätburgunder (11.5% of plantings) Growth 3x in recent years, warm areas like Baden Clones, canopy management + careful harvest date planning for balance Whole bunch fermentation adds tannins without oak Less new oak, larger oak than 10-20 years ago Mariafeld clones for loose berries (botrytis resistance) - Freiberg, Geisenheim Dornfelder German cross, growth over past 30 years (7,500 ha) Deep color, high acidity, fruity and floral sour cherry + blackberry Rheinhessen and Pfalz = most planted black variety Crossing w/grandparents including Pinot Noir Précoce + Blaufränkisch Silvaner Chlorosis and mildew Plantings dropped by 1/2 since 1980, now stable: lower acidity and less aromatic Franken: dry, medium body, medium/medium(+) acidity and earthy note Würzburger Stein vineyard Grauburgunder: More popular since 1990s, Rheinhessen, Pfalz + Baden Heavier soils, medium acidity + stone fruit/tropical, dried fruit and honey Full bodied sweet wines labelled as Ruländer Weissburgunder: Medium(+) acidity, citrus and stone fruit Chardonnay permitted since 1990, oak aging south Pfalz or Baden (Kaiserstuhl)
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Germany Minor Grapes
Portugieser, Schwarzriesling (Pinot Meunier), Trollinger (Schiava), Lemberger (Blaufränkisch): Easy drinking, Württemberg - now Lemberger producing quality Müller-Thurgau developed in 1990s for earlier ripening Scheurebe: full body, ripe grapefruit and peach, less acid than Riesling (can be sweet) Kerner: Quality wines, even Prädikat level, high acidity and floral
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Deutscher Wein/Landwein
``` Deutscher Wein (Tafelwein) Grown in Germany, between 8.5% and 15% ABV, any style ``` Landwein PGI wine, introduced 1982 - 85% from Landwein region, same ABV as Deutscher Wein Usually only trocken or halbtrocken 4% of production together with Deutscher Wein
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Qualitätswein
PDO: 13 quality regions (Anbaugebiete), name must go on label min. ABV 7% (sweeter wines allowed), no max. - enrichment permitted VDP using "Qualitätswein trocken" and Prädikatswein only for sweet - Lab analysis, blind tasting - Amtliche Prüfungsnummer (10-12 digits) - Where and when tasted, vineyard location, lot number
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Prädikatswein
Also PDO, one of 40 Bereiche (do not need to be stated) No enrichment, any variety allowed (usually Riesling) Usually 1/2 production of Qualitätswein, but can be equal
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Kabinett
Dry to medium-sweet, 7-12% ABV | Light-bodied, highest acidity (Riesling green/citrus)
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Spätlese
Dry to medium-sweet, min. 7% ABV | Harvested two weeks later, fuller body + higher alcohol
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Auslese
Dry to sweet, min. 7% ABV Hand-harvesting not mandatory (hand sorting in winery also) Honeyed, sometimes botrytis Other sweetness terms often used on label
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Beerenauslese
Always sweet, min. 5.5% ABV Must be hand-harvested, individually selected berries Long slow fermentation, botrytis typical but not required Ripe and dried stone fruit for Riesling Only produced in botrytis years, labor-intensive and expensive
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Eiswein
Same must weights as BA, picked at temps below -7C Category created in 1982, harvest from Dec.-Feb. Grapes must be pressed while frozen No botrytis, lots of crop lost to disease/predators (sheets) - Pure peach and grapefruit flavors, premium price
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Trockenbeerenauslese
High must weight, botrytis Raisin-like grapes, high acidity, rarely above 8% ABV Very low yields, highly expensive
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German sweetness
- trocken (up to 4 g/l or up to 9 g/l if acidity is <2g/l lower) - halbtrocken/feinherb (4-12g/l, up to 18 g/l if acidity is <10g/l lower) - lieblich (12-45 g/l residual sugar) - süss (>45 g/l sugar) Baden 65% trocken wines, Mosel 30% trocken Feinherb is not legally defined, can be sweeter than halbtrocken Mosel: Goldkapsel means botrytis, longer capsule means higher concentration
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Einzellage
Einzellagen: Vineyard sites, avg. 38 ha (2,658 in total) - from 1 ha to >200 ha Grosslagen: Collective vineyards, 600-1,800 ha, 167 registered (only for Qualitätswein and Prädikatswein) Rheinland-Pfalz (Ahr, Mosel, Nahe, Pfalz and rheinhessen) allows individual plots to be added to name
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Liebfraumilch
medium-dry Qualitätswein, >18 g/l sugar, 70% Riesling, Silvaner, Müller-Thurgau and Kerner: most come from Rheinhessen, Pfalz (majority), Rheingau or Nahe
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VDP
founded 1910, originally for Mosel, Pfalz, Rheingau and Rheinhessen First goal was Naturweine without enrichment (rejected in 1960s) 200 members with 5% of vineyard area (3% wine by volume, 7.5% by value) More than half is Riesling, less than 1/4 is exported Stricter yields, higher must weights, traditional regional grapes Members audited every five years, 1/5th are sustainable Prädikat is only for sweet wines Four-tier system tinkered in 2012 (lobbying for German law protection)
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Gutswein/Ortswein
VDP Gutswein: Regional wines, generic: yield 75 hl/ha | VDP Ortswein: Village wines, typical varieties from region: yield 75 hl/ha
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VDP Erste Lage
Premier Cru, local association approves grapes for site - Yield 60 hl/ha, hand harvesting and must weights of Spatlese status - Traditional winemaking techniques - Village and vineyard name must appear on label
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VDP Grosse Lage
Grand cru, best parcels: long aging potential, determined by association - Yield 50 hl/ha, more restricted varieties - Riesling allowed everywhere (only botrytised in Ahr) - Spätburgunder allowed except for Mosel and Nahe - Dry whites: release 1 September year after harvest - Reds: 12 months oak aging, 1st September year after aging - Sweet Prädikat, 1 May year after harvest Grosses Gewächs GG: Dry Grosse lage, only vineyard name on label
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Rheingau Charta
1984, promotes best dry wines from Rheingau - Erstes Gewächs used for best site Riesling or Spätburgunder - Hand harvest, lower yields, dry with Spätlese must weight - 1999: joined VDP, Erstes Gewächs can now be GG
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Rheinhessen
Almost 1/4 of German vineyards, highest yields Warm and dry, protected by Hunsrück and Taunus mountains Fertile valley floors (Liebfraumilch started in Worms) 71% of plantings are white: Riesling, Müller-Thurgau, Silvaner and Burgunders Dornfelder most planted black (double Spätburgunder) Bulk production, merchant houses (small estates for quality) Rheinterrase: West bank near Nierstein/Oppenheim, steep slopes - Roter Hang - Rotliegenden iron soil w/slate, clay and sandstone (smoky) - hematite mudstone Wein vom Roten Hang association - Niersteiner Hipping Wonnegau region: quality Riesling and Spätburgunder Gunderloch (Rheinterrasse), Weingut Keller (Worms) Liebfrauenstift-Kirchenstück vineyard Maxime Herkunft Rheinhessen - 70 growers
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Pfalz
Haardt mountain rain shadow, dry and drought concern Nearly as much production as Rheinhessen, 65% white varieties Riesling is 1/4 of plantings, more full bodied and ripe fruit Dornfelder most planted black (second overall) Mittelhaardt: Bad Dürckheim, Wachenheim, Forst, Deidesheim in north Deidesheim almost all Grosse Lage (Mäushöhle) Forst soils: water-retentive clay, black basalt S/SE slopes in foothills, varied soil (limestone/sandstone/basalt/clay) Südliche Weinstrasse: fertile sandstone soils for bulk production, Knipser Bros Pinot Noir - Now quality Burgunders (dominated by pinots due to politics) Dr. Bürklin-Wolf (Forster Pechstein GG) Winzerverein Deidesheim
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Baden
Main area opposite Alsace, warm and sunny Spätburgunder is most planted variety, but 59% of wines are white Kaiserstuhl: Steep extinct volcano, full body, high alcohol, smoky fruit Ortenau, or calcareous Tuniberg and Breisgau: more acidity, delicate fruit Müller-Thurgau popular (inexpensive blends), quality Burgunders + Chardonnay Co-ops 75% of production Badischer Winzerkeller in Breisach 1/2 of Germany's Pinot Noir (35% of region) Franz Keller makes Pinot/Chardonnay w/Burgundian clones
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Württemberg
Light fruity reds for domestic consumption Main co-op is Möglingen, smaller estates gaining ground on terraced Neckar 68% black grapes, warm summer: Trollinger, Lemberger and Schwarzriesling Fuller bodied examples with oak aging now produced Riesling is half of whites Trollinger has 20% of grapes Fellbacher Lämmler: top site for Lemberger, Rainer Schnaitmann Rainer Schnaittmann, Württembergische Weingärtner
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Mosel
90% white, 60% Riesling Hills for sun exposure, light reflected from river, dark colored slate Middle Mosel is largest + best: Bernkasteler Doctor, Piesporter Goldtröpfchen, Wehlener Sonnenuhr, Graacher Himmelreich, Ürziger Würzgarten - Pale color, light body, higher acidity, floral - Reputation is for sweet Kabinett/Spätlese/Auslese - Eiswein usually possible - Slate colors (grey, blue, brown, red) make a difference Some flatter sites (near Piesport) for inexpensive Mü-Thu Winninger Uhlen gU 2018 for Roth Lay, Blaufusser Lay, Uhlen Laubach Obermosel limestone for Grau/Weissburgunder and Elbling Weingut Hain, Piesporter Goldtröpfchen (deep clay-like slate) Bernkastel is flinty, Wehlener is shallow slate (finer), Graach is earthier Moselland co-op makes 20% of region's wine (world's largest) Egon Müller, Markus Molitor Major companies: F.W. Langguth (Erben + Blue Nun) Saar and Ruwer valleys also in region, even colder (Scharzhofberg)
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Franken
W-shaped area, S slopes of Main and tributaries - most continental Hazard: spring frost 82% white grapes, Müller-Thurgau + Silvaner Silvaner: Early budding and ripening (spring frost), gets best sites S+SE slopes around town of Würzburg, full bodied, floral + wet stone In west, sandstone terraces for Spätburgunder (Weingut Rudolf Fürst) Würzburger Stein (oldest vineyard) has high fossil content Rudolf Fürst Hundsrück Spatbürgunder GG Bocksbeutel round bottle with short neck, mostly local consumption Horst Sauer, Bürgerspital
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Nahe
Mostly small scatted estates: variety of soils/conditions Hunsrück Mountains protect for mild temps, low rainfall 75% white wines, 30% Riesling - riper fruit than Mosel East: Schlossböckelheim + Bad Kreuznach have warmest, sunlight - steep slopes Slate and sandstone soils Western region harvest a couple weeks later Weingut Dönnhof, Emrich Schönleber Fertile flat soils for Müller-Thurgau Dornfelder most planted black (red grapes not even 1/4) Monzinger Frühlingsplätzchen, Emrich-Schönleber (damp red soils, broad valley) Oberhauser Brücke - monopole of Dönnhoff directly on Nahe River
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Rheingau
Wiesbaden to Lorchhausen, also Hochheim South aspect, protection from northerly winds by Taunus mountains Full body, riper fruit, wider Rhein (1km) - less frost risk, more botrytis Quality production: Rüdesheim, Geisenheim, Johannisberg, Erbach Mid slopes for dry wines (some river influence but no fungal disease) Sand, loam and loss in east (Hochheim), sandstone and slate in west 86% white wines, 78% Riesling: usually dry, but also sweet Spätburgunder near Assmannshausen (S/SW Höllenberg) Schloss Vollrads, Schloss Johannisberg Hochheim in east (deeper sand/loam/loess soil), Hölle vineyard Künstler winery Berg Schlossberg in Rüdesheim (steepest) Soils include slate, quartzite, marl 12% Spätburgunder (Höllenberg in Assmanshausen, Weingut Krone slate soils)
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Ahr
Just a few hundred hectares Narrow sheltered valley, steep south slopes, dark slate and greywacke sandstone 83% black grapes - traditionally sweet and late harvest, now oaky Spätburgunder 3/4 of wines produced by co=ops Mayschoss formed 1868, oldest in world Mayschoss-Altenahr Winzergenossenschaft 65% Pinot Noir (some Frühburgunder) Meyer-Näckel "Blauschiefer" Pinot Noir
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Germany extras
Oechsle limit ranges: in Rheingau, 95-125-150 for Auslese, Beerenauslese, TBA Bereich e.g. Mainviereck in Franken Silvaner can be Grosse Lage in Franken Chardonnay can be Grosse Lage in Baden Scheurebe can be Erste Lage in Pfalz for sweet wines
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Rhone red grapes
Syrah: Vigorous, tying back, mites, botrytis, Syrah decline, reductive Grenache Noir: High yield, short prune, low fertility, coulure, downy, botrytis, blight Mourvèdre: Mites, leafhoppers, sour rot, reductive, drought (calcareous), short prune Cinsaut: Esca, eutypa, chlorosis, mites, grape moths, drought/heat resistant Carignan: Powdery mildew, grape moths, stems firmly attached
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Rhone white grapes
Viognier: Early budding, frost+wind, coulure, rapidly gains sugar (harvest time) Marsanne: Late budding, vigorous, high yield, powdery mildew, mites, botrytis Roussanne: Late budding, wind, coulure, powdery mildew, mites, botrytis Grenache Blanc: Early budding, wind resistant – same hazards as Grenache Noir Clairette: Vigorous (likes dry, low fertility soils): short pruning, upright, oxidation Bourbolenc: Late ripening, loose bunches/thick skins = resistance to botrytis
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Spain Business
Cooperatives still dominate, Martin Codax Also negociants J. García Carríon (Don Simón, Pata Negra) Low consumption (1/2 exports): trend for higher quality DOs Largest exporter (56% in bulk) w/21 million hl, lowest price/l Investment market not picked up like France/Italy France (24%) and Germany (17%) lead exports w/inexpensive wines UK, US and China buy better wines Foods and Wine from Spain is promotional body
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Rioja Environment
NW to SE along Ebro River, 64,000 ha (+50% in 30 years), 3 million hl, warm continental Sierra de Cantabria protects from Atlantic, Sierra de la Demanda blocks central heat Mediterranean influence in east up open Ebro Valley Vintage variation means blending, climate change for higher vineyards Rioja Alta: West of Logroño: continental w/maritime influence Low altitude, alluvial soils, NW is cooler and wetter: calcareous clay Southern area high altitude 700 m w/ferrous clay (Navarrete) Rioja Alavesa: North of Ebro in Basque Country, calcareous clay Basque government subsidizes growers to have winemaking facilities Rioja Oriental: East of Logroño, N+S Ebro: north is low altitude, flat, warm and dry south is 500-1000 m, cooler w/calcareous and ferrous clay
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Winemaking Rhone Cru
Concrete vats for fermentation (or steel/wood), small/large wood for maturation Grenache Noir oxidizes/loses color, while Syrah needs pumping over and oak Cru level: Hand harvest, small crates, destem, chill, 1-3 days cold soak or whole bunches Cultured or ambient yeasts, warm temps for extraction, 20-30 days on skins 12-24 months maturation, 20-30% new – large for G, small for S + M
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Winemaking Rhone Inexpensive/White
Inexpensive: Machine harvest (or hand+carbonic), flash détente/thermovinification Cultured yeast for reliable ferment, mid-range ferment (avoid high extraction) Short maceration times, several months in stainless steel before bottling Rosé: Short maceration (press after 12-48 hours on skins), then fermentation as white Aging in large oak, concrete or steel: saignée but idea is only to make rosé White: Mid-range temps for fruit, MLF avoided, large oak/steel Batonnage avoided because varieties are fuller bodied (but Gripa does it)
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Rioja Grapes
90% black, of which 88% Tempranillo + 8% Garnacha (used to be equal) High-yielding Tempranillo planted in Rioja Oriental (best in higher cool clay sites) Late-budding, late-ripening Viura needs warm and dry sites (70% of whites) Tempranillo Blanco, permitted mutation w/high acidity+lemon/grapefruit Malvasia (flavor) and Garnacha Blanca (acidity) in mid/premium wines Verdejo and Sauvignon Blanc in cheap blends or monovarietal
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Rioja Winemaking
Crianza/Reserva/Gran Reserva require 225 L barriques (mushroom, meat, vanilla) Vinos de autor, unlabeled wine trend 90s: low yields, ripe fruit and French oak Trend: character and quality of grapes w/earlier harvest, gentle extraction, amphora Parcel blending is typical b/c of cooperatives and small holdings Artadi El Pison single-vineyard Tempranillo New French oak introduced by Marqués de Cáceres in 1970 ``` White wines: Viura is more neutral than other varieties premium oaked (now less oxidative), Malvasia used 10% Tondonia med(+)body/acidity, citrus, smoke and nuts – usually good/v. good ```
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Rioja Laws
Previously, sub-zones/villages/vineyards could not be on label Discontent, Artadi leaves 2015, ABRA wants Viñedos de Alava so in 2018: Vino de Zona: Single named sub-zone (15% from adjacent sourced for 10 years) Winemaking, maturation and bottling in zone, allowed on label Vino de Municipio: From municipality (adjacent rule), production as well (in Burgundy, wines from different communes are in same winery) Viñedo Singular: One vineyard/estate, production in winery 10-year ownership, 35-year vineyards, max. yields 20% less, hand harvest Sustainability, pruning, traceability, tasting panel (1x post-ferment, 1x release) 5,000 kg/hectare for reds or 32.5 hl/ha
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Rioja Business
Small plots (50% <1ha, 75%<2ha), 15,000 growers – 40% to co-ops who sell to negociants but also some part under their own brand Some very large producers, with top 10 having 40% of region’s sales, yet 80% have just 12% Producers also typically are merchants w/some vineyards, buying grapes and wine Sales: domestic market steady, export increasing (37%, UK, Germany and USA) In Spain people like Crianza, abroad it’s Reserva and Gran Reserva, cheap wines everywhere White and rosé growing in exports (small base) Rioja prices are high for Spain but low for Europe – small investment market, no super-premium Why so cheap? Cheap grape prices in flat zones, cheap land
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Rioja Organizations
Consejo Regulador: market, PR companies for Rioja tastings (trade/consumers) The message is: Value for money and diversity (tourism manual for wineries) Bodegas Familiares de Rioja advocate for small producers (22,500 l stockholdings) Rioja’n’Roll: first-generation single-vineyard producers for new perspective (Artuke)
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CATALUNYA
Mediterranean w/altitude influence inland, international varieties more common 11 DOs, one DOQ – Vi de Finca for great single-estate wine – min. market time, max. yield CATALUNYA DO: Anywhere in Comunidad (Torres Viña Sol), 2001 This gives: freedom of style/place, recognition on export market (Torres lobbied)
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Penedes DO
From Mediterranean to inland mountains, warm Mediterranean – 500 mm Irrigation permitted for drought stress but authorization required Loamy soil w/calcareous (stores enough water) – trellising common, bush also 80% white: Xarel-lo, Macabeo, Parellada for Cava and still white Others – Chardonnay, Moscatel, Gewurztraminer, Riesling, Sauv Blanc Merlot (most planted black), Cab, Tempranillo, Pinot, Syrah Penedès Marìtim: Sea to coastal hills, warm w/o extremes – full Monastrell Inexpensive local whites Penedès Central: Flat plains (Pre-Coastal Depression) – 500 m cooling Cava grapes, Merlot, Cab, Tempranillo, Chardonnay Penedès Superior: Inland mountains (Montserrat to Montmell), 500-800m (frost) Chardonnay/Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling, Gewurztraminer + Pinot Noir Torres: temp control, clean and fruity – oak for premium reds/Chardonnay Law: 10 sub-zones introduced, to label must be 100% local and organic (Alts d’Ancosa) 30% export: Germany, Canada, Switzerland, China, USA 90% of domestic sales are in Catalunya (Barcelona hub for consumers, tourists)
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Priorat DOQ overview
Warm continental – Serra de Montsant + Serra de Llaberia, 500-600 mm rain High diurnal range, cold winters – irrigation permitted for dry years + new vines 2,000 ha (less than pre-phylloxera) – Carthusian monks Scala Dei 12th century Difficult access, topography challenging 1989: Clos Mogador, Erasmus (Garnacha+Syrah), Dofí Siurana River valley, 100-750 m slops, llicorella quartz slopes (costers) 5-60 gradient Narrow terraces: reduce erosion, retain water – manual labor Llicorella reflects light, poor nutrients, some clay, slate bedrock allows roots Max. yield 39 hl/ha, averages only 5-6 hl/ha Garnacha + Cariñena are 2/3 of black plantings together – Cariñena harsh + warm Bordeaux grapes/Syrah popularity falling, 6% white (Garnacha Blanca, Macabeo)
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Priorat Winemaking
Traditional old basket press, large oak vats for fermentation Modern: stainless steel, optical sorting machines Cultured yeast typical (high alcohol means wild yeast struggle) 1-2 years of French oak common, high alcohol and med(+) acidity
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Priorat Law
Law: Vi de Vila – One of 12 sub-zones, named plus ‘Vi de Vila’ - Poboleda Vi de Paratge ¬-¬¬ Like lieu-dit, 459 sites, terrain/geology/climate (La Baixada Palacios) Vinya Classificada – Cru, single vineyard of high quality (Clos Mogador) Gran Vinya Classificada ¬ - Grand cru, single vineyard owned or rented 7 years Min. 90% Garnacha+Cariñena, yield, 35 vine age, ‘recognition brand 5 years’ 60% G+C for other categories ‘Old vines’ for 75 years old or planted before 1945
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Spain Law
DO (PDO) = 70 in Spain, DOCa just Rioja/Priorat (eligible after DO for 10 years) estate bottled, 10 years, quality restrictions, external tasting assessment and audit Vino de Pago: estate wines, Castilla La Mancha (Dominio de Valdepusa) Rules: must be own grapes, vinified/matured on estate (in PDO category) Vino de la Tierra: PGI wines Consejo Regulador: sets yield, variety, irrigation, winemaking, packaging DOCa and most Dos bottle in region (La Mancha can be bulk)
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Spain Winemaking
Barrels max. 330 L for national labeling Aging labels criticism: too specific, not specific enough -No quality requirements, age/origin of oak, and only min. age (might be more) Why not use terms? Larger barrels, less than min. time, or no marketing benefit Common in Ribera del Duero + Rioja, less common in Bierzo + Priorat Roble for some oak, joven for no/little oak Rosado classically deep, now trend for pale increasing (Provence) – legally allowed
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Spain History
Mid-19th exile of Marques de Murrieta and Marques de Riscal to Bordeaux Phylloxera hits France, wineries founded in Haro (railroad) as substitute Spain then hit in early 20th century, production falls Rioja Wine Exporters’ Syndicate founded 1907 for authenticity Rioja has first Consejo Regulador in 1926 Under Franco, mainly high-volume cooperatives Miguel Torres studies in France, plants French/German varieties: trellising/temp control Accession to EU: investment, tanks, temp. control Irrigation legalized in 1996: production levels increase greatly Research, investment, education and travel to other countries (Erasmus) Trends: indigenous grapes, traditional techniques, restoring abandoned vineyards
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Montsant
Ring around Priorat, mostly south in flatter lower Ebro, more Mediterranean Shelter of Serra de Llaberia (less extreme), north has 300-700 m and cool temps Limestone (Ulldemolins) in north/east, clay sand, some llicorella in south (granite Falset) Work is easier, yields higher, soils more fertile than Priorat: trellis for machine, also bush 2/3 Garnacha and Cariñena, then Tempranillo, Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet – blends typical Celler de Capçanes – La Nit de les Garnatxes soil line – Clay, Limestone, Slate Majority co-ops, cheaper land producers from Priorat, 45% export: Germany, US, France, Switzerland, UK
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Costers del Segre
Continental, low rainfall (400mm), 7 non-contiguous zones, 1988 4,000 ha (1/2 Raimat of Raventós/Codorníu in early 1900s) – Raimat, Pallars in Pyrenees Area had saline soils (irrigation channels installed), Raimat launched 1978 200-700m, Cava at altitude, black grapes lower Soils are sandy, free-draining, irrigation necessary Many grapes: cava, chardonnay, garnacha blanca, sauvignon Garnacha, tempranillo, cab sauvignon, merlot – blends common for easy drinking 40 wineries, Castell d’Encus – Quest Bordeaux, Ekam Riesling/Albariño Sustainability program has 40% of wineries, 70% of production (S.E.E.)
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Rias Baixas
Moderate maritime, 1,700 mm rain throughout year Soils: sandy over granite bedrock, free-draining Parral trellises w/granite supports (humidity), crops grown under After Phylloxera: hybrids+Palomino, tiny plots Then indigenous grape incentives in 70s and 80s, now: 4,000 ha, >5,000 growers, 170 wineries, 250,000 hl/year (growth) Albariño 95% of production, thick skin (resistance)+early-mid ripening, med body Loureira: Early ripening, med(+) acidity, herbal note w/citrus, floral Treixadura: Mid-ripening, low acidity, apple/peach Caiño Blanco: Late-ripening, high acidity, citrus Sousón (Vinhão), smaller-berried in Spain and Caiño Tinto – 1% Zones: Val do Salnés on coast, coldest+oldest+largest O Rosal on Miño near Atlantic, Condado do Tea inland, warm easy drinking Ribeira do Ulla newest (inex), Soutomaior smallest Winemaking: protective, few hours skin contact for flavor/texture, at least partial MLF Sobre lias: 1 to 2 years for premium, no battonage (oxygen) Oak fermentation (1583 Fefiñanes) Business: ¼ exports, increasing: USA + UK, good/v. good, mid/premium
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Ribeiro
East of Rias Baixas, more sheltered, mostly white wines Treixadura most planted, monovarietal or blends Oak fermentation/maturation for premium wines
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Ribeira Sacra
River Miño/River Sil valley – warm continental, maritime influence Highly steep w/different altitudes and stony slopes for drainage/heat Mencia: med body+tannins, med(+) acidity, cherry/raspberry Dominio do Bibei, Lacima (Mencía w/Brancellao)
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Valdeorras
East on River Sil, warm continental, 700-1000 mm rain Altitudes at 300 m, varied soils including slate and granite Godello, good/v. good, premium in oak– some Mencia but minor
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Monterrei
On Portuguese border, Sierra da Larouca to west – low rainfall, continental Riper Mencia, fruity Godello – inexpensive bulk and some good wine Quinta de Muradella: Alanda Tinto (Mencia/Bastardo/Garnacha)
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Bierzo
Álvaro Palacios and Ricardo Pérez attracted to slate slopes in late 90s Contintental (warmer summers), open on west for maritime influence Vintage variation high, 75% Mencia (early/mid-ripening, loses acidity) Red wines must be min. 70% Mencía, Alicante Bouschet rest (only 2% of plantings) Zones: 1) Fertile flat plains of silty loam, med(-)body/tannin w/red fruit (good/mid) 2) Well-draining slate slopes, 500-850 m (limit vigor) (v.good/out, mid/prem) Bush vines (80% older than 60) – low yields and high production cost Careful use of oak, Descendientes de J. Palacios + Raul Pérez (75 wineries total) 3,000 ha – 2,000 growers – 100,000 hl – half of growers work with coops Village/vineyard classifications 2017, Merenzao allowed 2019 (yield ~20% less) J. Palacios Villa de Corullón, 60-100 year vines at 600-1000 m San Juan de Paluezas village has limestone Estaladiña and Merenzao now authorized, Garnacha Tintorera can be varietal
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Toro
Duero River, warm continental w/altitude 620-750 m, sandy soils, spring frost Tinta de Toro – adapted form of Tempranillo (separate variety?), thicker skins Reds min. 75% Tinta de Toro, rest Garnacha Rosé from TT+G, white from Verdejo+Malvasía also No irrigation between June+harvest Low density bush vines (max. 2700/ha), 1/5 older than 50 Full body, high alcohol, med(+)/high tannin, blackberry/blueberry West has cooler sites at higher altitude (or north aspects) Consejo Regulador says alc. Max is 15%, Tinto Roble if blended w/Garnacha Carbonic maceration for cheap, French+American oak premium, Numanthia LVMH Remote from cities/ports (challenge), investors coming from R del D (cheap land) About 50 wineries, 96,000 hl of wine, acc./good and good/outstanding
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Ribera del Duero
Slightly hotter than Toro+Rueda, 750-1000m, high cool east Spring/fall frost shortens season: heaters, spray vines, helicopters Low rain of 400-600 mm, irrigation out of growing season, sand/clay/limestone Tinto Fino/Tinta del País – different sites for balance/complexity/consistency ½ bush vines, ¼ older than 50 – holdings less than 1 ha, trellises common Winemaking: whites allowed 2019, Albillo Mayor 75% (Dominio del Pidio) Reds 75% Tinto Fino, w/Cab Sauvignon, Merlot, Malbec, Garnacha, Albillo 100% Tempranillo w/50-100% new French oak: full body, ripe blackberry/plum Trend for less extraction, less maceration after fermentation (Pingus uses 20,000 l vats, plan is for 50% oak) La Horra, Barroso Atauta village in high east has old vines Crianza most common, Gran Reserva rare, most wine has no age category 600,000-700,000 hl, 20% export: Switzerland, Mexico, US, Germany, China Good to outstanding, mid-priced to premium
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Rueda
Warm continental, low rainfall, 700-800 m altitude Used to be oxidative fortified wine until Marques de Riscal invested, 1970s (Petaluma) Limestone bedrock, sandy clay w/topsoil of stone/sand (free-draining, low organic) Verdejo: drought tolerant, med/med(+) acidity, apple/peach/fennel Sauvignon Blanc: blend or monovarietal, 85% for varietal labeling (100% common) VSP trellising, night harvest, old bush vines 10% of planting Protective steel, cultured yeasts (promote esters) – lees w/stirring for months to year Some oak-fermented very good Blends labeled as DO Rueda (Often DO Rueda-Verdejo), red and rosé Tempranillo Quality good-very good, Ossian, Lurton – José Pariente Cuvée Especial clay cement eggs
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Castilla y Leon VT
On meseta, protection from Atlantic – continental | Many varieties, producers outside DOs or with different style – only 9,000 ha
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Valencia DO
500,000 hl/year, 2 separate zones Local coops, easy drinking, acc./good and inexpensive Smaller producers for good/v. good and mid-priced 450 mm, irrigation common, Turia River Valley, sea breezes Alto Turia: Sistema Ibérico foothills, 700-1100 m, almost all white wine Moscatel de Alejandría + Merseguera (mid budding, mid-late ripening) Merseguera is low intensity, bitter almond when vigorous Valentino: Warmer, 200-650 m, sea breezes Garnacha Tintorera, Tempranillo, Cab Sauvignon, Monastrell, Merseguera Clariano: South of Valencia, separate zone – similar to Valentino Moscatel de Valencia: south of Turia/Valentino, sweet or vino de licor
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Utiel-Requena DO
34,000 ha, borders La Mancha, 750 m – 87% black Bobal more than 70% of plantings, many older than 40 years Mid-late budding and ripening, drought tolerant, high yield Retains acidity, vigorous (short pruning), powdery mildew+botrytis Uneven ripening makes grippy/firm tannins, acc/v. good + inex/mid Deep color: blending in inexpensive, unconcentrated wines Started out as rosé b/c of fruit and high acidity Med(+)tannins/body, blackberry, black cherry, chocolate
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Alicante DO
9,000 ha, smallest (some Jumilla and Yecla grapes can use label) Warm Mediterranean climate, very dry (250 mm rain) – good/v. good, mid priced Monastrell 75% planted: late ripening, drought tolerant – mites, leafhoppers, sour rot Vinalopó sub-zone is production center – from coast to 500 m Sierra de Salinas (A.M.B.) Monastrell dominates here Marina Alta coastal zone: humid breezes, 500 mm rain (double rest) Moscatel de Alejandría, dry and sweet Alicante DO rules: min. 80% Monastrell, then Garnacha Tintorera, Garnacha and Bobal Usually full-bodied, dry, matured in American oak Fondillón is unfortified sweet wine, min. 16% ABV, max. 40 g/l (medium sweet) Late harvest Monastrell possible due to dry climate Min. 10 years in oak (v. large 1,200 l typical) Can be añada or solera (oxidized, dried fruit and nuts)
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Jumilla DO
25,000 ha, altitude 400-800 m, rainfall 250-300 mm Plains/valleys between Alicante and La Mancha, warm continental Monastrell 80% of plantings, historically inexpensive production Phylloxera outbreak 1989: replanting and focus on quality Higher-quality clones (369), vineyard management Winemaking methods (earlier harvest/cool fermentation) Full body, high alcohol, ripe blackberry/cherry, spice – med(+) acidity if good Also permitted: Cencibel, Garnacha, Garnacha Tintorera, Cab/Merlot/Syrah/Petit V These are blended to lower tannins Rosés made from Monastrell, and some white wine 2,000 growers, 40 wineries: Bodegas El Nido, Casa Castillo Majority exported (70%), USA is major market
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Yecla DO
6,000 ha, altitude 500-900 m, rainfall 300 mm, more Mediterranean Soils are sand and limestone, one co-op La Purisima 60% of production, 95% exported Good to v. good, inexpensive to mid-priced
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Castilla La Mancha
Land-locked meseta, hot continental climate LA MANCHA: 158,000 ha (largest DO in Europe), 500-750 m meseta, low 300-400 mm Limestone+chalk soil retain water, drip irrigation 40% Bush vines 1,000/ha, trellised 3,000/ha Airen 90,000 ha for neutral white, Brandy de Jerez Cencibel: fruity wines, short oak contact (or aging labels) 15,000 growers, 250 wineries, majority are co-ops – Vino de Pago Casa de Blanco Virgen de las Viñas: Spain’s largest co-op w/20,000 ha and 2,000 members 40% exported, bulk and bottle – Bottled exports to China growing, largest market 5 years Germany, Russia and Netherlands are also markets VALDEPEÑAS: South of La Mancha, hot/dry: fruity, soft Cencibel: good, inexpensive VINO DE PAGO: Half of 18 in Spain are here: first Dominio de Valdepusa (Cab Sauvignon) CASTILLA VT: Large area, similar climate, more grapes – inexpensive to mid-priced
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CARIÑENA/CAMPO DE BORJA/CALATAYUD DO
Warm continental, rain 450-500 mm – high-altitude plateaus, cold cierzo north wind Campo de Borja: 350-700 m, Cariñena: 400-800 m, Calatayud: 500-900 m Old Garnacha, mainly reds, rocky free-draining soils, spring frost, low pest pressure Bush vines, low densities, Carignan being revived w/choice clones High alcohol, med-full body, med tannins Premium: quality of fruit, limited large oak: raspberry, plums, med(+)acidity/alcohol Borsao co-op, 300 members in Campo de Borja
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Somantano DO
Warm continental, Pyrenees foothill: more rain and more evenly spread out 350-650 m, diurnal range + breezes from Pyrenees Cabernet Sauvignon + Chardonnay, also Gewurztraminer Viñas del Vero: largest producer, created by bank and owned by Gonzalez Byass Mid-priced, good/very good wines: competition from same varieties Bodega Pirineos reviving indigenous varieties: Moristel
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Navarra DO
: 11,000 ha – Mediterranean, Atlantic and Pyrenees influence Five sub-regions: Tierra Estella, Valdizarbe, Baja Montaña, Ribera Alta, Ribera Baja North is cooler and wetter, slopes (protection from Atlantic) South is flatter, warmer and drier – Viña Zorzal in Ribera Baja, 100% Graciano Deep-colored Garnacha rosé, then govt. funds program for Tempranillo in 70s 1980s: international grapes allowed: Cab Sauvignon, Merlot, Chardonnay Tempranillo monovarietal (most-planted), Cab and Merlot w/Tempranillo/Garnacha Aging categories are common French oak for Bordeaux grapes, American oak for Tempranillo Chardonnay for whites: med/med(+) acidity, citrus and peach, oaked/unoaked Moscatel de Grano Menudo, Sauvignon Blanc, Viura and Malvasia too Is diversity a bonus? Should region focus on old bush garnacha (med+acidity in north) Short skin maceration required for Navarra DO rosé, medium to deep color Fermentation in steel, quick bottling: good/very good, inexpensive to mid-priced Small holdings, growers sell to coops, producers include Lupier and Chivite
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Basque Country
Txakoli Getriako, Bizkaiko, Arabako: moderate maritime, 1600mm/year (canopy ventilation, VSP are key) Hondarrabi zuri white: high acidity, med(-)body, low alcohol, fresh apple/pear All styles, lees/oak/bottle aging, hondarrabi beltza for reds Gorka Izagirre 42 Zura, Hondarrabi Zerratia oak fermented
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Sierra de Gredos
Mountains west of Madrid without own DO: Vinos de Madrid DO, Mentrida DO, Cebreros DO or Castilla y León VT (Bruja de Rozas is Vinos de Madrid) Quality from old-vine Grenache, 600-1200 m – continental, altitude for diurnal range Lighter tannin, med(+)acidity, fresh fruit (style different than Aragon) Sunny days can lead to high alcohol Low intervention style, ambient yeast and low SO2 Albillo Real whites, floral and citrus, med/med(+) acidity, oak and skins Good/v. good quality, mid-premium price
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Balearic Islands
95 km off coast, Mallorca has two DOs, others have VTs Manto Negro (light color, high alc., red fruit)+Callet (med/med(+) acidity, med alc.) Monastrell, Tempranillo, Malvasia, international varieties in blends Binissalem DO, Pla I Llevant DO (Manto Negro in Binissalem), 4 Kilos 100% Callet
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Canary Islands
500 km south of Madeira, 28 N latitude: hot and tropical Mountains w/vineyards up to 1,500 m for diurnal range and cooler days Rough terrain means mechanization is impossible No grafting needed, absence of phylloxera and sandy soils Variety of aspects/altitudes allow for many grapes Each island has its own DO (La Gomera, El Hierro etc.), Tenerife has 5 Listan Negro, Malvasía, Listan Blanco (Palomino), Marmajuelo, Negramoll Listan Negro: light/med color, med tannin, raspberry and plum (carbonic common) Valle de Orotava DO on Tenerife: vines twisted in ropes, trained on low wires up hills Lanzarote: flat land w/volcanic ash cover, vines underground w/stone walls Protection and moisture, low density and low yield: Malvasia dry/sweet “hoyos”, El Grifo Malvasía Volcánica, Lías Envinate Migan, Orotava Valle de Güímar Calima wind from Sahara Lack of winter dormancy
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Côte Rotie AOC
Only red, single/double Guyot + échalas – 250 ha (had shrunk) Manual labor, erosion (terraced stony slopes, poor nutrients): terrace repair Guigal w/ La Mouline/La Landonne – v. good/outstanding, prem/super premium Up to 20% Viognier, Syrah w/massal selection 3309: productive, color depth 10,000 vines/ha, 40 hl/ha – cofermentation, destemming + cold soak (stems increase) Natural yeast (terroir), MLF in cask, either 225 l (Guigal) or demi-muid 500-600 l
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Condrieu AOC
100% Viognier, max. 41 hl/ha (S facing bend), 200 ha – acidic arzelle CHATEAU-GRILLET AOC: 3.5 ha, started in 1830s, fashion returned 1980s Stainless steel or large wood fermentation, MLF typical: 10-12 months lees w/writing
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St. Joseph AOC
30 mile long, expanded 1994: lieu-dit opposite Tain L’Hermitage Debate: limit AOC only to hillsides for quality? Jean-Louis Chave, Domaine Gonon 90% red wine, 40 hl/ha, up to 10% M/R but not common, stainless steel/large oak
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Hermitage AOC
137 ha, named after Gaspard de Stérimberg: 1/3 white -15% Tain Erosion, terracing+manual work, south slope, thin and stony soils Western end of hill has famous climats, e.g. Le Méal 12-18 months oak (med/large), some new, some stems in warm vintage Whites: Marsanne, some Roussanne: maturation w/small new part Chapoutier focuses on individual parcels, Chave is blending
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Crozes-Hermitage AOC
1,700 ha – north Alpine influences, mistral – extended 1956 45 hl/ha yield, machines on flatter land, typically medium tannins Premium: Jaboulet Domaine de Thalabert Whites 9% (more Marsanne), good/very good and mid/premium
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CORNAS AOC
South and east amphitheater, first Syrah harvested: 100% Syrah Auguste Clape, Thierry Allemand
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SAINT-PÉRAY AOC
Limestone and granite, white wine: Marsanne majority, 45 hl/ha Some sparkling
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Collines Rhodaniennes IGP
red, white and rosé outside AOC: 80 hl/ha, other rule
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Côtes du Rhone AOC
Southern Rhone: Warm Mediterranean, drought increasing (irrigation if severe) Bush vines as fewer slopes to protect from mistral – Grenache-dominated 51 hl/ha – GSM min 60%, Grenache min. 30%, SM min. 20% Whites: 6 varieties 80%, permitted = Piquepoul Blanc Côtes du Rhone Villages AOC: 44 hl/ha, 66% 2 out of 3 main including Grenache Côtes du Rhone Villages Séguret AOC: 41 hl/ha Style: medium red plum/blackberry, med acidity/tannins/alcohol, good + inexpensive
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Southern Rhone Satellites
Gigondas AOC: up to 600 m, Dentelles de Montmirail shade, cooling Mistral 50% Grenache, either Syrah or Mourvedre, good/v. good, mid-premium Vacqueyras AOC: 1990, lower at 440 m, diurnal range (white+rosé), same rules Vinsobres AOC: 2006 – only red, same rules – S/SE 200-500 m – older C+C – Les Cornuds Rasteau AOC: 2010 for red wine, same rules – low 100 m slopes enclave, ripest Cairanne AOC: 2015, lacks slopes and warmth: fruity, approachable, 40% Grenache Beaumes-de-Venise: 2005 – red wine, Dentelles shading, Grenache+Syrah 50 Lirac AOC: Across river, mostly red, some rosé+white: GSM + Cinsaut 90% Infertile soils and lots of sun, businesses like Mordorée w/holdings in other AOCs Tavel: Only rosé blend w/12 varieties, none more than 60% - 46 hl/ha Med(+)/full body, medium pink-orange
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Chateauneuf-du-Pape
Baron Roy Chateau Fortia 1923 – 1936 (13/18 varieties) 90% red wines, 12.5% ABV min – Marsanne and Viognier not permitted Mourvedre growing in popular, needs moisture-retaining soils Hand harvest, 3000 ha of limestone, clay, sandstone, sandy – low fertility Style: red plum/blackberry, spice, med acidity, high alcohol and range of tannins 5 soils: galet (power), shingle clay (tannin), sandstone (acidity), loess (fruit), red sandstone (black fruit/leather)
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Other Rhone Satellites
Ventoux: South and west slopes of Mont Ventoux, 450 m: 2/3 red, 1/3 rosé – 60 hl/ha GSM, C+C = 50%, at least 2, ¼ exported and co-ops key, new ones like Fondrèche Costières de Nimes AOC: SW Rhone on SW slopes, GSM 50%, move to estates Luberon: SE Rhone, borders Provence: gentle slopes/flat, GSM 50% at least 2, 55 hl/ha Grignan-les-Adhémar: 50% Grenache+Syrah, lighter style, white and rosé (north) IGP: in Gard IGP, Merlot 3rd most, Cabernet Sauvignon
399
Bordeaux Overview
Gironde estuary, Dordogne to north/Garonne to south Plantings: 110,000 ha - 70% inexpensive or mid-priced 90% black grapes Among AOC wines: 85% red, 10% white, 1% sweet, 4% rosé Merlot 60%, Cabernet Sauvignon 20% (3x), Cabernet Franc less than 10%
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Bordeaux History
Médoc drained in 17th/18th century, Lafite and Margaux gain reputation Historically, Bordeaux has been a key export center (Bergerac wines) Foreign merchants exported wine - this system continues 1855 Classification: Exposition Universelle de Paris - Based on price - Médoc+ Haut Brion classed into five levels, Sauternes into 3
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Bordeaux Environment
CLIMATE: moderate maritime, 950 mm w/variation - Rain at veraison: unripe fruit, fungal diseases - Médoc estates close to Gironde are prestigious (frost protection) - 2017, 2/3 of 10-year average production SOIL Gravel on Left Bank - mounds (croupes) highest in Margaux at 32 m - Floodwaters from Pyrenees and Massif Central Well-draining soils cause drought stress (Pomerol 2016)
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Bordeaux Grapes
Merlot Early budding, mid-ripening (harvest before rain) Prone to: coulure, drought, botrytis (sorting needed) Fully ripens in cool years Large berries, higher sugar (ABV) than cabernets: global warming disadvantage Style: strawberry, red plum, herbaceous when cool, to blackberry, black plum Cabernet Sauvignon Late budding, late ripening Small berries, thick skins, high tannins Prone to: powdery mildew, esca and eutypa Style: blackcurrant, menthol, medium alcohol, high acidity and tannins Colder vintages = blending with Merlot/Cabernet Franc Cabernet Franc Red fruit, high acidity, and medium tannins Petit Verdot Early budding, later ripening than Cab. Sauvignon Prone to: spring frost, failure to ripen, harvest rain Warm areas (less than 5% of blend) Style: spicy and high tannin Sémillon Mid-ripening, susceptible to botrytis, high yielding Low intensity lemon/grass flavors, medium/medium(+) acidity, medium body Adds body, softens Sauvignon Blanc's high acidity and intensity Affinity for new French oak spice/vanilla Honey, dried fruit, wax Best Sauternes have more Sémillon (Ch. d'Yquem) Sauvignon Blanc Grassy, gooseberry, high acidity - used for dry and sweet blends Trend of monovarietal Muscadelle Prone to: botrytis, plant on well-exposed sites Flowery and grapy notes in sweet white
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Bordeaux Vineyard
10,000 vines/hectare: infertile soils, moderate vigor (basic Bordeaux just 3,000) Density is good for expensive vineyard land Cost of plants and trellises, over-row tractors Training: head trained, cane pruned: Left Bank is Double Guyot, Right Bank is Single Guyot Remove leaves in summer, soft pruning on young wood, leaving old wood to dry and maximize sap flow Flavescence dorée: insecticides (not compatible with organic/biodynamic) Leaf removal later in season is less risky (aeration w/o sunburn) Green harvest allowed 20 years ago, less popular b/c dilution Avg. yield 50 hl/ha, super low yields on right bank caused jammy wines without terroir Harvest used to be random, now more scheduled, hired for longer period Northern Medoc - machine harvesting b/c vineyards are too far away from city Machines also used for fungal pressure Top estates might not sort in winery b/c of sorting in vineyard Harvest plot by plot: single lot wines (smaller vessels, higher cost)
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Bordeaux Winemaking Reds
Fermentation in closed vats, pumping over is typical + cultured yeast Temperature control, wood + steel + concrete Simple wines: mid range temp, 5-7 days post-fermentation Quality wines: mid-high, 14-30 days post fermentation Shorter maceration times in poor vintages Pneumatic/hydraulic presses for gentle extraction, press wine and free run into 225-liter barriques Inoculation for rapid MLF (en primeur tasting in spring) Simple wines: 4-6 months in concrete or stainless steel Quality wines have a mix of new and old oak, some 100% new oak - 18-24 months Cooperages: range of cooperages for complexity, toast level medium/medium(+) Racking every 3 months (micro-oxygenation also) Winter blending more common, though a few estates blend several months before bottling Micro-oxygenation: structuring phase 1-3 months (more oxygen), then harmonisation phase (0.1-10 ml of oxygen per liter per month) Oak fermented wines taste less oaky (flavors bind with yeast)
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Bordeaux Winemaking Rosé/White
Traditional Claret, lighter-colored rosé: from Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon Saignée, younger vines, or short maceration - lighter rosé is direct pressed White: Direct pressing or 24 hours skin contact, cool fermentation for inexpensive Mid-priced wines: 6-12 months on lees Quality wines: barrique ferment and aging, new oak (MLF blocked) Batonnage in decline (too much body) Dubourdieu + Lurton: modern style, Sauvignon Blanc, less oak
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Bordeaux Winemaking Sweet
``` Low yields (1/3 still wines, for high sugar): leave few buds, remove diseased fruit (less than 10 hl/ha common) Harvesters have to differentiate black rot from botrytis, period from September to November How much botrytis? weather conditions, position of estate, wait and risk ``` Ferment is like dry white wine, 18-36 months in barrel for top wines New oak: 30 to 50%, up to 100% at Ch. d'Yquem
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Bordeaux Appellations
In general: AOCs list permitted varieties w/o required proportions (tradition dominates) Bordeaux AOC 67 hl/ha, 65 hl/ha, 62 hl/ha Bordeaux Supérieur AOC 59 hl/ha Together: 50% of all Bordeaux wine, mostly Merlot (high acidity, medium(+) tannins) Whites made from Sauvignon Blanc, high acidity
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Médoc + Haut Médoc AOC
Red wine only, max. yield 55 hl/ha Sale mid-June year after harvest Médoc in north end, 50/50 Merlot/Cabernet Sauvignon Haut-Médoc near Bordeaux town, gravelly 50% Cab, 44% Merlot Chateau Belle-Vue south of Margaux (Cru Bourgeois Exceptionel) uses 20% Petit Verdot
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Saint-Estèphe AOC
- Northernmost, coolest (Atlantic): 40% Merlot on clay soils away from Gironde - 50% Cabernet Sauvignon on gravel near estuary - Rustic style, some softer wines - Water-retention is advantage w/climate change - No First Growths, but 2nd growths and Cru Bourgeois Second growth: Cos d'Estournel (2nd wine Pagodes de Cos), Chateau Montrose (60% new oak) Third growth: Calon Segur
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Pauillac AOC
- 62% Cabernet Sauvignon (high), gravel banks near estuary - Top estates have 70-80% Cab. S (longevity, concentration) - Structure, high tannin and acidity - Three of five first growths, 85% cru classé (highest of big 4) Chateau Lafite 100% new oak, 80-95% Cabernet Sauvignon
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Saint-Julien AOC
- Homogeneous gravel, style between Pauillac and Margaux - Five second growths - Lots of Cabernet Sauvignon and cru classé 2nd growth Ducru-Beaucaillou
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Margaux AOC
- Less Cab and more Merlot, earlier ripening (7-10 earlier harvest than northern Médoc) - Clay seams in gravel soil require drainage (investment) - Perfumed wines, silky tannins Chateau Margaux uses 100% new oak Pavillon Blanc 100% Sauvignon Blanc, sold as Bordeaux
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Listrac-Médoc AOC/Moulis AOC
- Further from river (less moderating influence, less gravel) - Earlier release date for consumption, otherwise same rules - Good/very good, mid-priced to premium
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Graves
Graves AOC yields: white 58 hl/ha, red 55 hl/ha (85% is red) Generally acceptable/good, inexpensive/mid-priced Graves Supérieures AOC botrytis/late harvest sweet wine, 40 hl/ha
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Pessac-Léognan AOC
- Sub-region of Graves, gravel soil and moderating Garonne - 80% red/20% white, known for oak-aged whites (best in Bordeaux) - Yield 54 hl/ha for red and white - Whites are Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon blend: medium(+) body, medium(+)/high acidity - Red wines similar to four Médoc communes (Haut Brion)
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Entre-Deux-Mers
2nd largest appellation, only white, yield 65 hl/ha: acceptable to good
417
Saint-Émilion+Saint-Émilion Grand Cru AOC
Small estates (1 ha), Merlot dominant (clay soil), Cabernet Franc, Cab Sauvignon Yields 53 hl/ha and 46 hl/ha respectively, maturation 6 months and 20 months 60% Merlot, Cabernet Franc is next grown Range of quality, classification system Top wines are red+black plum, vanilla and clove, full body, high alcohol, medium(+) to high acidity/tannin Grand Cru needs 0.5% ABV more (this is always achieved) Classification must weights for Grand Cru exclude Merlot Cheval Blanc 1947 - 2/3 Cabernet Franc (known as Bouchet)
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Saint-Emilion Satellites
Close to Saint-Émilion, further from river, same rules Montagne Saint-Émilion AOC and Lussac Saint-Émilion AOC are largest Saint-George is smallest satellite but highest elevation (90m) Montagne-Saint-Emilion has 1,550 ha (largest satellite)
419
Pomerol AOC
Small appellation for reds, 80% Merlot, then Cabernet Franc (style like Saint-Émilion) Max. yield 49 hl/ha No qualification system, but many top estates w/premium wines Petrus has less than 12 ha (left bank estates have 80-100 ha) - high prices Petrus is 100% Merlot (12 ha), 50% new oak Lalande-de Pomerol AOC Satellite, higher yields
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Côtes de Bordeaux
Created in 2009 on right bank: Blaye Cotês de Bordeaux, Cadillac, Castillon and Francs Red yields: 55 hl/ha, 52 hl/ha if commune is added Côtes de Bourg AOC Similar to CdB but not under same system Merlot-dominant, similar to Médoc AOC Malbec has 10% of hectares, highest in Bordeaux
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Sauternes and Barsac AOC
Sweet, botrytis: Sémillon (80% of plantings), Sauvignon Blanc and Muscadelle Cold Ciron meets warm Garonne (morning mists that burn off) Sauternes is largest sweet AOC (50% of production), Barsac can also use Sauternes name Max. yields just 25 hl/ha (much lower in reality for full ripeness before noble rot) Citrus peel, honey, mango and vanilla: full bodied, high alcohol, medium/medium(+) acidity, sweet Lack of demand for sweet wines: producers making dry wines Sainte-Croix-du-Mont AOC and Loupiac AOC (40 hl/ha) Premières Côtes de Bordeaux AOC (45 hl/ha) Can be botrytized or late harvest - good to very good quality
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1855 Grand Cru Classé
- Based on prices of Médoc + Ch. Haut-Brion, as well as Sauternes - First to Fifth Growth for Médoc, First and Second for Sauternes - Chateau d'Yquem is Premier Cru Supérieur - Basically unaltered (Mouton Rothschild added in 1973) - 1/4 of Bordeaux wine is cru classé - Estate bottling is required (common even for non-cru wineries) - 60 leading properties Haut-Brion has deep gravel, Margaux has limestone, Lafite has stony clay
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Graves Classification
- 1959: based on price, fame, tasting quality - 16 chateau for red/white or both, all in Pessac Léognan - No sub-divisions, can be red or white - Needs to be revised but producers don't want dispute like in Saint-Émilion
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Saint-Émilion Classification
- Only applies to wines in Saint-Émilion Grand Cru AOC - Started in 1955, revised every 10 years (last in 2012) - Criteria: terroir, production methods, reputation, commercial factors, blind tasting of min. 10 vintages - Tiers: Premier Grand Cru A, Premier Grand Cru B, Grand Cru Classé
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Cru Bourgeois du Médoc
- 1932: quality but below cru classé - 2010: awarded individually to individual wines in assessment (methods+product) - 2018: Cru Bourgeois, CB Supérieur, CB Exceptionnel (5 years)
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Bordeaux Business
7,000 estates (chateaux), number dropping (larger volume production) Avg. size 19 hectares, 800 million bottles 1/4 production is co-ops from 40% of grapes Cost of classed growth: - Land cost and bank loans, harvest cost, viticulture - Vine density, lower yield, grape selection+barrel aging(cost of barrels+time) Selling wines: 100-point rating system is key now 4 billion euros, half France half export (44% by volume, 52% value) Half in supermarket, 5.80 euros
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La Place de Bordeaux
Direct sales uncommon, instead: Wine sold to négociant (collectively la négoce, 70% of wine), who sells it to wholesalers and retailers Broker (courtier) manages the producer-négociant relationship Négociants sell to distributors (import/wholesale/retail): 15% of sales price Courtier makes 2% typically Large number of export countries mean many négociants (up to 40) Allocation system determines number of cases received by négociant (percentage) Bordeaux and Bordeaux Supérieur sold for close to 1 euro bulk (low demand in France, competition from Chile, Australia) - sold in supermarkets Who makes cheap wine? Co-ops, small producers, grapes sold to large companies (Castel)
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En Primeur
High quality and classed growths: futures, wine sold before it is bottled (year to 18 months) Sold in spring after harvest - customers pay lower price than in specialist wine store - producers get cash flow, early payment Arose after WWII, chateaux struggling: popular after 1970, 1982 vintage April after harvest 1. estates give samples to buyers/journalists (5000-6000 tasters) 2. estates release prices in May/June 3. first tranche put up for sale via negociant, based on reputation and reviews 4. price adjusted for next tranches based on market 5. price typically rises in subsequent tranches 6. trade buyers decide which wines and quantities, critics publish reviews 7. fine wine merchants have en primeur offers for end customers 8. top wines on allocation: négociants and trade buyers locked in even for poor vintage 9. négociants stuck w/wines if there is little to sell or prices for vintage are too high Process lasts several months Success factors: quality, asking price and market - Overly high prices mean excess stock to store - Market fluctuation - avg. vintage after multiple excellent years, prices lower - If producers do not reduce price, wine may not be sold En primeur price includes delivery to retailer's storage 'ex cellar' - buyer must pay taxes in home market Wine held in storage unit (temp. and humidity) Buyer's options? Delivery, storage until drinkable, sell forward (price rises) Secondary market is dominated by Bordeaux
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En primeur pros and cons
Debate: in 2000s, en primeur rose (China helped) - high prices even in poor 2011 vintage Prices then fell Critics also criticize their own influence - they are tasting unfinished wine Chateau Latour no longer sells wine en primeur (2012), others reduced volume Smaller chateaux need the money Estate pro: Estates can test market (lower-priced 1st tranche) Early money, investment return for next vintage Lower price than bottled wine Estate con: Negociants might lose money or handle the business poorly, lowering estate's reputation Customer pro: Customer gets reputed wine at lowest price Can keep or trade Customer con: Critics taste unfinished wine, product may be different Negociants/shippers may go out of business Prices could fall, losing money
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Bergerac AOC
Dry, sweet white, rosé and red 50% red, 10% rosé, 40% white Warmer and drier than Bordeaux, clay and limestone mixed with gravel Reds: min. 50% blend of at least 2: Cab Sauvignon/Franc, Malbec, Merlot Yields 67 hl/ha for white, 60 hl/ha for red Aging in steel or old oak for easy drinking and reduced cost Côtes de Bergerac AOC Just main Bordeaux varieties, 50 hl/ha Oak aging common, Merlot dominates Business: 90% domestic, supermarkets more than 50%, direct sales <30%, then 10% hospitality and shops Export: China 40%, Belgium and UK Tour des Gendres, FR-BIO-16 organic certification 'La Vigne d'Albert' w/mix of indigenous Permitted red grapes: Fer and Mérille Permitted white grapes: Ondenc Historically was penalized by smaller barrels (tax per number of barrels) when passing through Bordeaux
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Monbazillac AOC
Sweet white only, either botrytis or late harvest Dordogne junction with tributary, moist air funneled Multiple vineyard passes 80% principal varieties: Sauvignon Blanc/Gris, Sémillon, Muscadelle Max. yield 30 hl/ha, new oak less common than Sauternes Similar to other less prestigious sweet appellations Cave Cooperative de Monbazillac (50 growers) is largest producer Less than 10% export (in France, >50% supermarkets+deep discounters_ NW Europe for exports Tributary = Gardonette Muscadelle more important here than Sauternes, hillier
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Cahors environment
250 km inland, but some Atlantic influence - less than 800 mm per year Malbec: coulure and mildew, more regular ripening here Tannat authorized, less than 10% typically and often ignored 17% organic production (less spraying needed) - much above France Location: fertile alluvial soil near river (higher yield) - mid slope and highest plateau ~350 m for best wines, most concentrated Single Guyot training typical (cordon and bush also used) Machine harvesting common, hand harvesting often used (return on investment)
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Cahors Winemaking
Malbec: Vigorous (canopy/yield management), coulure Deep ruby, violet red and black plum, medium/medium(+) acidity, medium(+) to high tannins Some French oak for best, some foudres Winemaking Min. 70% Malbec, rest is Merlot or Tannat - 90/100% Malbec for best quality wines Destemming is required (to avoid underripe tannins) Underripeness now is likely due to drought stress Extraction: from 7-10 days for Merlot blends, to 15-25 for bottle aging Chateau du Cédre, organic production 50 hl/ha yield
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Cahors Business
80% private companies, 20% by Cooperative des Vignerons d'Olt (Vinovalie) 'Cahors, The French Malbec/Capital of Malbe' Voluntary classification: Tradition - 70/85% Malbec on alluvial soils Prestige - mid-priced, mid slope Spéciale - close to 100% Malbec, higher sites 70% of sales are domestic (supermarket and direct), exports growing (4x in 20 years) United Kingdom, Canada and USA
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Madiran Environment
Near Pyrenees, 80 km from Atlantic - Tannat variety (also sweet white in geographical area, Pacherenc du Vic-Bilh AOC) Environment 1,000 mm of rain, Atlantic influence (winter and spring) southern Föhn wind dries in summer and autumn Landscape: four large parallel ridges N-S (west slopes), clay and limestone w/drainage Slopes make tannic wines for aging Flat land has clay/clay loam for early drinking 70% Tannat, 20% Cabernet Franc, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, also Fer Savadou (Pinenc)
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Madiran Winemaking
Tannat Vigorous (wants trellis), mid-ripening before autumn rains Prone to botrytis, highly tannis Deep ruby, blackberry/blackcurrant/oak, high tannins and acidity, full body (high alcohol often) Winemaking 60-80% Tannat, w/Cabernet Franc and Cab. Sauvignon, Fer Cordon de Royat or cane training Destemming required, yield 55 hl/ha How to soften tannins? short maceration, oak aging, bottle age (cost) Patrick Ducournau developed micro-oxygenation in 1991 Easy drinking is popular: ripest fruit, gentle pressing, Mox Sale only from November in year after harvest Micro-oxygenation more before MLF (30-60mg/l/month, then 1-2mg/l/month Alain Brumont Chateau Montus La Tyre, 100% new barrels Grebb granules from Pyrenees alluvial glacier deposits
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Madiran Business
80% domestic (50% supermarkets, 25% hospitality, 25% direct/specialty shops) UK, Belgium and Germany Production 50:50 private domaines and co-operatives (Plaimont from Saint-Mont AOC)
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Jurançon environment
Pyrenee foothills, 300 m Dry and sweet wines from Petit Manseng (65%) Gros Manseng (30%) etc. 70% medium-sweet, 30% dry in 3 styles Environment Mild, humid, 1200 mm rain throughout year (flowering/fruit set/harvest) Slopes for good drainage (some require terracing), S and SW Föhn wind in spring and fall, 1/3 of days, drying and aerating Budding zone high above ground to prevent spring frost Soil: limestone, sand, clay, stone Hand harvest, multiple passes for sweet (October to December), passerillage Hang time, sun and wind allow for drying: low yields
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Jurançon Winemaking
``` Petit Manseng Early budding (spring frost), mid-late ripening, thick skin (resists botrytis) Retains high acidity, moderately aromatic, high alcohol (picking date important) ``` Gros Manseng Similar but higher yield, less aromatic: usually for dry wines Winemaking 3 styles with 50% Petit and/or Gros Manseng (typically 100%) Jurançon Vendange Tardives (sweet) - lemon, mango, high acidity, full body and often high alcohol - min. 55 g/l sugar, no enrichment, 40 hl/ha, only Mansengs - No harvest before 2 November Jurançon (medium-sweet) - min. 40 g/l sugar, 40 hl/ha Jurançon Sec (dry) - 60 hl/ha Quality sweet wines: barrel aging (old oak), 12-18 months - complexity and cost MLF usually doesn't happen as pH is too low, fruit flavors Quality dry wines might include Petit Manseng (lees aging)
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Jurançon Business
Sales divided: direct, supermarket and hospitality, exports small Domain Cauhapé, Cave de Gan co-op is half of production Dry wine increasing (sweet difficult to sell and competition) Petit Courbu, Courbu Domaine Cauhapé Geyser has all 5 permitted varieties (Camaralet) Cave de Gan has HVE
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IGP Southwest France
IGP Côtes de Gascogne Plaimont has marketed whites to UK and northern Europe 80% exported, Colombard, Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay
442
Irouléguy
Red Tannat, white Petit Courbu/Mansengs
443
Alsace Overview
Production 90% white wine AOC adopted in 1945 after return to France, shift from flat land for inexpensive to hills for premium Cremant has grown slightly, still wine fallen in last 10 years
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Alsace Environment
Long growing season, moderate continental climate - 600 mm per year Irrigation not permitted in AOC, summer drought is issue - rain spread throughout year (August) Flowering and fruit set rain hazard Föhn wind: warm, raises temp., reduces disease High sunshine hours Altitude: Vosges foothills, 200-250 m for best sites, up to 450 m S/SE/SW slopes are best (sunlight interception), inexpensive on Rhine river plain
445
Alsace Grapes
20% Riesling, Pinot Blanc, Gewurztraminer 16% Pinot Gris 11% Pinot Noir 5% Sylvaner Riesling Late budding, mid-late ripening (long season) - can still produce quality at 70 hl/ha Resistant to downy mildew, some resistance to botrytis/powdery mildew Unoaked, medium-pronounced, high acidity, med/full body (citrus, stone fruit) Gewurztraminer Early budding (frost), early ripening - accumulates sugar rapidly Vigorous (pruning/canopy), moderate productivity (coulure) Chlorosis, stem dessication, powdery mildew, grape vine moth, grey rot Virus-free clones developed by institute Low acidity, med/full body, lychee, peach, rose and spice Pinot Blanc/Auxerrois Acceptable to good, low intensity apple/peach, medium acidity Auxerrois is early ripening, low acidity - blends or Crémant Pinot Gris Early budding, early ripening: moderate yield, botryrtis/downy mildew Medium/high alcohol, full body/medium acidity - oily smoky honeyed notes Rapid drop in acidity: earlier harvest due to climate change + canopy management Drier styles more common now, 12.5-13.5% Pinot Noir Local demand, learning from other regions - unoaked and oaked, Muré, Albert Mann Silvaner On decline, older vines (40 or more) so it is source of good value (not found on valley floor) Muscat Muscat Blanc à Petits Grains, Muscat Ottonel (ripens earlier, avoids rain)
446
Alsace Vineyard
Single/double Guyot required by AOC Higher training at 1-1.2 m to avoid frost (on plain), canopy at 1.9 m for max. sun exposure Spacing between rows is wider to avoid shading Density: 4,000-4,800 vines/ha, less dense on valley floor, more dense on slopes Some grand cru sites are terraced Pests: Powdery/downy mildew, lobesia botrana, esca 15% organic (France is 10%), small-scale production means closer monitoring Harvest is extended, early September to late October - range of styles and sites Grand cru is hand harvested
447
Alsace Winemaking
Monovarietal is typical, primary fruit character: some skin contact Cold ferment: Muscat, Riesling + Silvaner Mid-range ferment: Gewurztraminer (aroma not affected, high sugar levels mean higher temp is more reliable) Inert fermentation (large oak or stainless steel, very little new oak used) Small producers like ambient yeast (terroir expression) MLF avoided in general to protect fruit Wines stored on fine lees without stirring to preserve freshness Indications of sweetness are now becoming more regularized (from 2021 harvest required, EU level or visual scale)
448
Alsace Laws
Alsace AOC yields: max. 80 hl/ha for Pinot Gris and Gewurztraminer, 90 hl/ha for Riesling, 100 hl/ha for Pinot Blanc 13 communes (Bergheim), name allowed: 72 hl/ha Lieu-dit name allowed: 68 hl/ha Grand cru 55 hl/ha, sometimes 50 hl/ha (Rangen) Grand cru introduced in 1975, single variety noble (Riesling Muscat Pinot Gris and Gewurztraminer) Some allow blend (Altenberg de Bergheim) or Silvaner Debate about grand cru status being too lax Trimbach/Hugel initially rejected, now using it: each of 51 grand crus is individual since 2011 (different rules) Premier cru under discussion
449
Vendange Tardive/Selection de Grains Nobles
Four noble varieties, high sugar level at harvest SGN has to be botrytis and sweet Sugar: Muscat/Riesling VT: 235 g/l, SGN: 276 g/lol Pinot Gris/Gewurztraminer: 257 g/l, SGN; 306 g/l
450
Alsace Business
Avg. holding under 3.5 ha, many co-ops (40%) Gastronomy, 75% sold in France Export: EU (Belgium/Germany/Netherlands), then North America Flute bottle required, brand identity (similar to German) Many domains have 20-35 bottlings (all varieties and styles/quality levels) Hugel, Trimbach, Zind-Humbrecht Cave de Turckheim has 50 bottlings, seven varieties (rely on producer/Alsace reputation) Rangen Grand Cru in extreme south of the appellation has warm volcanic soils where Zind-Humbrecht makes Riesling + Pinot Gris, lower yield of 50 hl/ha Marcel Deiss: Does not specify grape variety (mixed planting), Altenberg de Bergheim (GW and Riesling)
451
Alsace Extras
Alsace Grand Cru max. 8 buds/square meter (Gewurztraminer 12 buds/square meter) Sub-Vosges hills more limestone and calcareous, mountains are granite and volcanic and sandstone Zotzenberg allow Silvaner Commune: Saint-Hippolyte Edelzwicker or Gentil is cheap blend Grand Cru is 4% of production Kaefferkopf allows Gewurz blends Walled vineyards such as Zind-Humbrecht's Clos Windbuhl are outside of Grand Cru but command premium prices
452
Australia Overview
Settlers brought vines in 1788 James Busby brought vines in 1830s South Australia is phylloxera-free: old vine Syrah, Cab. Sauvignon, Grenache Exports to Europe during phylloxera era Domestic fortified wines of Muscat, Syrah, Grenache After WWII, demand of dry non-fortified wines increases Companies started in 1950s (Penfolds, Jacobs Creek) Planting of cool regions for boutique vineyards in 1970s Australian marketing led varietal labelling, taste descriptors Became 5th largest exporter in 2000s Oversupply caused vineyards to fall (Australian model copied) - Strength of Australian dollar after 2008 crisis made it costly - Droughts increased cost of irrigation water - Result: shift to smaller production and higher priced wines
453
Australia Business
2,250 wineries (number has fallen, small wineries becoming growers) 12 producers had 12,000 tonnes, 80% had 250 tonnes or less Large companies: Accolade Wines, Casella Family Brands, Treasury Wine Estates (87% of exports) Wine Australia: levy on grape grower to fund research, control export, promote wines Increase demand, competitiveness, quality 5th largest exporter (growth since 1980s), exports 7-8.6 million hL (2/3 of production) UK, China, USA, Canada and Germany China is fastest growing, leads in value (China-Australia Free Trade Agreement, shipment to mainland) 2/3 of wineries have a cellar door, 70-80% in Victoria/Tasmania Wine tourism is big deal, near cities or even Margaret River Experimentation with new varieties popular on domestic market, hard sell on exports
454
Australia Environment
146,000 ha planted, SE of country: 30 to 37 S latitude Mostly flat (Coonawarra 100km from coast but maritime) Great Dividing Range from Queensland to Victoria Varied soils, different ages 7th largest producer (sometimes 5th or 6th): 12.6 million hL Hazards: drought (Murray-Darling Basin can run low) - Adelaide Hills + Margaret River store water in dams until needed - McLaren Vale + Coonawarra rely on underground water - Use of recycled wastewater from Adelaide suburbs Canopy management: Scott-Henry + Smart-Dyson for vigor, old vines Mechanization thanks to wide vine rows and flat/gentle slopes - Large area covered quickly (bring grapes to cool winery, night harvest) Salinity of soil with irrigation over time, or aquifers deposit on surface - Chardonnay is vulnerable = rootstocks, irrigation patterns Grafting often used for acidity/salinity, future phylloxera prevention Sustainable Winegrowing Australia has 25% of production Birds fought with netting, kangaroos have no solution Heat means narrow harvest window, logistics mean some early harvested grapes
455
Australia Grapes
25% Shiraz, 20% Chardonnay, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Merlot + Sauvignon Blanc Lots of indigenous warm-climate European grapes (Fiano, Sangiovese) Australian Wine Research Institute in Adelaide Shiraz Adaptable: from Barossa Valley + McLaren Vale, full body + soft tannins, dark fruit Yarra Valley + Grampians: medium alcohol, red and black cherry, black pepper Trend is less intensity: less extraction, whole bunches or less oak American oak is traditional, French oak becoming more popular Open fermentation with manual punch downs used for quality soft extraction GSM blends (Mataro), Shiraz-Viognier co-fermented (cheaper blended after) Also acts like Merlot in Cabernet Sauvignon blends Cabernet Sauvignon Higher acidity + tannin than Shiraz, blackcurrant and black cherry, oak Coonawarra: eucalyptus, Margaret River for Merlot blend, riper + herbal Merlot Often in blends, or single: from medium body/tannins to full black fruit, clones Pinot Noir - Yarra Valley, Mornington Peninsula, Tasmania: medium body, medium-high acidity, red fruit flavors: whole bunch, cold maceration and stem inclusion are common Grenache Just 1% of harvest weight, but old bush vines in McLaren vale, Eden Valley + Barossa new style has fresher fruit, higher acidity - whole bunches or stems, old oak or large barrels Chardonnay Harvest now earlier, leaner style with less oak Premium wines usually medium/medium(+) acidity with citrus/peach Complexity from ambient yeasts, solids, barrel, lees Sometimes blended with Semillon in cheap wines Sauvignon Blanc Less herbaceous than NZ, Adelaide Hills is famous: intense citrus/tropical Bordeaux style blend in Margaret River w/Semillon Pinot Grigio Either early harvest for neutral Veneto style, or fuller Alsace (less full bodied though) Victoria (Mornington Peninsula) and Tasmania make best Pinot Gris Semillon Low alcohol, high acidity Hunter Valley style: complex with bottle aging Fuller bodied high alcohol, oaky style from Barossa Valley Riverina in New South Wales: complex sweet wines Riesling Clare and Eden Valley, Great Southern, Canberra + Tasmania Bone dry, high acidity, lime, grapefruit and peach Bottling soon after fermentation (steel), premium just free-run juice Muscat Gordo Blanco, Colombard Blending partner for better known varieties, decreasing in last 10-15 years
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Australia Divisions
GIs developed in 1990s Zones: No rules or geographic/climatic characteristics ex: South Australia, South Eastern Australia, Fleurieu, Barossa Regions: 63 identified: Coonawarre, Clare Valley, Margaret River must have distinct, consistent character: 500 tonnes of grapes, 5 vineyards of 5 ha Tasmania is a region, not a zone Sub-Regions: 14 identified, in Hunter Valley + Great Southern for topography Zones are typically used for multi-region blends Label Integrity Programme of 1990: 85% of grapes in vintage, variety or GI Multiple varieties listed in descending order Audits regularly carried out by Australia Grape and Wine Authority
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South Eastern Australia
Murray-Darling Basin: Riverland, Murray-Darling, Riverina Riverland has some maritime influence (no mountains) Casella Family Brands in Riverina, Lindeman's in Murray Darling Sandy soils and low (135mm) rainfall make irrigation essential Shiraz, Chardonnay and Semillon (Riverina): high alcohol, low acidity, ripe fruit Hot climate grapes Petit Verdot, Viognier, Vermentino, Nero d'Avola do better Griffith in Riverina has sweet Semillon (tend to be labeled individual region name)
458
South Australia
50% of Australia's production, concentrated in SE corner near coast Eight smaller zones, including Limestone Coast + Fleurieu Penfolds Grange is just South Australia
459
Barossa Valley
60 km inland of Adelaide, 11,000 ha, Protected: west plain with low hills, Eden Valley Region and south Adelaide Hills Hot summer days, cooler nights, low rainfall (160 mm) 250 to 370 m altitudes, valley sides are cooler Soil variety: ironstone in north retains water, age-worthy wines First plantings in 1840s, Barossa Old Vine Charter 2009 (many lost in vine pull 1980s) Style: full body, high alcohol, high tannins, ripe (cooked) black fruit New American oak, shift to French oak and earlier harvest for elegance Cabernet Sauvignon cooler sites, soft tannins and higher alcohol than Margaret River Grenache in Rhone blends and single variety 9% of production is white: tropical Chardonnay, high alcohol Semillon, oaky
460
Eden Valley
East of Barossa, exposed hills in Mount Lofty Ranges, often steep gradients Up to >600 m altitude (230 mm rain), wind can affect flowering Better water retention, more dry farming Old-vine Shiraz and Riesling Production is half white, half red: 1/3 Riesling Shiraz has higher acid, more structure, lower alcohol: ripe plum and blackberry
461
Adelaide Hills
Old region, vines were removed by 1930, replanted in 1970s Valleys and hills restrict machines Cool to moderate maritime climate (400-500 m, near ocean) Low altitude west slopes for red wines, higher altitude for whites Low latitude means ripe fruit even at high sites Piccadilly Valley and Lenswood are sub-regions 280 to 320 mm rain during growing season, winter rain collected in dams Fungal diseases and rot are a problem: spraying is common 64% whites, 28% Sauvignon Blanc: ripe fruit, high acidity (less herbaceous) Chardonnays have ripe stone fruit, medium+/high acidity, often MLF Pinot Noir for sparkling wine and still, medium bodied/alcohol Some fruity/peppery medium-bodied, high tannin Shiraz Grüner Veltniner: Hahndorf Hill, Fiano, Arneis Basket Range area for low-intervention wine
462
Clare Valley
125 km north of Adelaide, warm climate with cool afternoon breezes/cold nights Vineyards at 300-500 m, gentle slopes and ridges/valleys Only 250 mm rain during growing season Small, family-owned vineyards Riesling over 35% of plantings Sunburn is hazard: thick canopies with west shade Dry, medium alcohol + lime aromas, higher acidity than Eden Valley Slate soil of Polish Hill: low fertility, flintier Riesling for aging (honey and toast) Limestone Watervale for aromatic, fertile early drinking style Black varieties just over half: Shiraz and Cabernet Sauvignon, medium(+) acidity/tannins
463
McLaren Vale
Gulf St. Vincent to West, Adelaide Hills to east Gulf winds and hill winds moderate warm/hot climate Less than 200 mm of rain during growing season 7,200 ha with microclimates: sea and altitude (up to 350 m) Varied soil types: north has lower nutrients, south is more fertile Oldest wine-producing region in Australia European (Italian) immigration after WWII brought back red wine production More than 90% black grapes, >1/2 Shiraz, then Cabernet and Grenache Deep color, full body, high alcohol, spicy oak, jammy Blewitt Springs in north has old vine Grenache: medium tannins/acidity, red fruit Mediterranean grapes like Sangiovese, Mourvèdre Large vineyards, mechanized dominate Excess vigor (Shiraz and Grenache are vigorous) and fertile soils are difficult Organic and biodynamic common, Sustainable Winegrowing based here Dams, boreholes and recycled wastewater used for irrigation Producers: Hardys, Mollydooker and Yangarra
464
Coonawarra
``` Limestone Coast Cooler climate (further south), sea breezes and cool nights, flat land ``` Moderate, Bordeaux climate (warmer and drier, 260 mm during season) Cloud cover in season moderates temp Spring frost hazard, combatted with sprinklers Terra rossa: iron-rich clay loam, 50 cm deep over limestone base - Alkaline soil restricts nutrient uptake, limestone blocks roots - Soft limestone beneath base holds water for irrigation - Narrow strip in center of 5,000 ha GI More than 50% of plantings are Cabernet Sauvignon - Medium alcohol, medium/full body, high tannins, mint and eucalyptus Shiraz planted, lighter body than Barossa 13% white varieties: ripe fruity Chardonnay, Riesling with lower acidity Isolation makes workforce difficult: mechanization/migrant labor Producers: Wynns, Katnook
465
Victoria
Split into six zones Focused on quality (3rd highest production) apart from Murray-Darling basin Yarra Valley planted in 1838 at Yering Station, phylloxera in late 1800s Vineyards struggled in 1930s - recovery in 1960s with just 22 producers Yarra Valley has had issues with phylloxera - grafting, replanting
466
Yarra Valley (Port Philipp Zone)
Cool to moderate climate, 2,500 ha, altitudes 50 - 350 m Lower Yarra is low NW, Upper Yarra is high SE Gentle valley slopes, risk of frost on valley floor Annual rain: 1,100 mm (450-500 mm in season) Fungal diseases, humidity Lower Yarra: Loamy clay soil, low fertility - well-draining, irrigation Upper Yarra: Deeper, fertile volcanic soils - dry farming 60% black grapes, more than 1/2 Pinot Noir Style: light to medium body, fruity, whole bunch fermentation Mix of new and old oak, large (500 L) barrels more common Just over 1/4 Chardonnay: white peach, grapefruit, melon - First to adopt lean style, high acidity, less oak, - High solids give smoky flavors from reduction - MLF often avoided, but lees or oak still used Shiraz + Cabernet Sauvignon in warm parts: medium body, spicy Producers: Mount Mary + Yarra Yering
467
Mornington Peninsula
Cool to moderate climate, 920 ha, Port Phillip Bay and Bass Strait High sunshine hours, but wind keeps temps low, water makes fall mild Wind keeps disease pressure low, but inhibits flowering Rain 320-390 mm during growing season, can be risk at harvest/flowering Flat area, with Red Hill ridge up to 250 m (red basalt soils hold water) Lyre system for training to manage vigor on ridge Free-draining clay and sand away from ridge 1/2 Pinot Noir: light body, medium(+) acidity from Red Hill, or more intense from lower Cold soaking for color extraction, whole bunches or stems for tannins Chardonnay: ~30% of plantings, medium body + high acidity Some high quality Shiraz and Pinot Gris Land prices high, competition from tourism/golf courses Producers: Yabby Lake and Paringa, cellar doors/restaurants for DTC
468
Geelong
First phylloxera in Australia, re-established in 1960s Bellarine Peninsula, 500-600 mm of rain, strong SW winds 467 ha of vineyards, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, Shiraz + Cabernet Sauvignon Riper red/black cherry, medium soft tannins for Pinot Noir Chardonnays medium bodied, peach and melon Producers: Paradise IV Wines, Wines By Farr
469
Macedon Ranges
215 ha, 40 quality wineries Great Dividing Range, 300-800 m of altitude Shallow granite/sandy loam on hillsides, deeper on low slopes Chardonnay, Pinot Noir (still/sparkling) + Riesling Shiraz for black pepper on warm sites Producer: Bindi
470
Grampians (Western Victoria)
Moderate climate, 130 km inland, 240-440 m altitude Low rainfall in growing season (250 mm), but sandy/loam soils retain water Acidic soils reduce yields, treatment with lime
471
Pyrenees
gentle slopes, warmer and lower than Grampians Shiraz: medium bodied, peppery and spicy, red to black fruit Mount Langi Ghiran, Dalwhinnie
472
Henty
SW Victoria, cold Antarctic winds, high sunshine hours Sea level to 460 m of altitude Riesling: high acidity, lemon + lime toasty with age Chardonnay, Pinot Gris/Noir, Shiraz + Cabernet Sauvignon
473
King Valley
Northeast Victoria, continental climate Up to 860 m in altitude, high rainfalls (disease pressure), bottom around 250 m High fertile, well draining loams: vigor management 1,400 ha of vineyards, equal black and white Italian immigrants (tobacco after WWII), Glera is 1/3 of production Pinot Grigio for light bodied style is most planted still white Merlot + Cab Sauvignon most planted Sangiovese, Barbera and Nebbiolo most interesting Domestic consumption dominates, exports increasing (pricey compared to Italy) Producers: Pizzini and de Bortoli Forza di Ferro Sangiovese
474
Beechworth
200 to 1000 m, wide range of climates: medium body Chardonnay + Shiraz Also Pinot Noir, Sangiovese and Nebbiolo
475
Central Victoria
Goulbourn Valley for Marsanne, Viognier + Roussanne (Mitchelton) and Bendigo: Flat, warm plains for ripe full bodied reds Upper Goulbourn is cool foothills, Chardonnay, Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc
476
Heathcote
Mount Carmel Range, altitudes of 160 and 320 m Slopes funnel south winds, diurnal range preserves acidity 250 mm of rain during growing season, rain steady throughout year Calcareous red soil, weathered greenstone: retains water, dry farming 3/4 black grapes, 50% Shiraz: medium(+) acidity, full body, high alcohol, dark fruit + spice Producers: Jasper Hill and Heathcote Estate
477
Gippsland
More than 50 family-owned vineyards, coastal flats and hillsides 420-530 mm of rain in growing season, Chardonnay + Pinot Noir or Cab. + Merlot
478
New South Wales
2nd state for production, growth since 1980s Sub-tropical, moderate to high temperatures, high humidity + rain Inland climate continental (Great Dividing Range)
479
Hunter Valley
Region: Hunter, 2600 ha vineyards (oldest in Australia) 32-33 S, tropical climate with hot and humid temperatures, intense sun Lower Hunter: coastal breezes, sandy and clay loam over clay base 500 mm rainfall during growing season, fungal diseases Tropical storms are a concern in summer, harvest often earliest in Australia Semillon: light body, high acidity, low alcohol - Neutral when young, honey and hay with bottle age - Highest quality wines not released for five years - Early harvest, gentle pressing with no skin contact, moderate temps - Producers: Tyrrell's + Mount Pleasant Chardonnay also common, range of styles (cooler sites, earlier picking) Shiraz: medium body, red and black fruit, spice
480
Central Ranges Zone
Mudgee: Harvest 1 month after Hunter Valley, lower rainfall making irrigation necessary Continental climate with cooling from altitude, intense sun - 450 m Orange: Labels often say Orange Region, slopes of Mount Canobolas 600-900 m Red volcanic basalt soils, yellow/brown clay loams, gravel Wind prevents frost, affects fruit set Black varieties just over 1/2: Shiraz with red fruit, Cabernet with blackcurrant, medium body Chardonnay: high acidity, medium body, MLF common with oak Sauvignon Blanc + Pinot Gris increasing Ross Hill + Tamburlaine Mudgee dominated by Shiraz + Cab, Cowra by Chardonnay
481
Canberra District
Southern New South Wales Continental climate, sheltered by Snowy Mountains 500-850 m altitude, diurnal range + intense sun Irrigation needed, but autumn rain can be a challenge Shiraz for black cherry, high tannins + acidity Tim Kirk: Shiraz/Viognier pioneer Ravensworth Riesling: floral and citrus, high acidity Lark Hill Grüner Veltliner Hilltops: Shiraz, Cab Sauvignon, Chardonnay Tumbarumba: Pinot + Chardonnay, still/sparkling
482
Tasmania
1,700 ha of vines, less than 1% of wine Still wines are 2/3 of production Cool maritime due to latitude and west winds from Southern Ocean Tasmania is one GI, but informal regions exist Coal River Valley in SE, Tamar Valley in north South is cooler than north: NE aspect important SE is drier, irrigation NW has 350 mm of rain in growing season, fungal diseases Pinot Noir 42%, Chardonnay 28% Pinot: light/medium body, medium(+) to high acidity Chardonnay: medium body, apple, white peach and pear MLF common, barrel fermentation for premium Cool climate grapes: Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling and Pinot Gris Tolpuddle and Tamar Ridge Domestic market is huge, tourism/DTC
483
Margaret River
Swan Valley near Perth is very hot, high yielding 3% of Australia's production, premium focus 5,700 ha of vineyards, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon Warm Indian Ocean gives longer ripening (nights are not cool) Maritime climate, frosts are not an issue 1000 mm of rain year round, only 275 mm during season Flat region, gentle hills (less than 100 m altitude) Gravelly soils, irrigation (dams), low fertility Ridge in center shelters some east vineyards Botrdeaux blends: medium(+) acidity, high tannins, blackberry, blackcurrent Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay and Semillon have 17-19 percent each Chardonnay is premium white: high acidity, medium(+) body and stone fruit MLF blocked, barrel fermentation and maturation (usually French oak) Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon/blend, grassy + herbaceous, gooseberry to tropical Stainless steel or barrel ferment (more oxygen available for aerobic phase of yeast, higher alcohol) Producers: Leeuwin and Moss Wood
484
Great Southern
Sub-regions: Albany and Denmark are maritime, coastal Mount Barker, Porongurup and Frankland River up to 300 m Frankland River has more continental climate, less rain (220 mm) Salinity in low lying soil, water pumped from a distance 55% black grapes (Shiraz 30%) Shiraz in Mt. Barker and Frankland River: high acidity/tannins, herbal, psice Producers: Larry Cherubino, Howard Park Cabernet Sauvignon: Mount Barker powerful, Porongurup elegant, medium body Riesling main white (less planted than Sauvignon Blanc/Chardonnay) - Porungurup for light bodied, high acidity, bottle aging Sauvignon Blanc more monovarietal, Albany and Denmark Chardonnay: barrel fermentation, lees contact
485
Adelaide Hills extras
Petaluma founded in 1976, modern era Piccadilly Valley is high altitude, harvest and ripening latest - Hahndorf Hill: Grüner Veltliner and Blaufränkisch (Blueblood and Gru) - Whole-bunch for Pinot Noir and Syrah - Basket Range for low-intervention, Lucy Margaux
486
Barossa extras
- Yalumba started in 1800s, Silesian immigrants - Barossa Old Vine Charter 2009 (pioneered by Yalumba) - Includes High Eden sub-region (harvest one month earlier, Pewsey Vale) - Low-fertility clay loam with sand -red-yellow brown loams over red clay - Soils are acidic - Largest pre-phylloxera plantings in world - 63% Syrah - Grenache dates back to 1848: Yalumba 'Old Bush Vine' - Langmeil 'The Freedom' 1843: oldest Shiraz vines in world - Penfolds Kalimna Block 42 Cabernet Sauvignon - Arneis and Barbera also planted
487
Eden Valley extras
- South: Pewsey Vale vineyard 500 m, North: Henschke 380-400 - Soils: shallow and rocky clay loams - dry farming - Barossa Grounds Project: influence of different areas on style - 30% Riesling, Eden Valley now has traditional bottle - Henschke 'Hill of Grace' old vine - plum and blackberry - Harvest mid-March to April (Barossa starts in February), High Eden later
488
McLaren Vale extras
- Between Gulf St. Vincent and Mount Lofty Ranges - First reclaimed-water network in Australia - Urban sprawl legislation passed 2012 - Free-draining soils: sandy loams and loamy sands - 5% Grenache - Highest percentage of organic and biodynamic vineyards - Sustainable Winegrowing Australia started here, 2/3 of fruit by weight - Hardys Tintara Shiraz - Wirra Wirra: Shiraz, Grenache, Tempranillo/Touriga Amator - Yangarra single-vineyard Grenache - High Sands - PF Shiraz - wild yeast and cold soak for floral - Chardonnay, Vermentino, Fiano
489
Clare Valley extras
- Riesling producers started screwcap revolution in 2000 - Generally water-retaining soils, 11 types: fertile alluvial - Polish Hill has grey loam and slate, Watervale has some terra rossa - Cordon training VSP typical, but canes increasing due to eutypa dieback - Slate and limestone - Off-dry Riesling experimentation - Mount Horrocks Watervale Riesling, organic - also grows Nero d'Avola
490
Coonawarra extras
- Originally planted with grapes such as Pedro Ximenez, then struggles in early 20th century - Debate about increasing area (soft brand of region name, diluting terroir) - Upwelling of ocean water (cold water rises to surface) - terra rossa is 1/3 clay, weathered limestone - brown rendzina in transitional zones - Cover crops: grass between rows, reduce spraying - Coonawarra Rootstock Trial: which performs best - Wynn's Black Label: 21% new oak, screwcap
491
Langhorne Creek
- Similar hectarage to Barossa Valley's 11,000 ha (largest after Riverland/Riverina) - Typically used for blends (not seen on labels) - Bleasdale Malbec
492
Hunter Valley extras
- First planted 1823 - Semillon used to be known as 'Hunter River Riesling' - Hills of Brokenback Range (up to 250m) - Pokolbin in Lower Hunter has wineries and restaurants - Semillon prefers sandy alluvial flats, Shiraz in silty loamy hills - Harvest early January to mid-February - Semillon: gentle handling and crushing, cold temperature ferment - Tyrell's Vat 1 Semillon - 27% Semillon (close to equal production of Syrah and Chardonnay)
493
Central Ranges extras
Mudgee needs irrigation, Cab Sauvignon typically monovarietal Orange has Ross Hill winery - only carbon neutral winery in Australia Cowra has spring frost risk Hilltops: ridges and hillside slopes for frost protection Tumbarumba: decomposed granite Lark Hill: Sangiovese, Shiraz/Viognier Tim Kirk
494
Riverina
Lindeman's sells Griffith botrytised Semillon, while De Bortoli's Noble One is Wine of Australia
495
Mornington Peninsula extras
- Relatively new area (80s and 90s) - crash after gold rush - Bass Strait to south gives cool breezes - Ridge formed by ancient volcanic activity - Up the hill in the south, ripening weeks earlier - Fertile sand in north - Small-scale family vineyards, 1/2 pinot noir - Australian standard is 2.5-3.5 m width for mechanization - Hand pruning to lower disease risk and ensure sunlight access - Ten Minutes by Tractor is pioneering high density - Gravity-fed winemaking systems - Move to larger oak, concrete eggs, amphora - Pinot Noir Project: weather stations, different site comparisons - Red Hill Estate: line of wines exclusively sold at cellar door
496
Yarra Valley extras
Production stopped in 1920 due to fortified demand, started again in 1960s Dandenong Ranges to south MJT less than 20 C, diurnal range low Well draining Lower Yarra in north has grey loamy clay derived from GDR sandstone (acidic) - fertile Upper Yarra in south has red volcanic soil Bailey Carrodus at Yarra Yering: dry farming, low yields Experimentation: low sulphur, skin contact, whole bunches Precision viticulture, soil mapping Timo Mayer of Bloody Hill started at De Bortoli, started trend of whole bunch fermentation Yarra Yering Dry Red wine no. 1 is Bordeaux blend w/whole bunch petit verdot/malbec
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Goulbourn extras
Warm climate, low rainfall, up to 400 m Red and brown sandy clay loam: typical for SE Australia Gravelly quartzose from Goulbourn River, which cools with lakes and billabongs Tahbilk old-vine Marsanne has 6 years bottle-aging before release: lemon curd
498
Margaret River extras
Harold Olmo UC Davis recommended planting Leeuwin's Art series 80s, Gin Gin clone Leeuwin-Naturaliste Ridge (old soils, well-drained) Mendoza clone Small families, even red/white production Birds are hazard before marri trees bloom Cullen Wines carbon neutral, barrel ferment Houghton Clone Cab Sauvignon, richer and rounder than Coonawarra
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Great Southern extras
Frankland River, catchment for various rivers, gravelly loam Mount Barker coolest, diurnal range Porongorup smallest, ancient granite peaks less frost risk (air goes up mountains) Lateritic gravel, sandy loams or granite and gneiss Frankland River red soils Porongorup deep karri loam Albany+Denmark: higher vigor, more canopy management - hand picking FR+MB some mechanization Geographical isolation=labor scarcity D+A have some dry farming, irrigation elsewheref
500
Italy Overview
Etruscan and Greek influence, 8th century BCE Roman Empire ends in 5th century, business halt until 11th-14th centuries Genoa and Venice: trading centers Florence: banking center, Antinori banks and investment in land/wine Sharecropping: 13th century, landowners take ½ of production, peasants live and sell Local consumption dominated, export by boat (land challenging) Andrea Bacci: 16th century botanist discusses Italian varieties End of 19th century: Chianti becomes Sangiovese-dominated International varieties in early 20th century after phylloxera Unification in 1861, economic boom after WWII Focus on high yield and volume – from 70s, quality + export improved Stainless steel tanks, temperature control: Friuli, 1960s Super Tuscans in 1970s – Bordeaux blends, raise ambition 21st century – local varieties, success of Pinot Grigio and Prosecco Traditional: pergolas in north, mixed planting Tuscany, bush vines in south > 50,000 ha Sangiovese, 40,000 ha Pinot Grigio, 30,000 ha Catarratto
501
Italy Winemaking
White winemaking from Germany (control) + French reds (small new oak) Tradition: large Slavonian oak for controlled oxidation, no new oak 80s and 90s: boom of new oak with Bordeaux, Nebbiolo, Sangiovese 21st century: return to old oak, larger sizes or concrete
502
Italy Law
Chianti outlined in 1716: fines for fraud Denominazione di Origine Controllata: introduced in 1967 Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita: 1980 Supertuscans, Pergole Torte sold as vino da tavola and then IGT Classico: historical center, Superiore: higher alcohol, Riserva: aging Indicazione Geografica Tipica: wide range of styles and grapes, region 2008: DOP and IGP can be used, vino replaces vino da tavola – no year/varietal
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Italy Business
50 million hl on average, largest producer (except 2014) Holdings < 2 ha: co-ops, merchant and large companies Vino: 1/3, IGT: 1/4, DOP: 2/5 Caviro co-op: 10% of Italian grapes Cantine Riunite, Zonin Consumption down 1/3 in 100 years, spirits and beer on rise: export boom 40% exported – equal volume still and sparkling, 2/3 of value is still wine Markets: USA (26%), Germany (18%)
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Friuli-Venezia-Giulia
75% white wine, 4% of country’s production (quality white monovarietal) Warm maritime climate, flat Adriatic plains vs. hills: 1200 mm rain (disease), 46 N Grave del Friuli DOC: volume production, Friuli Isonzo: right bank of river Collio DOC: joined Italy 1914, becoming DOCG, yield 77 hl/ha, bora wind Colli Orientali del Friuli DOC calcareous ponca marl/sandstone, 200 m hills Single-variety whites from Friulano/Ribolla Gialla/Sauv./Char. Winemaking: Mario Schiopetto 1960s, technical developments (control) Orange wine: Oslavia sub-region of Collio, 1 week to 6 months skin contact 2-6 years in large oak, Josko Gravner pioneer: dried fruit, hay, nuts organic, local+international, ambient yeast, no fining/filtering/SO2 Colli Orientali del Friuli Picolit DOCG, air-dried sweet, 10-15 berries Ramandolo DOCG: Air-dried sweet Verduzzo Friuli DOC: 2016, 98 hl/ha (high), quality across region
505
Friuli-Venezia-Giulia Grapes
Pinot Grigio 25%, Merlot 15%, local white grapes Malvasia di Istria, Picolit Local red grapes: Refosco, Tazzalenghe, Schioppettino, Welschriesling, Blaufränkisch = Franconia (connection with Austrian history) Friulano (Tocai Friulano, Sauvignon Vert): disease resistant – good/v. good, mid/prem. Medium (-) intensity, floral + apple, med/high alcohol, med (+) acidity Ribolla Gialla: Collio/Colli Orientali, citrus+pepper with high acidity Shot berries, style experimentation, oak, sparkling, sweet, amphora Refosco: Refosco dal Pedunculo Rosso, vigorous hillside plantings Late ripening, no botrytis, red fruit + herbs Small berries, high tannin (oak)
506
Friuli-Venezia-Giulia Business
Restaurants and specialist wine shop, export value up 50% in last 10 years Focus on local reds: Refosco, Schioppetino (Ronchi di Cialla), Carso DOC Competition: Trentino/Alto Adige for inexpensive whites, Eastern Europe Consorzio Tutela Vini Collio
507
Veneto Overview
Warm continental, moderate rainfall, cooling from Lake Garda to Venice, Po Delta to foothills of Alps – Italy’s largest wine region (PG/Prosecco) Fog from Adige River, Po River valley: spraying, cooling from altitude Flat plains: fertile soil, PG, international grapes, Corvina, Trebbiano Merlot >10%, Corvina 10%
508
Soave
Limestone, clay, basalt hills: cool soil and altitude slow ripening Fertile, alluvial soils on plains: lower acidity, younger drinking Garganega: Vigorous, productive, late-ripening (October) – good/v. good, inex/mid Switch from pergola to trellising (hand in hills, machine in plains) Mildew, botrytis and winter cold are hazards High acidity, medium body, medium intensity lemon/white pepper/peach (almond, honey) – medium acidity on plains Quality wines: cool ferment (16-18 C), months of lees aging Soave DOC: 105 hl/ha, 70% Garganega, 30% Verdicchio/Chard, 5% OAG Release from December 1 year of harvest, 80% of all production Soave Classico DOC: 98 hl/ha, hilly region, same grapes Release from February 1 after harvest, 20% of all production Soave Superiore DOCG: 70 hl/ha, hilly region of Recioto, tiny production Garganega makes concentrated wines at high yields, 2 years Recioto di Soave DOCG: 36 hl/ha, air-dried grapes, floral/honey, sweet Business: small growers (2 ha), large bottlers (10% small wineries) Cantina di Soave co-op produces half of wine Competition from Pinot Grigio, but 80% is exported (Germany + UK) Soave Consorzio has classified single vineyards on hills: soil/aspect/height
509
Valpolicella Grapes/Winemaking
Corvina Veronese: Vigorous, high yielding, thick skin for drying Mid-late ripening, downy mildew, botrytis, esca and drought Basal buds are infertile: pergola (for air circulation too) Pergolas lower temp but lose water through evapotranspiration Blends typical: violet, red cherry, low/medium tannin + high acidity Allegrini La Poja is monovarietal, oak-aged example Corvinone: Unrelated to Corvina, downy mildew Uneven ripening means multiple vineyard passes (labor/cost) Tannins and red cherry, also suitable for drying Rondinella: Reliable, productive, good on various soils Prone to esca, otherwise good disease resistance Sugar accumulation (Recioto), neutral cherry Molinara: High-yielding, pale color (unfashionable), acidity+ light red berry Inexpensive winemaking: Controlled ferment at 20-25, 1 week maceration, 6-8 months aging Appassimento (style is passito): harvest early at 11-11.5%, clean Let dry in fruttai lofts for 3-4 months on arele Single bunch layer, check for mold + rotate 1/3 of grape weight lost: anthocyanins, tannins, sugar, acidity higher Chemical changes: more glycerol, softer mouthfeel
510
Valpolicella Law
Wine law: Corvina/Corvinone 45-95%, Rondinella 5-30%, max. 25% other authorized with no single variety more than 10% (aromatic varieties 10%) Valpolicella DOC: 83 hl/ha, bright purple, red cherry/rose, med (+) acidity - good Valpolicella Classico DOC: good to very good, more concentrated Valpolicella Valpantena DOC: Grapes grown in Valpantena valley Superiore: min 12% ABV, 1 year of aging Romano dal Forno uses many years of aging, not typical Recioto della Valpolicella DOCG: Sweet, semi-dried – whole DOC/Classico Dried 100-120 days for 14% potential, max. 48 hl/ha 12% ABV, 2.8% ABV residual sugar (50 g/l) – v.good/outstanding, premium Traditional, unfashionable: red fruit, full body, med(+)/high tannin Amarone della Valpolicella DOCG: Modern dry/off-dry interpretation Same yield, geography and ABV as Recioto – good/outst, mid-premium 14% ABV min., max. 9 g/l sugar (up to 12 for higher alcohol) Two years aging in large cask, Riserva is 4 years Cherry/dried fruit/spice, high acidity, med/high tannins New oak or oxidative old oak, quality varies due to popularity Valpollicella Ripasso DOC: Skins from Recioto or Amarone finishing ferment added to new Valpolicella wine after press, sugar restarts fermentation Min. 3 days ferment w/transferred yeast: add color, tannin and flavor – good/v.good Min. 12.5% ABV (13% for Superiore), up to 15% Amarone added 1 year aging, often in old oak: med/full body, med(+)tannin, stewed fruit IGP wines in this style made w/dried grape wine mix w/regular wine
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Valpolicella Business
80% of producers represented by Valpollicella Consorzio: marketing/promotion/research+sustainability Amarone grown 6x since 1990s, Ripasso 4x to 2016, Recioto static Valpolicella dropped 40%, reflecting popularity of other styles Amarone is 10 million bottles (1/4 of grapes) – sub-regions not specified, 50% max Sustainability initiative: 60% of members, growth (reduce respect retrench)
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Veneto DOCs
Pinot Grigio delle Venezie DOC Replaced IGP in 2017 (new Trevenezie IGP does not allow Pinot Grigio) Three provinces, 85% of Italy’s PG (40% of world’s): yield 126 hl/ha -good, inex/mid Popular DOC, local DOCs also used: light/medium(-body), medium(+)acidity Bardolino DOC, Bardolino Superiore DOCG Lake Garda (cooling), light bodied red/rosé: 35-80% Corvina, 20% Corvinone Up to 95% Corvina is now allowed, 15% Molinara Yields 91 hl/ha, ABV 11% for Superiore (+0.5), Chiaretto rosé medium salmon Bianco di Custoza Between Verona and Lake Garda, easy drinking Trebbiano, Friulano, Cortese Dominated by Italian market Lugana DOC Vineyards in Lombardy, bottled in Veneto: Turbiana = Verdicchio, citrus/hazelnut/saline, best in oak
513
Trentino
Moderate continental, mountains shelter from wind, Lake Garda and valley floor moderate temperatures: good/v. good quality, inexpensive to mid priced (some prem) Cold air from mountains: diurnal range, freshness Winemaking: Soft press, stainless steel, low temps (12-16) 75% white: PG, M-T unoaked 80% cooperatives (Cavit has 60% of wine, PICA system), 10% estates Yields: white 100 hl/ha, reds 90 hl/ha Indigenous grapes: Teroldego Rotaliano DOC, sandy gravel in north (Vini delle Dolomiti outside of geographical area) Stem drying, mildew resistant, clones 145+152 aromatic Pergolas (yield) and Guyot Marzemino: Ziresi zone of Trentino DOC, sun+calcareous clay/basalt Botrytis, powery mildew, shift from pergolas to spur/cordon Lagrein: Bitter finish, short maceration/oak: rubino/dunkel, rosato/kratzer Poor fruit set, low yields, needs warmth and sun Moscato Rosa: Rose aroma, sweet wines: appassimento or late harvest Poor fruit set, botrytis – premium wines Nosiola: Hazelnut, Vino Santo premium semi-dried (dry wines mid-priced) Valley of the Lakes is warmest region: spring frost, mildew, sour rot Winemaking: 12-16 cool for whites, moderate 17-20 for reds, 1 week skin Premium 26-32 degrees, small oak Law: Bianco min. 80% Chardonnay/Pinot Bianco, Rosso: Cabs, Carmenere Single varietal 85%, two-varietal 50-75% of first-named Rosato from Lagrein, Enanto, Schiava (only Lagrein as monovarietal) Moscato Rosa Liquoroso: 85% Business: Small holdings (1.2 ha), grower focused Trentodoc, Rotaliano and M-T are popular in Italian restaurants
514
Alto-Adige
Alpine continental climate, 300-700 m (hand harvest on slopes) Dolomites+Tramin, 300 sun days: 60% white, 40% red Soils: volcanic porphyry, quartz, Dolomitic limestone Bassa Atesina: warm south, everything but Schiava – high altitude M-T Oltradige: Lake Caldaro, Schiava: low Merlot/Cab, high pinot noir (Franz Haas) Schiava: = Vernatsch, four clones – vigorous, pergola, violet+strawberry Santa Magdalena DOC 15% Lagrein Winemaking: Fruit focus, cool ferment (12-15), fine lees 6 months/year Careful canopy management for sunburn risk Schiava 14%, Pinot Noir 10% 98% DOC wines: Bianco is Chardonnay+Pinots (min. 2, no more than 70%) Two variety: at least 15% of blend each White yield 90 hl/ha (lower than Trentino) Alois Lageder has 50 hectares, Cantina Kaltern co-op Avg. holdings 1 ha, co-ops 70% Market: 75% domestic sales, ½ local for tourism: hospitality+special retail Germany+USA, 9 markets – good/v. good quality, inexpensive to mid-priced
515
Piemonte Nebbiolo
Moderate continental, hazards thunderstorms, fog, hail and frost, 45 N (high) Low rain June to September, autumn rain in Sept/Oct Nebbiolo: early budding, very late ripening: pronounced rose, tar, violet, red plum High acidity and tannins, garnet fast Best on calcareous soils + SW slopes, Single Guyot (mechanical trimming) High training (low basal fertility) Massal selection (low vigor, small berries): Gaja Clonal research for deeper color (does this improve quality) Barolo DOCG: 200-400 m, S/SW slopes for long ripening 2,000 ha (doubled since 1980s), yield 56 hl/ha Aging: Three years two months, 18 in oak – Riserva five years two months Soil: blue grey Sant’Agata fossil marl, Tortonian – NW La Morra, drink early Yellow grey sand + clay in SE (Serravallian, Serralunga d’Alba – long aging Multi-vineyard blends: Bartolo Mascarello, single vineyard: Gaja Single vineyards such as Cannubi, Cannubi Valletta – v.good/outstanding, prem. Menzioni Geografiche Aggiuntive 2010: villages/vineyards/groups (Terlo) Barolo Chinato: Sweetened Barolo wine w/herbs Barbaresco DOCG: 1/3 area of Barolo, lower altitude: harvest 1 week earlier Riper style, same yields: 2 years for regular, 4 years for Riserva (9 months barrel) MGAs such as Martinenga introduced in 2017 – v. good/outstanding, prem Traditional wine: 3-4 months on skins, 5-8 years Slavonian botti Modern style: 3-4 weeks on skins, ripe seeds, large oak or French mix Roero DOCG also allows Nebbiolo (95%, same for Bianco w/Arneis) Gattinara, Ghemme DOCG: continental, 300 m: light bodied, intense Valtellina in Lombardy, 750 m – blended w/local varieties Langhe Nebbiolo/Nebbiolo d’Alba DOC: young vines, less extracted Neutral aging for one year, also used to declassify Small, family-owned, limited consolidation Buying grapes: Fontanafredda in past, now estate bottling typical Exports: 85% Barolo and 75% Barbaresco, to US/Germany/UK, Scandinavia Collectors + en primeur, named sub-zones
516
Piemonte Other
Barbera: Asti, Alba and Monferrato (Asti + Nizza sub-zone best) – good/v.good, inex/mid Early budding (frost), vigorous, disease resistant but fan leaf Hard pruning for quality, variety of sites: traditional frizzante Now still, medium tannin/high acidity, red plum and red cherry Giacomo Bologna: French oak, aging capacity Barbera d’Asti DOCG: 63 hl/ha yield, 4 months aging Nizza DOCG: 49 hl/ha, 18 months aging, 6 in oak Piemonte DOC: 84 hl/ha Dolcetto: Early ripening, cooler sites, fragile + fungal, low vigor and cold Decreasing due to difficulties and popularity of Nebbiolo Reductive: pumping over or rack and return for oxygen Moderate fermentation temps, short skin contact (1-2 weeks) Soft extraction then steel/cement - good/v.good, inex/mid Dolcetto d’Alba DOC: 63 hl/ha Dolcetto di Ovada DOC+Dogliani DOCG: 56 hl/ha Med(-) acidity, med(+) tannins, red cherry and floral Cortese: High yield, light intensity: lemon/apple, white flower, med. Body Thin skin, grey rot: mid-range temp w/some skin contact Gavi/Cortese di Gavi DOCG: 100% Cortese, 67 hl/ha, Riserva 45 Gavi di Gavi DOCG: 100% Cortese from municipality La Scolca is producer – good quality, inex/mid priced Arneis: Light intensity, chamomile, flower, peach, loses acidity = med(-) Oxidation in winery, Roero Arneis DOCG: yields 70 hl/ha, Vietti Law: No PGI in Piemonte (many varieties in DOC)
517
Tuscany Overview
Warm Mediterranean, adequate rain (700-800 mm), altitude for cooling Autumn and winter rain, hot summers: frost, hail, harvest rain, drought+heat Duke of Medici delineation in 1716, Barone Ricasoli Sangiovese 1872 (Malvasia) 1932: Chianti extended, historical Chianti Classico named Sharecropping – low quality incentives, aristocracy and foreigners after WWII Sassicaia 1968, Tignanello 1971: new French oak (vino da tavola) DOCs created in 80s and 90s, Chianti Classico DOCG 1996 Sangiovese: early budding, late ripening, high tannins+acidity, pale, vigorous, yield Red cherry, plum, herbal, frost + rain, botrytis, esca (pruning), boar (fence) Grown from 200 to 550 m (prolonged season for maturity) Well-draining shale/limestone as well as clay, cordon/cane + VSP Historical: 30 days on skin, large oak 3-4 years, now 1 week to 1 month Trebbiano Toscano: late budding, vigorous, yield, downy+eutypa High acidity and neutral, being replaced by red Blending grapes: Canaiolo Nero for red berry, floral, light tannin (fruit) Colorino for color, international such as Merlot/Cab Sauv (too dominant?)
518
Chianti
CHIANTI DOCG: no oak required, Riserva is 2 years aging – 63 hl/ha Min. 70% Sangiovese, max. 15% Cabernets – acceptable/v. good, inex/mid CHIANTI RUFINA DOCG: Smallest, cool @ 300 m, 56 hl/ha, wind from Apennine pass Lack of investment means lower quality standards (potential) – mid-pr., good/out Selvapiana and Frescobaldi, Riserva has 6 month oak aging requirement CHIANTI COLLI SENESI DOCG: Largest, warmest: min. 75% Sangiovese, max. 10% Cabs CHIANTI CLASSICO DOCG: Yield 52.5 hl/ha, historical center 200-500 m(varying aspects) Galestro friable marl (acidity, aging), albarese calcareous clay (structure, body) (Drainage and water-retaining capacity are balanced) Release 1 year after harvest, Riserva 2 years (no oak) -v.good/out, mid-prem Min. 80% Sangiovese (typically 90% w/Canaiolo/Merlot) Vineyard names can go on label, villages cannot Gran Selezione 2013: Single vineyard/estate, 30 months aging, min. 90% w/indigenous grapes, organoleptic characteristics, 13% ABV, 4.5 g/l acidity
519
Brunello di Montalcino Docg
100% Sangiovese, 54 hl/ha, 2000 ha (200 producer) Monte Amiata rain protection (drier/warmer than Classico, benefits from aging) 5 years, 2 in oak (Riserva 6 years, 2 in oak) - outstanding, premium Rosso DOC = 1 year, declassified (2014): Biondi Santi every year mid, good/v. 1865 by Biondi-Santi family, expansion in 1970s with Banfi Galestro in cool north, clay in warm south Mediterranean breezes, altitude 120 m to 500 m
520
Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG
70% Sangiovese (Prunolo Gentile) 56 hl/ha, planted 250-600 m on E/SE slopes of clay and sand soil Two years aging, one in oak (Riserva 3 years, 1 year in oak, 6 months bottle) Mid-premium price, v.good/outst
521
Morellino di Scansano DOCG
250 m altitude, sea winds moderate | 63 hl/ha, 85% Sangiovese – medium(+) acidity/tannin, good/v. good, inex/mid
522
Bolgheri
BOLGHERI DOC: 1983, 63 hl/ha w/1 year aging – 1200 ha: Bordeaux (80%), white, rosé High acidity, medium(+) tannins, blackberry/red plum Sea winds, cool nights: up to 400 m and lower, irrigation and cordon-spur VSP High density (6,000 hl/ha) competition/cost Up to 100% Cabs/Merlot, max. 50% Syrah/Sangiovese (other max. 30%) Rosso Superiore: 56 hl/ha, 2 years w/1 in barrel – v. good/out, premium Rapid growth, 10 producers own 70% of vineyards, Consorzio represents 90% BOLGHERI SASSICAIA DOC: Tenuta San Guido, estate: 80% Cab, 18 months 225l oak MAREMMA TOSCANA DOC: 77 hl/ha, half Sangiovese, followed by Cab/Vermentino Le Pupille is significant producer – inex/mid priced
523
Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG
Italy’s first DOC in 1966 200-400 m: sun + drainage, dry windy summer, 10% Sauvignon B./Riesling Sandstone slopes, mid-late ripening 30% sold locally, 50% export to US, Germany+Switzerland DOC for Sangiovese etc. – inex. – mid price Yield 63 hl/ha tourism, consorzio carbon footprint
524
Tuscany Business
TOSCANA IGT: min. 11% ABV, Solaia (Antinori Cabs/Sangiovese) – inex./mid 2/3 of production from DOCGs: CC – Chianti – Brunello lead value Co-ops 14% in Chianti, much lower in other regions Chianti DOCG 1/3 Tetrabrik, highest selling wine in Italy (volume and value) Half of wine in bottle, supermarkets and deep discounters Export: 80% Chianti Classico (US 1/3)+Montepulciano (Germany, Switzerland) 70% Chianti (Germany, US, UK)+Montalcino (US, Canada) Marketing: CC+Montepulciano historical, Bolgheri+Montalcino world-class Tourism and anteprima (Chianti lovers) for pros, opening up to wider audience Supermarkets/bars for inexpensive, better restaurants/specialist for premium
525
Vin Santo DOC
Chianti min. 70% Malvasia Bianca Lunga/Trebbiano Toscano Chianti Classico min. 60%, 2 years in barrel Montepulciano 3 years barrel, Pulcinculo allowed up to 70% Dried, loft storage w/fluctuating temp.: dried fruit, nut, volatile Sweet, high alcohol, high acidity – premium price (time+small batches) Occhio di Pernice: 50% Sangiovese in Chianti/Montepulciano, 80% in CC Avignonesi, min. 6 years barrel
526
Marche Whites
Adriatic Sea to Apennines, Sangiovese + Montepulciano 20%, Verdicchio Inexpensive, mid-priced: warm Mediterranean, low coastal hills (W Ancona continental) Limestone/clay soils Verdicchio: unfruitful first buds, low density, late ripening + high yield, all mildews Blossom, apple, fennel, almond, bitter, med. body, high acidity (med- intensity) MLF avoided for inexpensive, 4-6 months steel (Riserva MLF for creamy, old oak) Castelli di Jesi Verdicchio DOC: Floral and fruity, hills w/of Ancona (clay + limestone) 98 hl/ha, Classico Superiore 77 hl/ha – Riserva DOCG 18 months aging Verdicchio di Matelica DOC: Apennine foothills, continental (longer season) Sandstone/fossils: higher acidity and fuller body, Riserva DOCG 18 months Pecorino: basal buds sterile, high alcohol, early ripening, high acidity Apple, pear, thyme, mint, medium body -growing in popularity Offida Pecorina DOCG: growing popularity, 12-18 months oak common Can also be sold as Marche IGT Offida Passerina DOCG has +0.5% min. alcohol Passerina: late ripening, loses acidity, ripe lemon/yellow apple Biancame+Trebbiano Toscano: fresh local grape for easy drinking
527
Marche Reds
Montepulciano: Powdery mildew, reductive (aeration/pumping over) Uneven ripening raises sorting cost or lowers quality Deep ruby, red cherry to black plum, medium/medium(+tannins) and body Rosso Piceno DOC: 35-85% Montepulciano, Sangiovese (adds acidity) Rosso Piceno Superiore DOC: Higher quality, 13 Ascoli Piceno townships, +0.5% alc. Offida Rosso DOCG: 24 months, 12 in barrel, 13% ABV, 85% Montepulciano Rosso Conero DOC/Conero Riserva DOCG: 85% Montepulciano, Riserva 2 years/1 wood
528
Marche Business
IMT (Marchigiano Tutela Vini): ¾ of denominations, 80% of exports Umani Ronchi exports 70%, 1/3 of region exported by value: US/China/Japan Verdicchio suffering from competition with Pinot Grigio
529
Umbria
Warm, continental-ish, 800 mm of autumn/winter rain (hazard/late harvest), organic Grechetto di Orvieto: Thick skin, late harvest, resists downy mildew High acidity, medium body, low intensity lemon/white flower Sagrantino: Moderate yield, 220-470 m for full sun Hazards: spiders on fuzzy underside, lobesia botrana, mildews High acidity, v. high tannins, blackberry/red plum Orvieto DOC: 60% Grechetto/TT, same altitudes as Sagrantino 77 hl/ha, Superiore is 56 hl/ha (March after harvest) -acc/good, inex/mid Vendemmia tardiva, muffa nobile (16% potential ABV) Montefalco Rosso DOC: 77 hl/ha, 60-70% Sangiovese, 10-15% Sangiovese 18 months aging, 30% other grapes Sagrantino di Montefalco DOCG: 100% Sagrantino, 52 hl/ha, 33 months (1 year wood) Single vineyard, 13% ABV – Arnaldo Caprai Spinning Beauty French barriques Consorzio Montefalco: weather station, disease threat Growth 4x this century = 650 ha (like Barbaresco) 60% export (US, Germany, Canada) – v. good/out, mid-premium
530
Abruzzo
Warm continental hillsides, warm Mediterranean flat+fertile coast for volume Tradition: pergola+low density (2,500 vines/ha) Trebbiano Abruzzese: Mid-late ripening, vigorous, high yield (pergola shade), powdery Trebbiano d’Abruzzo DOC: Either Trebbiano, 98 hl/ha, protective and MLF blocked Cool fermentation, steel - Valentini makes super-premium example Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo DOC: 85% Montepulciano, color used to be deeper Any rosé method (short maceration, direct press, saignée): high anthocyanins Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOC: Two styles, can be 15% Merlot/Primitivo Hilly sites: 98 hl/ha, subzones 66 hl/ha, 18 months (Casauria 100% Montepul.) Riserva+sub-zones require 9 monhts barrel age, Colline Teramane DOCG: 2 years, 1 in wood – 90% Montepul, Riserva 3 years Business: 40 co-ops produce ¾ of wine, inexpensive export to North Europe/America Cantina Tollo: exports 1/3 of its production DOC wine can be bottle outside of region (criticism) inex./mid (oak), DOCG premium
531
Lazio
Warm Mediterranean, low hills/sea wind: frost, hail, heat, harvest rain 70% white wines (Malvasia/Trebbiano), Falesco produces quality Malvasia Bianca di Candia: Neutral, light body, medium(+) acidity, yield + resistance Subject to oxidation (protective handling, fining) Malvasia del Lazio: Muscat of Alexandria x Schiava Grossa (grape/peach, acidity drops) Popular in 60s, dropping due to difficulty (Malvasia Puntinata) Cesanese: Late ripening, high yield, medium tannin/acidity, cherry/rose Slopes up to 600 m for fresh fruit/acidity Cesanese del Piglio DOCG: min. 90% Frascati DOC: 70% Malvasias, 30% TT and Bombino Bianco, Greco: 105 hl/ha (diluted) Cool fermentation quick release -acc/good, inex-mid Frascati Superiore DOCG: 77 hl/ha, 1 year aging (20% of region), good/v good, mid Castelli Romani: more white than red, 120 hl/ha w/Malvasia/Trebbiano/Verdicchio Inexpensive local drinking: Cesanese di Affile DOC, Olevano Romano (65-70 hl/ha) Business: High volume harms reputation, vines drop 15% Exports 60%, co-ops 20% - US, Canada, Germany Local demand in Rome, tourists - Casal Pilozzo quality
532
Campania
Warm Mediterranean, 200-600 m slopes (frost pockets, rainy autumn) Hills: limestone/clay, volcanic tuff/pumice/sand @ Naples, Alluvial Sannio/Beneventano Local varieties, often monovarietal – DOCGs all on limestone and clay Falanghina: 2nd most planted, workhorse (resistant but grapes shrivel) Mid-late ripening, peach and herb, unoaked, med(+)acidity, acceptable/v. good Falanghina del Sannio DOC (1/3 of plantings), Campi Flegrei, 84 hl/ha – lower alc. Greco: Low-yielding, drought-resistant and heat tolerant, rot and mildews Harvest long, 1st week October Greco di Tufo DOCG: Limestone, clay: 70 hl/ha, high alcohol, oily, floral/smoke 5% of plantings, min. 85% Greco, max. 15% Coda di Volpe – v.good, mid/prem Fiano: Mildews, thick skin protects from botrytis, late ripening (mid-late October) Floral, peach, hazelnut, wax, med/(+) acidity, 70 hl/ha, max. 15% Coda di Volpe Sandy soils for lighter wines, clay for fuller body (Avellino DOCG limestone) V. good/outstanding, mid. prem Aglianico: early budding, late ripening: vigorous, yield control, botrytis High acid/tannins, Med(+) rose, red plum, blackberry – slopes for longer season Spur/cordon, medium density: some mechanization Taurasi DOCG: 85% Aglianico, 70 hl/ha – 3 years, 1 wood (Riserva 4, 18 months) Harvest end October/early November, 50% export (USA) V. good/outstanding, mid. prem Piedirosso: pale ruby, med(+) acidity, red plum/cherry, dry/windy (600 mm) less mildew Thick skin, open bunches: less botrytis, softens Aglianico or easy drinking Campi Flegrei DOC, Vesuvio DOC: 50% Piedirosso, max. 30% Aglianico Sandy soils: no grafting needed – mid/Premium Ischia (also Garnacha), Capri as well BUSINESS: Irpinia DOC: Avellino province (GrFiAgl 50), Sannio DOC: Benevento province La Guardiense co-op (1,000 members) 15% of Benevento wines Export growth double Italian average in past 10 years
533
Basilicata
Warm Mediterranean, IGT or ‘vino’ dominate production, >45% Aglianico, irrigation not allowed – French barriques increasing Aglianico del Vulture DOC: 100% Aglianico, clay/limestone/volcanic lava ash soils East of Monte Vulture, 1 year aging, 70 hl/ha – volcanic soils drain, limestone retains Altitude up to 600 m, Balkan breezes, Elena Fucci Superiore DOCG: 52 hl/ha, 3 years aging/1 oak (Riserva 5 years, 2 in oak), d’Angelo Very good to outstanding, mid-premium price Export half (USA/China/Japan/North Europe), Generazione Vulture for promotion
534
Puglia
ot Mediterranean, sea breezes (surrounded): fertile soils, irrigation, volume (dry) 15% Sangiovese/Primitivo/Negroamaro Primitivo: High yield, uneven, early budding/ripening: frost, drought/poor flowering Looser bunches/more resistant than California, old vine bush, low density Jammy/dry fruit, med acidity, med(+) tannins, all quality levels 7-10 days maceration for cheap wines, 6 months in steel/old oak EU vine pull, popularity of California Zinfandel – Gianfranco Fino in Manduria Primitivo di Manduria DOC: 85% Primitivo, 63 hl/ha: Riserva 2.5 aging, 9 in wood, 14% Gioia del Colle DOC: 50-60% Primitivo w/Montepulciano/Sangiovese/Negroamaro 10% Malvasia Nera, 52 hl/ha, Riserva 2 years (no wood, 14%, 250-500 m hills producer: Polvanera Negroamaro: High yield, drought resistant, alcohol and body to cooler wines Salice Salentino DOC: 75% Negroamaro (90% on label) 84 hl/ha, Riserva 2 years (6 wood), black plum/cherry, med acidity, med(+)tannin Rosato popular (Leone de Castris), wines good/v. good, inexpensive-mid-price Nero di Troia: Late ripening, downy mildew, uneven (long season, multiple passes) Red cherry/redcurrent, fine-grained high tannin, good/v. good, mid/prem Rivera Castel del Monte DOC: 91 hl/ha, Riserva DOCG 70 hl/ha, 2 years/1 wood Business: 60% vino, <10% PDO, Cantina Due Palme (1,000 members), Tormaresca Antinori
535
Sicily
Warm Mediterranean island, Etna microclimates, low rainfall (irrigation) Med. temp fermentation for large production white wines Catarrato: >30%, high yield+resistant – lemon/herb, high acidity, inexpensive, acc./good Grillo: Catarrato x Moscato – overexposed bunches lose aroma, high yield/resistance Oxidation, full body, lemon+floral -good/v. good, inex./mid Inzolia (Ansonica): Early ripening, drought resist, medium falling acidity/body Used in blends w/higher acidity wines acc.good, inexpensive (Valle dell’Acate) Alcamo Bianco DOC: 60% Catarrato, 84 hl/ha (40% other, Müller-Thurgau) - west Moscato (Zibibbo): Pantelleria, sun/drying winds, all styles, low bush vines in holes: Dry (steel), late harvest (1 week later, stop ferment), passito (sun-dried/semi) Portion of fruit picked early, dried 1 month and blended w/ripe (15% ABV) V. good/outstanding, premium/super-premium (Donnafugata all styles) Nero d’Avola: Late ripening, close to ground, vigor (canopy): powdery, uneven flowers Medium/deep ruby, cherry/black plum, med/(+) acidity, med(+)/high tannin DOC yields 70-77 ha, also IGT/wine – low yield can be v. good/outst, mid/prem. Cerasuolo di Vittoria: 50-70% Nero d’Avola, 30-50% Frappato (strawberry/herbal, 52 hl Nerello Mascalese: Early budding, late ripening, coulure, powdery, botrytis Etna, 400-1,000 meters (deleafing timing), short maceration (Graci longer) Cherry/violet, high acidity, med/high tannins Etna Rosso DOC: 80% Nerello Mascalese, 20% Nerello Cappuccio (color/red berry) 10% white grapes allowed, best fr. old 100-year vines - v. good/oust., mid/prem Slopes = manual labor, 56 hl/ha yield, Riserva 4 year (1 in oak), large neutral oak Carricante: Etna Bianco DOC min. 60%, up to 100% for quality – high altitude, fungus MLF typical, old oak for texture Law: Sicilia DOC 2011 (white 94 hl/ha, red 84 hl/ha): bottling not required in area at first Grillo+Nero d’Avola popular Business: Private companies: Planeta, Donnafugata, Settesoli co-op has 7% (6000 ha) Bulk wine typical (20% bottled), Assovini Sicily 80% by value, promotion Nero d’Avola boom in 1990s, short-lived: Etna Rosso specialist retail/bars
536
Sardinia
Warm Mediterranean, low rain – NW sufficient, SE needs irrigation – altitude Warm libeccio and scirocco winds are drying, less fungal Cannonau di Sardegna DOC: 77 hl/ha, 63 hl/ha Classico: Riserva 2 years, 6 oak – 30% Classico – 2 years, 1 oak (Ogliastra province), 90% Cannonau Vermentino: Early-budding, mid-ripening, downy, moths, sunny site w/poor soil Gentle pressing, skin contact, 3-4 months on fine lees -15% Vermentino di Sardegna DOC: 112 hl/ha, Vermentino di Galllura DOCG: NE, 63 hl/ha Carignano: 10%, low-fertility soils moderate vigor Carignano del Sulcis DOC: Bush vines (required for Superiore category) Irrigation allowed but not after veraison, good/v. good, inex/premium 77 hl/ha, Superiore 52.5 hl/ha (2 years aging, for Riserva as well) Quality wines: 15 days, warm ferment (extraction), 12-18 months in French oak Business: Bulk wine, funding from region and EU for co-ops, local grape Monica Nera Vineyard area reduced w/EU removal subsidies 2/3 of wine is PDO, Cantina Santadi (Giacomo Tachis) significant co-op Exports stable, Sella & Mosca for Cannonau
537
Argentina Environment
Vineyard management companies like Napa valley due to label shortage Low latitude+high altitude = intense sun, UV: more tannins/anthocyanins High diurnal range (>20 degrees), continental climate <200mm rain El Niño: higher rain, hail: 2016 destroyed 25% around country, 40% Mendoza Alluvial soils: high calcareous middle gravel/silt, low loamy/clay Andes rain shadow, warm zonda wind – vineyards from 500 m to 1,000m+ gentle slopes Poplars grown as windbreakers – netting for hail only on prized sites 200,000 ha (100,000 pulled in vine pull scheme), 30% older than 40 (Malbec/Semillon) Frost is a problem in flat areas/bottom of slope, at all altitudes 70% flood irrigation (old channeling systems) – phylloxera protection, free-draining Drip irrigation growing: cheaper on new sloped vineyards (or only boreholes available) Sustainable given water shortages in La Rioja, San Juan, Mendoza Large amounts in winter (replicate rain), low amounts in growing season (root growth) Parral pergola traditional, for Torrontés in warm areas (shade for acidity retention) Also for high-vigor Criolla grapes VSP becoming more common (canopy management, drip irrigation) Sandy soil and arid climate mean phylloxera low risk, but nematodes/drought = grafting Organic and biodynamic ideal due to dryness (practices growing, certification low) Hand harvest traditional (casual labor): cost of living rising, so mechanical harvest grows Clonal selection work by Nicolás Catena, and harvest timing – single vineyard increasing New areas (higher altitudes, further south, closer to Atlantic)
538
Argentina History
Spanish planted grapes 1550s, Argentina independence 1816: European immigration 1851: school/research center, grapes arrived before phylloxera (Europeans followed) Criolla grapes: Cereza, Criolla Grande/Chica – sustained by high domestic consumption Consumption falls in 70s: export focus in 80s and 90s w/open economy Foreign investment and consultants (Michel Rolland, Alberto Antonini) Weak peso in 2000s made for cheap wine on export markets: Malbec (fluctuations)
539
Argentina Law
IP (Indicación de Procedencia): Large geographical areas, not whole country IG (Indicación Geográfica): Certain quality level in specific quality area DOC: specific area with legally defined winemaking criteria: Luján de Cuyo+San Rafael Region (Cuyo) – Province (Mendoza) – Sub region (Uco valley) – Department (San Carlos) District (La Consulta) – GI (Paraje Altamira) GI/DOC: only grapes from area, 85% for vintage or variety (same for blend) Reserva: 12 months for reds, 6 months whites Gran Reserva: 24 months for reds, 12 white
540
Argentina red grapes
Criollas are 20% (Cereza 2nd planted), red grapes >50% Malbec: Vigorous, mid-ripening, 20% of plantings – high soft tannins, full body Smaller berries/bunches, softer tannins than French – range of quality/price 45,000 ha planted, cooler sites are fresher/floral, med(+)tannins Bonarda: Late ripening, high yielding (San Juan+warmer Mendoza) – large/old oak Fruity and deep color: blending w/Malbec or Cabernet Sauvignon - >85% domestic Cabernet Sauvignon: Extreme temp and fungus more a problem than for Malbec Premium wines blended w/Malbec, Argentinian lacks herbaceous character Syrah: San Juan and Mendoza, full body + high alcohol Tempranillo: medium body, red fruit, oak spice Merlot: Bordeaux blends, on decline Pinot Noir: Patagonia and high Uco Valley Cabernet Franc: Quality potential alone or blended w/Malbec, Petit Verdot/Tannat European tradition: large oak barrels, oxidation – switch to modern w/investment Later harvest, temp control, new oak barrels (oak flavors and full bodied) Now: earlier harvest fresher fruit, lower alcohol, whole bunch, concrete eggs, blending
541
Argentina white grapes
White wine: Pedro Giménez (10,000 ha), neutral inexpensive for domestic High altitude and earlier harvest, cooler ferment: fruity, high acidity, lower alcohol Torrontés: Riojano, Sanjuanino, Mendocino – Riojano is Muscat Alex. x Criolla Chica Mid-budding, early-ripening: over ripens (high alcohol, bitterness) Lowered yields, early harvest, temp control: fruity, less floral, lower alcohol Cafayate (Salta) is main region, or high Uco – drunk young, some oak for best Can be blended w/Sauvignon Blanc, or made into sweet late harvest wine Chardonnay: Uco Valley, ripe stone fruit/tropical but still med(+)/high acidity Sémillon+Chenin Blanc, cheap domestic – Sauvignon Blanc+Viognier growing
542
Mendoza Overview
75% of vineyard area, 2/3 of production, 62% black, 22% pink GI for entire province and many smaller are being recognized – 33-34 N Five divisions: North, East, Central, Uco Valley, Southern – often blended North and East: low (500-700m), irrigation from Mendoza+Tunuyán Rivers Large volume inexpensive, some quality from low-yielding Tempranillo+Bonarda
543
Central Mendoza
‘Primera Zona’, longest history (headquarters to many still) 600-1,100 m: Malbec, Cab Sauvignon, Syrah and Tempranillo Luján de Cuyo: SW of Mendoza city, 900-1,100 m (>50% Malbec, old vines) DOC Luján de Cuyo: 24 months aging, 12 oak (not typical, usually only Malbec) GI Luján de Cuyo: contains smaller GIs, i.e. Ugarteche Las Compuertas: highest, fruity full bodied Malbec/Bordeaux Diurnal range for med(+) acidity, firm tannins (aging), elegant Cha/SB Agrelo: Lower clay soils, riper fruit, full bodied Semillon (Catena w/Chenin) Maipú: to East, SE of Mendoza, 600-900 m, old vines Higher alcohol+softer tannins, full bodied Malbec Catena’s Angelica Vineyard still has flood channels (oldest) Low sites: inexpensive wines, or quality Cab Sauv, Syrah, Temp/Bonarda
544
Uco Valley
Tunuyán River valleys, 850-1,500m+ for Malbec and premium whites Higher latitudes and altitudes: cooler, slower ripening – deep color + ripe tannins Vineyard area nearly doubled this century (foreign+domestic investment) Los Helechos brand controlled by FeCoVita Modern technology due to investment: drip irrigation common GI Valle de Uco across three departments, each has own GI Tupungato: base of Mt. Tupungato volcano: Malbec, Cabs, Pinot Noir/Char/SB La Carrera is other high sub-region Gualtallaray: long narrow strip 1,100-1,600 m, limestone soil (GI in process) Lighter body, higher acidity Malbec, herbal (blend w/Cab Franc too) Adrianna Vineyard White Bones, Catena Tunuyán: Wider altitudes, fruity low or Pinot Noir and white at highest Clos de los Siete from Vistaflores Viña Cobos (Paul Hobbs) in Los Arboles – dry farming San Carlos: Old vines, Malbec/Cab. Sauvignon, Syrah in lower sites, frost issues GI Paraje Altamira: alluvial fan, calcareous w/stony topsoil (80% sand Catena) 1,100-1,200 – fuller bodied than Gualtallary, but good aging
545
Southern Mendoza
San Rafael: 200+km south of city, lower: 450-850 m but south=cooler/long season Hail is hazard, Diamante and Atuel Rivers, Sauvignonasse Not as prestigious: med body, red fruit Malbec/Cab Sauv/Syrah/Bonarda Chenin Blanc is signature, well-balanced and fruity DOC less common on labels than GI
546
San Juan
Less than 1/3 of Mendoza, 600-1,500 m – pink grapes in low areas (vines dropping) Syrah double area of Malbec, high altitude Pedernal Valley 1,250-1,500 near Mendoza Zonda, Tulum valleys, Petit Verdot/Tannat, ¼ of production (Moscatel)
547
La Rioja Argentina
3rd largest – high-volume inex. Famatina Valley: Torrontés, Cab, Malbec, Syrah La Riojana co-op = largest Fairtrade producer in world, ‘La Rioja Argentina’ for exports
548
Salta
Calchaquí River valleys: irrigation water, altitude 1,500-3,000+ and latitude 24-26 Intense sun, high anthocynanins/tannins, zonda wind for thicker skin/concentrated Malbec: herbal/floral, med(+) acidity, also Cab, Bonarda, Syrah, Tannat GI Cafayate: 1,700 m, in south of province, unoaked El Esteco Old Vines 1945 Torrontés
549
Patagonia
Latitude 38-39, altitude 400 m = longer season, rain less than 200 mm irrigation Pinot Noir, Cab Franc, Merlot, Sémillon, Chardonnay, Riesling (still Malbec above all) Winds lower disease pressure, can cause damage: poplar trees protect Río Negro: 100-year history, old vine Sémillon, Pinot, Malbec Upper valley 180-270 m: also Merlot + Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc Chacra bodega by Sassicaia producers (32 Pinot Noir, old vines Rio Negro) Neuquén: Newer this century, small number by Neuquén River (expansion difficult) Riper, more arid: Malbec, Merlot, Pinot + Sauvignon Blanc Chubut: hares and frost in far south Vineyards used to be apple/pear orchards
550
Argentina Business
13 million hl (5th largest), 2.8 million hl exports: USA 22% by volume, 1/3 value UK, Spain, Canada, Brazil (MERCOSUR free trade) – boom fallen since 2012 Inflation increasing costs, low yields 2016(El Niño)+2017(frost) Foreign ownership restrictions placed, lifted 2016 80% of production consumed domestic (fallen 75% in last 50 years) 60% of export is monovarietal Malbec Wines of Argentina: Malbec World Day showcases diverse range (danger of focus) Purchase power decreasing: consumers buying less but better quality 60% of vineyards<5 ha, family owned – grape selling to producers COVIAR Strategy 2020: promotion domestic+export Catena Zapata or Familia Zuccardi have become largest FeCoViTa and Grupo Peñaflor (Las Moras) – high volume Investment comes from France, Spain, Italy, also Chile Chapadmalal in Buenos Aires: Gewurztraminer, Riesling, Albariño
551
Canada Overview/Vineyard
12,500 ha under vine, extreme continental lakes=disease pressure, snow can provide insulation Largest producer of Icewine in world (German immigrants 1970s) Vinifera brought in 1950s, focus from 1980s US-Canada trade deal in 1989 put pressure on quality Canada had prohibition for 11 years from 1916 but wine exempt Vineyard Modern technology/techniques, microclimates (precision viticulture) VSP for air flow, also Lyre and GDC in fertile soils Pests: moths, mealy bugs, leafhoppers, birds, deer, bears Short season: May to late August, harvest weather unpredictable Geotextiles in cold areas or hilling up
552
Ontario
7,000 ha, shores of Lake Erie and Ontario, 41-44N – ripe fruit, high acidity Soils: limestone from ancient seabed by lakes, clay, sand and gravel 90% of Canada’s Icewine, mostly Vidal Equal parts red and white wine, 4% rosé Riesling: Dry to sweet, citrus/peach/floral Chardonnay: med(+)/high, apple/citrus/peach Cabernet Franc: red plum, green pepper, herbal, usually oak, can be Icewine Blends w/Merlot for med. tannins, dark fruit Pinot Noir: red cherry, strawberry, med. body Gamay Noir: light body, fresh red fruit Producers – Bachelder, Norman Hardie Inniskillin also makes sparkling icewine Lake Erie North Shore Shoreline as well as islands i.e. Pelee Island, water all around Shallowest lake (quicker spring warming, faster autumn cooling) Still subject to winter freeze, warmest of Ontario (ripe Bordeaux reds, less structure) Prince Edward County Eastern end of Lake Ontario, surrounded by water – west winter wind, freeze Limestone plateau w/stony topsoil to radiate heat, burgundy grapes v. high acidity
553
Niagara Peninsula
80% of Ontario vineyards, mostly slope up escarpment or by lake Lake and slope give warm air in winter, cool air in summer Cold SW winds in winter, north-facing escarpment protected (ridge warmer) Regional appellations rule: 85% from there, rest from Niagara Peninsula Sub-appellations 100%, i.e. Twenty Mile Bench Niagara Escarpment Coolest on peninsula, benches + north slopes (not lake or ridge) Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Cabernet Franc and Riesling Niagara-on-the-Lake Warmer, less diurnal range, longer season (riper) but same grapes Also grows Bordeaux blends
554
British Columbia
4,200 ha: Pacific area (cool maritime) and continental 400 km island, 48-51N limit Long summer days, diurnal range, ripe but acidic wines 2/3 vines removed in vine pull scheme, 50/50 red and white Merlot: fuller body/alc./tannins than Ontario Pinot Noir is elegant and on the rise Cabernet Sauvignon: Intense fruit, high tannins/acidity Pinot Gris: Most-planted white, dry to off-dry, med. body, med-high acidity Chardonnay: Medium body, riper than Ontario Mission Hill: drone, geier machine, full restaurant Oculus flagship Lunar New Year package, Bordeaux blend half Merlot, ¼ new oak VQA rules: 95% from appellation, rest from BC Similkameen Valley Rocky valley along Similkameen River, winds funneled from tall mountains 400-500, higher diurnal range here: Merlot/Cab./Burgundy Vancouver Islands, Gulf Islands, Fraser Valley Cool maritime, mild winters: fungal disease, Pinot Noir – Cowichan Valley Vancouver
555
Okanagan Valley
85% of production (range of climates, 250 km long) Soils: glacial deposits, loams w/sand in south – irrigation required Lakes incl. Okanagan Lake (northern half), not as much influence as Great Lakes Dry climate, only 300 mm rain in south + 400 mm in north – organic viticulture Cold winters, vine burying not needed Altitudes of 300-600 m for diurnal range Slopes: north and east for Burgundian, Riesling, Gewurztraminer Southern slopes: Merlot/Cabernet Sauvignon/Syrah, full body+high alc/acidity Golden Mile Bench sub-GI on west side has cooler temps
556
Icewine
Harvest at -8 C, hand or machine (labor hard to find, cold nights) Ontario: 35 Brix at press, 125 g/l finished product, min. 7% ABV Fermentation stops naturally at 9-11 ABV, 200-250 g/l sugar, high VA+glycerol Vidal largest volume, Riesling best quality (Cabernet Franc also) Yield 10% of still wine (damage, dehydration, animals) Icewine is 58% value, 13% volume of export Trademark of Canadian Vintners Association, must be: Naturally frozen, vinifera/Vidal, Canadian-grown, min. sugar No artificial concentration or addition of sugar
557
Canada wine law
Ontario VQA 1988, BC 1990 Vintners Quality Alliance wines must be: Grapes from that province, only vinifera or permitted hybrids Minimum must weights, chaptalization limits Double testing w/sensory evaluation and lab analysis Varietal: 85% (EU), two varieties must add up to 95% 2018, imported blends “International blend from domestic and imported grapes” Canadian grapes that are not in VQA are Product of Canada
558
Canada business
Domestic consumption dominates: growing demand for importation 1.5 million l export: China, USA, Korea, Japan Icewine 850,000 l/year Small vineyards, estate-owned, grow grapes and buy in (BC VQA “Estate bottled”) Growers are entering production, winery numbers are rising Monopoly makes sale difficult: Liquor Control Board of Ontario, Société des Alcools du Québec Cross-province shipping is difficult, wine tourism is key Ontario: no importation from other provinces British Columbia: “In-person” importation, but no shipping
559
Austria Overview
High acidity dry white, sweet white, local red grapes Cistercian monks in 10th-12th century brought Burgundian wine culture, made terraces In 15th and 16th century, area expanded to 150,000 ha (3x modern) Decline: Turkish invasion, taxes, popularity of beer, phylloxera+mildew First wine laws in 1900s (hybrids forbidden) Exports from Burgenland in 70s and 80s Wine scandal 1985: diethylene glycol antifreeze (increase volume, simulate sweetness) Drop from 30 million l to 5 million l export – now 53 million l, value 3x Austrian Wine Marketing Board established 1986 to change image
560
Austria Climate
Cool continental – rainfall from 450 mm in Weinviertel to 850 Steiermark Weinviertel has cool north winds Steiermark has warm Adriatic, Burgenland warm Pannonian, Danube has cool Alps Hazards: frost in many areas, hail in Steiermark, winter freeze not typical Water stress for thin draining soils (irrigation required)
561
Austria Soil
1) thin soil on rock (granite/gneiss, crystalline Urgestein), 2) richer loess Riesling on thinner soils (less water then GV), Grüner on loess/clay Limestone and schist in Leithaberg hills, volcanic in Steiermark/Kamptal
562
Austria Vineyard
Lenz-Moser cordon 1.2-1.4 m (high/wide) 1980s (low maintenance, mech.) Now cane, single-double Guyot + VSP (better for high quality) Machine harvesting flatter Weinviertel/Burgenland, hand work in Wachau Terraced vineyards take 3-5x the time to work 14% of vineyards are organic, 9% sustainable – low rainfall during season Max. yield 67.5 hl/ha (avg. 49 hl/ha): focus on high quality wines
563
Austria Grapes
2/3 white, Zweigelt is most-planted red Grüner Veltliner: 1/3 of plantings (14,000 ha), clay and loess for water Vigorous (canopy), thick skins (careful w/contact), rotundone, mid-ripening Range from simple citrus (acc/good) to citrus/peach/age (vgoo/premium) Zweigelt: 14%, Sankt Laurent x Blaufränkisch, yield, earlier ripening Vigorous (leaf removal/canopy), potassium deficiency (withering), no rot/frost Medium(+) acidity, medium tannins: red cherry, acceptable to very good Welschriesling: Steiermark fresh dry, inexpensive (acc/good) – decline BA+TBA near Neusiedlersee, vgood/outst+premium (also Sekt) Blaufränkisch: high acidity, med(+) tannins, deep color+black fruit Early budding, late ripening (Burgenland), thick skins (Neusiedlersee fog) Yields must be controlled, otherwise struggles to ripen (green flavors) From good mid-priced unoaked, to vgood/outst w/spicy oak, premium Riesling: 4% of plantings, prestige: Niederösterreich, warmest thin soils Dry, full bodied, medium alcohol, stone fruit/tropical – vgood/outst, premium
564
Austria Winemaking
White wine: preserve fruit, short skin contact (aromas), neutral fermentation Temperature control to avoid loss of aromas, no MLF (low pH+varietal character) Fine lees 6 months + for quality producers, experimentation Red wines: large open-top fermenters, punchdown or pump over Stored in stainless steel, large old oak (soften tannins w/out oak flavor) Acacia for white and red: oxygenation without spice
565
Austria Wine Law
German and Romanic (Districtus Austriae Controllatus on the rise) Wein – no geographical indication Landwein – PGI wine – first two categories are 10% of wines Qualitätswein – PDO wine, government inspection + inspection no, 15° KMW Klassik: declared vintage, varietal character Reserve: min. 13% ABV, harvested and released later Prädikat levels based on must weight, Kabinett is under Qualitätswein DAC (regionally typical Qualitätswein) created 2002, Weinviertel – now 15 Restricted varieties (typicity), tasting panel (excludes new wave) Hierarchy of Gebietswein (regional), Ortswein (village) + Riedenwien (vineyard) Qualitätswein min. 9% ABV, 4 g/l acidity Prädikatswein min. 5% ABV, 17 KMW
566
Österreichische Traditionsweingüter
1992, group of producers in Kam/Krem/Wach/Vie Vineyards classified Burgundian, soil+climate – 81 Erste Lage selected 2019 1ÖTW on label (two most traditional varieties), 1e 60 hl/ha, Ge 50 hl/ha Riesling/GV in Kamptal, WGS+WB in Wien, Blaufränkisch in Carnuntum
567
Wachau
North bank Danube (reflect) steep S terraces for max. sun (night heat stone) 460 mm rain, irrigation (controlled), humidity can cause noble rot Riesling on gneiss, Grüner Veltlines on loess – only monovarietal Very good to outstanding quality, premium price, Domäne Wachau Wachau DAC introduced 2020 – hand harvesting, single-vineyard R+GV, no oak Vinea Wachau classification of vineyards (Ried Achleiten), dry 9 g/l styles: Steinfeder: Fruity, 11.5% ABV – lightest style Federspiel: concentrated, 11.5-12.5% Smaragd: min. 12.5% ABV, ripe fruit and concentrated
568
Kremstal
East of Wachau, town of Krems: warmer influence of Pannonian plain Lenz Moser and co-op Weingut Stadt Krems Dry Grüner + Riesling, med(+)/high acidity, med/full body (good/outst,mid-prem) Red wines (Zweigelt) label Niederösterreich, south of Danube: good/v.good, mid
569
Kamptal
Kamp River, Langenlois town: >50% GV, then Zweigelt+Riesling Similar temp/sunshine to Kremstal, less humidity (little botrytis), north of Danube Warm breezes from Pannonian plain (black), cool air Bohemian Massif Diurnal range means high acidity, v. good/outstanding + premium Mid-priced good Niederösterreich Zweigelt, some v. good oaked Bründlmayer, Schloss Gobelsburg
570
Wagram
North and South of Danube, gentle hills, strong Pannonian warmth, not DAC Loess soils for Grüner, also Roter Veltliner (no relation) – white full-bodied nutty Klassik and Reserve style, Eiswein/late harvest – good/v. good, mid/premium
571
Weinviertel
Largest in Austria, ½ Grüner Veltliner, 400-600 mm of rain Cool breezes for high diurnal range (peppery and high acidity) DAC only from Grüner Veltliner, Reserve min. 13%, can some oak/botrytis (dry) Good/v. good, inexp./premium – Sohm, Kracher
572
Thermenregion
Near Vienna, warm Pannonian air, 50% black grapes, no DAC High-quality reds from Pinot Noir/Sankt Laurent (med- body, med tannins, cherry) Good/v. good quality, mid priced, often aged in oak for spice Whites: Neuburger (spicy and floral), Rotgipfler (full-bodied peach) Zierfandler (aromatic peach, honey, spice)
573
Neusiedlersee
Eastern shore of lake Neusiedl, flat/warm/humid (water up to 30) Lake warm in autumn, fog on closest vineyards (humidity) but warm sun Noble rot every vintage: very good/outstanding TBA, Zweigelt away from lake TBA: sweet, high acidity, marmalade, no oak: hand harvest, premium, aging DAC is for red wines, sweet labeled as Burgenland, med acidity/med/full body Reserve: min. 60% Zweigelt, blend w/Blau/PN/SL, oak typical Good/very good, mid/premium: Krutzler dry, Alois Kracher TBA sweet
574
Leithaberg
Ausbruch TBA around Rust, 20% Blaufränkisch (hills for diurnal range) DAC for red or white: 85% Blaufränkisch, oak aging – med+-high acidity (very good/outstanding, premium) White DAC: Blends or varietal Weissburgunder, Char, GV, Neuburger (good/very good, mid-premium, medium-high acidity, medium body)
575
Mittelburgenland
Burgenland: Flat and warm, Hungarian border – Pannonion plain, 55% black Blaufränkisch, Zweigelt, Grüner Veltliner (too warm), Welschriesling (botrytis) South of Leithaberg, >50% Blaufränkisch DAC: stainless steel/large oak, 85% Blaufränkisch, 12.5% ABV DAC+Vineyard: higher min. alcohol, oak cask/barrique, 13% ABV (max. 13.5%) DAC Reserve: higher alcohol, longer maturation, large oak/barrique (13% ABV) DAC mid-priced, good/very good – Reserve full bodied, very good/outstanding Familie Gesellmann
576
Steiermark
Styria, SE Austria bordering Slovenia, steep hills + terraces, diurnal range Cold winters (winter freeze), spring frost and hail (netting) Crisp dry whites: Welschriesling, Sauvignon Blanc, Weissburgunder (high acidity) Good to very good, mid priced – immediate drinking Vulkanland Steiermark DAC, Südsteiermark DAC + Weststeiermark DAC Regional wines many varieties, Ortswein+Riedenwein Sauvignon B. and WB
577
Wien
DAC for Wiener Gemischter Satz, field blend of 20 varieties, dry/unoaked Vineyard site can be named (then not dry), light body/med(+)/high acidity Acceptable/good quality, inex/mid priced
578
Austria Business
Fragmented (4,000 estates): decline in small estates, increase of >5ha Hospitality >1/2 of all sales, Heurigen for domestic sales – simple inns/taverns Domestic wine dominates retail: 2/3 of all wines purchased Bulk production way down, bottling up 20% export (Germany <1/2), Switzerland and US – Germany >50% by value
579
Chile Overview
Silvestre Ochagavía Echazarreta: 1851, vines + French winemaker from Bordeaux Experimental nursery in 1830s (boon for phylloxera, Europeans look to Chile) Early 20th century: lots of cheap wine mid-20th century: Chile isolated, domestic demand declined - 1/2 of vines pulled by 1980s País used to be most common grape, 75% has been pulled up New areas: Casablanca, San Antonio, Limarí Traditional regions rediscovered: Itata, Maule Elquí Valley around 30S (vineyards also exist in Atacama, as well as Cautín to south) Pinot Noir clone 9 and 16 for warmer vintages ``` Rootstock Ramsey (V. Champini) for nemadotes ``` Wines of Chile Sustainability certificate: water management, but also fair employment 2025 strategy: 6% increase of value Cornerstores: Innovation (R+D Center), image, diversity, sustainability
580
Chile Climate/Soil
Warm Mediterranean north to south, long and dry (cooler and wetter in south) El Niño brings rain (2-10 years), La Niña brings drought: vintage variation Cordillera roughly 300-800 m in altitude Humboldt Current from Antarctica Gaps in cordillera allow fog and breezes to enter, slopes provide aspect Soil Alluvial river valleys are fertile soil - clay, sand, silt, gravel Slopes: less fertile, cordillera has gravel w/sand and silt, Andes is volcanic granite
581
Chile Vineyard
137,000 ha (increased in 90s and 2000s, now declined) Production between 9 and 13 million hl Intense sun for high tannins/anthocyanins, minimal fungal disease Sustainable/organic common 85% of vineyards are irrigated (except Itata, sometimes Bío Bío/Maule - old vines and rainfall) Where does water come from? Melting snow from Andes, or aquifers in Casablanca VSP training, no phylloxera but grafting now common to protect against nematodes Although mechanization is easy, machine harvest is low
582
Chile Grapes
Cabernet Sauvignon is most planted by far (40,000 ha) Sauvignon Blanc has 15,000 ha Confusion: Carmenere called Chilean Merlot, Sauvignon Blanc actually Sauvignonasse Top 4 grapes = 60% of production, but diversity is increasing (Rhone varieties, Riesling, Gewurztraminer) Cabernet Sauvignon Finest wines: single variety or blend (Merlot/Carmenere/Syrah) Full body, high ripe tannin, mint/eucalyptus, spice from some new oak Best sites near Andes, control vigor and retain acidity Also used for cheap wines in Central Valley, less structure Merlot Inexpensive Central valley exports, medium body and dark fruit Fuller bodied styles with riper fruit also made Carmenere Identified in 1994 (confused w/Merlot), more common in single variety now High tannin, medium acidity, black fruit, herbaceous and coffee or chocolate Ripening two/three weeks later than Merlot, warm sites otherwise herbaceous dominates Too much ripening = high alcohol Clonal selection/site selection/harvest dates, less extraction and new oak Syrah First planted in mid-1990s, increasing rapidly Peppery in San Antonio/Casablanca, black fruit in Colchagua Valley Pinot Noir Red fruit and herbal, in Casablanca and San Antonio Sauvignon Blanc Limarí, Casablanca and San Antonio: high acidity, citrus/tropical and wet stones/herbaceous (less/oak) Chardonnay Limarí, med+ to high acidity, citrus and stone fruit (tropical in Central Valley)
583
Chile Law
1995: DO system created: Five regions Atacama, Coquimbo, Aconcagua, Central Valley, Southern, later Austral 2011: Distinction between Costa, Andes, Entre Cordilleras (slow uptake) DO requirements: 75% of grapes from region (or 85% for export to EU) Varietal: 75% of that variety (or 85% for export to EU) Minimum alcohol of 11.5% ABV Other terms have little meaning: Reserva + Reserva Especial min 12%, Reserva Privada/Gran Reserva 12.5% and 6 months oak
584
Chile Business
4th largest export, 70% of production is exported (9.3 million hl) Low value per volume (only Spain and South Africa are lower) Wines of Chile aims to promote premium wines Domestic consumption is low, 2.3 million hl Free-trade agreements with China and South Korea (China is largest export market) USA, Japan and UK are also important, South America (Brazil) has MERCOSUR 80% of wine is by four companies: Concha y Toro, Santa Rita, Santa Carolina and San Pedro (wine boom of 1850s) Large companies own vineyards and buy grapes Torres Lafite Rothschild and Jackson Family Wines attracted: cheap land, low costs (importation offset) MOVI: Movimiento de Viñateros Independientes
585
Coquimbo
Tradition: Pisco and table grapes Since 1990s, high-quality 3 DOs: Elquí, Limarí + Choapa Low latitude (30S) means intense summer and sunlight: mountains and Pacific cooling Humboldt Current brings fog but no rain (Atacama Desert, 100 mm rain) Reduced snowfall in Andes is threatening irrigation Difficulty of access means small production, premium wines
586
Elquí
Follows Elqui River from coastal plains to hills and Andes foothills No coastal mountains, fog reaches further in Syrah and Sauvignon Blanc where fog affects Highest vineyards up to 2,200 m, intense Syrah, Rhone varieties, Malbec Viñedos de Alcohuaz: around 2,000 m of altitude, granite soil Syrah blends w/foot treading in lagars, concrete eggs, Tococo 100% syrah in foudres
587
Aconcagua Valley
Wider use of Andes/Entre Cordilleras labeling 250 mm of rain in center, irrigation needed Full-bodied Cab. Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah, Carmenere Producers moving away from valley floor at either end Aconcagua Costa gives fog and ocean breezes for Sauvignon Blanc/Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and cool Syrah Aconcagua Andes: up to 1,000 m, air descends mountains Errázuriz: Aconcagua Costa 'Las Pizarras' (slate soil), also make Costa Syrah in Northern-Rhone style
588
Casablanca Valley
Only extends 30 km inland: hills to north and east trap cooling air from ocean Spring frost is still an issue (this is one of Chile's coolest regions) White wine: Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay Also Pinot Noir with herbal notes, Syrah with peppery in warm spots Nematodes make grafting necessary First coastal region boom in Chile
589
San Antonio
Undulating hills with ocean influence, varying levels of exposure Sauvignon Blanc with high acidity, medium body, citrus/herbaceous/wet stones Pinot Noir, Syrah, Chardonnay Recognized in 2002 Infertile thin red clay on granite Lo Abarca, Casa Marín region recognized 2018
590
Leyda Valley
Only planted in 1990s, close to coast with foggy mornings and bright afternoons Same four as San Antonio
591
Cachapoal Valley
Northern part, warmer (isolated from coast): warm valley for Cab. Sauvignon, Carmenere, Syrah Peumo has concentrated Carmenere in Cachapoal River valley (funnels wind from coast, less frost) Best Cabernet Sauvignon/Syrah in cool east Andean foothills Peumo: Torres Cordillera de los Andes Carmenere
592
Colchagua Valley
Larger than Cachapoal, stretches from Pacific to the Andes Center of valley has hilly areas for some quality Apalta is a south-facing amphitheater, captures cool wind, S slopes, poor soils Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Carmenere Western coast: Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay + Pinot Noir Just east of coastal ranges, moderate Syrah and Carmenere Baron Rothschild Le Dix de los Vascos Cabernet Sauvignon Marchigüe area near coast, cooler - Polkura (yellow granite) Maniac Syrah on south slopes, NNE-SSW row orientation to prevent sunburn - Polkura is a Certified B Corporation Apalta horseshoe valley, sandy and clay loam with granite on slopes - Montes Folly Syrah
593
Central Valley Chile
Majority of production, south of Santiago Fertile irrigated plains Producers on valley sides, coast reach premium prices Only high volume wines labelled as Central Valley
594
Maipo Valley
Surrounds Santiago, home to many wineries launched in 19th century (continuous plantings) Cabernet Sauvignon on valley floor, cassis and mint Carmenere, Syrah produced in quality, whereas Merlot is for inexpensive Mountains all around, new plantings up to 1,000 m: - Alto Maipo w/Puente Alto and Pirque, elegant Cab. Sauvignon and Bordeaux blends Concha y Toro Don Melchor, 100% Cab. Sauvignon from Puente Alto (2/3 new oak for 12-15 months) Errázuriz Viñedo Chadwick - used to be 100% new oak, now 80% (some Petit Verdot)
595
Curicó Valley
Inexpensive high volume reds, rivers for irrigation water Not much shelter from coast Range of grapes: Cab. Sauvignon, Sauvignon Blanc, Merlot and Chardonnay Torres Manso de Velasco Cabernet Lapostolle Cauquenes Vigno Carignan
596
Maule Valley
More vineyards than anywhere in Chile (lots of high volume) Climate like Curicó, but slightly cooler and more rainfall (more south) Dry farming for quality, wines are lighter in body and higher in acidity Old vine País and Muscat of Alexandria, 100 and 200 years old Good País now with medium acidity, spice, strawberry, low to medium(-) rough tannins (gentle) Carignan introduced in 1940s, revival w/VIGNO (promotes old vine dry farmed Carignan, Cauquenes) Rasberry, cherry, black plum, medium/high acidity/tannins
597
Southern Region Chile
Coastal hills diminish going south, climate cooler and wetter Bio Bio has >1,000 mm of rain, cool summers - fungal disease (ocean breezes and canopy management) Longer days due to higher latitude Malleco Valley Few producers, Burgundy and Sauvignon Blanc - high acidity Cono Sur Reserva Especial Riesling Osorno and Mechuque island for experimental plantings
598
Itata Valley
Used to be cheap grapes for blending, now revival (tinajas) Old bush vine (75%) Muscat of Alexandría and Pais Old vine Cinsault, licorice and red black fruit Newcomers plant international grapes (Chardonnay/Pinot Noir, Merlot/Cabernet Sauvignon) Escape route for climate change Ancient Moscatel from conquistador Pedro Parra Imaginador Cinsault on white granite
599
Bío Bío valley
Dry farmed old bush traditional varieties | International varieties, Burgundian but Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling and Gewurztraminer
600
France Overview
Wine planted in Greek colony of Marseille, then Roman, then brought from Italy Expansion from south under Charlemagne (800) and monasteries after 1,000 CE Draining of Medoc by Dutch engineers in 17th century Area under vine drops 1/3 from 1970 to 2010s due to vine-pull schemes Vineyard management: High-density trellis vines are the norm Cane replacement Guyot with VSP Certified organic is now 10% (quadrupled in last decade) GRAPES 110,000 ha of Merlot (more than all of Germany's vineyard plantings) 80,000 Ugni Blanc + Grenache (Ugni Blanc grown for Cognac/Armagnac) 60,000 Syrah Carignan is still in top ten varieties planted INAO (Institut National de l'Origine et de la Qualité) 1935 AOC Rules include: yield limits, geographical boundaries, rootstock, training systems, grape varieties, planting densities, earliest date of sale, maturation length) Since 2009, grape variety can be included on the label Business 40% of wine made by co-ops Holdings at 10.5 ha are much higher than Italy/Spain/Portugal/Greece Consumption in decline (1/2 of 100 years ago) 3/4 of sales are through small/mid-sized companies or private label (fragmented)
601
New Zealand Overview
Climate: Cool maritime 1819: First vines planted by Samuel Marsden, 1840 James Busby makes first wine Industry inhibited until 1960s Sale of Liquor Act 1989: supermarkets can sell wine Fortified wines dominated first half of 20th century Croatians founded wineries in West Auckland, Hawke's Bay Dairy industry hygiene standards helped during transition 38,000 ha, 2.7 million hL of exports (more than 60% Sauvignon Blanc)
602
New Zealand Environment
Latitude 36-46 (climate variations): cool in South, warm in North Southern Alps on South Island protect against wind from Tasman Sea Marlborough rain: 650 mm UV radiation 40% than Northern hemisphere: ozone hole and low pollution Canopy management: otherwise vegetative growth shades fruit - VSP with two canes is typical - Scott-Henry with four canes in some high-volume production - High yields = problems ripening in cool vintage - Fruit trained high (ground reflection of sun not wanted) - Easier for hand harvesting - Low densities (2,000-2,5000 vines/ha) but high yields (70 hl/ha) - Machine harvesting common - Hazards: humidity (North Island), birds (eat + also damage), cyclones - Alluvial soils and winds mean irrigation still practiced, windbreaks placed - Sunburn is issue, leaf positioning protects Sustainability widespread, only 5% organic (Central Otago 175)
603
New Zealand Law
Geographical Indications Act of 2017: protects regional names overseas (18 names) Reciprocal for international wines like Prosecco 'Appellation Marlborough Wine'2018: entirely grown in Marlborough w/maximum yield, sustainable, bottled in NZ: only SB
604
New Zealand Business
Expansion in early 2000s then debt in 2008: consolidation of 40% in next decade 19 companies have sales above 2 million litres, 73 mid-sized (200,00 to 2 million), 624 small (less than 200,000 litres) 3 million hL produced, domestic consumption 1/6th of that Supermarket, hospitality, specialist wine retail 85% use cellar door, though digital retail now more important NZ produces 1% of world's wine, but is 7th exporter by value and 10th by volume UK, US and Australia Bulk shipping for 1/3 of exports 98% of producers in SWNZ 86% of production is Sauvignon Blanc (too much reliance?) -exploration aiming to introduce different styles Wine labels focus on environment (quality and eco-friendly) New Zealand Wine: coordinates marketing campaigns (America's Cup) Promote wine to sommeliers
605
New Zealand Grapes
Sauvignon Blanc has 62% of plantings, Pinot Noir close to 15% Experimentation is key given low regulation SB: Low temp fermentation, stainless steel, cultured yeast (increase aromatics) MLF avoided to preserve acidity, oak + lees avoided Chaptalization sometimes practiced at start of fermentation Ascorbic acid + SO2 ensure freshness
606
NZ Sauvignon Blanc Vineyard
- Light, water, canopy management = ripe fruit - Diurnal range = intense fruit flavor w/high acidity - Row orientation, canopy management = tropical on sunny side, grassy in shade - Early picking for herbaceous - Mechanical harvesting = some skin contact (higher methoxyprazines)
607
NZ Sauvignon Blanc Winery
- Protective treatment against oxygen (refrigerate fruit) - Yeast strain (e.g. Anchor Vin 7 which promotes passionfruit, gooseberry) - Low temp, stainless steel = primary fruit - Avoid malolactic, minimal lees (2-3 months), ascorbic acid, SO2, screwcap More producers using barrel ferment, lees stir, MLF, oak, ambient yeasts, more solids Skin contact up to 2 months for texture, aroma
608
New Zealand Winemaking Trends
Red wines: mid-range temps, cultured yeasts, neutral vessels for high volume Whole bunch experiments w/Pinot Noir and Syrah, cold maceration w/Pinot Barriques for Cab/Merlot, larger oak for Pinot Noir Range of sweetness in white wines, noble rot for Semillon + Riesling 90% screwcaps
609
Greater Auckland
moderate maritime, high humidity - Waiheke Island: Cabernet Sauvignon/Syrah - Medium/full body, black fruit - undulating landscape for shelter - West Auckland: High cost of land, fruit sourced from elsewhere - Producer: Kumeu River - Matakana: Range of varieties, local tourist trade
610
Gisborne
- 1,000 mm of rain (often during harvest), canopy management needed - Used to be largest production, dropped in last 10 years for kiwi/apple farming - Chardonnay > 50%, flat loam/clay/silt floodplain - All ranges, from simply fruity to barrel fermented and creamy - Harvest earlier than other regions (sunlight, warm north wind) - Pinot Gris - 2nd grape, dry to medium-dry, often lees stirring and oak for premium - Merlot highest black grape - Producers: Lindauer, Milton Vineyards
611
Hawke's Bay
- Oldest, 2nd largest region - cities of Napier and Hastings - 1,000 mm of rain, 2,180 sunshine hours, gravel soils = Bordeaux climate - Gimblett Gravels: alluvial, stony topsoil releases heat at night - Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon - irrigation needed, frost issue due to inland - Bridge Pa: deeper sandy/clay loam, more water retention - Merlot: Range of style, premium blended with Cabernets, 12-18 months French oak - Malbec increasing popularity - Syrah: 75% of NZ plantings in HB, just 350 ha - spicy and floral, French oak - Chardonnay: grapefruit and stone fruit, struck match - medium acidity, barrel fermentation (coastal wines have higher acidity)
612
Wairarapa
- Premium wines, 3% of vineyard but 1% of wine volume (Ata Rangi, Dry River) - Wine tourism (close to Wellington) - Martinborough known for intense Pinot Noir and less herbaceous Sauvignon Blanc - Cool maritime, large diurnal range - Winds from Cook Strait cause low yields - More tannic Pinot (small with thick skins) - Wind machines prevent frost - Sauvignon Blanc lower yielding, costs more - Soil: gravel terraces, silt loam and loess (cooling influence, slow to warm) - Pinot Noir: More than half of plantings, medium/medium(+) tannins - Abel clone from Romanée Conti, late flowering, productive - Dijon clones 667 and 777 - Sauvignon Blanc: Less herbaceous than Marlborough, some wild yeast or lees
613
Marlborough Overview
- More than 2/3 of all plantings, first planted in 1873 and launched a century later - Montana Wines bought 1,000 ha in 1973 - 650 mm rainfall - alluvial soils drain, irrigation from underground aquifers - Machine harvesting due to flat land promotes passionfruit/bell pepper aroma - 5-10x higher in machine harvesting due to skin contact
614
Marlborough Sub-Regions
- Wairau - Western end has warmer days and cooler nights, more frost risk - Former riverbed: silt, loam and clay, fertile soils near coast (irrigation needed) - Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Pinot Gris - Southern Valleys - N-S valleys, clay soils for cooling + water retention (harvest 2 weeks later) - Pinot Noir for long season of ripening without high alcohol - Awaterre - South of Wairau over Wither Hills: cooler, windier coastal high elevation - More herbaceous SB, high acidity - PN thicker skins, more deeply colored
615
Marlborough Grapes
Sauvignon Blanc - >70% of plantings, aromatic - Blending of different sites/regions for aromas, volumes Pinot Noir - 10% of plantings, growing popularity with Southern Valleys - Three styles: - easy drinking Wairau from alluvial plains light body, mid-priced - Southern Valleys clay and loess slopes, medium to full body, intense - Windier Awatere, thicker skins, floral and herbal, matured in oak Chardonnay - Unoaked medium body or complex stone fruit/oak/struck match Pinot Gris - Light bodied or full bodied honeysuckle and stone fruit
616
Nelson
- West of Marlborough, 970 mm of rain in sudden storms (similar sunshine hours) - Cool maritime climate, cooling sea breezes - Moutere Hills: clay-based gravel, sandy loam (50-150 m), dry farming - Fuller bodied, more concentrated (highest quality) - Waimea Plains: Low riverbed, alluvial silt and clay - Free-draining soils require irrigation, lighter body - Sauvignon Blanc: More restrained, sometimes barrel ferment/maturation - Pinot Noir: Waimea unoaked, Moutere Hills full bodied and premium
617
Canterbury
- 90% in North Canterbury (other region is Canterbury Plains near Christchurch) - Cool climate, hot days and cool nights (frost in spring), 650 mm - Warming dry NW winds can damage vine - windbreaks, evapotranspiration - Waipara Valley: Warmer due to Teviotdale Hills protecting against cold E winds - Valley floor is sandy loam, light bodied - N/NW slopes are clay loam w/limestone, fuller bodied - Waikari: More inland, clay/limestone soil - Just 3% of production but critical acclaim, especially for Pinot Noir - Pinot Noir: High acidity, range of bodies and red/black fruit - Riesling: esp. Waipara, ripe fruit and high acidity, dry to sweet/late harvest - Sauvignon Blanc: Range of styles, producers experimenting with wine techniques - Pinot Gris also common
618
Central Otago Overview
- Shielded by Southern Alps, 46 latitude and 360 mm of rain - Organic and biodynamic possible, irrigation necessary - Altitude usually above 300 m - Spring frosts: some producers use helicopters - Canopy management for UV and hot summer days - Gravel, clay soils are low in organic matter: compost and cover crops add structure Pinot Noir: 70% of Central Otago, 1/4 of NZ plantings, premium price - Deep color, full body, with ripe tannins, plum/black cherry, some whole bunch experiments Pinot Gris and Riesling: dry to medium-sweet (or sweet Riesling), no noble rot
619
Central Otago Sub-Zones
- Alexandra: furthest south and hottest, cool nights (harvest same), med(+) acidity - Gibbston: highest/coolest (320-420), later ripening + high acidity - site selection - Bannockburn: Kawarau River and Cromwell Valley - Warmest and driest, ripe and concentrated wines - Cromwell/Lowburn/Pisa: from Cromwell to Lake Dunstan, moraines + terraces - Bendigo: warmest sub-region, north slopes/terraces - Poor stony soil, semi-arid, continental: low yields, concentrated - Wanaka: shores of Lake Wanaka to Luggate, 290 to 320 m (cooler)
620
Waitaki
Northern Otago, launched in 2001, small plantings | - Limestone soils: Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Riesling, Chardonnay, Gewürztraminer
621
New Zealand North Island Extras
Auckland - Founded in 1900s by Croatian, English + Lebanese winemakers - Highest rainfall and humidity - Formed by volcanic activity - Kumeu clay soils, Chardonnay + Merlot blends - Waiheke Island in Hauraki Gulf: Syrah, warmer+drier than mainland - Matakana: Pinot Gris, Syrah, Cab blends Gisborne - Ormond 'Golden Slope': original plantings, limestone for premium Chardonnay - Clay, loam and limestone soils, rainfall makes for dry farming - Viognier, Gewurztraminer, Chenin Blanc - Biodynamic thriving - Manutuke: first plantings in 1890s, sandy coastal soils (clay in hills to west) - Patutahi: limestone+Gisborne clay, Chardonnay Hawke's Bay - 5,000 ha (roughly 1,000 each of Chardonnay+Merlot) - Gimblett Gravels: Omahu gravels (sand/loamy sand topsoil) - Bridge Pa Triangle: oldest soils, Te Awa clay loam (red metal underneath) - Red blends and Chardonnay - Dartmoor Valley: limestone (NW) - More than 500 ha Pinot Gris - Esk Valley near coast: Chardonnay+red blends - Havelock Hills: Syrah+Viognier - Central Hawke's Bay has more limestone Wairarapa - 1,000 ha: 1/2 pinot noir, 1/3 sauvignon blanc, ~50 ha Pinot Gris + Chardonnay - Masterton: shadow of Tararua ranges, PN+SB - Gladstone: free-draining river terraces - Martinborough: free-draining gravel up to 15 m deep, some limestone - Syrah small plantings but promising
622
New Zealand South Island Extras
Nelson - First vines planted by German settlers in mid-1800s - 1,100 ha -10% Chardonnay, 10% Pinot Gris - Gravel-threaded clay and stony alluvial riverbeds - Moutere Hills: Pinot Noir and Chardonnay - Waimea Plains: lighter style Marlborough - 20,000 ha of vineyards, more than 1,000 ha of Pinot Gris+Chardonnay, 2,000ha Pinot Noir - 2,500 sunshine hours - Diurnal range of 11 degrees - Richmond Ranges protect from rain - Wairau: Alluvial soils, coastal deep salty + silt loams - Southern Valleys: Waihopai, Omaka, north orientation, older clay soils (water retaining) - Awatere: Driest, coolest and windiest, free-draining gravels on terraces, clay+sandstone on plains North Canterbury - Calcareous loam, clay and limestone - Glasnevin has free-draining soils - Pinot Noir on limestone escarpments, Chardonnay downslope - Waikari: inland, natural north-facing escarpments, 200-300m - Limestone, lime-rich clays - premium Pinot/Chardonnay Waitaki - Planted 2001, around 60 ha (half Pinot Noir) - Greywacke/schist/limestone ``` Central Otago - Pinot Noir is 1,500 of 1,900 total ha - Schist with quartz, mica, river gravel - Free-draining, low-nutrient soils Gibbston - Kawarau Gorge, coolest sub-region Alexandra - Largest diurnal range, vibrant wines Bannockburn - South bank of Kawarau river (north-facing) - Warmer, harvest up to 1 month before - Heavy clay loams, free-draining sandy loams, schist gravels - Riesling and Chardonnay also grown Cromwell - Valley floor parallel to Pisa Mountain range Bendigo - North slopes, stony soils radiate heat at night - Aromatic white wines Wanaka - Lake protects against frost, delicate wines ```
623
French Exports
world leader in value export (50% more than Italy, 3x more than Spain) Bordeaux: 50/50 export and domestic (4 billion euro sales), 48% domesticated in supermarkets (5.80) - Exports 44% volume, 52% value: Hong Kong, China, USA, UK Burgundy: 50% domestic, 25% EU, 25% outside EU: USA, UK, Japan - Chablis: 2/3 exported, UK is biggest Beaujolais: 60% France (direct sales, specialist shops), 40% export: Japan, USA and UK (60% of exports together) Alsace: 75% of sales are domestic, export EU (BeNeDeutschland), North America Loire: Anjou-Saumur and Touraine export 20% of production - Pays Nantais 15% export, production dropped from 13,000 ha after 1991 Rhone: France sales are supermarket (32%), specialist wine (29%), discounters (6%) - 33% export: USA, UK and Belgium - More producers are making+bottling their own wine as value increases Languedoc: Pays d'Oc IGP 50% export (BeneDeutsch), domestic supermarket/hospitality Picpoul de Pinet: 65% exported (UK), tourism Roussillon: 20% export (China, Belgium, Germany) Provence: 35% export (US 1/2), huge growth this century Jura: 20% export, recent increase
624
Italy Export
40% exports (split between still/sparkling, 65% of value comes from still): 26% to USA, 18% to Germany, then UK Piemonte 85% of Barolo, 75% of Barbaresco are exported Veneto 80% of Soave exported: Germany, UK 65% of Amarone exported: Germany, US, Switzerland Friuli-Venezia-Giulia export value up 55% in past 5 years Lazio 60% exports Umbria Sagrantino di Montefalco 60% exported Basilicata export/domestic 50/50 (USA, China, Japan) Abruzzo: inexpensive wines to north Europe, north america Cantina Tollo exports 35% Campania: Export growth doubling Italian avg.
625
Portugal Export
Dão 15-20% exports: Canada, Brazil, USA and China Alentejo: 20% of Portugal's exports (Brazil, Angola, USA) Douro 1/3: Canada, Brazil and UK Vinho Verde: 35% of production is exported: Germany, USA, Brazil + France (USA leads by value)
626
Spain Export
Spain: largest volume export (~21 million hL), value less than half of Italy - 56% of exports are bulk - Export markets: France (24%), Germany (17%), then UK, USA and China (higher value) Galicia: 1/4 exports (risen from 10% - USA, then UK) Ribera del Duero: 20% exported: Switzerland, Mexico, USA, Germany+China Rueda: 80,000 hl of 616,000 hl exported: Netherlands, Germany, USA, Switzerland Rioja: 37% of volume exported: Germany, UK and US (domestic market stable, export growing) Penedes: 30% exported: Germany, Canada, Switzerland, China, US (Catalunya is 90% of domestic market) Montsant: 45% exports: Germany, US, France, Switzerland, UK Jumilla: majority exported, Yecla 95% exported
627
Germany Export
10% of production (1 million hl) exported, this has halved but price is now 300 per hl Markets: US, Netherlands, UK, Norway and Sweden (US and Norway high value) Less than 1/4 of VDP wine exported
628
Argentina Export
80% of production is domestic (consumption fallen by 75% in 50 years) 13 million hL production (5th largest in world), 2.8 million hL exported USA is main export country (22% by volume, 31% by value) Other markets are UK, Spain, Canada and Brazil MERCOSUR free trade agreement
629
Australia Export
5th largest exporter (growth since 1980s), exports 7-8.6 million hL (2/3 of production) UK, China, USA, Canada and Germany China is fastest growing, leads in value (China-Australia Free Trade Agreement, shipment to mainland)
630
Austria Export
Domestic wine dominates retail: 2/3 of all wines purchased Bulk production way down, bottling up 20% export (Germany <1/2), Switzerland and US – Germany >50% by value
631
Canada Export
Domestic dominated: increasing demand, importation high 1.5 million litres exported: China, USA, Korea, Japan Icewine 58% by value, 13% by volume of exports
632
Chile Export
4th largest export, 70% of production is exported (9.3 million hl) Low value per volume (only Spain and South Africa are lower) Wines of Chile aims to promote premium wines Domestic consumption is low, 2.3 million hl Free-trade agreements with China and South Korea (China is largest export market)
633
Greece Export
Export: 13% Export countries: Germany (~40%), Scandinavia, Benelux (cheap and falling) Quality exports: USA and Canada in 2010s, Australia and UK now Wine of Greece promotes wines + educates about grapes
634
Greece Business
Growers: 7,000 Average holding: <0.5 ha Largest producers: Greek Wine Cellars, Boutaris Group Export: 13% Export countries: Germany (~40%), Scandinavia, Benelux (cheap and falling) Quality exports: USA and Canada in 2010s, Australia and UK now Wine of Greece promotes wines + educates about grapes Greek drinkers prefer international varieties More than 1,000 wineries, mostly local or sold in bulk to co-ops/companies Co-ops established in 1920s, important until 1980s (poor quality) Samos co-op: high quality sweet
635
Macedonia Overview
- North mountains are continental, cooler - 650-700 mm of rain - Plains are warm, Mediterranean (rain shadow) - Volume production, quality in Drama + Kavala - Mostly red wine - Drama: Bordeaux blends (warmer and drier) - Chardonnay + Sauv. Blanc at altitude, full-bodied indigenous from D+K
636
Peloponnese Overview
- Peninsula, 30% of plantings (lots of raisin planting) - White grapes dominate (Moschofilero, Roditis) except for Nemea - Largest number of PDOs in Greece - Mountainous, poor rocky soils - altitude moderates - PGI Slopes of Aigialia: good wines at altitude - Patra plains, fertile soils - East wind: ocean rain, less towards interior
637
Islands
- Hazards: low rainfall, rocky soil, wind, land sold for tourist development - Cyclades - Santorini, Cyclades, Tinos - Samos and Lemnos in northern Aegean (sweet Muscats), Crete for high-quality
638
Retsina
made with pine resin (originally sealant, then additive) - late 19th century, then boom in 1960s w/tourism - Hot central plains, Salvatiano + Roditis - Resin added to must, lees for a week (more subtle now: in past, added to wine+longer contact) - Legally protected, minimum acidity and permitted alcohol rules - OKP + premium Assyrtiko examples are helping reputation
639
Greek Red Grapes
AGIORGITIKO - 3rd most planted grape, versatile styles - Reds: deep color, med. acidity, med.-high tannins, med. alcohol - Ripe red fruit (jammy), sweet spice: new oak often used - PDO Nemea XINOMAVRO - Highest reputation - PDO Naoussa - Grippy tannins + high acidity in youth, more vegetal - Pale color, quick to go garnet - Long bottle aging for leather, flowers, earthiness - More accessible modern style: fruity, less extraction, blend w/Merlot
640
Greek White Grapes
More than 70 percent of production SAVATIANO - Drought-resistant workhorse - Large volume cheap, common in Retsina - Some quality low-yield bush vines - Pear, stone fruit, citrus, nuts with age RODITIS - 2nd most planted, pink skinned, high yields - Some quality, altitude and old vine (Peloponnese) - Medium body, high acidity, melon ASSYRTIKO - Santorini and mainland (adaptable) - High acidity even when hot, high alcohol - Citrus, stone and tropical fruit - smoke and flint - Vinsanto (sweet w/acidity) - Some oak blending common MOSCHOFILERO - Pink-skinned, aromatic (citrus, rose petal, spice) - High acidity, light body, low alcohol - Some rosé - Main plantings in Mantinia (Peloponnese) MALAGOUSIA - Almost extinct 20 years ago, making comeback around Greece - Medium acidity and body, stone fruit/flower - Herbaceous in cooler areas - Various fermentation option Vidiano - apricot + bergamot on Crete Aidani - jasmine + kumquat on Cyclades
641
Greece Law
PDO=POP (Prostatevmeni Onomasia Proelefsis) 33 zones, 20% of production Native varieties only (except Muscat for sweet) PGI=PGE (Prostatevmeni Geografiki Endiksi) >120, 62% of production Less strict, international varieties allowed Wines from Greece High-volume blends, 18% OKP category includes only Retsina and Verdea (from Zakynthos)
642
Beaujolais Environment
``` Large volume (roughly same as rest of Burgundy together), 98% Gamay, some rosé and Chardonnay Terra Vitis association founded here ``` Climate 740 mm of rain (slightly more than Burgundy) Saone River moderates temperatures Cold Mistral wind affects flowering, damages grapes (Gamay has thin skin) Hills in north (200-500 m): fast-draining granite, schist, sand (Aspect: S+SE), earlier harvest Gamay Noir Early budding (frost), millerandage, rot and wind Early ripening (harvest before autumn rain) Unripe examples have green, leafy character Productive grape, yield control or bud reduction to limit fertility Bush vines tradition (wind protection), still done on steep slopes - mechanisation common now Manual harvesting typical for winemaking (necessary for semi-carbonic maceration)
643
Beaujolais Winemaking
Chardonnay Marl and limestone (cooler soils), north area bordering Maconnais Winemaking Semi-carbonic maceration typical, chaptalization, 4-5 maceration on skins (6-9 days for Beaujolais Villages) Goal: fruit flavor, color (press wine/free run blend) - aromas are kirsch, banana, blueberry Cru Beaujolais either semi-carbonic (10-20 days) or crushing and maceration w/new oak Natural wine popular: negociant Jules Chauvet, winemaker Marcel Lapierre
644
South Africa Export
Volume exports increase more than 20x, now more than 400 million liters Volume exports have exploded, more than 135 countries UK is 25% of exports, then Germany US, China and African countries are crucial for value Goal is to increase packaged wine, but bulk is winning
645
Tokaj Export
Large volumes of semi-sweet inexpensive | 40% exports, Eastern Europe, China, France, UK and US
646
USA Export
Majority consumed domestically (8th in export volume) 50 largest companies = 90% of US wine Oregon: Roughly 1/4 of production DTC: tasting rooms, wine clubs 60% consumed in other parts of USA 2.5% exported (Canada, UK, Japan) California: 26 million hL sales, 3.3 million hL export 5,900 growers, 4,800 bonded wineries
647
California Background
History: Grapes planted by Spanish missionaries for altar wine + sweet fortified, plantings increased during 1849 Gold Rush. By 1890s, high production lowered prices and endangered industry Prohibition from 1920 to 1933 decimated winemaking. 1930s to 1960s: Industry rebuilds, medium-sweet to sweet wines with European names Descriptions evolved: red table wine, then grape name + origin later 20th century: Cab + Chardonnay, technical improvements (Tchelistcheff) - hygiene and temp. 1976 blind tasting AXR1 (replanting was opportunity for site + material selection) 1990s concentrated style, now more variety and experiments/research
648
USA Business
Largest consumer, 4th largest producer 430,000 ha in more than 30 states, more than 10,000 wineries California 80%, Washington 5%, New York 4%, Oregon 1.4% Highest value import country Highest consumption, low per capita rate Majority consumed domestically (8th in export volume) 50 largest companies = 90% of US wine
649
California Viticulture
- Replanting in 1990s (phylloxera, Pierce's disease in south + increased knowledge) - Now more variety of density, training and materials (rootstock and needs) - Precision viticulture more common, machines where topography allows - Irrigation common (drought is issue) - Wildfires, spring frost are issues - California Sustainable Winegrowing Alliance: 'Certified Sustainable' - 85% of California wine is certified by various programs
650
California Climate
- Mediterranean and dry - Influences: cold Pacific + mountain ranges - California current + upwelling = colder waters than east coast - Air movement cools + reduces disease risk (can even close stomata to slow ripening) - Intense sun with low latitude - Altitude can cool but often above fog, so intense sun (color and tannin) - Central Valley = Sacramento + San Joaquin Valley for high volume
651
California Labelling
140 AVAs, large (North Coast) or small (Cole Ranch in Mendocino) 'California' label = 100% grapes from state Named county, e.g. Sonoma = 75% Vineyard name = min. 95% Estate-bottled = vineyard and winery in same AVA (has resulted in large AVAs)
652
Oregon Law
100 percent of Oregon wine must be from Oregon grapes, 95% from appellation Multi-state wines follow either law, but 100% of wine from those two states Variety: 90% without stating other 10% (California only requires 75%) Exemption for 18 varieties that are historically blended (Petit Verdot, Merlot, Cab. Franc) Estate-bottled: 100% winery AVA and fully finished at estate
653
Oregon Overview
Soil: marine sedimentary, volcanic and loess High rainfall in winter: Willamette valley gets 1,000 mm Pinot Noir is 57% of plantings Organic and biodynamic are big: 47% of vineyards are organic, 52% of all biodynamic vineyards are in Oregon Wadenswil and Pommard clones for Pinot noir, Dijon introduced 1980s (Wente and clone 108 from California too warm-climate)
654
Winemaking Sequence Inexpensive White
Harvest - machine (quicker+cheaper, at night) Transport - night/early morning, add SO2 (prevent spoilage/oxygen) Reception - limited sorting (MOG), no skin contact (save expense/time/equipment) Pressing - pneumatic press, inert/large load (low coast/oxygen) Adjustment - Acidification, chaptalization (balance, quality, adds some cost) Clarification - Flotation, centrifugation, enzymes, betonite (faster than sedimentation, less complex, solids need monitoring - fruitier and less off odors) Hyperoxidation - No, would reduce aromas Yeast - Cultured for reliable, aroma-specific, less Brett Temp - cool (12-16), stainless steel - initial investment pays off MLF - No - preserve acid, aroma Maturation - no lees (time and monitoring) - poorer quality, store in neutral steel/concrete Finishing - CMC, fining, sterile filter - no tartrate crystals, clear wine, no faults Packaging - Glass/PE/bag/can, screwcap (less oxidation, cheaper)