D5 Fortified Flashcards
(128 cards)
1
Q
What are key choices affecting style, quality and price of a fortified wine?
A
- Grape variety
- Vineyard site
- Timing of harvest
- Skin contact and extraction
- Timing of fortification
- Fortification spirit
- Maturation
- Blending
- Finishing
2
Q
What can you tell me about grape variety and how it affects style, quality and price of a fortified wine?
A
The grape variety may either provide its own aroma and flavour characteristics to the wine or be simply used as a relatively neutral base for the flavours of maturation. Structural components such as acidity and in black grapes tannin and colour are also important. Colour is in the blend of a port wine important as the style of the port defines which colour is chosen and thus which grape varieties come in the blend (Touriga nacional and Sousão)
The role of tannins in the colour stability makes medium+ or high tannins beneficial in long-aged wines. By time the tannins will integrate into the wine and provide structure and balance.
3
Q
What can you tell me about the vineyard site and how it affects style, quality and price of a fortified wine?
A
Vineyard location and climate are important influences on the base material used in the production of fortified wines. Vineyards of the Douro are scored according to factors such as location, aspect and altitude. This score determines how much port a plot can produce. Also with VDN wines the location has an influence. Where low altitude (muscat the Frontignan) produces slightly fuller wines with riper flavours than higher altitude sites (Muscat de st Jean-de-Minervois)
4
Q
What can you tell me about the timing of harvest and how it affects style, quality and price of a fortified wine?
A
In no case is botrytis desirable and so growers will look to harvest before increased risk of rain and hence humidity. Unripe fruit flavours will be avoided, but as with Palomino, the potential alcohol and health of the grape are much more important than the range of flavours.
In styles such as Rutherglen, PX and Moscatel Sherry, the grapes are typically left longer on the vine to concentrate sugars, necessary in these wines that have very high levels of residual sugar.
5
Q
What can you tell me about skin contact and extraction and how it affects style, quality and price of a fortified wine?
A
The extraction of the colour, tannins and flavour from the grape skins is a key process in the production of red fortified wines. The period of maceration for these wines is limited to 2-3 days. Wines that undergo long ageing need high concentrations of colour, tannins and flavour, the port industry has developed specialised equipment for this.
With some white fortified wines some skin contact and extraction is preferable to extract texture, body and additional flavours. For biologically aged sherries, skin contact is not desirable because of the phenolic compounds that limit the growth of flor
6
Q
What can you tell me about the timing of fortification and how it affects style, quality and price of a fortified wine?
A
Dry fortified wines are fortified after fermentation. The majority of sweet fortified wines are fortified midway through fermentation, stopping fermentation and leaving residual sugar. Timing of fortification is calculated by the desired level of residual sugar.
Some styles of sherries are made by fermenting to dryness and then add a sweetening component
7
Q
What can you tell me about the fortification spirit and how it affects style, quality and price of a fortified wine?
A
Most fortified wines are fortified with a 95-96% abv grape spirit. This is a neutral spirit and because of the high alcohol level, less spirit is needed and thus less risk of diluting the wine.
Port is fortified with a 77% abv grape spirit, this means there is more spirit needed and the spirit has a greater influence on the final wine.
8
Q
What can you tell me about maturation and how it affects style, quality and price of a fortified wine?
A
The maturation process is a defining fase in the production of a fortified wine. Some VDN’s, ruby and rose port and some white ports, leave the winery early with the intention that they should be drunk soon after release. These wines have youthful, primary flavours.
Vintage and LBV ports are released after short ageing with the intention that they improve in the bottle, these are stored for a few years in large oak vessels before bottling. Fresh fruits develop into dried fruits and tannins soften and integrate.
For fortified wines that are ment to age oxidatively are stored in small wooden vessels for extended periods of time. Oxidative ageing is often done is heated conditions, which speeds up oxidation, evaporation and further maturation. This gives aromas of nuts, caramel and dried fruits.
Biological ageing is a way of maturation where levels of glycerol are lowered (and hence body), this gives aromas of hay, apple skin, bread dough and nuts.
9
Q
What can you tell me about blending and how it affects style, quality and price of a fortified wine?
A
Grapes, must or wines from different grape varieties, vintages and vineyard styles may all be blended depending on regulations. Key aims of blending include:
- Balance
- Consistency
- Style
- Complexity
- Volume
- Price
10
Q
What can you tell me about finishing and how it affects style, quality and price of a fortified wine?
A
The majority of fortified wines are stabilised, fined and filtered before bottling to ensure they are clean and clear for the consumer.
Vintage, single quinta, crusted and some LBV’s are not filtered so they continue to develop in the bottle.
In Sherry, when named ‘en rama’, the wine is minimally or not fined and filtered. This gives the wine a more pronounced and complex style than their counterparts.
11
Q
What is maderisation?
A
This is the process whereby the wine is heated and oxidised. It is a way of maturation, known from the wines from Madeira.
12
Q
What is rancio?
A
Rancio is the term used to describe a collection of aromas and flavours that are found in some styles of wine. Typical descriptors include leather, wood varnish and strong coffee. Extraction from wooden vessels, oxidation and time play a role in the origin of these aromas.
13
Q
What are the alcohol levels in the SAT?
A
low: 15-16,4
medium: 16,5-18,4
high: 18,5 and above
14
Q
What can you tell about the history of Sherry?
A
Wines were made in Jerez even under the Phoenicians. From the 8th to the 13th century, the region was ruled by the Moorish people. Then it was forbidden to drink wine, the production however continued. From the 13th century, Jerez was under Christian ruling and domestic consumption and export grew as English, Irish and Flemish traders began to ship wines. When Christopher Columbus found America, trading began from his home in Andalusia.
The peninsular wars and the phylloxera plague were very challenging.
In late 19th early 20th century popularity rose and in 1933 the first Consejo Regulador was founded.
In the 1970s 1,5 million hL sherries were shipped and sold. Rumasa had a key part in the rise and fall of Sherry sales. The Consejo Regulador has been working very hard the past years to repair the image of Sherry and monitor its quality.
15
Q
What can you tell about the climate of Andalusía?
A
It has low latitude 36 and low altitude (0-90m above sea level). Jerez has a hot Mediterranean climate with hot, dry summers and mild, relatively rainy winters.
The Atlantic brings a cool damp wind called the Poniente. The Levante, a hot drying wind from Nort Africa, can make the climate more arid. This can make the grape transpire more en concentrating sugars. This is a problem because it can hinder the development of flor.
16
Q
What can you tell about the topography of Jerez?
A
The grapes must come from the delimited zone of 7000 ha known as the Zona de Produccion or Marco de Jerez. Grapes can be used for either DO Jerez-Xérès-Sherry or DO Manzanilla-Sanlucar de Barrameda. The Zona is split into two parts, Jerez Superior and Jerez zona. First one is the better one and makes up for 90% of the plantings.
The vineyards of Jerez are also divided into pagos, each is thought to produce wines with different characteristics than the other
17
Q
What can you tell about the soil in Jerez?
A
The key soil is Albariza, a mixture of limestone, silica and clay. The clay means that the soil is very effective in retaining and gradually releasing water during the growing season. Albariza forms a crust when dry and this helps to reduce evaporation from the soil. Higher planting densities are possible (70hL/ha). High yields are also possible as the grapes do not need to have the same concentration of flavours, the flavours come mostly from the maturation process.
Other soils are barras (more clay) and arenas (sandy) but most of plantings are on albariza.
18
Q
What are the grape varieties in Jerez?
A
- Palomino also known as Palomino Fino or Listán
- Moscatel also known as Muscat of Alexandria
- Pedro Ximénez also known as PX
19
Q
What can you tell about Palomino in Jerez?
A
This grape variety is used in all dry and sweetened style of sherry. It accounts for almost 99% of production by volume. It is mid to late ripening, well suited for dry, sunny weather and capable of producing large yields. It loses acidity quickly when reaching maturity. It is a neutral variety.
20
Q
What can you tell about Moscatel in Jerez?
A
It accounts for less than 1% of production by volume. It is sometimes called moscatel de chipiona, by the town of Chipiona around it grows on mainly arenas (sandy) soils. It is late ripening and well adapted to heat and drought. It is an aromatic variety with aromas of grape and blossom. It is generally used to produce sweet fortified wines of the same name.
21
Q
What can you tell about PX in Jerez?
A
PX is used for the sweet fortified wines called PX or Pedro Ximénez and as a sweetening agent. Its small thick-skinned grapes accumulate high sugar and are traditionally dried in the sun to further concentrate sugars. It is a neutral variety. Legislation permits it to be grown in the Montilla region and then shipped into the Zona de Produccion either as fresh or raisened grapes or more likely as a young wine. It represents less than 1% of production by volume.
22
Q
How is vineyard management conducted in Jerez?
A
It is transforming to accommodate mechanisation of pruning, harvesting and soil management. The principal training system used is replacement cane pruning, here called vara y pulgar. An increasing number of vineyards now use cordon training (single or double) with spur pruning to aid mechanisation. VSP trellising is used to aid mechanisation. Within row spacing is tight, between row spacing is wide enough to pass a tractor.
Maximum yields are 80 hL/ha, this is rarely achieved, closer 60-70 hL/ha.
Vineyards are planted on 10-15% slopes, each year after harvest troughs are made in the soil to retain the winter rain. It is called aspersia.
Harvest begins first week of august in the inland vineyards and ends second week of september on the coastal regions. This is done early to avoid autumn rains.
Grapes are picked at potential alcohol of 12%, acidity 5 g/L and pH of 3,3-3,5.
23
Q
What is primera yema?
A
This is the free run juice and the lightest pressings particularly used for biologically aged wines. Phenolic compounds are not desirable as they restrict the growth of flor. Oloroso wines are made from later pressings, but because primera yema typically makes up for 60-75 percent of the juice yield, this is also used for Oloroso. Maximum permitted juice yield is 70L/100kg of grapes.
24
Q
How is fermentation executed in Jerez?
A
It is common for must from different vineyard sites to be fermented separately to create different styles of base wines that can be blended as needed.
Mostly cultured yeast are used for fermentation at 22-26 C to reliably ferment to dryness.
Usually stainless steel is used in fermentation. Old barrels can be used to increase body.
First phase of fermentation is fast and vigorous, it takes up to 7 days. Second stage of fermentation is slower, to ferment all the sugars can take up a couple of weeks.
MLF is not desired and prevented by cooling (as SO2 inhibits flor developing).
25
What is the First Classification in Jerez?
After fermentation each batch of base wine will be tested and analysed, this is known as the First Classification. It decides whether if it will be used for biological ageing (lighter bodied, less intensely flavoured wines) or for oxidative ageing (fuller bodied, more intense wines).
26
In Jerez, what happens at fortification?
Wines meant for biological ageing are fortified to 15-15,5%, the optimum concentration of alcohol for flor to develop. Wines destined for oxidative ageing are fortified to 17%, here flor cannot develop.
Fortification spirit is 95 abv grape spirit.
27
What happens with the sherries right after fermentation?
After fortification the wines are now in the situation of sobretablas where they are stored before joining solera system. After a few months wines marked for biological ageing are tasted and analysed in Second Classification. Wines that have a full layer of flor and have remained fresh will be classified as potential Fino or Manzanilla. Those that are slightly less delicate may be marked as Amontillado and those that are more full-bodied and intensely flavoured may be marked as Palo Cortado. Then the wines enter the solera system
Maturation takes place in old wooden vessels, american oak, often 600L butts
28
What are the three municipalities in the Zona de Crianza?
Jerez de la Frontera, El puerto de Santa Maria, Sanlucar de Barrameda. With the exception that moscatel can also be matured in Chipiona and Chipiona de la Frontera.
29
What can you tell about the bodegas in Jerez?
The bodegas are designed to maintain optimum conditions during maturation. They have thick walls to keep the temperature constant and they have high ceilings to help to raise the warm air above. The small windows at te top of the building are orientated to allow cool, damp south westerly winds from the Atlantic to enter and raise the humidity levels. Thin blinds help to reflect sunlight and prevent dust and insects from entering. Floors are made from earth and wetted during summer to raise humidity.
Temperature and humidity are important to help growth and maintenance of flor.
30
Please enlighten me about the solera system!
Sherry is a non-vintage product and the solera system is a method of fractional blending that is used to maintain a consistency and quality year after year.
Barrels are grouped into sections called a criadera. Barrels of the same criadera contain wine of the same age and of different age then the other criaderas. The criadera with the oldest wine is called the solera, then the 1st criadera and so on.
The key rule is that no more than 40% of the wine from one solera system can be removed for blending and bottling each calendar year. Further rule is that any wine that is released and bottled for sale must be of a minimum of 2 years.
Not every wine reaches solera, due to price and complexity desired in the final wine.
Wines can also be blended in another solera system for further maturation
31
How does the biological ageing in Sherry work?
Biological ageing refers to the practice of maturing wine under a layer of flor. This is comprised of four strains of saccharomyces cerevisiae. The yeast strains are found on the grapes and are present in the bodegas. Flor needs an alcohol concentration of maximum 15,5%, no SO2, plenty of oxygen. Temperature of the bodega needs to be 16-20 C and humidity levels above 65%.
32
What are the influences of flor on the wine?
1. It protects the wine from oxidation and hence the wine remains pale lemon in colour
2. The flor consumes alcohol in the wine and releases acetaldehyde which gives aromas of apple (skin), hay, chamomile and sometimes a hint of bitter.
3. Flor consumes glycerol, hence the matured wine has a lighter body. And because glycerol has a sweet taste, the reduction of it gives a dry wine
4. Flor reduces the levels of acetic acid.
The nature of the flor changes in different areas of the region, from bodega to bodega and even from different stages in the solera system. This can influence the amount of alcohol consumed and the amount of acetaldehyde produced
33
What happens to flor over time?
Over time, the flor yeast reproduces and dies. The dead yeast cells fall to the bottom of the barrel and autolysis takes place, leading to savoury nutty flavours and enhances the texture of the wine.
In the solera system, each younger wine contains nutrients for the flor. This way the thick layer of flor can stay alive over the different stages in the solera system. Keeping the wine safe from oxidation.
34
How does the oxidative ageing in Sherry work?
The colour changes from lemon to gold, amber and then brown. Levels of alcohol increase slightly over time as in the bodega, water in the barrel is lost at a quicker rate than ethanol. This means other components of the wine concentrate. Glycerol levels rise and this gives the wine a fuller, rounder body. Aroma and flavour compounds increase in concentration and evolve from primary characteristics to tertiary, oxidative characteristics such as caramel and nuts.
Acetaldehyde decreases slightly, but levels of acetic acid and ethyl acetate (volatile acidity) increase slightly
35
What happens at finishing a sherry?
Most sherries are tartrate stabilised, fined and filtered. Filtration is particularly important in biologically aged sherries to remove flor yeast, so flor does not develop when the bottle is opened and there is contact with oxygen.
Alle sherries must be packaged and sealed within the three sherry towns
36
What styles of sherries are there?
```
Dry (max 5gr/L sugar)
- Fino and Manzanilla
- Manzanilla Passada
- Amontillado
- Palo Cortado
- Oloroso
Naturally sweet wines
Sweetened wines
- Pale cream
- Medium and cream
Sherries with an indication of age
- VOS and VORS
- 12- and 15-year old sherries
```
37
Let's hear it for Fino and Manzanilla, tell me all about it!
Both of these styles have undergone biological ageing. Pale lemon in colour, on the palate dry, light to medium bodied, low acidity and low alcohol. Aromas and flavours depend on the time in the solera system, but include aroma associated with acetaldehyde, bread dough and almonds.
The flor in Sanlucar de Barrameda has a thicker layer than elsewhere. It is thought that it is because of less seasonal changes in that region. In Manzanilla are however not higher levels of acetaldehyde. The difference in flor strains are the reason for this. The greater protection from oxygen and lower levels of acetaldehyde make the Manzanilla taste lighter and fresher than a Fino. The thicker layer makes that Manzanilla needs more replenishing in the solera system, this makes that small volumes of wine are released and bottled several times a year.
38
Let's hear is for Manzanilla Pasada, tell me all about it!
This labelling term describes a Manzanilla subjected to a short period of oxidative ageing. The flor may be left to die naturally by not refreshing the barrels with new wine for around a year. This wine may then enter the Manzanilla Pasada Solera System. This makes the wine a couple of years older than Manzanilla and they start to become like an Amontillado.
39
Let's hear it for Amontillado, tell me all about it!
This wine must have attributes from both biological and oxidative ageing. The wines start in a Fino solera system and then be refortified to 17% abv to kill the flor, and then be oxidatively aged in an Amontillado solera system. The cheaper ones are from the youngest criadera in the fino system and the youngest criadera in the amontillado system. More expensive wines will be matured for longer and show more complexity.
40
Let's hear it for Palo Cortado, tell me all about it!
Difficult to define! To be classified as such the wine must have aromas similar to those of an Amontillado, but the palate more to that of an Oloroso. It must have a sugar level under 5 gr/L and alcohol level of 17-22%.
Most commonly the wines undergo a few years in a Fino solera system and then enter a Palo Cortado solera system. The wines are less delicate, show more complexity than a Fino and are less able to support a thick layer of flor, so some oxidation has occurred.
Generally, a PC has undergone less biological ageing than a Amontillado, so the characteristic acetaldehyde is less pronounced. Glycerol levels are higher so the PC has a fuller, rounder body.
41
Let's hear it for Oloroso, tell me all about it!
These wines have attributes of oxidative ageing. After fermentation they are fortified to 17% to stop flor from developing. They are brown in colour and have tertiary, oxidative aromas of toffee and walnut.
42
What does en rama mean?
There is no legal definition, but generally it describes wines that have been finished and packed in a way to be the best representation of the wine straight from the barrel. For some bodegas this means not fining and filtration, for export product it usually means a light fining and filtration (large pores).
Mostly used for Fino en rama. These wines tend to be more intense and complex and sell for higher prices
43
Let's hear it for naturally sweet sherries, tell me all about it!
Once harvested the grapes are left to raisin for 2-3 weeks. The fermentation for these wines stops naturally at 4-6% due to very high sugar levels. The wines are then fortified to 15-16%, they usually mature in their own solera system.
Most common grape varieties are PX and Moscatel.
For the single variety PX the minimum residual sugar level is 212 gr/L, but it is usual to be around 450-550 gr/L. The wines are full bodied, low in acidity with aromas and flavours of raising, molasses and liquorice.
Single variety Moscatel is less common. Minimum sweetness is 160 gr/L, but in reality often 325-375 gr/L. They can either be protected from oxygen to give a non-oxidative style or mature in barrels for an oxidative style.
Both wines can be used as a blending component in a sweetened sherry style.
44
Let's hear it for Pale cream, tell me all about it!
This is a sweetened sherry. Prior to sweetening the wines must undergo a period of biological ageing. RCGM is used for sweetening. These wines have a subtle flor character. They will not be aged for long.
45
Let's hear it for Medium and Cream, tell me all about it!
Medium wines must show characteristics of both biological and oxidative ageing. Creams only of oxidative ageing. Both blended with PX for sweetening. Medium can range from off-dry to sweet, where cream is always sweet. The premium examples are made from a high proportion of well-matured Amontillado, Oloroso and PX wines.
46
Let's hear it for VOS and VORS, tell me all about it!
VOS: Vinum Optimum Signatum/Very Old Sherry: is average 20 years or older
VORS: Vinum Optimum Rare Signatum/Very Old Rare Sherry: is average 30 years or older.
Each batch is tasted and analysed in a laboratory to be aged (carbon-14 testing). As these very old wines can taste a little astringent, producers can blend in a little sweet wine, usually PX.
Only Amontillado, Palo Cortado, Oloroso and PX are eligible for these designations.
47
Let's hear it for 12- and 15-year-old sherries, tell me all about it!
These are categories of slightly lower age than VOS and VORS. They are still tested and laboratory analysed, however this is done yearly instead of per batch. Only Amontillado, Palo Cortado, Oloroso and PX are eligible for these designations.
48
What types of business are engaged in production of Sherry?
- Bodegas de la zona de produccion
- Bodegas de Crianza y Almacenado
- Bodegas de Crianza y Expedicion
49
Bodega de la Zona de Producción, tell me...
These bodegas, usually large co-operatives, press grapes and ferment the must into base wine. They need to be in the production zone, but not in the Zona de la Crianza. They are often owned by a company in the other registers. They can sell wines, but not with DO.
50
Bodega de Crianza y Almacenado, tell me...
Almacenistas, they mature wine. They must be located within the Zona de Crianza and tend to be relatively small. The wines must then be sold to Bodega de Crianza y Expedición.
Almacenistas have suffered from the decline in Sherry sales. As demand declined, shippers survived by selling their own stock, not needing extra wines. In 1996 Consejo Regulador lowered minimum stockholding for shippers from 12500 to 500L. Meaning some almacenistas could become shippers.
51
Bodega de Crianza y Expedición, tell me...
These are the shippers and are the only ones that are allowed to export or sell DO Jerez-Xérès-Sherry or DO Manzanilla-Sanlúcar de Barrameda. These bodegas must be located within the Zona de Crianza. They are permitted to mature wine and sell as the wines come from the production bodegas or the almacenistas.
Almacenistas have suffered from the decline in Sherry sales. As demand declined, shippers survived by selling their own stock, not needing extra wines. In 1996 Consejo Regulador lowered minimum stockholding for shippers from 12500 to 500L. Meaning some almacenistas could become shippers.
52
What is the function of the Consejo Regulador?
It was first registered in 1933. It maintains all the vineyard registers and sets parameters such as maximum yield and minimum alcohol levels for the base wines. It oversees stock and verifies authenticity of age-dated Sherries.
It is also a major promotional body.
53
How has the Sherry sales have been?
Sales volume of Sherry has been declining for the last four decades. Global from 56million in 2006 to 34 million in 2016
Sales of sweetened sherries have declined dramatically. Pale cream, 97% is shipped to UK.
Cream: 2006 12,5 million L to 2016 7,4 million L
Medium: 2006 11,8 million L to 2016 7,2 million L
Pale Cream: 2006 4,1 million L to 2016 2,5 million L
Fino: 2006 14 million L to 2016 7,6 million L
Manzanilla: 2006 8,5 million L to 2016 7,1 million L
Volumes of Palo Cortado, PX and Age-indicated sherries are small, but alle of these now represent a profitable part of most shippers portfolios.
Spain is the biggest sales market, UK the biggest export market, then Holland, Germany and USA.
54
What can you tell about the history of Port?
It originates from trade wars between England and France in the 17th century causing England to increase trade with Portugal. In this time Kopke's Warre, Croft, Quarles Harris and Taylor's were established as shippers at Vila Nova de Gaia.
With signing of the Methuan treaty in 1703 Portugal received lower rates of duty in England. This led to overproduction of low-quality Ports and thus lowered demand and thus oversupply. In 1756 Marques de Pombal and Real Companhia Velha fixed prices and made acces of the fortification spirit exclusive. This was far from popular but it led to raised prices and increased sales volumes.
In 1933 Instituto do Vinho do Porto was founded, responsible for the administration and supervision of the Port industry.
55
How was business and vineyards controlled in the 20th and 21st century for Port?
Instituto do Vinho do Porto and the Casa do Douro.
Vineyard parcels were graded A to I based on their suitability for producing Port. And they also control purchase of the fortification spirit (aguardente).
In the 1980s vineyard plantings were subsidised when the vineyard could receive an A or B classification.
After Portugal joined the EU, producers could source and buy their own spirit (1991).
In 1990 Casa do Douro invested in one of the largest shippers, this venture was not a succes and Casa do Douro was bankrupt.
In 2003 Instituto dos Vinhos do Porto e do Douro (IVDP) was founded reflecting the importance of both dry Douro wines and Port.
56
What can you tell about the location where the grapes for Port wines grow?
The Douro region is located in the north east of Portugal. The vineyard area follows the path of the river Douro and is divided into three sub-regions:
- Baixo Corgo
- Cima Corgo
- Douro Superior
57
How is the climate in the Douro region?
It has a warm continental climate with warm summers and freezing winters. Distance from the Atlantic and shelter from Serra do Marão to the west of the region means that vineyard area is much warmer and drier than the cities of Porto and Vila Nova di Gaia on the coast.
Baixo Corgo is the coolest and wettest region (900 mm annually). With the cooler climate, this region produces fruit for many of the inexpensive ruby and tawny ports.
Cima Corgo is warmer and drier (700 mm annually). This region is famous for producing age-indicated tawny port and vintage port.
Douro Superior is hottest and driest (450 mm annually). Here, drought is a frequent issue. This region is relatively sparsely planted, but because of flatter land which allows mechanisation, plantings are increasing.
The winding river Douro provides a range of microclimates because of varying altitudes and aspect.
58
Please enlighten be about the soils in the Douro!
The stony shallow soils of the Douro are free-draining and poor in nutrients, which limits vigour. The underlying bedrock is schist and due to tectonic movements, the schist splits vertically. The vine can penetrate deep to find water.
59
What types of vineyard layout do you know in the Douro?
- Socalcos: narrow terraces supported by walls of dry rock. Existing are protected by UNESCO, not planted new, not suitable for mechanisation
- Patamares: terraces supported by a steep earth ramp. Suitable for small tractors. Erosion is a problem. Small density plantings. Two types: Large patamares with risk of uneven ripening and narrow patamares one row and more modern technology.
- Vinha ao Alto: vertical rows up the slope, but when slope is over 40% no mechanisation can be used. Erosion is also a problem.
60
What can you tell about vineyard management in the Douro?
Vines are cordon trained and spur-pruned or head trained and cane-pruned, VSP trellising for even ripening and aiding of mechanisation. With new vineyard plantings focus is on increasing vine density, aiding mechanisation and choosing the best planting material.
Maximum yield is 50 hL/ha, but are more likely to be around 30. Viticultural hazards are spring frosts and wet weather in summer.
Harvesting is often done by hand, it is increasingly difficult to find workforce. Symington family estates has invented a suitable machine harvester for difficult vineyards. Harvest starts in Douro Superior and ends in Baixo Corgo.
61
What can you tell in general about the grape varieties used for Port?
Since 1980 the main focus has been on 5 varieties: Touriga Franca, Tinta Roriz, Tinta Barroca, Touriga Nacional and Tinto Cão.
However, many vineyard owners are experimenting with different varieties, there are over a 100 varieties permitted. Field blends are used to retain colour, acidity and tannins in the wine, even when there is a difficult vintage.
Fruit from old vines (vinha velha) is used in super-premium Ports.
62
What are the main black grape varieties used for Port?
- Touriga Franca: late ripening (warmest sites), thick-skinned, vigourour. Contributes colour, acidity and tannin, juicy red and black fruit and floral aromas
- Tinta Roriz: Tempranillo/Aragonez: early ripening (cool sites). Contributes body and deep colour. Capable of high yields.
- Tinta Barroca: early ripening (cool sites) otherwise can lack acidity, earthy flavours
- Touriga Nacional: mid-ripening with thick-skinned grapes, contributes deep colour and high tannins, retains acidity, displays black fruit and floral aromas.
- Tinta Amarela: Tricadeira: tight bunches, prone to fungal diseases, full bodied wines with concentrated black fruit and spices
- Tinto Cão: low yielding, small thick-skinned grapes, late ripening, tolerant to heat, high acidity and well ageing wines
- Sousão: thick-skinned, deep intensity of colour and capability to retain high levels of acidity
63
What are the key white grape varieties for making Port?
- Malvasia Fina: Boal: neutral wine, medium acidity, full body and honey characteristic
- Moscatel Galego Branco: Muscat blanc a petit grains: aromatic variety, often used in unaged styles
64
What are the key extraction methods used during fermentation in making Port?
- foot treading in lagares
- modern/robotic lagares
- pumping over (not that effective as in lagares)
- stainless steel pistons (pushing down and pumping over)
- autovinifiers (no electricity, use of CO2, used for lighter bodied, flavoured and coloured wines)
65
What are the details for fermentation of the base wine of Port?
Grapes may or may not be destemmed, stems can aid pressing. Fermentation of red wines is at 28-32 C, warm enough for extraction. Fermentation of white wines is at 17-22 C.
Ambient yeasts are used, there is enough and fermentation to dryness is not an issue.
66
What about fortification in Port?
Fortification spirit is a grape derived product, called aguardente. It must be of 77% abv. All port is fortified to 19-22%. A 77% spirit has more character and therefore Port has more spirity aromas. A significant amount of spirit must be used, 1L for every 4L of must.
Fermentation is stopped when reaching 5-7%, depending on final residual sugar 80-120 g/L. Wine is drained from the skins before fortification. Mass of grape skins is pressed and the pressing is blended into the fortified free run wine to provide greater colour and tannin.
Acidification is common, MLF not an option.
67
What's the history of the aguardente?
From 1967 to 1976 aguardente must be bought from the Casa do Douro. From 1976 IVP tendered the contract for the spirit, it was not high in quality.
By 1991, producers have been able to source and buy their own spirit. The spirit chosen has an influence on the style and price of the final wine.
68
What happens to the port after fermentation and fortification?
All ports spend their first winter in the Douro. During the months that follow fermentation, wines are left to clarify and racked of their gross lees. A rotary vacuum filter is often used to extract the remaining wine from the lees. In the spring, the wines are shipped to lodges in Vila Nova di Gaia. Blending is a key part and can happen at any point. It is mainly used for consistency.
69
How is, in Port, maturation carried out in general?
The climate in Vila Nova de Gaia is more suitable for maturation. The cool Atlantic influence keeps the temperature more constant. However, most producers have well-insulated, humidity controlled lodges in the vineyard area.
Most port styles are aged in oak. Depending on amount of oxidation required, the size of the vessel varies. Largest, balseiros (100,000), are used to store wine and keep it fresh. If gentle oxidation is required, pipes (600L) are used. All in old oak.
Racking is carried out during the maturation process to remove lees and prevent off-flavours.
70
What styles of Port are there?
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RED:
- basic ruby
- basic tawny
- reserve ruby and reserve tawny
- tawny with an indication of age
- colheita
- vintage
- single quinta
- crusted
- late bottled vintage (LBV)
ROSE PORT
WHITE PORT
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71
What are the characteristics of a basic ruby?
Basic ruby is medium bodied with medium tannins, red and black fruit flavours. Early drinking, not suitable for ageing. This wine is produced using protective winemaking techniques to retain primary fruit flavours.. Due to limited ageing and use of cheap spirit the wines often have simple fruity flavours and can have slightly harsh alcohol.
72
What are the characteristics of a basic tawny?
These wines may show some lightness and browning in colour, but this does not come from extensive periods of oxidative ageing. Often made with light extraction during fermentation to give them a paler colour. The fermenting must for basic tawny may be drained early, concentrating the remaining must, which can be used to add more colour and flavour to ruby port.
73
What are the characteristics of reserve ruby and reserve tawny?
These are wines of higher quality than the basic ones. Reserve tawny must be aged in wood for 6 years. There is no minimum ageing period for reserve ruby, however they must be tasted and approved by IVDP. They tend to be more concentrated and of higher quality and price than the basic ruby
74
What are the characteristics of an age-indicated tawny?
These ports have been aged for long times in wooden barrels (pipes). These vessels permit a controlled exposure to oxygen and over time, tannins soften, alcohol becomes more integrated and primary fruit flavours develop into tertiary flavours from fruit development (dried fruit) and oxidation (caramel, nuts). Clarification and stabilisation occur naturally in barrel, so these wines do not need filtration.
Age of 10, 20, 30 or 40 years can be stated on the label. The (blended) wine is tasted by IVDP to determine is the wine deemed to have the characteristics of a wine of that age.
With long ageing and frequent topping op, this is an expensive wine to make.
In recent years, the very-old aged tawny has arisen. Giving their rarity and long maturation these wines sell at super-premium prices.
75
What are the characteristics of a Colheita?
Tawny ports that have been made from the grapes from one vintage are called Colheita. They must be aged in small barrels for a minimum of 7 years before bottling. The shipper can bottle a part of the Colheita and bottle more when demand is there.
76
What are the characteristics of a vintage port?
Vintage ports are wines from one 'declared' vintage. Producers must register their intention to make a vintage port in the second year after harvesting and the young wine is approved by an IVDP panel.
As well as being the product of a good vintage, the grapes come from high quality plots.
Touriga Franca and Touriga nacional are usually key components in the blend giving it colour, tannin and flavour concentration suitable for long-term ageing.
Wines are stored in large vessels and tasted over a period of 2 years to determine if it can become a vintage port. If not, the wine still can become single quinta, lbv, crusted or even a tawny.
max 3 years in large wooden vessels before extensive bottle ageing (without fining or filtration). Small amount of oxygen during maturation in wood ensures colour stability
Young VP tend to be deep in colour, full bodied, high levels of tannin and pronounced intensity of ripe black fruit and sometimes floral notes. As they age, develop flavours of dried fruit and alcohol and tannins integrate. Very profitable for the producer
77
What are the characteristics of a single quinta?
This is a wine made from one year that is made from the grapes of only one estate (quinta), this is stated on the label.
78
What are the characteristics of a crusted port?
This is a non-vintage port that is aged in wood for up to 2 years before bottling without fining or filtration. Bottling date must appear on the label. If released after three years in bottle it can state bottle matured on the label. Considerable ageing potential
79
What are the characteristics of a late bottled vintage?
LBV Ports are wines from a single year and must be bottled between 4-6 years after harvest. These wines are bottled ready to drink. No oxidation during storing. More intensity, body and tannin than ruby and ruby reserve.
When LBV is not filtered, it has more body and can benefit from bottle maturation. Similar as crusted, when the wine has aged in the bottle for 3 years before release, the label may stat bottle matured.
80
What are the characteristics of rosé port?
Invented by Croft in late 2000s. Made from black grape varieties from the coolest sites. Must is left to macerate for only a few hours before draining and clarifying the free-run juice. Fermentation takes place at 15-16C to retain red berry flavours. The aguardente used is neutral as possible because the style of port has less intense flavours and usually little tannin compared to red ports. Bottled soon after fortification and released every year.
81
What are the characteristics of white port?
White ports a made in a variety of styles with varying degree of sweetness and oxidation. With muscatel, one makes fruity unoxidized port with aromatic fruity and floral notes. When grapes are crushed, SO2 is added and maceration takes place (chilled) for a few hours. Then drained, pressed and fermented at 17-18C. Stored in stainless steel or large oak vessels for short period. Lemon in colour, medium bodied, flavours of stone fruits or floral notes.
With Malvasia, one makes oxidised port with honeyed and nutty with age aromas. These wines spent longer time on skins and are fermented warmer 20-22C. The wines are then aged in small casks for several years. Colour can be amber or brown, flavours of caramel, citrus peel, dried stone fruits and nuts
White ports can qualify for the same labelling terms as tawny ports (reserve if aged on wood for 7 years). Than can be indicated with age (after IVDP panel) or be a Colheita.
82
What types of businesses are engaged in production of Port?
Land ownership in the Douro is very fragmented. Most sell their grapes to one of the medium or large producers or to a cooperative. Cooperatives produce about 20% of the wine, most of them sell their wine to one of the large producers. There are 5 main groups of producers that make up 80% of sales by volume.
1. Porto Cruz - Gran Cruz
2. Symington Family Estate - Cockburn's, Dow's, Graham's and Warre's.
3. Sogrape - Sandeman, Offley, Ferreira
4. Fladgate Partnership - Taylor's, Fonseca, Croft and Krohn
5. Sogevinus - Burmester, Barros, Cálem and Kopke
83
What can you tell about the IVDP?
Instituto dos Vinhos do Porto e do Douro - formed in 2003 succeeding the earlier IVP, to govern and represent the interests of wine producers in the Douro. It controls and supervises the production and trade of wines (both unfortified and fortified).
It regulates the amount of Port than can be produced in one year (the beneficio) and holds the register of vineyards as well as companies involved in wine production and shipping. It also controls the amount of Port that can be released each year, a maximum of one third of a shipper's stock.
IVDP analyses and tastes port wines for their specifications and legally defined port styles.
Plays an important role in promotion of the Douro.
84
What is the Beneficio?
The amount of port must that can be produced each year is highly regulated in a system called the beneficio. Each vineyard parcel is classified in terms of its capabilities to produce high quality fruit considering factors such as location, altitude, aspect, soil and grape varieties. A numerical value for each factor and a total letter A to I, with A the highest quality fruit. Vineyards with a rating below F cannot make port wine. Grapes are used for spirit or unfortified wines.
The amount of must that can be produced varies each year. It is agreed between the growers, producers and the IVDP. It takes into consideration market demand and current stocks. Aim of the beneficio is to keep grape and wine prices stable through its influence on balance of supply and demand.
85
What has the beneficio to do with the price for grapes?
The beneficio sets the price for Port grapes, and these prices are relatively high. This means that there is an incentive to sell lesser quality grapes within the beneficio. Retaining the best quality grapes for selling outside the beneficio, where there is no control on the price.
Many growers do not make their own port, but make their money through beneficio trading.
The system is subject of much debate, very much because the demand for Port has decreased and the beneficio is set lower. Meanwhile there are more vineyards allowed to grow grapes in the Douro for unfortified wines. The prices for these grapes are not controlled and there is an oversupply, so the prices are very low. Therefore many port producers are feeling they are subsidising the industry of unfortified Douro wine.
86
What can you tell about the port sales?
2019: Port production was 75 million L with a sale of 73 million L. Sales has been declining by volume, sales have been increasing in price due to increasing sales of premium wines.
IVDP separates port into standard ruby, tawny white and rose, and special categories which includes wines above this standard category. Special category make up for 23% of sales by volume, but 45% of sales by value.
82% of sales by volume came from export markets: France, Portugal, Holland. The sales of inexpensive ports are declining because of alternatives in aperitifs.
Movements are seen in diversifying producers, focusing producers, and the growing interest in rosé and white ports (also in cocktails). Potential is also seen in the hospitality, like Graham's 4,5L bottles
87
What can you tell about the island of Madeira?
The island of Madeira was discovered in 1419 and was first colonised by Portugese merchants and their labourers. Initially sugar, wheat and vines were the main crops after the land was made ready for agricultural use. Because of competition the wines became the main export product. It grew further in the 17th and 18th century when British merchants sent wine to their colonies in North America and the west Indies. It was found that the wine improved by long term maturing in vessels in the bottom of the ship. In the 19th and 20th centuries it was more difficult, powdery mildew, phylloxera, prohibition in the USA, 2 world wars and the russion revolution negatively impacted the wine trade of Madeira.
88
What is the most important institute of Madeira?
In 1979 the Instituto do Vinho de Madeira was founded which was succeeded in 2006 by the Instituto do Vinho, do Bordado e do Artesanato de Madeira (IV-BAM). The IVBAM regulates Madeira production.
In 1986 Portugal became a member of the EU, together with further regulations and EU subsidies, the quality of the Madeira wine improved .
89
What is the climate of Madeira?
In general, Madeira experiences warm summers (20-22C) and mild winters (16-17C). Lack of winter dormancy can be a problem in the warmest sites. There is a range of microclimates with temperatures becoming cooler with altitude. Mountains reaching up to 1800m cause moist air in the humid winds arriving from the north-west to cool and condense into rain clouds. This means the north and center of the island are considerably cooler and wetter (3000mm annually).
90
How are the vineyards of Madeira located?
About 450 ha of vineyard plantings on Madeira. Vineyards can be planted up to an altitude of 800m. They are located near the coast. Soils are of volcanic origin and high in nutrients. Together with a lot of rain this is a fertile environment and vines can be vigourous.
91
What is the reason behind the planted grape varieties in Madeira?
Because of phylloxera the planted Malvasia, Terrantez and Verdelho were replaced with American hybrids. However, these vines could not produce the same quality. With the help of EU, the American hybrids were replanted with vitis vinifera. And these only can be used to make Madeira.
Traditionally the vitis vinifera were categorised in noble, good and authorised. Noble: Sercial, Verdelho, Boal and Malvasia. Nowadays it is split between recommended and authorised. The latter category is for varieties that were introduced after phylloxera, but have shown not the same quality.
92
What are the main grape varieties of Madeira?
- Tinta Negra: black grape, most planted. High yielding, easy to grow. Produces all sweetness levels
- Sercial: high acidity, used in driest Madeiras. Late-ripening and can be hard to have enough potential alcohol. Resistent to powedery mildew. Susceptible to botrytis, can experience poor fruit set. Plantings are small
- Verdelho: second most planted. High acidity. Susceptible to botrytis, coulure, downy and powdery mildew.
- Boal: Umbrella term for a number of varieties. Boal Cachudo/Malvasia Fina. Grows best on warm, low altitude sites. Susceptible to drought. Semi-sweet wines.
- Malvasia: Umbrella term for a number of varieties. Malvasia de São Jorge nowadays the most common. Can produce high yields but susceptible to botrytis.
- Terrantez: plantings are very limited, susceptible to powdery mildew and botrytis. Therefore picked after reaches 9% potential alcohol.
93
What can you tell about the vineyard management in Madeira?
Vineyards are planted on slopes trellised and trained into a pergola system called latadas. This way the risk of fungal disease is decreased. Also cordon-trained and VSP trellised is used (espaldeira).
Irrigation is widely used, small channels (levadas).
The official harvest date is set by the IV-BAM in consultation with growers and producers, usually at the end of August or begin of September. Harvest is done by hand. Minimum potential alcohol is 9%, usually maximum is 11%. Paid prices for grapes differ based on grape health and variety.
Maximum permitted yield varies according to vintage variation, 150 hL/ha is not unusual.
94
How is the wine made in Madeira?
IV-BAM checks the weight, health and potential alcohol on arrival in the winery. Destemmed and crushed. Use of skin contact varies by producer. Tinta negra is often fermented on the skin for medium sweet and sweet styles. Fermentation usually takes place in stainless steel with ambient yeasts. Timing of fortification depends on the style of the wine. Fortifying spirit is 96% grape spirit. Quality of the spirit must be checked by IV-BAM. After fortification wine is 17-18%. Before maturation the wines are fined (bentonite, gelatin, albumin) and filtered (diatomaceous earth). Batches will be tasted and classified according to style.
95
What maturation options are there for Madeira?
- Estufagem
| - Canteiro
96
What can you tell me about the estufagem maturation option?
This involves the wine being heated in temperature controlled vessels called estufas. Vessels are heated to 45-50C. The wine must stay in the vessel for 3 months. Vessel is sealed by IV-BAM. Some oxidation is permitted. After 3 months, the wine is cooled and filtered and left to rest for 6-9 months.
Wines may not be sold until the 31st of October of the second year following harvest.
Wines are described as baked or stewed. Most wines are 3 or 5 year Tinta negra. Not very high quality.
97
What can you tell me about the canteiro maturation option?
This is the longer and more resource-intensive process associated with higher quality wines. The wines are matured in old oak vessels in a warm environment, a building heated by the sun. Vessels are usually 400-700L and left with a small headspace. Temperatures range from 25-40C. Young wines are stored in the warmest areas of the building.
Humidity is high, but in warm conditions evaporation of water causes alcohol to rise to 19-20%. This makes sugars, aromas and acidity rise and also volatile acidity. Madeira needs topping up. The wines cannot be sold until three years after the 1st of January following harvest. A representative needs to be present to seal and unseal the vessels.
98
If a madeira is further aged after Estufagem or Canteiro method, how is this process executed?
Further ageing may be carried out in larger wooden vessels, stainless steel vats or demi-johns to limit further evaporation. Producers may apply to IVBAM for an EU subsidy to offset the cost of ageing their wine after maturation. IVBAM will seal the vessel for 5 years and will unseal if necessary and after 5 years.
Oxidation makes the wine turn brown and primary aromas develop into tertiary aromas of dried fruit. The warm ageing conditions speed up oxidation and cause sugar to caramelise in the wine. Range of aromas of dried fruits (apricot, raisin), caramel, chocolate, nuts, smoky character.
Madeira is a non-vintage product. Adaptions are common, caramel for colour, carbon fining to strip colour, RCGM for sweetening, blending in drier wine to decrease sweetness.
99
What are common labelling terms for Madeira?
Extra dry, dry, medium dry, medium sweet (medium rich) or sweet (rich or full rich).
Amount of residual sugar is not legislated so one producers dry can be another one's medium dry.
100
What are styles for Madeira that are varietally labelled?
Sercial: extra dry/dry. Lightest coloured and bodied. Notes of citrus peel and nuts
Verdelho: medium dry. More residual sugar and so more body and rounder texture. Slight sweetness on the palate gives impression of candied fruit. Bit darker in colour than Sercial.
Boal: medium sweet. Fuller and sweeter than Verdelho. darker in colour with flavours of caramel, chocolate and candied nuts.
Malvasia: Malmsey: sweet. Full-bodied, brown in colour. Sweetest style, balanced with acidity. Notes of raisins and caramel.
Terrantez: medium dry/medium sweet. High level of sugar with a delicacy. Aromas of citrus peel, caramel and sometimes floral notes.
Tinta Negra: Since 2015 varietally labelled, any kind of sweetness
101
What are, other than varietal, styles of Madeira?
- Madeira with an indication of age: 5, 10, 15, 20, 30, 40, 50 an more than 50 years. Age is an indication of style rather than number of years. Must be verified by IVBAM. Quality and price rise with number of years. 5: often tinta negra in estufagem. 10: white varieties in canteiro.
- Standard blends: may be sold 2-3 years after harvest, labelled corrente. Can also be brand named.
- Rainwater: light style in terms of alcohol, body and concentration of flavours. 18% and medium dry, max age is 10 years
- Frasqueira: Garrafeira: Flagships. Vintage Madeira that have aged in wood for 20 years. Must be described grape variety. Quality assessed by IVBAM.
- Colheita: vintage Madeira, aged in wood for minimum 5 years. Can be a blend of varieties of one variety. Harvest and bottling year must be on the label. Since 2000
102
What is the structure of the Madeira industry?
There are over a 1000 growers with small vineyards. The winemaking and maturation side of the industry is extremely consolidated within 8 producers. Largest three are: Justino's, Madeira's wine company, Henriques&Henriques. All producers need to buy grapes, from a lot of growers. They use agents for this.
103
What is the role of the IVBAM?
IVBAM is responsible for coordinating and supporting the wine and embroidery industry in Madeira. They play an active role in monitoring Madeira stocks and quality control. Representatives are present with grape reception and at the beginning and end of maturation. The tasting panel and laboratory check the profile of the wine with an age indication. Growers can also appeal to technician for advice.
104
What can you tell about the Madeira sales?
Sales of Madeira have been relatively stable over the past two decades with 2019 total sales of 3,2 million litres. Majority of sales come from young corrente mad from Tinta Negra (1,9 millionL). 5 and 10 year old are most common. Varietally labelled are Sercial, Verdelho, Boal, Malvasia.
Largest market for Madeira is France, Madeira self and then Germany and Japan. France and Germany for the inexpensive Madeira, this style is also often used for cooking.
105
What is a vin doux naturel (VDN)?
VDN refers to a group of French wines made sweet by the addition of spirit during fermentation. They come from Roussillon (80%), Languedoc and southern Rhone.
106
What is the general climate for a VDN?
General climate is Mediterranean. Roussillon is warmest and driest and is influenced by Tramontane wind. This warm wind leads to greater transpiration of water in the grapes leading to lower yield and also reduced use of fortifying spirit.
107
What are the grape varieties used in a VDN?
Muscat blanc a petit grains: has a greater intensity of aroma and flavour than muscat of Alexandrie. Tolerant of dry weather. Susceptible to powdery mildew, botrytis and mites. Plantings are increasing.
Muscat of alexandrie: bigger grapes than Muscat blanc. Capable of achieving high levels of sugar. Tolerant of dry weather, susceptible to powdery mildew, botrytis. Plantings are decreasing because of lesser quality than muscat blanc.
Grenache (noir): late-ripening variety with drought resistance. Can produce high yields at the cost of colour. Quickly accumulates sugar. Susceptible to coulure at fruit set, downy mildew, phomopsis, botrytis which all reduce yields.
108
How is vineyard management for a VDN?
Shady canopy is required to prevent sunburn. Yields for all appellations are small, 30hL/ha. By law the grapes must be picked with a minimum of 14,8% potential alcohol. Producers want as many acidity as they can get. Hand harvested, late harvest and botrytis are not desired.
109
What happens at winemaking for a VDN?
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Sweet wine is made by adding fortification spirit during fermentation. Residual sugar depends on appellation, but generally 100-125 gr/L for Muscat, 45 gr/L for Grenache (100 is more usual).
Neutral spirit (95-96%) is added when the wine reaches 5-8% to make wines of 15-18%. This makes that only 5-10% of the wine is spirit.
For white varieties, the grapes are pressed and fermented (at 15C) off their skins. Skin contact prior to fermentation can be done for a short period (6-24h). For unaged styles the wine is protected from oxygen.
For black varieties, must is fermented (at 28C) and fortified on the skins. Addition of fortification spirit increases extraction of colour, tannin and flavours. This is important for ageing. Maceration can be carried out for a couple of weeks after fortification with cap management techniques.
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110
What happens at maturation for a youthful, unaged style VDN?
Wines are released shortly after fermentation. Wines are stored in stainless steel with protection of oxygen. These wines display the primary aromas and flavours of the grape variety/varieties. Muscat based wines will display floral and grapey aromas and peach, pear, honey. Grenache based wines will display aromas of blackberries, raspberry and plum.
111
What happens at maturation for an oxidatively, aged style VDN?
These wines can be kept in a variety of vessels during a period of several years. Some are kept in old oak barrels which are not topped up to increase oxidation. Some are kept in glass demi-johns (bonbonnes) that are not quite full, unstoppered and left outside in the sun to speed up ageing.
Wines from demi-johns can be either bottled for sale, kept in old oak barrels for further maturation or be used as a blending agent with wines from oak barrels.
112
What are the different regions where VDN is made?
- Rhone
- Languedoc (4 appellations)
- Roussillon
113
Tell me about VDN from Rhone?
It is made in two appellations: Muscat de Beames-de-Venise and Vin Doux Naturel Rasteau.
MBV: vines are on SE facing slopes of the Dentelles de Montmirail. Most is white, Brown Muscat is used for reds/rose. Always unaged, medium body, medium acidity, low alcohol, primary aromas: blossom, grape, peach, honey.
VDNR: Most production is red. Made with a minimum of 75% grenache. Vines are on gentle south facing slopes. Protected from Mistral. Easy ripening and thus jammy flavours. Unaged wines cherries and plums, aged wines dried fruits and nutty hints. 16-18%
114
Tell me about VDN from Languedoc?
There are 4 appellations. All wines must be made from Muscat Blanc a petit grains in an unaged style. Differences between appellations are according to the location of the appellation. Where it is warmer the wine has fuller body and displays tropical fruits (Muscat de Frontignan). With cooler climates the wine becomes with higher acidity, lighter body and more stone fruit and floral aromas (Muscat de St-Jean-de-Minervois).
115
What are the different styles of VDN from Roussillon?
- Grenat/Rimage: unaged reds. Grenat is used in Maury/Rivesaltes, Rimage in Banyuls. Muscat Blanc: unaged
- Tuilé/Traditionnel: oxidatively reds. Tuilé in Maury/Rivesaltes, Traditionnel in Banyuls
- Ambré: oxidatively whites
- Hors d'age: oxidatively with longer maturation than Tuilé or Ambré. White and red
- Rancio: wine with rancio character, red or white.
116
Where is VDN made in the region of Roussillon, which appellations?
- Grand roussillion AOC
- Banyuls AOC
- Banyuls Grand Cru AOC
- Maury AOC
- Muscat de Rivesaltes AOC
- Rivesaltes AOC
117
What are the characteristics of Banyuls AOC in making a VDN?
Located at east end of the pyrenees bordered by the mediterranean and spain.
Red wines must contain a minimum of 50% grenache noir, but can also include gris and blanc.
Vineyards are planted on steep terraced schist slopes. Whites are also made.
118
What are the characteristics of Banyuls Grand Cru AOC in making a VDN?
Same area as Banyuls AOC, red wines must contain 75% grenache noir and must matured a minimum of 30 months. Wines that have aged longer can qualify as Hors d'age or Rancio.
119
What are the characteristics of Maury AOC in making a VDN
Located in the north of Roussillon. Vines are planted 100-400m in the foothills of the pyrenees on dark coloured schist soils. The warmth in the soils released at night aids ripening. Red VDN's must be made of 75% grenache noir. Small amount of unaged whites is made. Unfortified wines must be labelled Maury Sec AOC.
120
What are the characteristics of Muscat de Rivesaltes in making a VDN
Largest AOC in terms of production. Often made in a blend of Muscat Blanc a petit grains and Muscat of Alexandria in an unaged style.
121
What are the characteristics of Rivesaltes AOC in making a VDN
North of Roussillon close to the Mediterranean, range of VDN styles. Both red and white are made in Grenat, Tuilé, Ambré, Hors d'age and Rancio style. Whites can only be made with a maximum 20% of Muscat varieties. Balance comes from Grenache blanc, grenache gris, Macabeu and Malvoisie.
Reds are only made from grenache noir.
122
What is the history of Rutherglen?
Vines were planted in Victoria in 1850. When gold was discovered, the population boomed and investment in the region increased. By 1890, Rutherglen produced 25% of Australia's wine, much exported to UK.
End of 19th century Rutherglen was decimated by phylloxera, it recovered by planting resistent rootstocks. In the 20th century competition by more productive regions was hard and Rutherglen did not grow to its original size. Nowadays it is considered as fortified capital of Australia.
Many wineries are family run and are keeping their house styles based on fruit selection, winemaking, maturation and blending choices.
123
What can you tell about the growing environment of Rutherglen?
North East of Victoria with 411ha under vine. Continental climate with warm days and moderating cool air flowing down from the Victorian Alps during the night. Long growing season and warm days in autumn mean that large amounts of sugar can accumulate. Grapes are left on the vine until they shrivel, this increases sugar concentration and leads to dried fruit aromas. Harvest is timed according to the weather. Earlier harvested fruit is combined with extra ripe shrivelled grapes for fresh muscat aromas and dried fruit aromas. Botrytis is not desired, but can give orange marmelade aromas.
124
What can you tell about grape growing in Rutherglen?
Ruterglen is made with Muscat Blanc a petit grains rouges, Rutherglen Brown Muscat. It displays pronounced grapey and floral aromas.
Vines tend to be trained to double cordons, with the canopy sprawling over a single foliage wire or held by more wires into a VSP system. Shading is important because of the risk of sunburn.
Rutherglen is planted with old vines, this gives smaller bunches with higher skin to juice ratio. This produces deeper coloured, more concentrated wines.
125
What can you tell about fermentation and fortification in Rutherglen?
Crushed muscat grapes are fermented briefly on their skins to break down the pulp and release sugar and flavours. Enzymes are added to the juice and various cap management techniques are used.
Once the juice reaches 1-2% alcohol it is quickly drained from its skins, which are pressed and combined it is fortified to reach 17,5%. Fortifying spirit is minimum of 96%, to be neutral.
Wines are clarified by racking off lees or by light filtration. Deposits are avoided (off flavours during maturation) by light fining for protein stability and adjusting pH.
126
What can you tell about maturation in Rutherglen?
Wines are matured in old oak vessels in buildings that are warmed by the sun. Cooler areas in the building can be used to slow down maturation and maintain more fresh characteristics.
Vessels (old oak) are either large (1300-9000L) or small (180-500). Small ones promote greater concentration through evaporation, more oxidation and quicker maturation.
Evaporation during maturation (because of heat) causes higher levels of alcohol, sugar and acidity. If chosen for topping up, fresh character is more maintained.
During maturation colour changes from pale pink to ruby, garnet or deep brown.
Most Rutherglen wines are non-vintage. Sometimes a kind of solera system is used although not as systematic as in Sherry.
Blending is essential to create the house style.
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What are the classifications in Rutherglen?
1995: The Muscat of Rutherglen Network was founded. Classification is on four descriptions based on richness, complexity and intensity. Wines are classified by taste, as the level increases, number of vintages in the blend become greater.
- Rutherglen Muscat: 3-5 years. 180-240 gr/L sugar
- Classic Rutherglen Muscat: 6-10 years. 200-280 gr/L
- Grand Rutherglen Muscat: 11-19 years. 270-400 gr/L
- Rare Rutherglen Muscat: >20 years. 270-400 gr/L
In the Rutherglen Muscat classification wines are medium garnet, pronounced aromas of raisins, figs, dates, and sweet spices. Sweet on the palate, full bodied and medium plus acidity, medium alcohol and pronounced flavours. Classic has a deeper colour, more concentration and greater complexity.
Grand and Rare are tawny/brown, nutty, treacle, liquorice flavour. More sweet and full than younger ones, but with high acidity and some fruit for balance.
All should be drunk within two years after bottling.
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What can you tell about wine business in Rutherglen?
Production of Rutherglen is in hands of a few producers, most of them in the hands of the Muscat of Rutherglen Network.
2% of Australian wines is fortified Australian wine. Vast majority for the domestic market. Export countries are China, UK, USA. Significant producers are Campbells and Chambers Rosewood
