ERTH 307 Final Flashcards
(40 cards)
Surface Temperature and Salinity Patterns
Vary in time and space
Vertical variations exist in both
Horizontal variations in T and S change in time, but major patterns exist
Temperature and Salinity Effects on Density
Temperature ↑, Density ↓ (inversely related)
Salinity ↑, Density ↑ (directly related)
Can cause density variates that can affect ocean currents
Ocean Pressure
Increases exponentially
1 atmosphere of pressure added every 10 meters down you go
Water is denser the farther down you go; gets even denser if it is cold and salty
General Wind Patterns at the Ocean’s Surface
Steady winds produce waves and set the surface water into motion
This starts the motion of the main surface gyres of the ocean
High/low Pressure Zones
High Pressure - Polar Cells; high pressure and low precipitation
- Cold, dense air
- Subtropical highs, polar highs
- Dry, clear, fair
Low Pressure - Equatorial region; Hadley cells; high precipitation
- Warm, low density air
- Equatorial lows, subpolar lows
- Cloudy, precipitation
Wind Driven Gyres
5 large gyres - N. Pacific; S. Pacific; N. Atlantic; S. Atlantic; Indian Ocean
Antarctic Circumpolar Current (West wind drift)
Equatorial countercurrent
Velocities vary (fastest are ~meters/sec)
Ekman Transport
Fundamentally due to Coriolis
Affects surface layer of ocean only (i.e. due to winds)
Average transport is perpendicular to wind (right in NH)
Coastal Upwelling (pnw)
Upwelling - vertival movement of deep waters to the surface
These deep waters are typically cold, nutrient-rich, oxygen-poor
In PNW, upwelling happens in the summer; winds blow from north, Ekman transport moves surface water offshore, to be replaced by deeper water
Summer upwelling leads to cooler coastal ocean temperatures; higher productivity = more chlorophyll
Coriolis Effect
Changes the intended path of an object
Causes all moving objects on Earth to follow curved paths; result of Earth’s rotation and spherical shape
To the right in the Northern Hemisphere (clockwise)
To the left in the Southern Hemisphere (counterclockwise)
Things travel different speeds at different latitutdes
Effect is strongest at poles and weakest at equator
Technically, the Earth moves, NOT the object, the object only appears to move
Geostrophic Currents
Geostrophic - balance between pressure gradient and Coriolis
Coriolis Deflection (Ekman Transport) plus the Pressure Gradient steers currents around gyres
Mound of water
Gulf Stream Rings
Cold core eddy - rotates counter-clockwise; 3 layers of depth
Warm core eddy - rotates clockwise; 4 layers of depth
Tide-generating Forces
Tide-generating forces created by Sun and Moon create bulges (get high and low tides dependent on position)
Difference between centripetal and gravitational is the resultant force
Resultant force = tide-generating force (~one millionth gravity)
Types of Tides
High - when the crest of a wave reaches a particular higher location due to the moon and sun’s gravitational pull on Earth
Low - when the crest of a wave reaches a particular lower location due to the moon and sun’s gravitational pull on Earth
Spring - constructive pull between sun and moon; happens when moon is either full or new and in line with the Earth and the sun
Neap - destructive between sun and moon; happens when moon is either first-quarter or third-quarter; moon is not in line with the Earth and sun
Diurnal - one high tide and one low tide in the day
Semidiurnal - two high and two low tides
Mixed - two high and two low tides; high high and low high, high low and low low
Equilibrium Theory
Developed by Newton in the 17th-century
Assumptions:
- Uniform ocean depth and coverage
- 2 equal tidal bulges
- No continents
- No friction between ocean and seafloor
Combined sun and moon bulges; get both sun and moon bulges that interact
Took into account:
- Moon’s angle to Earth (declination)
- Moon and Sun move in elliptical paths
Tide-generating forces created by sun and moon create bulges
Wave-generating Sources
Wind
Tides
Seismic activity
Disturbance caused by some energy source that moves through a medium
Disturbing and restoring forces
Progressive waves: orbital waves
Wave Energy Sources
Wind -
Tides -
Seismic -
Wave Characteristics
Crest, trough, wavelength (L), still water level, wave height (H)
Wave steepness = H/L (height over wavelength)
Wave frequency - 1/period
Measuring wavelength - how far from one crest to the next?
Measuring period - how much time between once crest and the next?
Measuring frequency - how many crests pass by a point in a certain amount of time?
Shallow Water Waves
Effect on speed (S): whether the wave can feel the bottom
Depth of water (d) much LESS than wave base
d < L/20
Tides travel as shallow water waves; tsunamis are shallow water waves
Wavelength is set by disturbing force; very long wavelength and period
Deep Water Waves
Effect on speed (S): whether the wave can feel the bottom
depth of water (d) GREATER than wave base
d> wave base; d> L/2 of waves by wavelength)
Types of Waves
Breaking waves: spilling, plunging, and surging
- Spilling breaker - gentle slopes; water slides down wave slope
- Plunging - moderate slopes; curling, “barreling” crest; fun for board surfers
- Surging - steep slopes; waves break on shore; best for body boarders and surfers; sneaker waves
Tsunamis: very long wavelength and period, typically like 200km
Swell: waves generated by distant storm; uniform; long period; comes near parallel
Chop: local waves near storm; choppy; variable period
Wave refraction
Waves approach at whatever angle they were traveling in deep water
Wave crests bend in shallow water (S is proportional to d)
Nearly parallel when hit shore
General Pattern of Conveyor Belt
Surface waters at high latitudes form deep water
Deep water sinks and flows at depth throughout all major ocean basins
Deep water upwells to replace sinking surface water
Surface waters must move poleward to replace sinking water
Dense water doesn’t form in other oceans because:
- Pacific - too low salinity
- Indian - too high temp
- Arctic - some dense water formation, but small volumes and it stays in the Arctic Basin
Deep Ocean Water Masses
Water masses change little once they are deep
AABW (Antarctic Bottom Water) spreads along bottom as it is denser than NADW (North Atlantic Deep Water)
Temperature and Salinity Diagrams
Temperature ↑, density ↓
Salinity ↑, density ↑
Pressure ↑, density ↑