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Oceanography > Exam 3 > Flashcards

Exam 3 Flashcards

1
Q

The depth below the surface where the circular orbits become so small that movement is negligible is called the

A

wave base

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2
Q

The uninterrupted distance over which wind blows without a change in direction

A

fetch

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3
Q

At the surface of the ocean the diameter of a wave orbital is equal to

A

wave height

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4
Q

Generally, the greater the speed, the greater the

A

wavelength

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5
Q

How do you calculate celerity?

A

L/T

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6
Q

restoring force for wind-generated waves

A

gravity

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7
Q

three factors that influence wave height

A

fetch, wind duration, and wind speed

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8
Q

the time between two successive waves is called the

A

period

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9
Q

What is the ratio of H:L

A

wave steepness

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10
Q

Wind waves grow from what types of waves?

A

capillary waves

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11
Q

In deep-water waves the water depth is greater than the ____ divided by 2.

A

wavelength

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12
Q

As a deep water wave approaches a shoreline and becomes a transitional wave, its wave height _____ and its wavelength _______.

A

increases; decreases

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13
Q

A Beaufort number of _____ is where we would begin to see the formation of whitecaps in the ocean.

A

3

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14
Q

If we see orbital movement of water at a pynocline we are looking at _____ waves.

A

internal

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15
Q

Waves in the surf zone begin to behave like shallow-water waves when _____.

A

wave depth = wavelength/20

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16
Q

Wave formed on a river by a flood current.

A

tidal bore

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17
Q

The angular distance of the Sun or the Moon above or below the Earth’s equatorial plane is called the ______?

A

declination

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18
Q

When the Earth is at its greatest distance from the Sun, it is said to be at _____.

A

aphelion

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19
Q

The difference between centripetal forces and gravitational forces is called the _____.

A

resultant force

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20
Q

A neap tide has _____ tidal range.

A

low

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21
Q

There is constructive interference between the lunar and solar tidal bulges during _____ tides.

A

spring

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22
Q

The center of mass of the Earth-Moon system is called the ______.

A

barycenter

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23
Q

Which of the following would you expect to find on a summertime beach?

A

a wide, sandy berm

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24
Q

The section of the coast that is exposed at low tide and submerged at high tide is called the _____.

A

foreshore

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25
Q

Isostatic movement of a coastline might occur due to

A

removal of a big glacier in the area

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26
Q

Eustatic changes in sea level might include

A

increased glacial melting due to the climate change

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27
Q

Which of the following is found at a depositional shore?

A

deltas

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28
Q

Which of the following is designed to prevent or retard shoreline erosion?

A

seawall, beach nourishment, groin

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29
Q

In terms of erosion protection from wave action, seawalls

A

lead to erosion of sediment on their seaward sides

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30
Q

Sediment is supplied to the coastal zone by

A

rivers, coastal erosion, local biological activity

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31
Q

regular, long-period waves that have sorted themselves based on speed

A

swell

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32
Q

If you have a moon that is 7 days old (past new moon) what type of tide would we experience?

A

neap tide

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33
Q

If you took a series of salinity measurements and found that salinity was constant at all depths in a particular estuarine location, you are probably in which kind of estuary?

A

vertically mixed

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34
Q

_______ force - ________ force = ________ force

A

centripetal, gravitational, resultant

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35
Q

A full lunar tidal cycle is _____ than a solar day.

A

+50 minutes

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36
Q

A solar day is ____ than a full lunar tidal cycle.

A

-50 minutes

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37
Q

If the mainland is connected to an island by a sand ridge, we would term that feature a

A

tombolo

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38
Q

Why do waves converge on headlands?

A

wave refraction

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39
Q

A tide that occurs when a spring tide corresponds with the moon in perigee is termed a

A

proxigean tide

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40
Q

4 types of armoring

A

groins, jetties, breakwaters, seawalls

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41
Q

Groin definition and the problem with it

A

armoring built perpendicular to the beach which is made of large blocky/rocky material. Traps the sand and builds up the beach in the north, but causes erosion below it. Slosh, backwash moves in the south direction - lose sand south

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42
Q

jettie

A

type of hard stabilization build in pairs - go long ways and have done major stabilization and they have caused massive buildup because they fill area with sediments and sand

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43
Q

sea wall

A

remove beach as water strikes sea wall it is eroding sand below sea wall and it will collapse. Wave activity will undermine sea wall, so it will have to continually be repaired. Loses beach for public.

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44
Q

Alternatives to armoring?

A

construction restrictions, relocation, beach replenishment

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45
Q

sun’s declination to earth

A

23.5 degrees

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46
Q

declination of moon to earth

A

28.5 degrees

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47
Q

apogee

A

point at which moon is furthest from earth in its orbit

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48
Q

perigee

A

point at which moon is closest to earth in its orbit

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49
Q

tidal range is ______ at perigee

A

highest

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50
Q

Apogee has what affect of GF

A

decrease

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51
Q

perigee has what affect on GF

A

increase

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52
Q

aphelion

A

sun is furthest from earth in its orbit

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53
Q

periphelion

A

sun is closest to earth in its orbit

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54
Q

center around which the tide rotates

A

amphidromic point

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55
Q

connects all locations that are experiencing high tide at one time; can be strange in shape but it has to do with the basin

A

cortidal lines

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56
Q

tidal datum

A

reference point for the tidal height; not always at sea level

57
Q

diurnal

A

one high and one low tide per day

58
Q

semidiurnal

A

2 high, 2 low tides a day

59
Q

mixed

A

2 high, 2 low tides a day - tidal range is different - common

60
Q

when water is moving out of the system; can be very strong; tides near shore; leads toward low tide

A

ebb tide

61
Q

when water is moving into the system; tides near shore; leads toward high tide

A

flood tide

62
Q

little movement

A

slack tide

63
Q

most extreme tides - location

A

Bay of Fundy, Nova Scotia - 15m

64
Q

How do we predict tides?

A

relative distance, position of moon, declination, where are the amphidromic points

65
Q

What influences predicted tides?

A

weather patterns, storm surge, tsunami, strong on-shore winds, high and low pressure systems, strong wind patterns

66
Q

proxigean tide

A

spring tide at perigee; every 1.5 years; can cause coastal flooding

67
Q

spring tide

A

full moon; new moon; when tidal range is greatest

68
Q

neap tide

A

moon is at a right angle; low tidal amplitude; tidal range is at its lowest

69
Q

Nadir

A

point that earth is furthest to the moon; lowest gravitational forces

70
Q

Zenith

A

point that earth is closest to the moon; high gravitational forces

71
Q

gravitational force arrows point where

A

toward the center of the moon

72
Q

centripetal force arrows

A

center seeking; what keeps planet in orbit; same at all points; points straight

73
Q

resultant force

A

Fg - centripetal force ; this is what impacts tides; vectors point towards zenith or nadir; top and bottom arrows point into the center of earth

74
Q

tidal period

A

12 hours and 25 minutes

75
Q

lunar day

A

24 hours and 50 minutes

76
Q

solar day

A

24 hours

77
Q

syzygy

A

when earth, moon, and sun system are aligned; creates high tidal amplitudes; highest highs and lowest lows; during spring tides

78
Q

what is the average tidal range in Jax

A

3-6m

79
Q

disturbing force

A

whatever caused the wave to form; wind, body, pretty much anything

80
Q

Where are ocean waves formed?

A

air-water interface

81
Q

Where are atmospheric waves formed?

A

between 2 air masses of differing densities

82
Q

Where do internal waves form?

A

water-water interface

83
Q

What causes internal waves?

A

tides, turbidity currents, ship movements
- high density bottom water and low density surface water

84
Q

wave base

A

point at which there is negligible water movement due to depth ; 1/2(L) - tells u depth of ocean that will be impacted

85
Q

Stoke’s Drift

A

slight movement of water forward along the path of the energy transmission

86
Q

How do we classify waves?

A

disturbing force, are they still under disturbing force, what restores them, wavelength

87
Q

5 types of waves in increasing order

A
  1. capillary wave
  2. wind waves
  3. seiche - long period waves that rock back and forth
  4. tsunami
  5. tide
88
Q

free wave

A

wave that is no longer under the force that created it ; tsunami

89
Q

forced wave

A

type of wave that is still under disturbing force ; tide

90
Q

deep water wave

A

waves that are found at a depth greater than 1/2 (L)

91
Q

when steepness is greater than _____ what happens

A

1/7 < H/L
unstable and breaks - white caps

92
Q

Beaufort Wind Scale

A

wind scale and state of the sea; 0-12 ; 0 is flat ass calm; 12 is hurricane; 3 presence of white caps

93
Q

wave trains

A

free waves; group velocity is very slow; form series of rounded swells coming from offshore storm; progress forward, lose leading wave, gain new wave at the end of the train ; overall celerity of the group Cg = C/2

94
Q

constructive wave interaction

A

come together in phase and build each other up. 1m crest meets 1m crest = 2m crest

95
Q

destructive wave interaction

A

if out of phase, they will cancel
1mcrest meets .5m trough = .5m wave

96
Q

mixed wave interaction

A

waves of different lengths and heights; form rogue waves

97
Q

rogue waves

A

very dangerous, randomly large, rare waves coming in and against a powerful current; horn of Africa

98
Q

wave refraction

A

bending of waves as they approach shore; regions that hit shallow water first, slow down allowing rest of wave to catch up

99
Q

wave defraction

A

waves move around an obstruction; as waves strike the object they bend around the region, makes crossing area for waves beyond the island; lots of erosion

100
Q

wave reflection

A

wave strikes barrier, bounces back - may form standing wave ; oscillate around node

101
Q

3 types of breakers and characteristics

A
  1. spilling - JAX, gradual slope, long distance, East Coast
  2. plunging - steep slope, short distance, West Coast
  3. surging - very steep, very short distance
102
Q

tsunami

A

seismic sea waves that move quickly and have extremely long wavelengths; caused by tectonic events; common in Pacific

103
Q

shore

A

zone that lies between the low tide line and the highest area on land affected by strorm waves

104
Q

coast

A

extends inland as far as we have ocean related features

105
Q

coastline

A

region between the coast and the shore

106
Q

backshore

A

upper region of the shore that is above high tide line

107
Q

foreshore

A

part of shore that is exposed at low tide and exposed at high tide

108
Q

shoreline

A

water-land interface; moves

109
Q

nearshore

A

extends low tide shoreline to low tide breaker line

110
Q

offshore

A

zone beyond breakers

111
Q

longshore drift

A

movement of sediments parallel to shore driven by wave energy; longshore current (flow of water) moves particles up (angular) (swash) and straight back (flow) moving it in the direction of the current

112
Q

summer beach

A

wide, sandy berm; light wave activity, backwash not significant; swash pushes particles up but backwash doesnt necessarily bring it all back ; NO LONGSHORE BARS

113
Q

winter beach

A

heavy wave action; backwash dominates; narrow beach; longshore bars present

114
Q

headlands have waves crashing on it called

A

defraction

115
Q

barrier islands

A

extremely long offshore deposits of sand that run parallel to coast; protect mainland from high wave activity; temporary features that developed about 18,000 years ago at the end of the last ice age

116
Q

Offshore bar theory

A

barrier island formation - waves crashing into the shadows build up sand and begin building the sand bar; sand bar will emerge and form barrier island

117
Q

Spit accretion theory

A

barrier islands formed from sediment from longshore drift. Drift accumulates to form spit or strip of land connected to mainland that juts out of land connected to mainland that juts out into the water.

118
Q

Submergence theory

A

water moves in on coastal ridges and separates them from the mainland

119
Q

what kind of barrier island migration is happening now

A

transgressive migration - island moves back toward mainland - sea level rising

120
Q

deltas

A

deposition of materials deposited at the end of the river; form in low energy areas; currents not too strong; broad continental shelf

121
Q

Arcurate Delta

A

Ganges River; river mouth arches out into the sea and the river splits many times

122
Q

Cuspate Delta

A

Ebro River; juts out arrowlike, does not carry a lot of sediment

123
Q

Bird’s Foot Delta

A

Mississippi; a lot of deposition and so the river juts out into the sea or gulf; carries a lot of sediment

124
Q

3 types of coral reefs and their descriptions

A
  1. atoll - specialized type of island found in the tropics; form from volcanic island
  2. fringing - found against shoreline; grows seaward from shore
  3. barrier - usually a lagoon that is separating the reef from the shoreline
125
Q

how do atolls form?

A
  1. on an active volcano, coral growth starts to builds up close to the shore
  2. As the volcano becomes inactive and sinks, coral builds up more over time.
  3. Eventually, island sinks below sea level but a thick section of coral builds up to stay close to surface, creating the atoll.
126
Q

mangrove

A

type of halophyte (tolerant to salinity); 3 kinds black, red, white

127
Q

mangle

A

dense growth of mangroves

128
Q

overwash islands

A

dominated by red mangroves; surrounded by estuary or lagoonal water; excellent for bird habitat

129
Q

mangrove fringe

A

found along shoreline; protect shoreline and reduce erosion; dominated by red mangroves

130
Q

coastal plain estuary

A

Chesapeake Bay; formed when ancient glaciers melted and some of the streams and rivers covered with water as sea level rose - lots of volume

131
Q

fjord estuary

A

Glacier Bay; glacially carved; northern habitats where rocky coastlines are - glaciers melted sea water floods in; deep and steep

132
Q

bar built estuary

A

used to be St Johns; sand bars or barrier islands build up by ocean currents and waves create protected area fed by smaller streams and rivers

133
Q

tectonic estuary

A

San Francisco Bay; formed where tectonic activity sunk the land or the land is sliding by itself

134
Q

vertically mixed

A

same salinity from surface to bottom but transition of salinity from fresh at the head to more saline at the mouth; shallow, low volume

135
Q

slightly stratified

A

salinity increasing from head to mouth; more saline at bottom than top; tend to be a little deeper

136
Q

Highly Stratified

A

deep deep, upper layer salinity increasing from head to mouth- surface waters low in salinity but marine at bottom

137
Q

salt wedge

A

high volume; lots of water coming out of head which forms a freshwater lens over the more saline water

138
Q

mixing salinity dependent on what 3 characteristics

A

shape of basin, river volume, range of tides

Oceanography (1 decks)

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