Eye Cosmetics

Question 1

Why is the eyelid thin?

Answer 1

It must be thin enough for rapid movement yet strong enough to protect the tender eye tissues

Question 2

What glands are present on the eyelids?

Answer 2

Highest conc of sebaceous glands found on the eyelids

Question 3

What status does the eyes reflect?

Answer 3

Eyes are affected by immune system status

Question 4

Name the basic Ingredients inside eyeshadow?

Answer 4

Binder: Talc & Magnesium stearate

Oil absorption: Kaolin

Question 5

What ingredient is used in pastel eye shadows to improve coverage?

Answer 5

Titanium dioxide (TiO2)

Question 6

What is used to give a pearly shine to eyeshadows?

Answer 6

Bismuth oxychloride (BiOCl) & fish scale essence

Question 7

What about for a metallic finish?

Answer 7

Copper, aluminium, gold or silver

Question 8

What are the ingredients in water-resistant eye shadow?

Answer 8

Higher content of oily binder

Contain pigments in petrolatum, cocoa butter, beeswax or lanolin

Question 9

Name a problem of such water-resistant eye shadow

Answer 9

Short wearing time due to tendency to migrate into eyelid folds
Should use eyeshadow setting creams before eyeshadow as they provide an adherent base

Question 10

Does the eyelid itself have any hair?

Answer 10

No

Question 11

What are eyelashes made of?

Answer 11

A mixture of dead cells that have been keratinised (95%), binding melanin granules & small amts of water

Question 12

Are eyelashes similar in composition to scalp hair?

Answer 12

Yes but they have slower growth & typically last for 3 mths before falling out

Question 13

What is the role of eyelashes?

Answer 13

Protect eyes from debris & signal eyelid to reflexively close the eye when something is too close

Question 14

Purpose of mascara?

Answer 14

To darken, thicken & lengthen eyelashes

Question 15

Common pigments to produce the colour in mascara?

Answer 15

Black: Iron oxide
Navy: Ultramarine blue
Brown: Amber

Question 16

What are water-based mascaras and what is the most pressing problem?

Answer 16

They are oil-in-water emulsions that contain beeswax in addition to pigments dissolved in water -> less prone to irritation but more prone to microbial contamination

Problem: Smudges with perspiration/tearing & needs preservatives.

Question 17

What are solvent-based mascaras?

Answer 17

Waterproof mascaras with petroleum distillates to which pigments & waxes are added but requires surfectants to remove which can be more irritating to the eyes

Preservatives are still added but less microbial contamination since petroleum-based solvent is anti-bacterial.

Question 18

What is a hybrid mascara?

Answer 18

Product that is less irritating like water-based mascara but provides water-resistant properties like a solvent-based mascara
e.g. contains both water and paraffin

Question 19

Role of an eyeliner?

Answer 19

Define the margins of the eyes

Question 20

What are pencil eyeliners made of and what is its advantage

Answer 20

Contains natural and synthetic waxes combined with pigments, mineral oils & lanolin derivatives

Advantage: re-sharpening decreases contamination

Question 21

What is eyeliner tattooing?

Answer 21

Involves the intradermal insertion of black pigment on or outside of the upper & lower eyelash line
BUT dye sometimes migrates and gets smudged

Question 22

Are there any OTC eyelash dyes?

Answer 22

No due to the risk of eye damage

but they are still used by albinos and should not be used more than every 3 wks

Question 23

What are some problems about artificial eyelashes (falsies)?

Answer 23

Can trap bacteria & the methacrylate-based glue is a known sensitiser

Question 24

Are the same dyes for scalp hair used for eyebrows?

Answer 24

Yes, eyebrow dyes can use the same dyes for the scalp BUT should not be used in the eye area/eyelashes

should alw do a patch test before that

Question 25

What are the 4 main problematic classes of ingredients in terms of health safety in cosmetics?

Answer 25

1. Preservatives 2. Colour additives 3. Biological additives 4. Herbal additives

Question 26

Are preservatives necessary in cosmetics?

Answer 26

Yes, without preservatives, the lipids in formulations would rapidly oxidise rendering the cream rancid or bacterial contamination would render product unsafe. 2 functions: - spoilage prevention before usage - contamination prevention after purchase Most common allergenic grp of substances after fragrances

Question 27

Name the most popular preservative

Answer 27

Parabens, sometimes replaced by Kathon CG (Cosmetic grade) Although Kathon is a much greater cause of skin sensitisation

Question 28

What is parabens most effective against?

Answer 28

Gram positive bacteria and fungi Sometimes used in combination with phenoxyethanol to provide better gram negative coverage

Question 29

Function of triclosan?

Answer 29

Antibacterial and antifungal

Question 30

Disadvantages of triclosan?

Answer 30

Builds up bacterial resistance, normal soap itself is able to clean up to 82% of bacteria. Triclosan gives a small increase e.g. 85% only As of 2017, FDA prohibits the sale of "consumer antiseptic washes" containing triclosan

Question 31

When can we use amines as a preservative?

Answer 31

Amines seem safe in rinse-off products only when formulated to be non-irritating Should NOT be used in cosmetic products in which N-nitroso compounds may be formed Majority of the salts function as surfectants & preservatives, the others are reported to function as pH adjustors

Question 32

Function of formaldehyde?

Answer 32

Preservative, industrial fungicide, germicide and disinfectant Sometimes formed as a by-product when in contact with water Banned in Japan & Sweden

Question 33

What does 1,4-Dioxane do?

Answer 33

Creates suds | FDA encourages manufacturers to remove 1,4-dioxane but not required by law

Question 34

Main role of phthalates?

Answer 34

Used as plasticizers (substances added to plastics to increase their flexibility, transparency, durability & longevity) Often used as ingredients in fragrances but since it is not req to declare the breakdown of fragrances, many consumers will not know if their product has phthalates or not

Question 35

What are some other ways to reduce contamination

Answer 35

Packaging: Oxygen-free dispenser, one-way valve | Natural preservatives e.g. essential oils

Question 36

What substances absorb preservatives?

Answer 36

Titanium dioxide & Zinc oxide absorbs preservatives thus lowering the effective concentration

Question 37

What are natural preservatives?

Answer 37

Essential oils and fragrances with antimicrobial capabilities E.g. neem oil, clove oil, cinnamon oil, eucalyptus oil, rose oil, lavender oil, lemon oil, rosemary extract etc. Products that claim to be conservative free may actly incorporate one aromatic preservative

Question 38

Name the 3 classifications of colour additives

Answer 38

1. FD&C colourants -> used in food, drugs & cosmetics 2. D&C -> drugs & colourants 3. External D&C -> externally applied drugs & cosmetics (excl lips and parts covered by mucous membrane) FD&C safest class

Question 39

What are colours divided into?

Answer 39

Soluble (e.g. in water, alcohol & oil | impart colour only when in solution) Insoluble (organic such as pigments & inorganic such as oxides & metals)

Question 40

Which dye is shown to be comedogenic?

Answer 40

D&C Red dyes

Question 41

What are the 8 biological additives?

Answer 41

1. Amniotic fluid 2. Blood derivatives 3. Collagen 4. Egg extract 5. Elastin 6. Hyaluronic acid 7. Keratin 8. Placenta

Question 42

What are the advantages & disadvantages of herbal additives

Answer 42

They are more popular & less problematic than biological additives BUT many are contaminated with herbicides & heavy metals

Question 43

Name 3 herbal additives

Answer 43

1. Aloe 2. Avocado, sesame & tea tree oil 3. Allantoin & alpha-bisabolol (chamomile extract)

Question 44

Name 3 vitamin additives

Answer 44

1. Vitamin C (water soluble) 2. Vitamin E (lipid soluble) 3. Carotenoids & niacinamide