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Oceanography > Final Exam > Flashcards

Final Exam Flashcards

(51 cards)

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1
Q

What starts to happen when a wave โ€œfeels bottomโ€ near a shoreline

A

The water is dragging on the shoreline causing:
- Waveheight & wavesteepness to increase
- Wavelength & speed to decrease
- Top of wave to spillover

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2
Q

The orbital motion of a deep water wave extends to a depth equal to

A

One half the wavelength

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3
Q

What factors affect the amount of energy transferred from wind to water?

A
  1. Wind speed
  2. Wind duration
  3. Fetch
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4
Q

What are the 3 types of breakers

A
  1. ๐’๐ฉ๐ข๐ฅ๐ฅ๐ข๐ง๐ 
    - Gentle slope beaches
    - Energy dissipates gradually
    - Longer but less exciting surf
  2. ๐๐ฅ๐ฎ๐ง๐ ๐ข๐ง๐ 
    - Steeper shores
    - Sudden slowing of wave
    - Surfing ideal
  3. ๐’๐ฎ๐ซ๐ ๐ข๐ง๐ 
    - Steepest shores
    - Energy breaks suddenly
    - Breaks right on beach
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5
Q

Constructive interference

A

Same part of wave crosses
Ex. Crest to crest

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6
Q

Deconstructive interference

A

Different part of wave crosses
Ex. Crest to trough

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7
Q

Waves of a similar period that are sorted by wavelength are called

A

Swells

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8
Q

How is the Beaufort Scale is used at sea?

A

To estimate wind speed based on visual observations of the sea and sails

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9
Q

What is the maximum possible wave height of any given wave?

A

No greater than 1/7 the wavelength

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10
Q

Frequency

A

Cycles/ sec

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11
Q

Period

A

Time/ cycle

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12
Q

Wave steepness

A

Waveheight/ wavelength
(rise/ run)

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13
Q

Speed

A

Wavelength/ period

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14
Q

What caused the high death toll as a result of the 2011 Japan earthquake?

A

Tsunamis

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15
Q

Tsunami true facts

A
  1. Tsunamis are considered shallow water waves.
  2. Most tsunamis are caused by earthquakes that occur on the seafloor.
  3. Have long wavelengths and high speeds
  4. A possible warning sign of an approaching tsunami is the sudden retreat of ocean water
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16
Q

Gravity is stronger when

A

Distance is smaller and mass is greater

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17
Q

The tides with the greatest tidal range during the month are the _______________ tides.

A

Spring

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18
Q

Whatโ€™s the relationship between tidal bulges and high tides?

A

Tidal bulges correspond to high tide areas

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19
Q

Types of tides

A

๐ƒ๐ข๐ฎ๐ซ๐ง๐š๐ฅ
- 1 high and 1 low tide
๐’๐ž๐ฆ๐ข๐๐ข๐ฎ๐ซ๐ง๐š๐ฅ
- 2 high and low tides
๐’๐ž๐ฆ๐ข๐๐ข๐ฎ๐ซ๐ง๐š๐ฅ ๐ฆ๐ข๐ฑ๐ž๐
- mixed high and low

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20
Q

What are the conditions that would result in the highest of high tides (and the lowest of low tides)

A

Perigee, perihelion, spring tides, and January time

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21
Q

Why are rip currents dangerous? What is the recommended action if caught in a rip current?

Study These Flashcards
A

Rip currents are strong, narrow currents of water flowing away from the beach.
Swim parallel to the shore to escape the current

22
Q

Spring tides occur

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A

When the sun, moon, and earth are aligned. Which happens twice a month during a full and new moon.

23
Q

Why are there two tidal bulges on opposite sides of the Earth?

Study These Flashcards
A

One is due to gravity and the other is due to inertia

24
Q

Where is chemosynthesis most likely to occur?

Study These Flashcards
A

Near hydrothermal vents in the deep ocean

25
Plankton
Part of the pelagic zone, known as the drifters Two types: - Phytoplankton: - Autotrophs - Produce > 50% of world's oxygen - Base of food chain - Ex: Cyanobacteria, green algae, diatoms - Zooplankton: - Heterotrophs - Largest number of plankton - Most are very small (can only be seen with microscope) - Ex: some jellyfish, krill, foraminifera, larvae of marine animals
26
Nektons
Part of the pelagic zone, swims freely Includes: - Cephalopods - Reptiles (Sea Snakes, Sea Turtles) - Marine Birds (penguins, albatrosses, pelicans, gulls) - Fish (sharks, rays, etc.) - Marine mammals (Sea otters, walrus, polar bears, sea lions, seals, whales)
27
Benthic
Organisms live on or in the seafloor Seaweeds and marine plants - Rocky Shore (lichens, barnacles, mussels, oysters, sea urchins, anemone) - Tide Pools - Submerged Rocky bottoms - Deep sea floor - Coral Reefs - Tropical - Deep Water
28
Solar day and lunar day
Solar: 24 hours Lunar: 24 hours and 50 min
29
Autotroph vs heterotroph
Autotroph: Produces their own energy by using photosynthesis or chemosynthesis Heterotroph: Consumers, eats other organisms for energy
30
What causes a red tide (HABs) event? And why are they harmful?
Algal blooms Some are not toxic - Cause low oxygen conditions, clog gills, smother corals Some are toxic - Harms marine organisms & humans - Some toxins are airborne - Toxins bioaccumulate - Affects humans that eat shellfish and fish
31
What is shark finning?
The process of catching sharks to harvest their fins, usually discarding the rest Often for shark fin soup
32
How does chemosynthesis differ from photosynthesis?
Chemosynthesis uses chemical energy instead of light energy.
33
Swells vs typical wind driven waves
Swells are generated by distant storms and have longer periods and a more regular, less choppy appearance, often rolling gently. Wind-driven waves, on the other hand, are created by local winds and have shorter periods and a more irregular, choppy appearance.
34
Rogue waves
Waves that are: - Abnormally high - Appear suddenly - Constructive interference - Occurs near shelves edge
35
Countershading
A form of camouflage where the underside is lighter and the top side is darker Helping them blend into the environment by reducing shadows and making their body appear flat.
36
Countercurrent heat exchange
A process where warm and cold blood flow in opposite directions in adjacent vessels, allowing heat to be conserved in animals
37
Osmosis
Water to move from LOW salinity to HIGH salinity across a cell membrane
38
The Bends
The bends, or decompression sickness, occurs when a diver ascends too quickly, causing dissolved gases like nitrogen to form bubbles in the body, leading to joint pain, dizziness, or more serious health problems.
39
Bioluminescence
The production and emission of light by living organisms, such as some deep-sea fish and jellyfish, often used for attracting prey, communication, or camouflage.
40
Pollutants vs toxicants
Pollutants: Any substance that we release that messes up environment - Examples: Factory smoke, pesticides, & trash Anything that makes the environment less clean and healthy! Toxicants: Pollutants that have the potential to make living things sick or cause other harm - Examples: lead, mercury, pesticides They donโ€™t just dirty the environment; they are actively dangerous to living things!
41
Flotsam vs jetsam
FLOTSAM โ€“ NOT deliberately thrown overboard (FLOating accidentally) JETSAM โ€“ Deliberately thrown overboard (JETtisoned intentionally)
42
Bioaccumulation vs biomagnification
BIOACCUMULATION increased concentration in same organism BIOMAGNIFICATION increased concentration across food chain
43
What caused the tragedy at Minimata, Japan
Minamata Disease was caused by the consumption of fish and shellfish contaminated by methylmercury compound discharged from a chemical plant.
44
Define PFAs and describe their origin.
PFAs= Forever chemicals They are human made and there are over 5k types
45
Largest source of oil spill in the oceans.
Natural seeps (46%)
46
Photic zone
The top layer of the ocean where sunlight reaches, allowing photosynthesis. ~200m
47
Aphotic zone
The deep part of the ocean where no sunlight reaches.
48
Neritic zone
The shallow ocean area over the continental shelf, rich in life.
49
Oceanic zone
The deep, open ocean beyond the continental shelf.
50
Benthic zone
The ocean floor, including the bottom of all ocean zones.
51
Pelagic zone
The open water area, not near the bottom or shore.

Oceanography (3 decks)

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