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Miladys Chapter 13-chemistry > Glossary > Flashcards

Glossary Flashcards

0
Q

Alcohol

A

Antiseptic and solvent used in perfumes, lotions, and astringents. SD alcohol is a special denatured ethyl alcohol

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1
Q

Alphahydroxy acid’s

A

Abbreviated AHA’s; acids derived from plants (mostly fruit) that are often used to exfoliate the skin; mild acids: glycolic, lactic, Malic, and tartaric acid. AHAs exfoliate by loosening the bonds between dead corneum cells and dissolve the intercellular matrix. Acids also stimulates cell renewal

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2
Q

Algae

A

Derived from minerals and photohormones; remineralizes and revitalizes the skin

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3
Q

Allantoin

A

And anti-inflammatory compound isolated from herb Comfrey; it is used in creams, hand lotion, hair lotion, aftershave, and other skin soothing cosmetics for its ability to heal wounds and skin ulcers and to stimulate the growth of healthy tissue

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4
Q

Aloe vera

A

Most popular botanical used in cosmetic formulation; emollient and film forming gum resin with hydrating, soothing, healing, and anti-microbial, and anti-inflammatory properties

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5
Q

Alpha lipoic acid

A

And natural molecule found in every cell in the body; it is a powerful antioxidant and is soluble in water and oil

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6
Q

Alum

A

Compound made of aluminum, potassium, or ammonium sulfate with strong astringent action

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7
Q

Ampoules

A

Small, sealed vials containing a single application of highly concentrated extracts in a water or oil base

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8
Q

Anhydrous

A

Describes products that do not contain any water

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9
Q

Aromatherapy

A

Therapeutic use of plant aromas and essential oils for beauty and health treatment purposes; involves the use of highly concentrated, nonoily, and volatile essential oils to induce such reactions as relaxation and invigoration, or to simply create a pleasant fragrance during the service

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10
Q

Astringents

A

Liquids that help remove excess oil on the skin

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11
Q

Azulene

A

Derived from the chamomile plant and characterized by its deep blue color; has anti-inflammatory and soothing properties

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12
Q

Benzyl peroxide

A

Drying ingredient with antibacterial properties commonly used for blemishes and acne

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13
Q

Beta glucans

A

Ingredients used in antiaging cosmetics to help reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles by stimulating the formation of collagen

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14
Q

Beta hydroxy acids

A

Abbreviated BHAs; exfoliating organic acid; salicylic acid, milder than alphahydroxy acid’s (AHA’s). BHA’s dissolve oil and are beneficial for oily skin

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15
Q

Binders

A

Substances such as glycerin that bind, or hold, products together

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16
Q

Botanicals

A

Ingredients derived from plants

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17
Q

Calendula

A

Anti-inflammatory plant extract

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18
Q

Carbomers

A

Ingredients used to thicken cream; frequently used in gel products

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19
Q

Carrot

A

Rich in vitamins A, commonly derived from seeds and as an oil; also used as product colorant

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20
Q

Certified colors

A

Inorganic color agents also known as metal salts; listed on ingredient labels as D&C (drug and cosmetic)

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21
Q

Chamomile

A

Plant extract with calming and soothing properties

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22
Q

Chelating agent

A

A chemical added to cosmetics to improve the efficiency of the preservative

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23
Q

Chemical exfoliation

A

Chemical agent that dissolves dead skin cells and the intercellular matrix, or “glue”, that holds them together (desmosomes)

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24
Clay masks
Oil absorbing cleaning mask that draws impurities to the surface of the skin as a dry and tighten
25
Cleansers
Soaps and detergents that clean the skin
26
Coenzyme Q 10
Powerful antioxidant that protects and revitalize the skin cells
27
Colorants
Substances such as vegetable, pigment, or mineral dyes that give products color
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Comedogenicity
Tendency of any topical substance to cause or to worsen a build up in the follicle, leading to the to the development of a comedo (blackhead)
29
Cosmeceuticals
Products intended to improve the skins health and appearance
30
Cosmetics
As defined by the FDA: articles are intended to be rubbed, poured, sprinkled or otherwise apply to the human body or any part thereof for cleansing, beautifying, promoting attractiveness, or altering the appearance
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Delivery systems
Systems that deliver ingredients to specific tissues of the epidermis
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Detergents
Type of surfactant used as cleansers and skin cleansing products
33
DMAE
Dimethylaminoethanol; antioxidant that stabilizes cell membranes and boost the effects of other antioxidants
34
Echinacea
Derived of the purple coneflower; prevents infection and has healing properties; used internally to support immune system
35
Emollients
Oil or fatty ingredients that lubricate, moisturize, and prevent water loss
36
Emulsifiers
Surfactants that cause oil and water to mix and form an emulsion; an ingredient that brings two normally incompatible materials together and binds them into a uniform and fairly stable blend
37
Enzyme peels
Enzyme Products that dissolve keratin proteins (dead skin cells) and exfoliate the skin
38
Essential oils
Oils derived from herbs; have many different properties and affects on the skin and psyche
39
Exfoliants
Mechanical and chemical products or processes used to exfoliate the skin
40
Exfoliation
Peeling or sloughing of the outer layer of skin
41
Fatty acids
Emollients; lubricant ingredients derived from plant oils or animal fats
42
Fatty alcohols
Emollients; fatty acids that have been exposed to hydrogen
43
Fatty esters
Emollients produced from fatty acids and alcohols
44
Fragrances
Give products their scent
45
Fresheners
Skin freshening lotions with a low alcohol content
46
Functional ingredients
Ingredients in cosmetic products allow the products to spread, give them body and texture, and give them a specific form such as a lotion, cream, or gel. Preservatives are also functional ingredients
47
Glycerin
Formed by a decomposition of oils or fat; excellent skin softener and humectant; very strong water binder; sweet, colorless, oily substance used as a solvent and as a moisturizer in skin and body creams
48
Glycoproteins
Skin conditioning agents derived from carbohydrates and proteins that enhance cellular metabolism and wound healing
49
Gommage
Also known as roll off mask; exfoliating creams that are rubbed off the skin
50
Grapeseed extract
Powerful antioxidant was soothing properties
51
Green tea
Powerful antioxidant and soothing agent; antibacterial, anti-inflammatory, and a stimulant
52
Healing agents
Substances such as chamomile or aloe that help to heal the skin
53
Herbs
Hundreds of different herbs that contain photohormones are used in skincare products and cosmetics; they heal, stimulate, soothe and Moisturize
54
Horsechestnut
Extract containing bioflavonoids; also known as vitamin P. Help strengthen capillary walls; used for Couperose areas or telangiectasia
55
Humectants
Ingredients that attract water. Humectant draw moisture to the skin and soften its surface, diminishing lines caused by dryness
56
Hydrators
Ingredients that attract water to the skin surface
57
Hydrophilic agents
Ingredients to attract water to the skin surface
58
Jojoba
Oil widely used in cosmetics; extracted from the bean-like seeds of the desert shrub. Used as a lubricant and noncomedogenic emollient and moisturizer
59
Keratolytic
Agent that causes exfoliation, or sloughing, of skin cells
60
Kojic acid
Skin brightening agent
61
Lakes
Insoluble pigments made by combining a dye with an inorganic material
62
Lanolin
Emollient with moisturizing properties; also an emulsifier with high water absorption capabilities
63
Lavender
Antiallergenic, anti-inflammatory, antiseptic, antibacterial, balancing, energizing, soothing, and healing
64
Licorice
Anti-irritant used for sensitive skin; helps lighten pigmentation
65
Lipids
Fats or fat like substances; lipids help repair and protect the barrier function if the skin
66
Liposomes
Closed-lipid bilayer spheres that encapsulate ingredients, target their delivery to specific tissues of the skin, and control their release
67
Lubricants
Coat the skin and reduce friction; mineral oil is a lubricant
68
Mask
Also known as pack or masques; concentrated treatment products often composed of herbs, vitamins, mineral clays, moisturizing agents, skin softeners, aromatherapy oils, beneficial extracts, and other beneficial ingredients to cleanse, exfoliate, tighten, tone, hydrate, and nourish and treat the skin
69
Mechanical exfoliation
Physical method of rubbing dead cells off of the skin
70
Methylparaben
One of the most frequently used preservatives because of it's very low sensitizing potential; combats bacteria and molds; noncomedogenic
71
Mineral oil
Lubricant derived from petroleum
72
Modelage mask
Also known as thermal mask; thermal heat masks; facial masks containing special crystals if gypsum, a plaster-like ingredient
73
Moisturizers
Products formulated to add moisture to the skin
74
Noncertified colors
Colors that are organic, meaning they come from animal or plant extracts; they can also be natural mineral pigments
75
Oil soluble
Compatible with oil
76
Olfactory system
Gives us out sense of smell, which is the strongest of the five senses
77
Papaya
Natural enzyme used for exfoliation and in enzyme peels
78
Parabens
One if the most commonly used groups if preservatives in the cosmetics, pharmaceutical, and food industries; provide bacteriostatic and fungistatic activity against a diverse number of organisms
79
Paraffin wax masks
Masks used to warm the skin and promote penetration of ingredients through the heat trapped under the surface of the paraffin
80
Peptides
Chains of amino acids that stimulate fibroblasts, cell metabolism, collagen, and improve skins firmness. Larger chains are called polypeptides
81
Performance ingredients
Ingredients in cosmetic products that cause the actual change in the appearance of the skin
82
Petroleum jelly
Occlusive agent that restores the barrier layer by holding in water; used after laser surgery to protect the skin while healing
83
pH adjusters
Acids it alkalis (bases) used to adjust the pH of products
84
Phytotherapy
Use of plant extracts for therapeutic benefits
85
Polyglucans
Ingredients derived from yeast cells that help strengthen the immune system and stimulate the metabolism; also hydrophilic and help preserve and protect collagen and elastin
86
Polymers
Chemical compounds formed by combining a number of small molecules (monomers) into long chain like structures; advanced vehicles that release substances onto the skin surface at a microscopically controlled rate
87
Potassium hydroxide
Strong alkali used in soaps and creams
88
Preservatives
Chemical agents that inhibit the growth of microorganisms and cosmetic formulations. These kill bacteria and prevent products from spoiling
89
Propylene glycol
Humectant often used in dry – or sensitive skin moisturizers
90
Quaternium 15
All purpose preservative active against mold, and yeast. It is probably the greatest formaldehyde releaser among cosmetic preservatives; may cause dermatitis and allergies
91
Retinol
Natural form of vitamin a; stimulate cell repair and helps to normalize skin cells by generating new cells
92
Rose
Credited with moisturizing, astringent, tonic, and deodorant properties; found in the forms of rose extract, oil, or water
93
Salicylic acid
Beta hydroxy acid with exfoliating and antiseptic properties; natural sources include Sweet birch, willow bark, and wintergreen
94
Seaweed
Seaweed derivatives such as algae have many nurishing properties; known for its humectant and moisturizing properties, vitamin content, metabolism stimulation and detoxification, and aiding skin firmness
95
Serums
Concentrated liquid ingredients for the skin designed to penetrate and treat various skin conditions
96
Silicones
Oil that is chemically combined with silicon and oxygen and leaves a noncomedogenic protective film on the surface of the skin
97
Sodium bicarbonate
Baking soda; and alkaline and organic salt used as a buffering agent, neutralizer, and a pH adjuster
98
Sorbitol
Humectant that absorbs moisture from the air to prevent skin dryness
99
Sphingolipids
Ceramides, or lipid material, that are a natural part of the intercellular matrix. Glycosphingolipid's and phospholipids are also natural lipids found in the barrier layer
100
Squalene
Derived from olives; desensitizes and nourishes, and emollient
101
Squalene
Originally from shark liver oil; also occurs in small amounts in olive oil, wheat germ oil, and rice bran oil; also found in human sebum. A lubricant and perfume fixative
102
Stem cells
Derived from plants to protect or stimulate our own skin stem cells; for health and antiaging benefits
103
Sulfur
Sulfur reduces oil gland activity and dissolves the skin surface layer of dry, dead cells. This ingredient is commonly used in acne products
104
Sun protection factor
Abbreviated SPF; ability of a product to delay sun induced erythema, the visible sign of sun damage. The SPF rating is based only on UVB protection, not UVA exposure
105
Tea tree
Soothing and antiseptic; antifungal properties
106
Tissue respiratory factor
Abbreviated TRF; ingredient derived from yeast cells that functions as an anti-inflammatory and moisturizing ingredients
107
Titanium dioxide
Inorganic physical sunscreen that reflects UV radiation
108
Toners
Also known as fresheners or astringents; liquids designed to tone and tighten the skin's surface
109
Urea
Properties include enhancing the penetration abilities of other substances; anti-inflammatory, antiseptic, and deodorizing action that protects the skin surface and helps maintain healthy skin
110
Vehicles
Spreading agents and ingredients that carry or deliver other ingredients into the skin and make them more effective
111
Water soluble
Mixable with water
112
Witch hazel
Extracted from the bark of the hamamelis shrub; can be a soothing agent or, in a higher concentrations, an astringent
113
Zinc oxide
Inorganic physical sunscreen that reflects UVA radiation. Also used to protect, sooth and heal the skin; is somewhat astringent, antiseptic, and antibacterial

Miladys Chapter 13-chemistry (1 decks)

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