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Chapter13-chemistry/ingredients > Glossary/chapter13 > Flashcards

Glossary/chapter13 Flashcards

(114 cards)

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0
Q

Alcohol

A

Antiseptic and solvent used in perfumes, lotions, and astringents. SD alcohol is a special denatured ethyl alcohol.

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1
Q

Alpha hydroxy acids

A

Abbreviated AHAs; acids derived from plants that are often used to exfoliate the skin; mild acids: glycolic, lactic, malic, and tartaric acid. AHAs exfoliate by loosening the bonds between dead corneum cells and dissolve the intercellular matrix. Acids also stimulate cell renewal.

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2
Q

Algae

A

Derived from minerals and phytohormones; remineralizes and revitalizes the skin.

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3
Q

Allantoin

A

An anti-inflammatory compound isolated from the herb comfrey; it is used in creams, hand lotion, hair lotion, aftershave, and other skin-soothing cosmetics for its ability to heal wounds and skin ulcers and to stimulate the growth of healthy tissue.

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4
Q

Aloe Vera

A

Most popular botanical used in cosmetic formulations; emollient and film forming gum resin with hydrating, softening, healing, antimicrobial, and anti-inflammatory properties

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5
Q

Alpha lipoic acid

A

A natural molecule found in every cell in the body; it is a powerful antioxidant and is souluble in water and oil.

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6
Q

Alum

A

Compound made of aluminum, potassium, or ammonium sulfate with strong astringent action.

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7
Q

Ampoules

A

Small, sealed vials containing a single application of highly concentrated extracts in water or oil base.

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8
Q

Anhydrous

A

Describes products that do not contain any water.

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9
Q

Aromatherapy

A

Therapeutic use of plant aromas and essential oils for beauty and health treatment purpose; involves the use of highly concentrated, nonoily, and volatile essential oils to induce such reactions as relaxation and invigoration, or to simply create a pleasant fragrance during a service.

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10
Q

Astringents

A

Liquids that help remove excess oil on the skin.

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11
Q

Azulene

A

Derived from the chamomile plant and characterized by its deep blue color; has anti-inflammatory and soothing properties.

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12
Q

Benzyl peroxide

A

Drying ingredient with antibacterial properties commonly used for blemishes and acne.

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13
Q

Beta-glucans

A

Ingredients used in anti aging cosmetic to help reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles by stimulating the formation of collagen.

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14
Q

Beta hydroxy acids

A

Abbreviated BHAs; exfoliating organic acid; salicylic acid; milder than alpha hydroxy acid(AHAs). BHAs dissolve oil and are beneficial for oily skin.

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15
Q

Binders

A

Substances such as glycerin that bind, or hold, products together.

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16
Q

Botanicals

A

Ingredients derived from plants.

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17
Q

Calendula

A

Anti-inflammatory plant extract.

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18
Q

Carbomers

A

Ingredients used to thicken creams; frequently used in gel products.

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19
Q

Carrot

A

Rich in vitamin A, commonly derived from seeds and as an oil; also used as product colorant.

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20
Q

Certified colors

A

Inorganic color agents also known as metal salts; listed on ingredient labels as D&C (drug and cosmetic).

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21
Q

Chamomile

A

Plant extract with calming and soothing properties.

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22
Q

Chelating agent

A

A chemical added to cosmetics to improve the efficiency of the preservative.

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23
Q

Chemical exfoliation

A

Chemical agent that dissolves dead skin cells and the intercellular matrix, or “glue”, that holds them together (desmosomes)

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24
Clay masks
Oil-absorbing cleansing masks that draw impurities to the surface of the skin as they dry and tighten.
25
Cleansers
Soaps and detergents that clean the skin.
26
Coenzyme q10
Powerful antioxidant that protects and revitalize skin cells.
27
Colorants
Substances such as vegetable, pigment, or mineral dyes that give products color.
28
Comedogenicity
Tendency of any topical substance to cause or to worsen a buildup in the follicle, leading to the development of a comedo(blackhead).
29
Cosmeceuticals
Products intended to improve the skins health and appearances.
30
Cosmetics
As defined by the FDA: articles that are intended to be rubbed, poured, sprinkled or otherwise applied to the human body or any part thereof for cleansing, beautifying, promoting attractiveness, or alternating the appearance.
31
Delivery system
Systems that deliver ingredients to specific tissues of the epidermis.
32
Detergents
Types of surfactant used as cleansers in skin-cleansing products.
33
DMAE
Dimethylaminoethanol; antioxidant that stabilize cell membranes and boosts the effect of other antioxidants.
34
Echinacea
Derivative of the purple coneflower; prevents infection and has healing properties; used internally to support the immune system.
35
Emollients
Oil or fatty ingredients that lubricate, moisturizer, and prevent water loss.
36
Emulsifiers
Surfactants that cause oil and water to mix and form an emulsion; an ingredient that brings two normally incompatible materials together and binds them into a uniform and fairly stable blend.
37
Enzyme peels
Enzyme products that dissolve keratin proteins (dead skin cells) and exfoliate the skin.
38
Essential oils
Oils derived from herbs; have many different properties and effects on the skin and psyche.
39
Exfoliants
Mechanical and chemical products or processes used to exfoliate the skin.
40
Exfoliation
Peeling or sloughing of the outer layer of skin.
41
Fatty acids
Emollients; lubricant ingredients derived from plant oils or animal fats.
42
Fatty alcohols
Emollients; fatty acids that have been exposed to hydrogen.
43
Fatty esters
Emollients produced from fatty acids and alcohols.
44
Fragrances
Give products their scent
45
Fresheners
Skin-freshening lotions with a low alcohol content.
46
Functional ingredients
Ingredients in cosmetic products that allow the products to spread, give them body and texture, and give them a specific form such as a lotion, cream, or gel. Preservatives are also functional ingredients.
47
Glycerin
Formed by a decomposition of oils or fats; excellent skin softener and humectant; very strong water binder; sweet, colorless, oily substance used as a solvent and as a moisturizer in skin and body creams.
48
Glycoproteins
Skin-conditioning agents derived from carbohydrates and proteins that enhance cellular metabolism and wound healing.
49
Gommage
Also known as roll off mask; exfoliating creams that are rubbed off the skin.
50
Grape seed extract
Powerful antioxidant with soothing properties
51
Green tea
Powerful antioxidant and soothing agent; antibacterial, anti inflammatory, and a stimulant.
52
Healing agents
Substances such as chamomile or aloe that help to heal the skin.
53
Herbs
Hundreds of different herbs that contain phytohormones are used in skin care products and cosmetics; they heal, stimulate, soothe, and moisturize.
54
Horsechestnut
Extract containing bioflavonoids; also known as vitamin P. Helps strengthen capillary walls; used for couperose areas or telangiectasia.
55
Humectants
Ingredients that attract water. Humectants draw moisture to the skin and soften its surface, diminishing lines caused by dryness.
56
Hydrators
Ingredients that attract water to the skins surface.
57
Hydrophilic agents
Ingredients that attract water to the skins surface.
58
Jojoba
Oil widely used in cosmetics; extracted from the bean like seeds of the desert shrub. Used as a lubricant and noncomedogenic emollient and moisturizer.
59
Keratolytic
Agent that causes exfoliation, or sloughing, of skin cells.
60
Kojic acid
Skin brightening agent
61
Lakes
Insoluble pigments made by combining a dye with an inorganic material
62
Lanolin
Emollients with moisturizing properties; also an emulsifier with high water absorption capabilities
63
Lavender
Antiallergenic, anti inflammatory, antiseptic, antibacterial, balancing, energizing, soothing, and healing
64
Licorice
Anti irritant used for sensitive skin; helps lighten pigmentation.
65
Lipids
Fats or fat like substances; lipids help repair and protect the barrier function of the skin
66
Liposomes
Closed lipid bilayer spheres that encapsulate ingredients, target their delivery to specific tissues of the skin, and control their release
67
Lubricants
Coat the skin and reduce friction; mineral oil is lubricant
68
Mask
Also known as pack or masques; concentrated treatment products often composed of herbs, vitamins, mineral clays, moisturizing agents, skin softeners, aromatherapy oils, beneficial extracts, and other beneficial ingredients to cleanse, exfoliate, tighten, tone, hydrate, and nourish and treat the skin
69
Mechanical exfoliation
Physical method of rubbing dead cells off of the skin
70
Methylparaben
One of the most frequently used preservatives because of its very low sensitizing potential; combats bacteria and molds; noncomedogenic
71
Mineral oil
Lubricant derived from petroleum
72
Modelage masks
Also known as thermal masks; thermal heat masks; facial masks containing special crystals of gypsum, plaster like ingredients.
73
Moisturizers
Products formulated to add moisture to the skin
74
Noncertified colors
Colors that are organic, meaning they come from animal or plant extracts; they can also be natural minerals pigments
75
Oil soluble
Compatible with oil
76
Olfactory system
Gives us our sense of smell, which is the strongest of the five senses
77
Papaya
Natural enzyme used for exfoliation and in enzyme peels
78
Parabens
On of the most commonly used groups of preservatives in the cosmetic, pharmaceutical, and food industries; provide bacteriostatic and fungistatic activity against a diverse number of organisms
79
Paraffin wax masks
Mask used to warm the skin and promote penetration of ingredients through the heat trapped under the surface of the paraffin.
80
Peptides
Chains of amino acids that stimulate fibroblasts, cell metabolism, collagen, and improve skins firmness. Larger chains are called polypeptides.
81
Performance ingredients
Ingredients in cosmetic products that cause the actual changes in the appearance of the skin.
82
Petroleum jelly
Occlusive agent that restores the barrier layer by holding in water, used after laser surgery to protect the skin while healing
83
pH adjusters
Acids or alkalis (bases) used to adjust the pH of products.
84
Phototherapy
Use of plant extracts for therapeutic benefits
85
Polyglucans
Ingredients derived from yeast cells that help strengthen the immune system and stimulate the metabolism; also hydrophilic and help preserve and protect collagen and elastin.
86
Polymers
Chemical compounds formed by combining a number of small molecules (monomers) into long chain like structures; advanced vehicles that release substances onto the skins surface at microscopically controlled rate
87
Potassium hydroxide
Strong alkali used in soaps and creams
88
Preservatives
Chemical agents that inhibit the growth of microorganisms in cosmetic formulations. These kill bacteria and prevent products from spoiling
89
Propylene glycol
Humectant often used in dry or sensitive skin moisturizers
90
Quaternium 15
All purpose preservative active against bacteria, mold, and yeast. It is probably the greatest formaldehyde releaser among cosmetic preservatives; may cause dermatitis and allergies
91
Retinal
Natural form of vitamin A; stimulates cell repair and helps to normalize skin cells by generating new cells
92
Rose
Credited with moisturizing, astringent, tonic, and deodorant properties; found in the forms of rose extracts, oil or water
93
Salicylic acid
Beta hydroxy acid with exfoliating and antiseptic properties; natural sources include sweet birch, willow bark, and wintergreen
94
Seaweed
Seaweed derivatives such as algae have many nourishing properties; known for its humectant and moisturizing properties, vitamin content, metabolism stimulation and detoxification and aiding skin firmness
95
Serums
Concentrated liquid ingredients for the skin designed to penetrate and treat various skin conditions
96
Silicones
Oil that is chemically combined with silicone and oxygen and leaves a noncomedogenic, protective film on the surface of the skin
97
Sodium bicarbonate
Baking soda; an alkaline inorganic salt used as a buffering agent, neutralizer, and a pH adjuster
98
Sorbitol
Humectant that absorbs moisture from the air to prevent skin dryness
99
Sphingolipids
Ceramides, or lipid material, that are a natural part of the intercellular matrix. Glycosphingolipids and phospholipids are also natural lipids found in the barrier layer.
100
Squalane
Derived from olives; desensitized and nourishes; an emollient
101
Squalene
Originally from shark liver oil; also occurs in small amounts in olive oil, wheat germ oil, and rice bran oil; also found in human sebum. A lubricant and perfume fixative
102
Stem cells
Derived from plants to protect or stimulate our own skin stem cells; for health and anti aging benefits
103
Sulfur
Sulfur reduces oil gland activity and dissolves the skins surface layer of dry, dead cells. This ingredient is commonly used in acne products
104
Sun protection factor
Abbreviated SPF; ability of a product to delay sun induced erythema, the visible sign of sun damage. The SPF rating is based only on UVB protection, not UVA exposure
105
Tea tree
Soothing and antiseptic; antifungal properties
106
Tissue respiratory factor
Abbreviated TRF; ingredients derived from yeast cells that functions as an anti inflammatory and moisturizing ingredient
107
Titanium dioxide
Inorganic physical sunscreen that reflects UV radiation
108
Toners
Also known as freshers or astringents; liquids designed to tone and tighten the skins surface.
109
Urea
Properties include enhancing the penetration abilities of other substances; anti inflammatory, antiseptic and deodorizing action that protects the skins surface and helps maintain healthy skin
110
Vehicles
Spreading agents and ingredients that carry or deliver other ingredients into the skin and make them more effective
111
Water soluble
Mix able with water
112
Witch hazel
Extracted from the bark of the hamamelis shurb; can be a soothing agent or in higher concentrations, an astringent
113
Zinc oxide
Inorganic physical sunscreen that reflects UVA radiation. Also used to protect, soothe, and heal the skin; is somewhat astringent, antiseptic, and antibacterial

Chapter13-chemistry/ingredients (1 decks)

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