Greece

Question 1

Describe the growing environment of Greece

Answer 1

• Vyards between 34-42 degrees N; Mediterranean climate w/long, hot summers and short, mild winters. Inland, climate is incr’ly cont’l and spring frost is a risk in northern areas
• Mountainous so slopes/aspects/altitutdes, w/some very cool sites (Amyndeon, Matinia) where grapes don’t reach full ripeness. Flatter areas on inner plains are hot but have sea as moderator.
• On islands, winds are constant threat - stops photosynthesis, disrupt FFS, destroy vines, incr. water stress.
• 400-700mm rain/yr but not during growing season (except mountainous areas to N & W). Water stress is an issue; irrigation often essential where available.
• Soils: Wide range, limestone to volcanic. Except for fertile plains, soils are low in nutrients w/yields trad’ly low.

Question 2

Describe grape growing in Greece

Answer 2

• Small holdings, avg just over 0.5 ha; size + terrain = worked by hand.
• Viticulture is mix of trad’l & modern. Most vyards trellised w/VSP (cordon); others have specialized systems, e.g., kouloura (basket) trained in Santorini.
• Hot + dry = organic, biodynamic suitability.
• Irrigation permitted and used mainly for int’l varieties like Cab Sauv, Merlot; local varieties are drought tolerant. Depends soil type/ability to retain H20.

Question 3

What are the key grape white grape varieties in Greece?

Answer 3

• 90% of all (red & black) plantings are indigenous varieties which offer a point of difference on export markets.
• Int’l varieties planted in the 80’s was b/c domestic demand & familiarity in export mkts. Used in blends, they give buyers something recognizable, e.g., Sauv B + Assyrtiko; Merlot + Xinómavro
• White grapes are 70% of production.
• Savatiano is MPV b/c drought tolerant; used for hi vol/inexp wines and Retsina
• Roditis is 2nd MPV, high yielding, used for inexp wines & blender in Retsina.
• Assyrtiko is most prized; adaptable & retains acidity even during hot weather, which balances alc, makes wines ageworthy.
• Moschofilero prized for quality potential; aromatic similar to Muscat; used for high acidity, light bodied wines; pink skin so some wines pink tinge. Mainly planted in Mantinia (Peloponnese).
• Malagousia making a comeback after almost extinct, makes high quality wines med acid/med body/complex and intense aromas of stone fruit/flowers.

Assyrtiko is also used for lusciously sweet, passito wines (Vinsanto)

Question 4

Describe the black grape varieties in Greece

Answer 4

• Agiogitiko is MPV black; 3rd MPV overall. Wines from light/fruity early drink to complex, full-bodied, ageworthy. Deep color, med acid/med-high tannins (soft) and med alc. Ripe red fruit, spice, oak often w/% new. Highly regarded in PDO Nemea.
• Xinómavro most prized local black. Famous in Naoussa (Macedonia). Similar to Nebbiolo - high acid, high grippy tannins in youth, vegetal aromas vs fruity. Wines are pale and go garnet quickly. Best wines from low-yielding vines, aged in oak, ageworthy and complex. Some prods making accessible, youthful versions w/riper grapes and light extraction to tame tannins and acidity and highlight fruit. Oak often; blend w/Merlot soften rough edges.

Question 5

Describe winemaking in Greece

Answer 5

• Prod decreasing since 90’s (3.5M hL in 1990 vs 2.6M hL 2017)
• Most wineries use modern presses, temp controlled st steel for fermentation. Oak barriques (French, some American) popular from 80’s and still common but restrained use of oak trending.
• Modern producers also returning to trad’l methods (ambient yeast, shorter extraction, amphorae maturation; lees contact, e.g., Assyrtiko).
• Long tradition of sweet, passito wines from white and black grapes; Muscat is 1 of the most common.

Retsina does not meet EU def. of wine b/c not 100% grapes

Question 6

Describe Greece’s appellation laws and regulations.

Answer 6

POP (Prostatevmeni Onomasia Proelefsis) = PDO.

• 33 in Greece, 20% of all production, each with own rules on growing and winemaking. PDO Naoussa has ageing requirements.
• Excepting Muscat, all PDO wines are usually restricted to local varieties.

PGE (Prostatevmeni Geografiki Endiksi) = PGI

• Over 120, 62% of all production, less strict rules and int’l varieties permitted.

“Wines of Greece” = No GI

• Mainly used for hi vol brands, grapes from across regions; 18% of all production

OKP = special category for trad’l products, esp’ly Retsina

Question 7

Describe the growing environment of Macedonia

Answer 7

• Northern border of the country
• Wide range of conditions from mountains in N & W, to plains to the E.
• Mountains: Continental climate; rain 650-700mm/yr; water not a big issue.
• Plains: Warm Mediterranean climate; in rainshadow so drier; fertile soils suited for high vol wines

Question 8

What are the key PDO’s in Macedonia?

Answer 8

PDO Naoussa

PDO Amynteo

Question 9

Describe the growing environment, grape growing and winemaking of PDO Naoussa?

Answer 9

• SE slopes of Mt. Vermio; plantings 150-400m (best sites sheltered from strong, cold winds fr. N & W.
• Complex mix of soils, microclimates, aspect/topography > altitude.
• Wines must be 100% Xinómavro; gen’ly they are high acidity/tannins w/great complexity of aromas and ageworthy for decades; good to outs/mid to premium price.
• Trad’l style: Matured in large, old oak vessels for spicy meaty > fruity. 90’s style: New French barriques for even firmer tannins. Modern Restrained style; riper fruit, cold soak or whole bunch ferm for deep colored but less tannic wine highlighting fruit.
• Some prods making village or single-vyard to highlight certain sites

Rosé is not permitted

Question 10

Name some key producers in PDO Naoussa

Answer 10

Thymiopoulos Vineyards

Kir-Yianni

Question 11

Describe the growing environment, grape growing and winemaking in PDO Amynteo.

Answer 11

• NW slopes of Mt. Vermio, higher than Naoussa, 570-750m; near lakes which moderate extremes.
• Northerly aspect = exposed to cold winds from N = cool summers, cold winters, therefore
• Site selection is crucial. Near lakes, humidity higher (risk of rot), soil more fertile (control vigour to ensure ripening). Frost is a risk in some years.
• All PDO wines must be 100% Xinómavro; rosé is permitted.
• Cooler = lighter style, lower tannins than Naoussa; best have floral quality. More concentrated style from old vines on sandy soils. Modern style is riper and more accessible. Mid-priced, good to vgood w/some outstanding.
• PGI wines blend Xinómavro with Merlot, others.

Question 12

Name some key producers in PDO Amynteo

Answer 12

Alpha Estate

Question 13

What are the key PDO’s of the Peloponnese?

Answer 13

PDO Nemea

PDO Mantinia

Question 14

Describe the growing environment, grape growing and winemaking of PDO Nemea

Answer 14

Medit. climate, rain in fall/winter but yearly variances 400-900mm = vintage variation. Three zones:

1. Valley Floor: 230-400m; is hottest (up to 40C) and most fertile; ripe grapes for inexp or sweet wines.
2. Middle Zone: 450-650m; is cooler and best for quality wines. Poor, free-draining soils limit yields, slower ripening (retain acidity) but varying microclimates based on aspects/altitudes, soil type. Possible cru system in future.
3. High Zone: 650-1000m; Agiorgitiko struggles to ripen b/c cool & clay soils; high acid/tannins so used for rosé production (outside PDO). Fresh red style is a possibility.

PDO wines must be red, 100% Agiorgitiko, dry or sweet. Trad’l style: Subtle use of oak; 1990’s: French barriques; Modern style: semi-carbonic for fruity, low tannin. There are acceptable/good inexp and very good/outstanding ageworthy premium & super prem.

Question 15

Name some key producers in PDO Nemea

Answer 15

Gaia Wines

Tselepos

Question 16

Describe the growing environment, grape growing and winemaking of PDO Mantinia

Answer 16

• SW of Nemea on plateau at 600m+; altitude makes it one of the coolest areas for wine in Greece, w/long growing season w/harvest in Oct/Nov and some years grapes don’t fully ripen.
• PDO is for whites only; Moschofilero must be min 85% of blend; highest quality usu 100%.
• Cool temp = high acidity, low/med alc, med(-) body, floral/spice. Style is young, for early drinking fermented in temp controlled st steel to retain freshness. Usu mid-priced, good to vgood.

Question 17

Name some significant producers in PDO Mantinia

Answer 17

Boutaris

Seméli Estate

Question 18

Describe the growing environment in the Islands of Greece

Answer 18

• Aegean has strong winds; islands have low rainfall, rocky soils, poor water retention = viticulture is expensive.
• Still, some islands produce high quality wines.

Question 19

Describe the growing environment and viticulture in PDO Santorini

Answer 19

• Very strong winds; vines are woven into a hollow basket shape (kouloures) to provide shelter. Requires 4x the labor of conventional trellising.
• Some experiments with VSP in sheltered areas but highly controversial bc not trad’l.
• Little rain with some seasons completely dry. Moisture comes from morning fog which is trapped by kouloures.
• Vine densities very low as a result; < 2500/ha.
• No phylloxera; some vines estimated 400+ years old.
• Volcanic soil is infertile = low vigour, low yields (lowest in Greece @ 60hl/ha) as low as 15 hl/ha from oldest vines.

Question 20

Describe the grape varieties and winemaking in PDO Santorini

Answer 20

• Dry and sweet wines; dry must be min 75% Assyrtiko; sweet must be 51% Assyrtiko. Many of the best wines are 100%.
• Dry style: high acidity, med-high alc, distinctive smoky note w/fruit. Best wines can age ~10 yrs in bottle to honey/toasty. Most ferm’d low temp/st steel or neutral to retain fruit. Some experiment with oak maturation and lees for body & complexity
• Sweet style: Vinsanto from late-harvested grapes; passito (up to 2 wks). Must be aged min 2 yrs in oak; many age longer. Large casks w/ullage to encourage oxidation. Flavors of raisin, coffee, chocolate. 200-300g/L rs are bal’d by acidity; most good to outstanding. Limited production = high, super prem prices.
• Increasing demand for dry PDO Santorini wines is driving these wine prices up, along with high prod cost.

Question 21

Name some key producers in PDO Santorini

Answer 21

Estate Argyos

Domaine Sigalas

Question 22

Comment on the wine business of Greece

Answer 22

• Highly fragmented holdings of 7K growers who sell to larger producers (Greek Wine Cellars & Boutaris Group are the largest).
• > 1000 wineries, most small selling locally or in bulk to co-ops/large companies.
• Trend of small wineries marketing & selling their own wines.
• 13% exported (Germany 40%), Scandinavia, Benelux for large amt of cheap wines; declining.
• US, Canada leading export markets for higher quality wines, also Australia, UK. Weak economy = great value in export markets; few wines reach premium prices, incl highest quality.

Question 23

What is the key challenge for Greek producers in marketing their wines globally? Domestically?

Answer 23

• Must introduce consumers to unfamiliar grape varities, difficult to pronounce.
• On the other hand, these varieties offer a great point of difference in the market, e.g., Assyrtiko has had success in export markets and other wines gaining recognition.
• Unfamiliar language and alphabet are obstacles, so producers looking to export use Latin alphabet on labels and PDO/PGI instead of the Greek letter equivalents.
• Wines of Greece, the promotional body, actively promotes and educates trade and consumers.
• Domestically, many wine drinkers prefer wines from int’l varieties.