Hair And Color Chemistry Flashcards
(271 cards)
1
Q
How many different representations of a cross section of hair is represented in the hair structure slide?
A
2
2
Q
What are the differences between the two cross section of hair presented on the hair structure slide?
A
One is the commonly accepted
-cuticle
-cortex
-medulla
One is what we refer to at APM
-Cuticle
-lipid cement layer
-cortex
3
Q
Why is the Alfaparf cross section of hair the preference for teaching?
A
The medulla is of no interest
The recognition of the lipid cement layer.
4
Q
Does the medulla always exist?
A
No
5
Q
Is the lipid cement layer a separate layer of the of the hair structure?
A
No
6
Q
Is the lipid cement layer integral to the cortex?
A
Yes
7
Q
What does the lipid cement layer allow us to recognize and analyze?
A
The difference between
a.) Damaged: structure
b.) Damaged: Dry
8
Q
What do we ask the group before we present slide 3 the hair structure slide?
A
What are the three layers of the hair and their functions?
9
Q
What is the opening question to start the class?
A
What was the first piece of hair science that you learned when you were training to become a hairdresser? OR What was the first piece of hair science that you were taught?
10
Q
Why do we ignore the medulla?
A
Because it has no true function.
11
Q
What is the importance of the lipid cement layer?
A
Allows for us to recognize and analyze the difference between damaged dry or damaged structure.
12
Q
What is the purpose of the medulla?
A
No true purpose
13
Q
What answers are we looking for when building the hair structure list and the functions of the cortex?
A
- cosmetic pigments
-natural pigments - Protein / Keratin
- Strength information about the hair.
14
Q
What answer are we looking for when building the hair structure list and the functions of the cuticle?
A
- the protective layer of the hair.
15
Q
What is the purpose of building the hair structure slide and the functions of each traditionally identified layers of the hair?
A
To introduce and separate the APM representation.
16
Q
What are the main ideas listed on the cortex slide?
A
- polypeptide chain
-healthy / damaged hair
-the bonds
17
Q
What idea about protein is discussed when presenting the cortex slide?
A
Protein is not one thing.
18
Q
Is protein one thing?
A
No
19
Q
What do amino acids group together to create?
A
Peptides
20
Q
What do peptides group together to make?
A
Polypeptides
21
Q
What do polypeptides group together to become?
A
Protein
22
Q
Where is “all of the work done” in the hair?
A
Cortex
23
Q
What is a protein?
A
A complex biological structure that we can manipulate.
24
Q
What are polypeptides held together with?
A
Some interesting bonds
25
What main ideas are listed on the slide that has two polypeptide chains with the bonds connecting them?
Hydrogen Bond
Ionic bond
Sulfur bridge
26
What is discussed on slide 5?
The bonds
27
What can be said about hydrogen bonds?
Weak, broken by water
28
What can be said about Ionic bonds?
Also weak, broken by a mild chemical such as shampoo.
29
When talking about curly to straight blow drying, what change is being discussed
Alfa keratin to beta keratin
30
What keratin is presenting itself when the hair is in its natural shape.
Alfa keratin
31
What keratin is presenting itself when the hair has been temporary changed?
Beta keratin
32
When the hair is re-wet after being styled and it returns to it’s natural state what is this due to?
The sulfur bridge.
33
Where is the memory of the hair contained?
The sulfur bridge
34
What gives the hair its identity?
The sulfur bridge
35
What question is asked after presenting slide 4 before presenting slide 5
How do I test for elasticity?
36
What should the state of the hair be in when performing an elasticity test?
Wet
37
Why is the elasticity test done on wet hair?
Because we break down the hydrogen and ionic bonds. We don’t care about them.
38
What action do hydrogen and ionic bonds provide to sulfur bonds?
Support
39
How many strands of hair should be used when performing an elasticity test?
3 - 5 , coarse -fine
40
Why isn’t 1 strand of hair recommended for an elasticity test?
Because it is not strong enough on its own and gives a false impression of damage.
41
Why is the range of elasticity done on 3-8 strands of hair?
Because one strand alone will give a false impression of damage.
42
When performing a strand test what are you looking for?
A point of resistance.
43
If hair is weak, what characteristic will it have
Little resistance
44
If hair is strong, what characteristic will it have?
More resistance
45
If hair has little resistance what is that telling us about the sulphur bridge?
That few of them are in tact.
46
If hair has a lot of resistance, what is this telling us about the sulfur bridge?
There are a lot of them intact.
47
What are the main talking points listed on slide 6 , Lipid Cement Layer.
- The importance of hydration
- How it effects the behavior in of the cuticle
- Combabilty test
48
How do we describe glass?
Strong and brittle
49
What happens if you drop an object made of glass?
Shatters and breaks
50
Why does glass break if it is dropped?
Because it is brittle
51
What is a way to explain brittle
Strength without flexibility
52
What does the hair have to be in order to be considered healthy?
Strong and flexible
53
What is the function of the lipid cement layer?
Hydration
54
When the lipid cement layer is well hydrated, what can we compare it to?
An inflated balloon.
55
What do we compare to an inflated balloon?
A well hydrated lipid cement layer.
56
A well hydrated lipid cement layer and an inflated ballon have what in common ?
A smooth surface
57
If the lipid cement layer a smooth, what does this allow the cuticle to do?
Lay smoothly around the surface of the cortex.
58
What is the lipid cement layer like when it’s dehydrated??
A deflated balloon.
59
If the lipid cement layer is dehydrated what characteristic does the surface have?
Irregular
60
What happens to the cuticle layer when the lipid cement layer is irregular?
It is forced open
61
What does the combabilty test tell us about ?
Hydration.
62
How do you prepare the hair for a combability test?
1.) Wash the hair with shampoo (no conditioner)
2.) gently towel dry
3.) choose a section of hair to detangle
63
How is the combability test done after the hair has been shampooed and towel dried?
By detangling a section of the hair.
64
If you have to comb the hair 1-2 times to detangle, what is this telling me about the hair?
The cuticle is closed , and the hair is healthy.
65
If you have to comb the hair 3-6 times what is this telling me about the hair?
That the cuticle is forced open and the hair is dry.
66
If you have to comb through the hair 7 + times what is this telling me about the hair?
That the cuticle is really forced open and the hair is very dry.
67
What is on slide 7?
Diagnosis axis
68
What is master colorist not just about?
The formula in the bowl
69
What is the master colorist program?
A holistic approach to hair color.
70
What do artists do before painting?
Prep their canvas
71
What do we as hair artists prep?
The hair
72
What does the hair diagnosis matrix allow for?
To understand how to recommend the correct care program for our client.
73
What is the journey we follow when repairing the hair?
From very damaged to very dry and through to healthy.
74
Can hair be damaged without being dry?
No
75
Why can’t hair be damaged without being dry?
Because damage happens from the outside in.
76
In what order is the hair structure damaged?
1.) cuticle
2.) lipid cement layer
3.) cortex
77
What metaphor is used to describe the protective layer of the hair and how it’s attacked?
Soldiers
78
What gets introduced after talking about the Diagnosis matrix?
Semi di lino
79
Why is SDL particular?
Each line has a totally unique formula
80
What is not a common method of manufacturing a care line?
Make a generic batch then add the active ingredients.
81
Because SDL is so targeted to heal problems of the hair what does it rely heavily on?
Diagnosis and recommendation by the stylist.
82
What does slide 8 talk about?
SDL Reconstruction
83
What are the key points on slide 8 “SDL reconstruction?
- Concentrated formula
- Rich in Silica - strength and resistance
- UDP
84
What amino acids make up the peptide in SDL reconstruction?
Glutamic acid
lysine acid
Lauric acid
85
How are the peptides in SDL reconstruction organized?
(Glutamic acid - lysine acid - glutamic acid ) joined to two chains of fatty acids called lauric acid
86
What does the peptide in SDL Reconstruction have an affinity to?
Water
87
What does the peptide in SDL reconstruction provide to the cortex?
Repair
88
What is attached to the outside of the peptide in SDL Reconstruction?
Lauric acid chains
89
What are the active ingredients in SDL Reconstruction?
Silica
Gemini Amphiphile
90
What is SDL rich in?
Silica
91
What is silica sourced from??
Bamboo
92
What is bamboo known for?
Strength
93
What does silica provide to the hair?
Support and strength
94
What is the peptide in SDL Reconstruction called?
Gemini Amphiphile
95
What is the Gemini Amphiphile made of??
Glutamic acid - Lysine acid and Lauric acid
96
What is the Gemini Amphiphile joined to?
Two Lauric acid chains
97
What does the Gemini Amphiphile do?
Reinforces the keratin chain by binding into the lipid cement layer.
98
What is Lauric acid?
A fatty acid
99
What does Lauric acid do?
Binds into the lipid cement layer.
100
Because Lauric acid can bind into the lipid cement layer, what does this allow the Gemini Amphiphile to do?
Have greater longevity in the hair
101
What is the reparative complex?
Silica + Gemini Amphiphile
102
Silica + Gemini Amphiphile = What?
Reparative complex
103
What is Urban Defense Pro
Ingredient which protects the hair against the negative effects of pollution.
104
What particles does UDP prevent from entering the hair
UM10 particles
105
What particles are small enough to enter the hair
UM10 particles
106
What particles are small enough to enter the hair.
UM10 / PM10
107
What are PM10 particles able to do?
Enter the hair and damage the bonds of the keratin chain.
108
When PM10 particles enter the hair, what do they do?
Damage the bonds of the keratin chain
109
What hair type is particularly effected by PM10 / UM10 particles?
Damaged hair
110
Why is damaged hair more susceptible to further damage from UM 10 /PM10 particles.
Because the cuticle is open and the particles can penetrate the hair easily
111
If the cuticle is open, what does this allow micro particles to do?
Penetrate the hair VERY EASILY
112
How does UDP work?
Forms a protective shield around the hair to prevent particles from entering the hair.
113
What is the main focus when presenting the SDL Reconstruction slide?
It is an “antibiotic” for the hair. Not a lifelong product.
114
Is SDL reconstruction a lifelong product?
No
115
Why is SDL Reconstruction not a lifelong product?
Exceptionally high in Active ingredients. Can over proteinize the hair and make it brittle.
116
What about SDL Reconstruction allows it to target Structural damage
High active ingredient content.
117
What is step one on the hair repair journey?
SDL Reconstruction
118
For a hair to be healthy it has to be strong and flexible. Where do these characteristics live within the layers of the hair?
Strength - cortex
Flexibility = hydration in the lipid cement layer.
119
What does the comb-ability test determine in the hair?
Flexibility and moisture content.
120
CWC + 20 vol in a 1:3 mixing ratio can create what?
Damage
121
Why could CWC + 20 vol in a 1:3 mixing ratio create damage?
Because the hair is flooded with oxygen.
122
What does a generic care formula conceal in the hair?
Damage
123
What does a generic hair formula do for the hair?
Provides maintenance
124
What must the stylist do when using SDL Reconstruction?
Prescribe and monitor the health of the hair between visits.
125
What must be monitored in between visits to the salon
The health of the hair.
126
Once a clients hair has been reconstructed, what happens in regards to prescribed hair care?
Graduate them to the moisture line (second step in hair repair journey)
127
What is slide 9?
SDL Moisture
128
What are the main talking points listed in slide 9 ?
-For hydration
-Honey Sugars
- Concentrated formula
- UDP
129
What is step 2 in the hair repair journey?
Replenish the moisture level of the hair.
130
Can hair be damaged without being dry?
No
131
What two product lines need a prescription by the stylist??
Reconstruction and Moisture
132
How do you determine if the hair needs the moisture line?
Combability test
133
What does the Combability test define?
How dehydrated the hair is.
134
Is Semi di lino Moisture a lifelong product?
No
135
Why isn’t semi di lino moisture a lifelong product?
Because of its concentrated formula.
136
How long should semi di lino moisture be used when prescribed to a client.
As needed.
137
What are the active ingredients in Semi Di Lino Moisture
Glucose, Fructose, Sucrose
138
Why are glucose , fructose, and sucrose used in semi di lino moisture?
They have a molecular structure that are similar to water and draw moisture into the hair.
139
Because glucose fructose and sucrose have a molecular structure similar to water, what does this do?
Draws moisture into the hair.
140
What 4 active ingredients get talked about when talking about SDL Moisture?
Glucose, Fructose, Sucrose Urban defense pro
141
In speaking to the lipid cement layer what effect from UM10 pollution particles have on the hair?
Significant negative effect on the lipid bonds in the hair.
142
What do a slide 10?
SDL - the lifelong products
143
What are the main talking points when discussing slide 10?
- Reconstruction and moisture are considered anti biotic for the hair
- Once repair has occurred we need to protect the hair
144
What does preparing the hair for color consist of?
Recommending the correct care program.
145
Once the hair has been correctly prepared for color by reconstructing and moisturizing what is to be done in relation to hair care?
Maintain and protect it.
146
What are the lifelong lines in Semi Di Lino?
- Diamond
- Sublime
- Curl
- volume
- smoothing
147
What was the sublime line created for ?
To encompass products that are suitable for All hair types.
148
What is slide 11?
Two cross sections of hair talking about the matter in the hair.
149
What is the example given for measurement of fine hair on slide 11
1 mm diameter, 12 pigment molecules fit into fine hair
2mm diameter coarse hair fits 40 molecules.
150
What is the example given for the measurement on slide 11?
1mm & 2mm
151
How many pigment molecules do we demonstrate fit into a fine hair.
12
152
What is the example given for the measurement in coarse hair?
2mm
153
How many pigments molecules do we demonstrate “fit” into the hair?
13 and 40
154
What is the point being made with the diagram of fine hair with 12 pigment molecules vs. coarse hair with 40 pigment molecules?
The difference between fine hair and coarse hair. = less matter vs. more matter.
155
Why are we making the distinction of fine hair has less matter vs coarse hair having more?
-It is easier to lighten fine hair.
- It is easier to color fiber hair
156
Why is it easier to lighten fine hair
Because there is less matter to break down, less pigment to lift out.
157
Why is it harder to lighten coarse hair?
Because there is more matter to break down, more pigment to lift out.
158
Why is it easier to color fine hair?
Because you don’t require so much pigment to fill it.
159
What slide 12?
Naturally occurring pigments
160
What are the listed talking points about slide 12?
- Eumelanin
Large black brown molecules
Responsible for depth
Easy to remove
- Pheomelanin
Small/medium orange-yellow molecules.
Difficult to remove
161
What type of pigments does hair contain?
Eumelanin
Pheomelanin
162
Why do we stress the unimportance of thinking of haircolor in Eumelanin and Pheomelanin?
Because it’s only useful for a biochemist to think of these things.
163
What do we think of about defining haircolor instead of Eumelanin and Pheomelanin ?
Blue, Red and yellow
164
What are the main points when talking about pigments?
-Fine hair contains less matter than coarse hair
-it’s easier to lighten fine hair because there is less matter to break down
- it’s easier to color fine hair.
165
What are the types of melanin mentioned on the naturally occurring pigments slide
- Eumelanin
- Pheomelanin
166
What size are Eumelanin molecules?
Large
167
What color are Eumelanin molecules?
Black / brown
168
What are Eumelanin molecules responsible for ?
Depth
169
Are Eumelanin molecules easy or hard to remove from the hair?
Easy
170
What size are Pheomelanin molecules?
Small / medium
171
What color are pheomelanin molecules?
Orange - yellow
172
Are pheomelanin molecules easy or hard to remove from the hair?
Hard
173
What size are the yellow color molecules in the hair?
Small
174
How much yellow molecules are in the hair?
A lot
175
What size are red molecules??
Medium
176
How much red molecules are in the hair ?
Moderate
177
What size are blue molecules?
Large
178
How much blue molecules are in the hair?
A small amount.
179
What molecules are easiest to remove?
Blue
180
What color molecules are hardest to remove?
Yellow
181
What is the box analogy?
- 2 rooms, same size
- 3 large boxes in one room
- 100 small boxes in the next room
- which room takes longer to empty?
182
What slide do the primary color molecules get talked about on?
Naturally occurring pigments (slide 12)
183
What slide is the box analogy discussed on?
Naturally occurring pigments (slide 12)
184
What is orange?
A combination of red and yellow.
185
Is orange forums in the hair?
No
186
What does pm 10 mean?
Particulate matter 10 microns or smaller
187
What does in um 10 mean ?
Ultra microscopic 10 microns or smaller
188
How many microns are in a millimeter?
1000
189
If pollutant molecules were 10 microns, how many of said molecules would fit in a milliliter?
100
190
What is the common idea discussed on slides 13,14, 15 and 16?
Distribution of pigments
191
What is discussed on slide 13?
Distribution of pigments:
- Client with red hair
- lots of red and yellow pigments in the hair
- fewer blue
- all three exist but the proportions change
192
What is the haircolor example on slide 13?
Red
193
What is discussed on slide 14?
Distribution of pigments :
- a lot of yellow pigments
- fewer red pigments
- very few blue
-all exist but in different proportions
194
What is the haircolor example on slide 14?
Natural 10 blonde
195
What is discussed on slide 15?
Distribution of pigments:
- very dark hair.
- even distribution of pigments
- dominancy towards red, then blue
- blue responsible for depth
- more blue means more depth
196
What is the haircolor example on slide 15?
Very dark hair
197
What primary molecule is responsible for depth.
Blue
198
What is discussed on slide 16?
- Level 10 blonde
-still see all primary pigments
- significantly reduced amount of pigments in the hair .
199
What is the hair color example on slide 16?
Level 10, platinum blonde.
200
If a client has red hair, what primary molecule is there most of?
Red
201
If a client has red hair, how much blue molecules are in the hair?
Few
202
If a client has natural blonde hair, what primary pigment molecule is there most of ?
Yellow
203
If a client has natural blonde hair , what primary pigment molecule is there least can of?
Blue.
204
What size is the blue molecule and what is it responsible for?
Large and responsible for depth
205
What is the distribution of pigments in dark hair?
More or less Even distribution with a slight dominancy towards red then blue.
206
In dark hair , what is there a slight dominancy towards ??
Red
207
Because dark hair has a slight dominancy towards red, what does it mean when lightening?
More warmth in the initial stages of lightening.
208
What pigments are present on a bleached platinum blonde?
All three primary pigments
209
What can be said about the quantity of pigments on a bleached platinum blonde
Significantly less quantity of pigments.
210
What are the states of the hair that have a relationship?
Porous - Normal- Resistant
211
What are often blamed for problems causing poor color outcomes?
Porosity and resistance
212
If porosity and resistance are not the problem of a bad color outcome what might it be?
The formula
213
What can porosity be a function of?
The hair being damaged
Or
It can grow out of the scalp this way
Or
Some types of grey hair
214
Can hair grow porous?
Yes.
215
What can porosity be a function of?
- Hair being damaged
216
If hair is porous does it automatically mean that it’s damaged?
No
217
What ethnic group typically grow porous hair?
Middle eastern
218
What color/type of hair can porosity naturally exist in?
Grey / white
219
Is resistant a state in which the hair grows?
Yes
220
Other than porous, what other states can hair grow out of the scalp?
Normal and resistant.
221
Is grey hair always resistant?
No.
222
What does resistance get blamed for?
Formulation failures
223
In the normal distribution curve, what does normal mean?
Most frequently occurring
224
Why must we be aware of what normal is on the “ normal distribution curve “?
For timing processes
225
What happens when .35 Gm and .32 Gv pigments are mixed with blonde /put on lighter levels?
Their behavior changes.
226
Why are the quantities of pigments recommended?
To ensure nothing scary happens and ensure you see the effect.
227
What do the recommended pigment quantities ensure?
That you see the effect.
228
Can you work outside of the recommended pigment recommendations?
Yes.
229
If you work outside of the reccommended pigment amounts what must you understand?
The outcomes.
230
What are Br, Rc, and Gb designed to do?
Maintain their corresponding EOC/CW tones.
231
What is an important point of Gb?
Use in greater quantities when mixing with color to make silver shades.
232
Why should Gb pigments be used In Greater quantities when mixing with color to make silver shades
Because it is light.
233
What are 3 important point ls about.21 Va Pigments recommended on levels 8-10?
- recommended on levels 8-10
- Reduces yellow,
- Not purple
234
What pigment shade reduces yellow but is not a strong purple?
.21 Va
235
What are 3 important point to make about .13 Ag Pigments?
- recommended on levels 7-10
- very light brown beige
- cooling effect
236
What pigments are a very light beige brown?
.13 Ag
237
What pigment has a cooling effect?
.13 Ag
238
What is an important point to make about .3 Gd pigments 5-7?
Really strong on levels 8 -10
239
What pigment tone is really strong at levels 8 - 10
Gold
240
What is an important point to make about .4 copper pigments 5-8?
Orange doesn’t exist at levels 9 and 10
241
What levels doesn’t orange exist at?
9 and 10
242
What are two important points about working with .1 Ah blue pigments
Reduce orange in levels 3-7
Green on levels 8, 9 and 10
243
What pigment color reduces/neutralizes orange on levels 3 - 7 ?
. 1 Ah
244
What does .1 Ah blue pigment do on levels 8, 9, and 10?
Make green
245
Where does correcting, preparing the canvas start?
In the consultation
246
What is the main advantage of pigments?
The colorist chooses the longevity because of what it gets mixed with.
247
How do you choose the longevity of pigments?
By what it gets mixed with.
248
Are .13 pigments and .13 EOC3 the same?
No
249
What happens to .13 Ag pigments when mixed with oxidative dye?
Ot turns peachy in an oxidative dye.
250
What pigments shade will turn “peachy” when mixed with oxidative dye ?
.13 Ag
251
How does .13 behave in EOC3
Reduces orange , enhances gold.
252
Because pigments are polarized, what does this mean?
That they can adapt to any environment.
253
What Ph do keratin therapy smoothing treatments have?
Between 1 and 2.
254
What Ph do treatments masks and conditioners have?
Between 4 and 5
255
What Ph do shampoos have?
Between 5 and 6
256
What Ph does water have?
7
257
What Ph does Demi permanent have ?
Between 8 and 9
258
What Ph does permanent color have?
Between 10 and 11
259
What Ph do perms and relaxers have?
Between 12 and 13
260
What else can pigments be mixed with that is not listed on the ph scale?
Styling products
261
Asides from fine hair being easier to lighten, because there is less matter to break down, what other reason is it easier to lift out melanin residue?
Less pigment to lift out.
262
Why should we be aware of the blue semi permanent dye molecule?
Because there’s no real way to remove it.
263
What semi permanent molecule is there no real way of removing?
Blue
264
What is the best solution for removing a blue semi permanent molecule from the hair?
Lighten to a pale blue then tone with EOC 3 9.04 + 10 vol 1:2
265
When should the blue “removal” formula be used?
Only when necessary.
266
When performing a Combability test and the hair can be combed through in 1-2 passes what does this indicate?
That it is healthy
267
If the hair is diagnosed to be healthy when performing a Combability test, how many passes will the comb have made to determine the outcome?
1-2
268
If the hair is diagnosed to be dry when performing a Combability test, how many passes will the comb have made to determine the outcome?
3-6
269
If the hair is diagnosed to be very dry when performing a Combability test, how many passes will the comb have made to determine the outcome?
7 +
270
When performing a Combability test and the hair can be combed through in 3-6 passes what does this indicate?
The hair is dry
271
When performing a Combability test and the hair can be combed through in 7 + passes what does this indicate?
The hair is very dry
