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What causes wind and how does it affect wave energy?
Wind moves from high pressure to low pressure areas due to variations in surface heating by the sun. A larger pressure gradient results in stronger winds, leading to stronger waves.
Wind strength is a critical factor in wave energy.
What is the duration of the wind’s effect on wave energy?
If the wind is active for longer periods, the energy of the waves will build up and increase.
Longer wind durations contribute to wave energy accumulation.
Define ‘fetch’ in the context of wave energy.
Fetch is the distance over which the wind blows. A larger fetch results in more powerful waves.
It is also the distance to the nearest land mass in a particular direction.
What are constructive waves?
Constructive waves tend to deposit material, creating depositional landforms and increasing the size of beaches.
These waves are typically associated with calmer weather conditions.
What are destructive waves?
Destructive waves act to remove depositional landforms through erosion, decreasing the size of a beach.
They are usually formed by localized storm events with stronger winds.
What is the wavelength of constructive waves?
Long wavelength
These waves have a frequency of 6-9 per minute.
What characterizes destructive waves in terms of wavelength and frequency?
Destructive waves have a short wavelength and a frequency of 11-16 per minute.
They create high waves that plunge onto the beach.
What is the swash and backwash characteristic of constructive waves?
Strong swash and weak backwash.
This contributes to beach building.
What is the effect of destructive waves on the beach?
Destructive waves have weak swash and strong backwash, occurring on steeply sloped beaches.
They are more common in winter months.
In which season do constructive waves dominate?
Summer.
In winter, destructive waves prevail.
What is tidal range?
The difference in height between high and low tides.
It is largest in channels such as river estuaries.
What creates a spring tide?
The highest high tides and lowest low tides occur when the sun and moon are in alignment.
This results in the largest possible tidal range.
What characterizes a neap tide?
The lowest high tide and highest low tides occur when the sun and moon are perpendicular to each other, creating the smallest possible tidal range.
This minimizes the overall gravitational pull.
What are rip currents?
Powerful underwater currents occurring close to the shoreline, formed when plunging waves cause a buildup of water at the top of the beach.
They can be dangerous but can be escaped by swimming parallel to the shore.
Differentiate between rip currents and riptides.
Rip currents occur close to the shoreline due to wave action, while riptides occur when the ocean tide pulls water through a small area like a bay or lagoon.
Both are important energy sources in coastal environments.
What are high-energy coastlines characterized by?
More powerful waves, a large fetch, frequent destructive waves, and typically eroding landscapes.
These coastlines often have rocky headlands.
What defines low-energy coastlines?
Less powerful waves, sheltered areas, prevailing constructive waves, and eroding landscapes.
These areas typically have sandy beaches.
What is wave refraction?
The process by which waves turn and lose energy around a headland on uneven coastlines, focusing energy on headlands and dissipating it in bays.
This process contributes to the formation of various coastal features.
What is the role of corrasion in coastal erosion?
Sand and pebbles are picked up by the sea and hurled against cliffs at high tide, causing erosion.
The effectiveness depends on sediment size, weight, and wave speed.
Define abrasion in the context of coastal erosion.
The process where sediment is moved along the shoreline, causing it to wear down over time.
It is akin to rubbing stones against a surface.
What is attrition?
Wave action causes rocks and pebbles to hit against each other, becoming round and smaller over time.
This process has little effect on coastal erosion itself.
Explain hydraulic action.
As waves crash onto rocks, air is forced into cracks, widening them and leading to rock fracture over time.
This process can cause significant erosion.
What is wave quarrying?
When breaking waves exert pressure on a cliff face, directly pulling away rocks and fragments.
It is similar to hydraulic action but acts with significantly more pressure.