import1 Flashcards

(113 cards)

1
Q
A
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2
Q

What causes wind and how does it affect wave energy?

A

Wind moves from high pressure to low pressure areas due to variations in surface heating by the sun. A larger pressure gradient results in stronger winds, leading to stronger waves.

Wind strength is a critical factor in wave energy.

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3
Q

What is the duration of the wind’s effect on wave energy?

A

If the wind is active for longer periods, the energy of the waves will build up and increase.

Longer wind durations contribute to wave energy accumulation.

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4
Q

Define ‘fetch’ in the context of wave energy.

A

Fetch is the distance over which the wind blows. A larger fetch results in more powerful waves.

It is also the distance to the nearest land mass in a particular direction.

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5
Q

What are constructive waves?

A

Constructive waves tend to deposit material, creating depositional landforms and increasing the size of beaches.

These waves are typically associated with calmer weather conditions.

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6
Q

What are destructive waves?

A

Destructive waves act to remove depositional landforms through erosion, decreasing the size of a beach.

They are usually formed by localized storm events with stronger winds.

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7
Q

What is the wavelength of constructive waves?

A

Long wavelength

These waves have a frequency of 6-9 per minute.

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8
Q

What characterizes destructive waves in terms of wavelength and frequency?

A

Destructive waves have a short wavelength and a frequency of 11-16 per minute.

They create high waves that plunge onto the beach.

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9
Q

What is the swash and backwash characteristic of constructive waves?

A

Strong swash and weak backwash.

This contributes to beach building.

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10
Q

What is the effect of destructive waves on the beach?

A

Destructive waves have weak swash and strong backwash, occurring on steeply sloped beaches.

They are more common in winter months.

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11
Q

In which season do constructive waves dominate?

A

Summer.

In winter, destructive waves prevail.

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12
Q

What is tidal range?

A

The difference in height between high and low tides.

It is largest in channels such as river estuaries.

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13
Q

What creates a spring tide?

A

The highest high tides and lowest low tides occur when the sun and moon are in alignment.

This results in the largest possible tidal range.

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14
Q

What characterizes a neap tide?

A

The lowest high tide and highest low tides occur when the sun and moon are perpendicular to each other, creating the smallest possible tidal range.

This minimizes the overall gravitational pull.

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15
Q

What are rip currents?

A

Powerful underwater currents occurring close to the shoreline, formed when plunging waves cause a buildup of water at the top of the beach.

They can be dangerous but can be escaped by swimming parallel to the shore.

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16
Q

Differentiate between rip currents and riptides.

A

Rip currents occur close to the shoreline due to wave action, while riptides occur when the ocean tide pulls water through a small area like a bay or lagoon.

Both are important energy sources in coastal environments.

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17
Q

What are high-energy coastlines characterized by?

A

More powerful waves, a large fetch, frequent destructive waves, and typically eroding landscapes.

These coastlines often have rocky headlands.

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18
Q

What defines low-energy coastlines?

A

Less powerful waves, sheltered areas, prevailing constructive waves, and eroding landscapes.

These areas typically have sandy beaches.

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19
Q

What is wave refraction?

A

The process by which waves turn and lose energy around a headland on uneven coastlines, focusing energy on headlands and dissipating it in bays.

This process contributes to the formation of various coastal features.

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20
Q

What is the role of corrasion in coastal erosion?

A

Sand and pebbles are picked up by the sea and hurled against cliffs at high tide, causing erosion.

The effectiveness depends on sediment size, weight, and wave speed.

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21
Q

Define abrasion in the context of coastal erosion.

A

The process where sediment is moved along the shoreline, causing it to wear down over time.

It is akin to rubbing stones against a surface.

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22
Q

What is attrition?

A

Wave action causes rocks and pebbles to hit against each other, becoming round and smaller over time.

This process has little effect on coastal erosion itself.

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23
Q

Explain hydraulic action.

A

As waves crash onto rocks, air is forced into cracks, widening them and leading to rock fracture over time.

This process can cause significant erosion.

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24
Q

What is wave quarrying?

A

When breaking waves exert pressure on a cliff face, directly pulling away rocks and fragments.

It is similar to hydraulic action but acts with significantly more pressure.

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25
List factors affecting coastal erosion.
* Waves * Beaches * Subaerial Processes * Rock Type * Rock Faults * Rock Lithology ## Footnote Each factor influences the rate and type of erosion.
26
What are the four main processes of coastal transportation?
* Traction * Saltation * Suspension * Solution ## Footnote These processes help move sediment within sediment cells.
27
Describe longshore drift.
Sediment moves along the beach as waves hit at an angle, pushing sediment up the beach in the swash and carrying it back down in the backwash. ## Footnote This process contributes to the directional movement of sediment.
28
What triggers deposition in coastal environments?
Deposition occurs when sediment becomes too heavy for the water to carry or when the wave loses energy. ## Footnote This process leads to the formation of distinct sandy or rocky beaches.
29
What is gravity settling?
A process where water's velocity decreases, causing sediment to begin depositing. ## Footnote It is one of the mechanisms of deposition.
30
Define weathering.
The breakdown of rocks (mechanical, biological, or chemical) over time, leading to the transfer of material into the littoral zone. ## Footnote This process is crucial for the input of sediment into coastal systems.
31
What is positive feedback in the context of weathering?
When the rate of removal of weathered rock exceeds the rate of weathering, increasing the exposed rock area and promoting further weathering. ## Footnote This can lead to increased erosion due to more available material.
32
What is the littoral zone?
The area where sediment is inputted into sediment cells ## Footnote It is the zone that extends from the high tide line to the low tide line.
33
What promotes further weathering in positive feedback?
Higher removal rate of weathered rock than weathering rate ## Footnote This increases the area of exposed rock, leading to more erosion.
34
What happens in negative feedback regarding weathered rock?
Slower removal rate leads to buildup of debris, reducing weathering and erosion ## Footnote This protects the cliff foot from erosive forces.
35
Define Mechanical (Physical) Weathering.
The breakdown of rocks due to physical forces without chemical changes ## Footnote Examples include freeze-thaw and salt crystallization.
36
What is Freeze-thaw weathering?
Water enters cracks in rocks, freezes, expands, and causes cracks to develop ## Footnote This leads to weakening of the cliff over time.
37
What occurs during Salt Crystallisation?
Salt crystals grow from evaporated seawater, exerting pressure on rocks ## Footnote Salt can also corrode ferrous materials in rocks.
38
Explain Wetting and Drying in weathering.
Rocks expand when wet and contract when dry, causing breakage ## Footnote This is common in clay rocks along coastlines.
39
What is Chemical Weathering?
The breakdown of rocks through chemical reactions ## Footnote Includes processes like carbonation and oxidation.
40
Define Carbonation in chemical weathering.
Rainwater absorbs CO2, forming weak carbonic acid that dissolves calcium carbonate ## Footnote Acid rain can also react with limestone.
41
What is Oxidation in the context of weathering?
Exposed minerals react with air, increasing volume and causing crumbling ## Footnote Commonly affects iron minerals, turning them rusty.
42
What is the process of Solution in weathering?
Dissolution of rock minerals like rock salt ## Footnote It leads to the weakening of rock structures.
43
What is Biological Weathering?
The breakdown of rocks by organic activity ## Footnote Examples include plant roots, birds, and seaweed acids.
44
What is Soil Creep?
The slow movement of soil particles downhill due to wetting and freezing ## Footnote It leads to the formation of shallow terracettes.
45
What is Solifluction?
Flow of thawed surface layers over frozen ground in tundra areas ## Footnote Results in the formation of solifluction lobes.
46
What causes Mudflows?
Increased water content in soil reduces friction, leading to flows over bedrock ## Footnote Pore water pressure is a key factor in slope stability.
47
What triggers Rockfall?
Mechanical weathering on steep cliffs, often due to earthquakes ## Footnote It leads to scree accumulation at the cliff base.
48
What is a Landslide?
Rapid movement of intact rock down a slope due to reduced friction from water ## Footnote Often dangerous and occurs along flat slopes.
49
Define Landslip or Slump.
Curved slope movement due to pore water pressure buildup in weak materials ## Footnote This can create a scarred appearance in the cliff.
50
What is the role of Runoff in coastal systems?
Water erodes cliffs and transports sediment to the littoral zone ## Footnote It can also increase pollution in coastal areas.
51
How do temperature and climate affect weathering?
Colder climates favor mechanical weathering, while warmer climates favor chemical weathering ## Footnote This influences the rate and type of weathering processes.
52
What sequence creates Caves, Arches, Stacks & Stumps?
Erosion of faults, collapse of rock, and widening of caves lead to these formations ## Footnote Hydraulic action and abrasion are key processes.
53
What characterizes Steep Cliffs?
Formation from strong, erosion-resistant rock and high-energy environments ## Footnote Sedimentary rocks with vertical strata are common.
54
What defines Gentle Cliffs?
Common in weaker rocks, low-energy waves, and prone to slumping ## Footnote Often associated with a large beach reducing erosion rates.
55
What factors influence the Rate of Retreat of cliffs?
Marine factors (fetch, wave energy) and terrestrial factors (weathering, geology) ## Footnote Unconsolidated rocks and sands retreat faster.
56
What is a Wave-cut Notch?
Erosion concentrated at the high-tide line creating a notch in the cliff ## Footnote Leads to the formation of a wave-cut platform over time.
57
What is a Beach?
A depositional landform created by sediment deposition from waves losing energy ## Footnote It stretches from the low tide to the high tide line.
58
What occurs during Beach Accretion?
The beach is built up by constructive waves during summer months ## Footnote Opposite to beach excavation in winter.
59
Define Swash-aligned beaches.
Wave crests approach perpendicular to the coast, limiting longshore drift ## Footnote Sediment does not travel far along the beach.
60
What are Spits?
Long narrow strips of land formed by longshore drift extending out to sea ## Footnote They can create sheltered environments for salt marshes.
61
What characterizes Barrier Beaches?
A beach or spit that extends across a bay, trapping water behind it ## Footnote This leads to the formation of brackish water areas.
62
What is a compound spit?
A spit with multiple recurved tips.
63
What is a double spit?
Occurs when spits from opposite sides of a bay reach towards each other.
64
What forms when a barrier beach becomes separated from the mainland?
A barrier island.
65
What is a barrier beach?
A beach or spit that extends across a bay to join two headlands, trapping water behind it.
66
How are tombolos formed?
By wave refraction off a coastal island reducing wave velocity, leading to sediment deposition.
67
What characterizes offshore bars?
An offshore region where sand is deposited as waves lack energy to carry sediment to shore.
68
What is vegetation succession?
A plant community that changes over time.
69
What are embryo dunes?
Initial sand formations colonized by pioneer plants.
70
List the stages of salt marsh succession.
* Algal Stage * Pioneer Stage * Establishment Stage * Stabilisation * Climax vegetation
71
What role does vegetation play in coastal stabilization?
Helps bind soil, reduces erosion, and provides a protective layer.
72
What conditions are necessary for sand dune formation?
Large quantities of sand and a large tidal range.
73
What are the stages of dune succession?
* Embryo Dunes * Yellow Dunes * Grey Dunes * Dune Slack * Heath and Woodland
74
What leads to the formation of estuarine mudflats?
Deposition occurs when river flow meets incoming tides, causing sediment to settle.
75
Define isostatic change.
Localised change when land rises or falls relative to the sea.
76
What is eustatic change?
Global change affecting sea level, often due to thermal expansion or glacial processes.
77
What are rias?
Flooded narrow winding inlets and river valleys formed by rising sea levels.
78
What are fjords?
Natural inlets formed when rising sea levels flood deep glacial valleys.
79
What is the predicted range of sea level rise by 2100 according to the IPCC?
0.3 - 1.0 m.
80
What is coastalisation?
The process of developing the coast and increasing population density in coastal areas.
81
What is a storm surge?
A rise in sea level due to low pressure from large weather events.
82
What impact does global warming have on storm surges?
It is predicted to increase the frequency and intensity of storms.
83
What is the consequence of reduced house and land prices in coastal areas?
Economic loss for homeowners and local coastal economies.
84
Fill in the blank: A barrier beach traps water behind it, leading to the formation of a ______.
[brackish lagoon]
85
True or False: Mangrove forests provide protection against extreme weather events.
True
86
What is the climatic climax in vegetation succession?
When trees begin to colonize the area.
87
What happens to sediment during flocculation in estuarine environments?
Sediment becomes trapped and builds up.
88
What is predicted to increase as the surface of oceans gets warmer?
The frequency and intensity of storms, severity of storm surges and flooding. ## Footnote There is no agreed scientific consensus on these predictions.
89
How may coastal flooding affect house and land prices?
Significantly reduced prices due to known risks, leading to economic loss for homeowners and local economies.
90
What is the impact of storm surges on the environment?
They destroy plant successions and damage coastal landforms.
91
What happened to the spit 'Spurn Head' in 2013?
It was partially destroyed by a large storm surge.
92
How many people globally live in areas at risk from coastal flooding?
More than 1 billion people.
93
What percentage of the world’s large cities are coastal?
Around 75%.
94
What is one consequence of increasing storm surges and erosion?
An increase in the volume of environmental refugees.
95
What is the goal of coastal management approaches?
To manage the coastline and mitigate the impacts of erosion and flooding.
96
What are the two main types of coastal management strategies?
Hard engineering and soft engineering.
97
Define hard engineering in coastal management.
Traditional approaches involving man-made structures to prevent erosion.
98
What is a disadvantage of hard engineering?
High cost and significant environmental impact.
99
What is an offshore breakwater?
A rock barrier that forces waves to break before reaching the shore.
100
What is the purpose of groynes?
To trap sediment from longshore drift and build up the beach.
101
What are sea walls designed to do?
Absorb and reflect wave energy to prevent erosion.
102
What is rip rap?
Large rocks that reduce wave energy but allow water to flow through.
103
What does soft engineering aim to do?
Work with and complement the physical environment using natural methods.
104
Fill in the blank: Beach nourishment involves taking sediment from _______ sources.
offshore.
105
What is cliff regrading?
Reducing the angle of the cliff to help stabilize it.
106
What is dune stabilization?
Planting marram grass to bind dunes and protect the land behind.
107
What does the Cost-Benefit Analysis (CBA) assess?
The expected costs versus expected benefits of coastal management plans.
108
What is integrated coastal zone management (ICZM)?
A method of managing large sections of coastline with one integrated strategy.
109
What does the Shoreline Management Plan (SMP) identify?
All activities, both natural and human, within the coastline area of each sediment cell.
110
What are the four options considered by SMPs for coastline management?
* Hold the Line * Managed Realignment/Retreat * Advance the Line * No Active Intervention
111
What is a potential conflict in coastal management decisions?
There may be winners and losers among communities and stakeholders.
112
True or False: Coastal management can lead to increased erosion in areas downdrift of interventions.
True.
113
What is a consequence of installing a sea wall?
It reflects wave energy downdrift, increasing wave energy and erosion elsewhere.