last minute Flashcards
(17 cards)
Explain important of PPC system in planning and manufacture of fashion products
- computerised systems plan and control all aspects of manufacturing fashion products
- provides an electronic overview of materials sourcing, scheduling of machines and people, and co-ordinating suppliers and customers
- A PPC system allows flexibility for changes in consumer demands and the supply chain, as they may arise.
Availability of materials:
- a PPC system can be used to co-ordinate delivery dates for all materials for production to start.
- JIT systems allow for materials and components to be delivered as they are needed
- PPC keeps track of deliveries so materials can seamlessly go on the production line without the
need for storage. - PPC can automatically re-order materials when stock levels
become low.
Scheduling of machines and people:
- PPC is able to create a production plan, outlining timings and sequences for garment making.
- PPC schedules skilled operators and specialist machinery as required.
- Product manufacture involves careful planning so that enough people are available when needed.
- PPC can change number of operators needed depending on demand.
Coordinating suppliers and customers:
- PPC allows the facility to track progress through the supply chain, and allocate orders to the appropriate factory or supplier when new materials are needed.
- All parties involved can see the progress of orders throughout manufacturing through to delivery.
- The progress of a particular order can be tracked with GPS for timing and delivery information.
- PPC keeps track of deliveries to retailers to meet consumer demand.
Give main points for inclusive design
- adaptive clothing - mobility issues, braile stitching, easy fastenings and stretch fabric
- patients in hospital need clothing allowing for medical tubes, personal dressing or comfort
- childrens wear - BSC standards include no zips on trousers or long hoodie draw strings on hoodies for children under 7 years old, easy fastenings
- neutral colours and prints for boys and girls
- more size range outside of mainstream fashion, realistic models
What are trade fairs and why are they important?
- events where designers can network with others and find suppliers
important
- allow designers to source new suppliers of materials
- allow networking with business contacts
- allow inspiration and exploring new trends
explain how fibres and fabrics contribute to the lustrous qualities of special occasion wear
Fibres
- naturally lustrous, such as silk and linen.
- The triangular shape of silk fibres allow light to be reflected from the
surface, whereas linen becomes shinier over time and wear, to
create a soft lustre.
- Synthetic filament fibres such as polyamide and polyester have smooth surfaces, enabling light to be reflected.
- Metallic fibres such as silver and lurex create sparkle and iridescent
effects.
- New generation Lyocells and Bamboo fibres offer naturally
shiny qualities to special occasion wear.
- Students may refer to
smooth yarns/embroidery threads.
Fabrics
- can be constructed to give lustrous qualities.
- Satin woven fabrics have a smooth face, with floating yarns that give a shiny effect.
- Velvet fabric can reflect light in different directions, especially velour or crushed velvet.
- Brocade, a woven fabric that
looks like embroidery, is often made with floating and metallised
yarns creating a shimmering illusion. - Metallised fabrics such as
Lame are coated with a glossy finish to give the appearance of
lustre.
- Taffeta fabric creates a two-tone effect for special occasion
wear.
Analyse and evaluate use of natural and synthetic fibres in textiles, how does sourcing, care and disposal affect sustainability?
Sourcing
- natural fibres use fertilisers and pesticides which pollutes land and atmosphere.
- Synthetic fibres made from petrochemicals, which come from non-renewable sources.
- However, organic fibres are grown without chemicals
- New generation fibres, eg Tencel, are sourced from sustainably managed forests and chemicals reused in a closed loop cycle.
- Ingeo, new replacement for synthetic fibres, from plant starches and completely bio-degradable.
Care
- All products use water, detergents and energy in their care.
- Natural fibres generally absorbent so take more drying time and energy in their care, unlike synthetics.
- detergents pollute water systems and use energy in tumble drying - damages environment
- Dry cleaning for wool and silk uses chemicals to remove stains
- However, synthetic fibres crease less and dry quicker than garments made from natural fibres, and need lower temperatures in washing and drying; they are also thermoplastic and can distort in high temperatures.
- Many products now washed at 30o, new technology allows for more energy efficient machines.
Disposal
- In an era of fast fashion, many products are disposed of unecesarily
-Natural fibres such as wool and cotton, biodegrade more quickly than synthetic fibres, which remain in landfill, giving off polluting gases.
- The dyes and chemicals used in fibre production means that it takes longer for the product to decompose.
- textiles can be reused, passed on or upcycled to extend the product life.
- Many fibres recycled and shredded to create new yarns and fabrics, eg denim and plastic fleece.
- Wool fibres can be recycled ie shoddy.
- Consumers could buy less, longer wear
Warp vs weft
warp
- less stretchy
- hardwearing
- variations
- lack of give
weft
- good stretch
- good drape
- less creasing
- thermally insulating but loose holes also let air flow through
Importance of computer controlled systems
Reduce waste
- CAD saves time and physical resources, eg paper and fabrics.
- Designs can be adapted electronically without starting from
scratch; decisions can be made without the need for
physical product development.
- PDS produces lay plans, automatically placing pattern templates with minimum fabric waste.
- CAD systems allow interaction between designer and
manufacturer for global communication.
Benefit production
- Computer numerically controlled (CNC) machines can enable
parts to be cut and stitched through CAM, eg buttonholes and
dart making, ensuring precise stitching.
- Digital printing requires little physical preparation, printing directly to fabric, saving time.
- CAM embroidery machines can create complex logos and
designs quickly, saving production time.
- Lay plans are sent straight to computer controlled cutting
machines, to cut without the need for templates.
Benefit distribution & storage
- Electronic data interchange (EDI) allows documents such as
orders and invoices to be exchanged electronically for quick
communication.
- Electronic point of sale (EPOS) uses barcode technology to
record sales, ordering is completed automatically in relation to the retail sales of products.
- Planning product control (PPC) systems allow for all aspects of production and delivery to be planned online and accessed by all parties to allow up to date information on distribution and delivery.
- Just in time (JIT) systems allow electronic stock control; materials are ordered when needed, are not stored in warehouses, but go directly to the production line.
formula for percentage profit
Percentage profit =
Amount of profit DIVIDED BY Manufacturing cost × 100
Why use Bondawed for applique work?
- fuses 2 pieces of fabric together
- to stabilise fabric
difference between slub and boucle yarns
Slub
- Thick and thin sections appear at irregular intervals along the yarn, which is made by altering the tension/spinning.
- The effect is held together with a binder yarn.
- This gives fabric a bumpy or irregular textured appearance.
- Fabric made from slub yarns give a similar appearance to some linen or wild silk fabric.
Bouclé
- Has loops/looped projections along the yarn.
- The effect yarn creates the loops, while the binder yarn holds the effect in place.
- The fabric has a curly or looped surface texture.
- Fabric made with boucle yarns have an irregular wavy or crimped appearance.
Interfacing, underlining and interlining
- Interfacing is a separate fabric attached to the outer fabric, either
by stitching or ironing on. - It is often used in small areas of a
product, and can be woven, non-woven or knitted; - It is designed to strengthen, support or stabilise a fabric.
- Underlining is a separate layer of fabric, cut the same size, and
used alongside, the outer fabric. - It can be used to make transparent fabrics more opaque; to support open structured fabrics; to stabilise seams.
- Underlining can also provide a colour contrast to open structured fabrics.
- Interlining is a layer of fabric placed in between the outer and lining
fabric, designed to create a thermally insulating product. - Polyester wadding, wool/polyester fleece or brushed cotton fabrics can
What is role of BSI in ensuring products are safe for consumers?
- Care labelling. The care label informs the consumer of fibre
content, in case of allergies. - Nightwear must carry a label which reads ‘KEEP AWAY FROM
FIRE’ or ‘LOW FLAMMABILITY TO BS 5722’ to protect the
consumer from naked flames. - This relates to adults and
children’s nightwear under the age of thirteen, which must meet
flammability performance requirements and British Standards. - Setting guidance for flammability testing for home furnishings and
textiles in public spaces. Home furnishings such as sofas, should
carry a label indicating that the fabric and filling meets the fire
resistance guidelines as set out by the BSI; preventing or
controlling ignition of fabric if exposed to a flame. - Testing samples of products and awarding certification to ensure
products meet British or European standards. This assures the
consumer that an acceptable quality can be expected eg a
waterproof coat should reasonably protect the consumer from wet
conditions. - The design and manufacture of children’s clothing must not
include cords on hoods in case of accidental strangulation; and
no ribbons or cords attached to clothing in case of a choking
hazard. - Zips on boys’ trousers under the age of five, must not be used.
What is sub-assembly?
where a component is made separately in a different location by a small group of skilled workers and added to the garment after.
- can help speed up process of garment and JIT relies on this
satin fabric structure
- weft floats over 4 warp yarns then under 1
- structure is satin weave
- has few interlacing points
offshore strengths and weaknesses
GOOD
- to find best manufacturers in different countries
* lower cost
* Digital applications can be used to communicate the designing
and manufacturing process.
- Offshore manufacturing contributes to the economy of LEDC
countries which mainly manufacture export items.
BAD
- exploitation of workers
* high transport and packing
* delays as chain of designers and retailers is likely to break down at some point
* less quality - compromised for amount
circumference of circle formula
2 pie r
