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Moisturizers & Dry Skin Flashcards

(60 cards)

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1
Q

Hemidesmosomes are located

A

between basal layer keratinocytes and basal lamina

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2
Q

Langerhans cells are located

A

Spinosum layer

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3
Q

Characteristics of keratinocytes in stratum basale

A

Stem cell niche
Desmosomes
K5 and K14 expressed

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4
Q

Characteristics of keratinocytes in stratum spinosum

A

Profilaggrin
Desmosomes
Keratin intermediate filaments

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5
Q

Characteristics of keratinocytes in stratum granulosum

A

Filaggrin (active)
Crosslinked keratin fibers
Lamellar bodies secrete lipid precursors

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6
Q

lipids in stratum corneum

A

Cholesterol ester
omega-hydroxyceramide
Sphingosine

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7
Q

Lipids in stratum basale and spinosum

A
  • Cholesterol
  • fatty acids
  • triacylglycerides
  • phospholipid
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8
Q

lipids in stratum granulosum

A
  • cholesterol sulfate
  • Ceramide, glucosylceramide, acylglucosylceramide
  • Sphingomyelin
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9
Q

External factors causing dry skin

A
  • Low relative humidity
  • Wind currents–> evaporation
  • Solvents/detergents stripping lipids
  • Inflammation from UVR
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10
Q

Intrinsic factors causing dry skin

A
  • Impaired SC function
  • Reduced sebum production
  • Dietary deficiency of essential fatty acids
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11
Q

Examples of impaired SC function

A
  • Increased TEWL
  • Abnormal keratinization/desquamation
  • Reduced levels of NMF
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12
Q

Top 5 causes of dry skin

A
  • Lifestyle
  • Over-cleansing
  • Sun exposure
  • Extreme climactic conditions
  • Aging
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13
Q

Vehicle types for moisturizers

A
  • o/w emulsion
  • w/o emulsion
  • lamellar gel systems
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14
Q

Key ingredients of moisturizers

A
  • Emollients
  • Humectants
  • Occlusive agents
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15
Q

Mechanism of emollients

A
  • partial occlusion/lubrication
  • affect skin FEEL
  • “smoothing”
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16
Q

Mechanism of occlusive agents

A

forms a film on the surface of the skin to retard evaporation of water

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17
Q

Mechanism of humectants

A

binds water from the environment and retain water in equilibrium with the skin

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18
Q

Moisturizers that enhance skin barrier work by

A

mimicking the SC bilayer structure and assure long-lasting moisturization

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19
Q

Emollients provide _______, ________, and improve __________ while moisturizers provide _______ and improve ________

A

lubrication, skin smoothing, skin FEEL

water retention, barrier function

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20
Q

Categories of emollients

A
  • silicones
  • hydrocarbons
  • esters
  • ethers
  • triglycerides
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21
Q

Occlusive moisturizers

A
  • petrolatum
  • dimethicone
  • mineral oil
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22
Q

Humectant moisturizers

A
  • Sodium lactate
  • Glycols
  • Sorbitol
  • Sodium PCA
  • Sodium hyaluronate
  • polyglutamic acid
  • hydrolyzed starch
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23
Q

Emollient moisturizers (specific)

A
  • lanolin

- Capric caprylic triglyceride

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24
Q

Ester emollients

A
  • Alkyl Benzoate
  • Isopropyl Palmitate
  • Octyl Palmitate
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25
Hydrocarbon emollients
- Squalane | - Mineral oil
26
Ether emollient
PPG (polypropylene glycol)
27
High viscosity emollients
- Castoryl maleate | - Diisosteryl dimerate
28
Low viscosity emollients
- Dicaprylyl ether - Cyclopentasiloxane - Isopropyl myristate
29
emollients with medium spreading and fatting
- caprylic triglycerides - squalane - isocetyl stearate
30
emollients with low spreading and high fatting
- isocetyl stearoyl stearate | - oleyl oleate
31
Fixed oils are
liquid triglycerides
32
Butters and fats are
semi-solid triglycerides
33
Waxes are _________, primarily _______
solid lipids | fatty acid esters
34
Primary components of oils and fats in nature are
Saponifiable triglycerides Unsaponifiables Acetone insolubles
35
Unsaponifiable components of oils and fats include
Hydrocarbons Tocopherols Sterols
36
Titer point number line for oils butters and fats
Oils
37
Iodine value provides a measure of
Unsaturation (double bonds)
38
PUFA have ____ iodine value
high
39
Acid value provides a measure of
free fatty acids
40
Saponification value provides a measure of
triglyceride esters
41
Peroxide value provides a measure of
degree of oxidation of a particular oil sample
42
When formulating with vegetable oils, each oil has a specific _________
required HLB value for the nonionic emulsifier
43
Characteristics of lanolin
Self-emulsifying W/O base "wool wax" alcohol + sterol esters absorbs/retains high levels of water
44
CCT is a naturally derived emollient through
transesterification
45
Squalane is a naturally derived emollient through
hydrogenation
46
Jojoba wax is derived through
transesterification and hydrogenation
47
Myristyl myristate is derived through
esterification
48
Esters are formed by reactions between
fatty acid + fatty alcohol
49
Linear esters ___________________, while branched esters ________________
Linear: enhance slip, feel heavy Branched: dry initial feel, spread easily
50
High-spreading esters with dry after feel
- Diisopropyl Adipate - Hexyl Laurate - Isopropyl (Myristate/Palmitate/Isostearate)
51
To reduce the tackiness of heavier ingredients such as petrolatum and castor oil, one could add
high spreading esters with dry after feel such as diisopropyl adipate, hexyl laurate, isopropyl myristate
52
High-spreading esters with velvety after feel
Branched | (Tridecyl/Isostearyl/Isodecyl) Neopantonoate
53
Medium-spreading esters with medium after feel
Isocetyl stearate | Cetearyl Isononanoate
54
Ingredient that can improve intermediate tackiness, may be used to replace mineral oil for a smoother after feel
medium-spreading esters like isocetyl stearate and cetearyl isononanoate
55
Low-spreading esters with rich after-feel
Highly branched Isocetyl Stearoyl Stearate Octyldodecyl Stearoyl Stearate
56
Benefits of silicone fluids
- Very resistant to high temp - Very resistant to oxidation - Easily spreadable (Breathable films) - Good detackifiers
57
MW range of volatile silicone fluids
300-600
58
Types of hydrophilic emollients
- PEGs/PEG esters - Silicone copolyols - ethoxylated alcohols/natural oils
59
Cutometer, Twistometer, and Ballistometer measure
skin elasticity resiliency
60
Laser Doppler blood flow measures
Erythema and vasodilation

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