Oceanography Flashcards
(196 cards)
1
Q
atoll
A
an island consisting of a circular coral reef surrounding a lagoon
2
Q
barrier reef
A
A reef separated from the shoreline by the deeper water of a lagoon.
3
Q
continental arc
A
mountains formed in part by volcanic activity caused by the subduction of oceanic lithosphere beneath a continent
4
Q
continental drift
A
the hypothesis that the continents slowly move across Earth’s surface
5
Q
continental transform fault
A
fault that cuts across a continent
6
Q
convection cell
A
A circular pattern of air rising, air sinking, and wind.
7
Q
convergent boundary
A
a plate boundary where two plates move toward each other
8
Q
coral reef
A
diverse and productive environment named for the coral animals that make up its primary structure
9
Q
divergent boundary
A
a plate boundary where two plates move away from each other
10
Q
east pacific rise
A
oceanic rise between pacific and nazca plate. broad, low, gentle swelling of the sea floor with a small, indistinct central rift valley
11
Q
fringing reef
A
A reef attached to the shore of a continent or island.
12
Q
great barrier reef
A
largest coral reef in the world Austrailia
13
Q
guyot
A
Flat-topped seamount (volcano)
14
Q
hawaiian islands - emperor seamount chain
A
Island chains in the northern Pacific Ocean.
15
Q
Harry Hess
A
developed the theory sea-floor spreading- ocean floors move like conveyor belts, carrying the continents along with them
16
Q
hot spot
A
a concentration of heat in the mantle capable of producing magma, which rises to Earth’s surface; The Pacific Plate moves over a hot spot, producing the Hawaiian Islands
17
Q
ice age
A
any period of time during which glaciers covered a large part of the earth’s surface
18
Q
island arc
A
A string of islands formed by the volcanoes along a deep ocean trench
19
Q
magnetic anomaly
A
evidence that the ocean floor is spreading apart. It shows that the earth’s magnetic field has reversed several times throughout the earth’s history
20
Q
magnetic field
A
the area of magnetic force around a magnet
21
Q
mantle plume
A
A mass of hotter-than-normal mantle material that ascends toward the surface, where it may lead to igneous activity.
22
Q
mesosauras
A
an example of a species that helped support the continental drift hypothesis
23
Q
mid-atlantic ridge
A
a long, continuous underwater mountain range, formed by volcanic outpourings from the asthenosphere, that lies roughly parallel to continental margins; the center is marked by a steep V
24
Q
mid-ocean ridge
A
an underwater mountain chain where new ocean floor is formed
25
ocean trench
deep valley in the ocean floor that forms along a subduction zone
26
ocean ridge
A massive mountain range laying at the bottom of the sea. such as mid-atlantic
27
ocean rise
fast- spreading, gentle slopes
28
oceanic transform fault
A fault with side-to-side motion that offsets segments of a mid-ocean ridge. This kind of transform fault occurs wholly on the ocean floor.
29
paleomagnetism
The study of the alignment of magnetic minerals in rock,specifically as it relates to the reversal of Earth's magnetic poles; also the magnetic properties that rock requires during formation
30
Pangaea
large, ancient landmass that was composed of all the continents joined together
31
polar wandering curve
magnetic pole was wandering or moving through time
32
polarity
the directional orientation of the magnetic field
33
rift valley
a deep valley that forms where two plates move apart.
34
rifting
The process of a landmass splitting apart
35
san andreas fault
a major geological fault in California
36
sea floor spreading
when two oceanic plates pull apart, magma rises and new crust is formed harry hess
37
seamount
an underwater mountain rising above the ocean floor cone shaped
38
spreading center
The region at the crest of a mid-ocean ridge, where new crust is being formed by seafloor spreading.
39
subduction
a geological process in which one edge of a crustal plate is forced sideways and downward into the mantle below another plate
40
subduction zone
the region where oceanic plates sink down into the asthenosphere
41
transform boundary
a plate boundary where two plates move past each other in opposite directions
42
transform fault
tectonic plates sliding past one another (ex. San Andreas fault).
43
transform faulting
movement of one plate past another-produces shallow but often strong earthquakes in the lithosphere
44
Frederick Vine
A geologist who, along with Drummond Matthews, combined the seemingly unrelated pattern of magnetic sea floor stripes with the process of sea floor spreading to explain the pattern of alternating and symmetric magnetic stripes on the sea floor.
45
volcanic arc
a chain of volcanic islands generally located a few hundred kilometers from a trench where there is active subduction of one oceanic plate beneath another
46
Alfred Wegner
scientist who came up with the continental drift theory
47
abyssal hill
A hill on the slope of a mid-ocean ridge about 100m high and lineated parallel to the ridge crest, formed by faulting of the basaltic oceanic crust as it moves out of the rift valley
48
abyssal plain
a large, flat, almost level area of the deep-ocean basin
49
active margin
located in areas where oceanic lithosphere is being subducted beneath the leading edge of the continent
50
bathymetry
measuring the depths of the oceans
51
black smoker
temps above 350 and emits water that is black containing metal sulfides
52
continental arc
Mountains formed in part by volcanic activity caused by the subduction of oceanic lithosphere beneath a continent. (Andes Mountains)
53
continental margin
The shallow sea floor that is located between the shoreline and the deep-ocean bottom
54
continental rise
transitional sloping surface at the base of the continental slope
55
continental shelf
The part of a continent that extends underwater, generally flat zone before the slope
56
continental slope
a steep incline of the ocean floor leading down from the edge of the continental shelf
57
convergent active margin
An active margin associated with oceanic-continental convergent plate boundaries.
58
deep-ocean basin
the part of the ocean floor that is under deep water beyond the continent margin and that is composed of oceanic crust and a thin layer of sediment
59
deep-sea fan
A cone-shaped deposit at the base of the continental slope. The sediment is transported to the fan by turbidity currents that follow submarine canyons., a cone-shaped deposit at the base of the continental slope. the sediment is transported to the fan by turbidity currents that follow submarine canyons
60
fathom
standard unit of ocean depth
61
fracture zone
similar to transform faults
62
graded bedding
sediments of different sizes and shapes settle to different levels
63
hypothermal vent
underwater openings from which hot, mineral-rich water flowed, where metabolic reactions began, minerals were deposited forming rocks with tiny chambers, the iron sulfide would donate hydrogen and electrons to dissolved CO2, forming organic molecules
64
island arc
A string of islands formed by the volcanoes along a deep-ocean trench. Islands of Japan
65
ocean trench
deep valley in the ocean floor that forms along a subduction zone
66
ocean rise
slopes that are gentler/less rugged
67
pacific ring of fire
occurs along the margins of the Pacific Ocean
68
passive margin
Embedded within the interior of the lithospheric plate
69
pillow basalt
smooth rounded lobes of rocks which resemble pillows
70
pillow lava
smooth rounded lobes of rocks which resemble pillows
71
precipitate
disolved metal particles mixed with cold seawater
72
shelf break
the outer edge of the continental shelf
73
submarine canyon
A deep, V-shaped valley running roughly perpendicular to the shoreline and cutting across the edge of the continental shelf and slope.
74
submarine fan
deposits at the bottom of the submarine canyons
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transform active margin
associated with transform plate boundaries-create linear islands, banks, and deep basins close to shore (San Andreas Fault)
76
turbidite deposit
stacks of graded bedding of which continental rise is composed
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turbidity current
Underwater "Avalanche" of abrasive sediments thought responsible for the deep sculpturing of submarine canyons and as a means for sediments accumulating on an abyssal plain
78
warm water vent
Have water temperatures below 30C and generally emit water that is clear in color.
79
white smoker
temps from 30-350C; precipitate barium sulfide
80
acid
compound that releases hydrogen ions when disolved in water
81
alkaline
a substance that releases hydroxide ions (OH) in a solution. Also called basic.
82
atom
basic building blocks of all matter
83
boiling point
the temperature at which a substance changes from a liquid to a gas
84
brackish
low salinity water caused by the mixing of freshwater and saltwater
85
calorie
unit of heat defined as the quantity of heat required to raise the temperature of 1 gram of water by 1 degree centigrade at atmospheric pressure
86
chlorinity
the amount of chloride ion and ions of other halogens in ocean water expressed in parts per thousand by weight
87
cohesion
the intermolecular attraction by which the elements of a body are held together
88
condensation point
the temperature at which a gas becomes a liquid.
89
condense
undergo condensation
90
covalent bond
a chemical bond that involves sharing a pair of electrons between atoms in a molecule (H2O)
91
deep water
The water beneath the permanent thermocline (and resulting pycnocline) that has a uniformly low temperature.
92
dipolar
Having two poles. The water molecule possesses a polarity of electrical charge with one pole being more positive and the other more negative in electrical charge.
93
electron
negatively charged particle; located outside the atomic nucleus
94
evaporation
the process by which a liquid changes into a vapor
95
freezing point
The temperature at which a liquid changes into a solid
96
halocline
a layer of water in which a high rate of change in salinity in the vertical dimension is present
97
heat
energy moving froma a high temperature system to a low temperature system
98
heat capacity
The amount of heat required to raise the temperature of a specified amount of a substance by 1°C or 1 K.
99
hydrogen bond
an intermolecular bond that forms within water because of the dipolar nature of water molecules
100
hydrologic cycle
the cycle of water exchange among the atmosphere, land and ocean through the processes of evaporation, precipitation, runoff and subsurface percolation. Also called the water cycle
101
hypersaline
waters that are highly or excessively saline
102
ion
atom that has a positive or negative charge
103
ionic bond
a chemical bond formed as a result of the electrical attraction
104
latent heat of condensation
the heat energy that must be removed from one gram of substance to convert it from a vapor at a given temperature below its boiling point. For water its 585 calories at 20 degrees C
105
latent heat of freezing
the heat energy that must be removed from one gram of substance at its melting point to convert it to a solid. For water it is 80 calories
106
latent heat of melting
the heat energy that must be added to one gram of a substance at its melting point to be converted into a liquid. For water it is 80 calories
107
latent heat of evaporation
the heat energy that is added to one gram of a liquid substance to convert it to a vapor at a given temp below its boiling point.
108
latent heat of vaporization
the heat energy that must be added to one gram of a substance at its boiling point to convert it to a vapor.
109
melting point
the temperature below which a liquid turns into a solid
110
mixed surface layer
the surface layer of the ocean water mixed by wave and tide motions to produce relatively isothermal and isohaline conditions
111
molecule
Two or more atoms held together by covalent bonds
112
neutral
a state in which there is no excess of either the hydrogen or hydroxide ion
113
neutron
an electrically neutral particle found in the nucleus of an atom
114
nucleus
composed of protons and neutrons
115
parts per thousand
how salinity is measured, is abbriviated PPT
116
polarity
having an indicated pole (as the distinction between positive and negative electric charges)
117
principle of constant proportions
Proportions of major conservative elements in seawater remain nearly constant, though salinity may change w/ location
118
proton
a subatomic particle that has a positive charge and that is found in the nucleus of an atom
119
pycnocline
a layer of water in which there is a rapid change of density with depth
120
residence time
The average time a given particle will stay in a given system
121
reverse osmosis
A desalinization process that involves forcing salt-water through a membrane permeable to water but not to salt
122
runoff
water that runs into the ocean causing the salinity to decrease
123
salinity
the relative proportion of salt in a solution
124
salinometer
An electronic device that determines salinity by measuring the electrical conductivity of a seawater sample.
125
specific heat
the amount of heat required to raise the temperature of 1g of a substance 1 degree Celsius
126
surface tension
the tendency for the surface of a liquid to contract owing to intermolecular bond attraction
127
temperature
the degree of hotness or coldness of a body or environment (corresponding to its molecular activity)
128
thermocline
a layer of water in which there is a rapid change in temperature with depth.
129
vapor
Describes the gaseous state of a substance that is generally a liquid or solid at room temperature
130
subtropical gyre
a large, circular-moving loop of water that is centered at about 30 degrees latitude and is initiated by the trade winds and the prevailing westerlies
131
western boundary currents
poleward-flowing warm currents on the western side of all subtropical gyres
132
Ekman Spiral
theoretical consideration of the effect of a steady wind blowing over an ocean of unlimited depth and breadth and of uniform viscosity; result is a surface flow of 45 degrees to the right of the wind in the Northern Hemisphere
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Ekman Transport
the net transport of surface water set in motion by wind; it is theoretically in a direction of 90 degrees to the right and 90 degrees to the left of the wind direction in the Northern and Southern Hemisphere
134
western intensification
pertaining to the intensification of warm western boundary currents of each subtropical gyre that are faster, narrower, and deeper than their corresponding eastern boundary currents
135
upwelling
process by which deep, cold, nutrient-laden water is brought to the surface, usually by diverging equatorial currents or coastal currents that pull water away from a coast
136
downwelling
in the open or coastal ocean, where Ekman transport causes surface water to converge or impinge on the coast, surface water that moves down beneath the surface
137
coastal upwelling
movement of deeper nutrient-rich water into the surface water mass as a result of windblown surface water moving offshore
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coastal downwelling
wind blows water toward coastline, surface water forced downward, gases and nutrients go to deeper waters
139
Gulf Stream
the high-intensity western boundary current of the North Atlantic Subtropical Gyre that flows north off the East Coast of the U.S.
140
Sargasso Sea
a region of convergence in the North Atlantic lying south and east of Bermuda where the water is very clear, deep blue color, and contains large quantities of floating Sargassum
141
California Current
the cold eastern boundary current of the North Pacific Subtropical Gyre
142
El Niño
a southerly flowing warm current that generally develops off the coast of Ecuador around Christmas time
143
La Niña
an occurrence in the Pacific in which trade winds increase, ocean temperatures decrease, and marine life flourishes
144
Southern Oscillation
the periodic change in the pressure differential between the Southeastern Pacific high pressure and the Western Pacific equatorial low pressure that occurs in concert with El Nino-Southern Oscillation events
145
thermohaline circulation
the vertical movement of ocean water driven by density differences resulting from the combined effects of variations in temperature and salinity; produces deep currents
146
Antarctic Bottom Water
a water mass that forms in the Weddell Sea, sinks to the ocean floor, and spreads across the bottom of all oceans
147
Antarctic Intermediate Water
Antarctic zone surface water that sinks at the Antarctic convergence and flows north at a depth of about 900 meters beneath the warmer upper-water mass of the South Atlantic Subtropical Gyre
148
west wind drift
Another name for the Antarctic Circumpolar Current or the penguin gyre
149
crest
The portion of an ocean wave that is displaced above the still-water level
150
Pacific Tsunami Warning Center
coordinates information from 25 Pacific Rim countries and is headquarted in Ewa Beach, Hawaii.
151
plunging breaker
Impressive Curling breakers that form on moderately sloping beaches. (best for surfing)
152
refraction
The process by which the part of a wave in shallow water is slowed down, causing the wave to bend and align itself nearly parallel to the shore
153
rogue wave
An unusually large wave that usually occurs unexpectedly amid other waves of smaller size. Also known as a superwave
154
spilling breaker
A type of breaking wave that forms on gently sloping beach, which gradually extracts the energy from the wave to produce a turbulent mass of air and water that runs down the front slope of the wave
155
still water level
The horizontal surface halfway between crest and trough of a wave. If there were no waves, the water surface would exist at this level. Also known as zero energy level
156
surf zone
The nearshore zone of breaking waves
157
trough
The part of an ocean wave that is displaced below the still-water line
158
tsunami
A seismic sea wave. A long-period gravity wave generated by a submarine earthquake or volcanic event. Not noticable on the open ocean but builds up to great heights in shallow water
159
wave base
The depth at which circular orbital motion becomes negligible. It exists at a depth of one-half wavelength, measured vertically from still water level.
160
wave dispersion
The separation of waves as they leave the sea area by wave size. Larger waves travel faster than smaller waves and thus leave the sea area first, to be followed by progressively smaller waves
161
wave height
(H) The vertical distance between a crest and the adjoining trough
162
wave period
(T) The elapsed time between the passage of two successive wave crests (or troughs) past a fixed point. A wave's period is the inverse of its frequency
163
wave reflection
A vertical barrier, such as seawall a rock or ledge can reflect waves back into the ocean w/ little loss of energy--a process called__________
164
wave speed
(S) The rate at which a wave travels. It can be calculated by dividing a wave's wavelength (L) by it's period (T)
165
wave steepness
Ratio of wave height (H) to wavelength (L). If a 1:7 ratio is ever exceeded by the wave, then the wave breaks.
166
wave train
A series of waves from the same direction. Informally known as a wave set
167
wavelength
(L) The horizontal distance between two corresponding points on successive waves, such as from crest to crest.
168
frequency
the number of wave crests passing a fixed location per unit of time
169
formula for frequency (f)
1 / period (T)
170
formula for wave speed (S)
wavelength (L) / period (T)
171
formula for wave base
1/2 wavelength
172
formula for wave steepness
wave (H) / wavelength (L)
173
tides
The periodic raising and lowering of sea level that occurs daily throughout the ocean.
174
gravitational force
The force that makes every object that has mass in the universe be attracted to every other object.
175
What is the equation for the force of gravity?
Fg= ((G)(m1)(m2))/r squared
176
Why is the Lunar day 50 min longer than the solar day?
During the 24 hours it takes Earth to make a full rotation, the Moon has continued moving another 12.2 degrees to the east in its orbit around the Earth. Thus, Earth must rotate an additional 50 in to "catch up" to the moon.
177
flood tide
Water moving toward the shore.
178
ebb tide
Water moving away from the shore.
179
new moon
Phase in which the Moon is between earth and the Sun, it cannot be seen at night.
180
full moon
Phase in which the Moon is on the side of Earth opposite the Sun, its entire disk is brightly visible.
181
quarter moon
Phase in which the moon tat is half lit and half dark is viewed from the Earth, occurs when the Moon is at right angles to the Sun relative to Earth.
182
tidal range
The vertical difference between high and low tides
183
spring tide
The maximum tidal range
184
neap tide
When there is destructive interference between the lunar and solar tidal bulges.
185
waxing crescent
As the moon progresses from new moon to first-quarter phase.
186
waxing gibbous
In between the Moon's full and third quarter phase.
187
waning gibbous
Between the moon's full and third quarter phase
188
waning crescent
In between the third quarter and the new moon phase
189
diurnal tidal pattern
Has one high tide and one low tide each lunar day., a tidal pattern exhibiting one high tide and one low tide during a tidal day; a daily tide
190
semidiurnal tidal pattern
Has two high tides and two low tides each lunar day.
191
mixed tidal patterns
May have characteristics of both diurnal and semidiurnal tides.
192
Bay of Fundy
The largest tidal range in the world, found in Nova Scotia, with a length of 258 kilometers.
193
flood current
Produced when water rushed into a bay (or river) with an incoming high tide.
194
ebb current
Produced when water drains out of a bay (or river) with an incoming high tide.
195
Newton's law of universal gravitation
states that every object that has mass in the universe is attracted to every other object
196
tidal bore
a wall of water that moves up certain low lying rivers due to an incoming tide
