OCS Flashcards
(155 cards)
0
Q
Where is DXAH on the color wheel
A
Levels 4/5
1
Q
Where does LXAH on the color wheel
A
In levels 7/8
2
Q
Where is the blue concentrate on the color wheel
A
Level 3
3
Q
Where is the Violet concentrate on the color wheel
A
Level 5
4
Q
What level is S on the color wheel
A
8
5
Q
What level is Red concentrate on the color wheel?
A
Level 6
6
Q
Where does the grey concentrate sit on the color wheel
A
Sits outside the color wheel
7
Q
What are the multi tonal colors
A
4mo. 6tof and 8ca
8
Q
Why are the multi-tonal colors not on the color wheel?
A
They have no major tones and so they can’t sit on the color wheel but they can be mixed freely with any other tone.
9
Q
What are the 5 concentrates
A
Gold, red, blue, Violet, silver
10
Q
What are the 2 additives that can be mixed to cool down a color
A
DXAH, LXAH
11
Q
What is ammonia’s primary function in hair color
A
To raise the ph of the hair sufficiently so as to open the cuticle and allow color to enter the cortex of the hair
12
Q
Why is it bad to raise the ph past 9
A
Because it’s physically impossible to return to its ideal ph after coloring.
13
Q
What does it mean for the hair once the cuticle is raised to a point of no return
A
The hair continues to lose protein and moisture and their will also be an increase in color fade
14
Q
True or false
As a result of the cuticle remaining open the percentage of pigment in the color needs to be as high as possible. It’s necessary since a high percentage of color will be lost when rinsing off the color
A
True
15
Q
What have ammonia free lines replaced ammonia with and what does it do
A
Ethanolamine, it has the same 3 side effects as ammonia. They haven’t managed to decrease the ph.
16
Q
What’s the key difference with organic color systems
A
The main ingredient raises the cuticle to a 9 instead of a 11/12 and it also is a conditioning agent so it softens the cuticle at the same time which gently raises the ph.
17
Q
How is ethanolamine used in organic color systems
A
as a ph adjuster to increase the ph enough so the cuticle can be raised sufficiently to allow the color to deposit in the cortex
18
Q
What ingredient in organic color systems neutralizes any residual ethanolamine and what is it derived from
A
Oleic acid it’s derived from olive oil
19
Q
What is a neutral ph
A
4.5-5.5
20
Q
What is the ph of organic color systems when mixed with activator
A
9.0
21
Q
What is the ph of naturlite
A
10.5
22
Q
What is the ph of the liquid and cream activators
A
3.0
23
Q
What are the 5 steps for success with organic color systems
A
1, cleanse and clarify, 2. developer/activator 3. Application 4. Heat 5. Emulsify
24
Without ammonia you will get less lift then you're used to. What will 20volume get you
The same level or darker and grey coverage
25
How many levels of lift will 30vol get you
1-2 levels of lift
26
How many levels will 40vol get you
2-3 levels of lift with the regular color and 3-4 with the 11 high lift series.
27
What temp should the dryer be at and why
104 degrees to slightly soften the cuticle, higher then that will cause a stronger degree of lift and cause more color fading and more damage
28
Why is it important to emulsify the color and allowing the water to run clear
The moisturizing oils that the color is suspended in must be mixed with the lathering agent contained in the color to be removed from the hair effectively with allows to seal the cuticle.
29
How long should you emulsify the color
3-5 min
30
What will happen if the cuticle is left open
The color deposit will be compromised
31
What type of activators should be used with the lighteners and why
Cream the lightener will turn into cement and be harder to apply
32
Which lightener is recommended for on scalp application and what ingredients are in it that make it more gentle
Blue lightener, hydrolysed wheat protein, bisabolol, propanedoil
33
Should you mix naturlite oil in with color to speed it up and why
No it should only be added to lightener it dilutes your color deposit
34
What are 7 tips for covering resistant grey
1) pretreat the hair twice with OCS Aqua boost or clarifying shampoo to soften the cuticle.
2) consider your method
3) use the nn series
4) adjust activator amount
5) cover hair and use 20 min under the dryer and 20 min cool
6) add warm water to hair and massage color for 5 min
7) rinse perform a wet stretch test and shampoo/condition
35
How are the NN series different from other color lines
They don't contain more pigment, they have 10% less water and more oil to soften the cuticle more.
36
At what percentage of grey should you incorporate 50% of the NN series
At least 50%
37
Which activator should you use to achieve a Demi permanent
10volume
38
How long can high lift colors process
50 min 20 under dryer and the remainder at room temp.
39
What are high lift colors recommended for
To achieve 7 levels of lift
40
How are high lift colors mixed
1:2 ratio or 1:1 using 10vol for a toner
41
What can you use as a clear gloss and how do you mix it
Naturlite oil 1:1 ratio with 5 or 10volume
42
What is the most important thing to remember when using concentrates
They have a specific level.
43
What is a good guideline when mixing concentrates
Mix 50 ml of your color to 10ml of concentrate using 1:1 ratio. Except blue. Blue mix 2-5 ml since the level is a 3 unless working with darker colors.
44
Which lightener requires the naturlite oil for on scalp application and why
Original white formula, because it doesn't have the same conditioning agents as the blue powder
45
True or false
When adding naturlite oil to a lightener it reduces the strength of the activator because it has conditioning ingredients
True
46
If you have a base root color and a highlight, you will need to put them under heat to get optimum results for the color. What developers should you use and why
Harmonics for the color retouch and blue lightener with 10volume cream. Hairmonics takes 10min under heat and 10volume won't lighten too quick. Can use naturlite to slow it down further.
47
Why is it important to shake the lightener
It will prevent settling of the heavier particles and allowing all ingredients to be thoroughly mixed.
48
Predominate tones for 4GD
Yellow/Violet
49
Predominate tones for 5GD
Yellow/red
50
Predominate tones for 6GD
Yellow/red
51
Predominate tones for 7GD
Yellow/orange
52
Predominate tones for 9GD
Yellow
53
Predominate tones for 10GD
Yellow/green
54
Predominate tones for 4AH
Green
55
Predominate tones for 5AH
Green
56
Predominate tones for 6AH
Green
57
Predominate tones for 7AH
Green/blue
58
Predominate tones for 8AH
green/blue
59
Predominate tones for 10AH
Green/Violet
60
Predominate tones for 4CR
Orange/Violet
61
Predominate tones for 5CR
Orange/red
62
Predominate tones for 6CR
Orange /red
63
Predominate tones for 7CR
Orange
64
Predominate tones for 8CR
Orange/yellow
65
Predominate tones for 4FR
Red/Violet
66
Predominate tones for 5FR
Red/Violet
67
Predominate tones for 7FR
Red/orange
68
Predominate tones for 8FR
Red/yellow
69
Predominate tones for 4MH
Violet
70
Predominate tones for 5MH
Violet/red
71
Predominate tones for 7MH
Violet/orange
72
Predominate tones for 6BC
Red
73
Predominate tones for 7BC
Red/orange
74
Predominate tones for 8BC
Red/yellow
75
Predominate tones for 5RC
Red
76
Predominate tones for 6RC
Red
77
Predominate tones for 7RC
Red/orange
78
Predominate tones for 11HN
Blue/Violet
79
Predominate tones for 11HA
Blue/green
80
Predominate tones for 11HS
Violet
81
Predominate of natural tones 1-N-10N
Blue/Violet
82
Predominate natural tones of 4NN-8NN
Blue/Violet
83
Predominate tones for 4MO
Multi-tone
84
Predominate tones for 6TOF
Multi-tone
85
Predominate tones for 8CA
Multi-tone
86
Predominate tones for LXAH
Green
87
Predominate tones for DXAH
Green
88
Level of blue concentrate
2/3
89
Level of Violet concentrate
Level 5
90
Level of red concentrate
Level 6
91
Level grey concentrate
6/7
92
Level of gold concentrate
Level 7
93
Level of silver concentrate
Level 8
94
Which lightener is faster and stronger
Original white
95
What are the 3 pigments that exist in Haircoloring
PPD, PTD and henna
96
What can you use to remove henna and how long do you leave it on
Vodka at a shampoo bowl for 20min
97
Which developers are enzyme based that work faster and you process for less time and used for grey resistant hair
Hairmonics
98
What is the max to process high lift colors under a dryer
Up to 30 min under a dryer
99
What is the percentage of certified organic ingredients in organic color systems
98-99%
100
Organic Color Systems is derived from 98-99% certified organic ingredients what are the other 2% derived from
Naturally derived from fragrance
101
What is our ethanolamine derived from
Naturally derived from coconut
102
What does it mean if an ammonia free line does not require heat to process
They are using the same percentage as ammonia to open the cuticle.
103
What is the percentage of PPD found in our color
0.4% level 1 has 1%
104
How much PPD do most lines have?
10%
105
What does it mean for a line to be PPD free?
They use a larger amount of PTD
106
What is the organic salon system
```
Analyze the hair
Treat and prepare the canvas
Change
Optimize
Style
Educate
Home care
```
107
Why is it important to perform a wet stretch test
By analyzing the elasticity it will provide you with clear indications of the hairs protein and moisture balance for optimum color results.
108
If the hair turns green or teal when you lift that means
They have cocaine in their system
109
If the hair turns orange when you lift and their underlying pigment wouldn't indicate it to have Orange that means
Hormonal imbalance or they have too much minerals and iron in their diet.
110
What are the 5 things when analyzing the hair you must consider before formulating
```
Elasticity
Hair diameter
Porosity
Workup (full chemical service and history
Condition( mineralization and coating
```
111
How do you perform a wet stretch test
1) separate about 10 strands of hair and spray with water
2) hold hair firmly between both hands
3) gently pull the hair away with moderate pressure
4) healthy hair should stretch near 30% of its length & return like an elastic band showing no signs of damage
112
What is the ph of the clarifying shampoo
8.5
113
What should you use if the client has a hot head
Aqua boost
114
Hair that doesn't stretch easily is low in what
| What would you use to prepare it for color
Low in moisture you should use Aqua boost shampoo and treatment
115
Hair that stretches but doesn't return to its previous length is weak in what?
And what should you use to prepare it
Protein, use power build shampoo and treatment
116
Hair that stretches and breaks is low in what, and what would you use to prepare
Use power build shampoo, reconstructor & revamp
117
Hair that stretches and returns is healthy what should you use to prepare m
Status quo shampoo
118
Understanding where you are and how to get to your destination is crucial, what steps must you consider to formulate
```
Natural level/starting point
Underlying tone
Remaining pigment contribution
Desired level
Desired tone
Dimension options
Proper formulation
```
119
Are the extra brights direct dyes
| How do you mix them
Not direct dyes must be mixed with an activator
120
How long do you process no limits
30-40 min
121
How long do the no limits last
6-12 shampoos
122
What are the 7 laws of color
1. Prepare your canvas
2. Process under heat for permanent results
3. Hair that doesn't stretch will not accept color
4. Without ammonia you get less lift
5. Emulsify the color at shampoo bowl
6. 95% of coverage issues are application
7. Never use conditioner before your color
123
What is the predominate tone of a level 1
Blue
124
What is the predominate tone of a level 2
Blue-Violet
125
What is the predominate tone of a level 3
Violet
126
What is the predominate tone to a level 4
Violet-red
127
What is the predominate tone to a level 5
Red
128
What is the predominate tone to a level 6
Red-orange
129
What is the predominate tone to a level 7
Orange
130
What is the predominate tone to a level 8
Orange/yellow
131
What is the predominate tone to a level 9
Yellow
132
What is the predominate tone to a level 10
Yellow/blue
133
What can you add to no limits to create a pastel shade
Aqua boost
134
What are extra brights designed to do
Complement and increase tones in colors.
135
Will extra brights work with out an activator
No
136
What is the difference between concentrates and extra brights
Concentrates have a base tone and appear on the color wheel, the extra brights contain no base color they are true pigments
137
What is the 0 activator used for
To dilute any activator
138
How would you make a 20vol or 6% using 0%
1 part 0 to 1 part 40 or 12%
139
How can you create an activator to tone or as a color wash using o%
Mixing 1 part 0 to 1 part 10 vol or 3%
140
What is 10vol 3% activator designed for
To create a Demi-permanent color result. Ideal for first time color client, or color correction
141
What is 20vol 6% designed for
Used to cover grey hair and for color on the same base or darker
142
What is 30vol or 9% designed to do
Used for lifting 1-2 shades, some coverage on grey hair and brighter results
143
How long should you process under heat for a Demi permanent result
10 min under heat and 20 min without
144
For optimum color results why is it necessary to process under heat?
Because of our gentle action of organic color systems, it's necessary to place a plastic cap over the color and place under heat, this will allow the cuticle to open and start the color development
145
What would you use to remove the build up from 2-1 shampoos and henna, how is it applied
Shampoo hair twice using clarifying shampoo. Use a sponge and work vodka through the hair leave on for 15 min, rinse shampoo with Aqua boost shampoo twice. Leave 2nd lather on for 5 min rinse and apply power build treatment
146
What ingredients are used in replacement of ammonia to gently open the cuticle
Soyamine, ethanolamine
147
What is soyamine and how is it derived
A polymer made from fatty acids of soya beans. It acts as an emulsifier and surfactant. It is alkaline and so raises the ph of the hair, softening the cuticle, opening the ph much lower than ammonia. It's naturally derived from soya bean
148
What is oleic acid used for and what is it derived from
A fatty acid that occurs naturally in some foods. It's a surfactant or cleansing agent, it neutralizes the ethanolamine, naturally derived from olive oil, as well as grape seed, sea buckthorn and sesame oil
149
A clear viscous liquid used mainly in hair color and controls the ph is called a
Ethanolamine
150
What is OCS ethanolamine derived from
Naturally from coconut
151
What is hydrolysed wheat protein used for in OCS
Natural wheat protein, it provides a combination of moisture balancing and film forming properties that give hair better body, control and a smoother feel. Gives the hair shine and has amazing conditioning effects.
152
What is ascorbic acid used for in OCS
It's a natural vitamin c it slows down the deterioration of the product caused by exposure to the air. Antioxidants play a vital role in maintaining the quality integrity and safety of cosmetic products
153
What is glyceryl cocoate used for
Naturally derived from coconut and glycerin, commonly used in hair color, shampoo to give it its moisturizing and the ability to emulsify .
154
What percentage does OCS use of ethanolamine
0.6%
