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Physical: Coastal Systems And Landscapes Flashcards

(58 cards)

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1
Q

Dynamic equilibrium

A

Balance between inputs and outputs

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2
Q

Coastal system inputs

A

Energy from:

  • wind
  • waves
  • tides
  • sea currents

Sediment

Geology of coastline

Sea level change

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3
Q

Components of a coastal system

A

Erosional landforms and landscapes

Depositional landforms and landscapes

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4
Q

Outputs of coastal systems

A

Dissipation of wave energy

Accumulation of sediment above the tide limit

Sediment removed beyond local sediment cells

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5
Q

Negative feedback mechanism in a coastal environment

A

A beach in dynamic equilibrium

Sediment is eroded from the beach during a storm

Sediment is deposited offshore forming an offshore bar

Waves now forced into break before reaching the beach dissipating their energy and reducing further erosion when they reach the beach

When the storms calms normal wave conditions rework sediment from the offshore bar back onto the beach

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6
Q

Backshore

A

The area between the high water mark and the landward limit of marine activity

Changes here only occur during storm activity

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7
Q

Foreshore

A

The area lying between the HWM and the LWM

The most important

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8
Q

Inshore

A

Area between the LWM and the point where waves cease to have any influence on the land beneath them

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9
Q

Offshore

A

The area beyond the point where waves cease to impact upon the sea bed and in which activity is limited to deposition of sediments

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10
Q

Nearshore

A

The area extending seaward from the HWM to the area where waves begin to break

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11
Q

Swash zone

A

Area where a turbulent layer of water washes up the beach following that breaking of a wave

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12
Q

Surf zone

A

The area between the point where waves break (forming a foamy bubbly surface) and where the waves then move up the beach as the swash in the swash zone

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13
Q

Breaker zone

A

The area where waves approaching the coast line begin to break usally where the water depth is 5 to 10 m

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14
Q

Outline an example of positive feedback in a coastal system

A

As waves erode the cliff, abrasive material such as sand and gravel will become loose, and the incoming waves will carry these materials, resulting in even more cliff erosion

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15
Q

Erosion

A

The wearing away of the earths surface by the mechanical action of process of glaciers, wind, rivers, marine waves and wind

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16
Q

Fetch

A

Refers to the distance of open water over which a wind blows uninterrupted by a major of land obstacles.

The length of the fetch helps to determine the magnitude and energy of waves reaching the coast

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17
Q

Mass movement

A

The movement of material downhill under the influence of gravity but may also be assisted by rainfall

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18
Q

Weathering

A

The breakdown and decay of rocks at or near the earth’s surface creating regolith that remains in situ until it is moved by erosional processes

Can be mechanical biological or chemical

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19
Q

Importance of wind in a system

A

Primary source of energy

Wave formation

An agent of erosion (abrasion)

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20
Q

wave characteristics

A

Wave height/ amplitude

Wavelength

Wave period

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21
Q

Swash

A

Rush of water up the beach

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22
Q

Backwash

A

Water running back down towards the sea

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23
Q

Two type of waves

A

Constructive and destructive

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24
Q

Constructive waves

Study These Flashcards
A

Low wave height

Long wavelength

Low frequency - 6-8 per minute

Swash more powerful then backwash

25
Destructive wave
High wave height Steep form High frequency - 10-14 per minute Backwash stronger then swash
26
How does wave refraction affect the topography of the beach
Wave energy becomes concentrated on the headland causing greater erosion The low energy waves spill onto the beach resulting in deposition
27
Current
The permanent or seasonal movement of surface water on the sea and oceans
28
Three kinds of current
Longshore currents Rip currents Upwelling
29
Longshore (littoral) currents
Occur when waves hit the coastline at an angle Generates a flow of water running parallel to the current Transports sediment
30
Rip currents
Moving away from the shoreline Develop when seawater is piled up along the coastline
31
Upwelling
Movement of cold water from deep in the ocean towards the surface
32
Tides
The periodic rise and fall in the level of the sea in response to the gravitational pull of the moon
33
Spring tide
Moon and earth in a straight line | Tide raising force strongest
34
Neap tides
Twice a month - moon and sun 90° Lowest month tidal range
35
How is the regular pattern of tides modified in individual locations?
Morphology of the sea bed Proximity of land masses Impact of spinning forces on the earth
36
How is tidal range a significant factor in the development of a coastline?
Determines the upper and lower limits of erosion and deposition and the amount of time each day the littoral one is exposed to sub-aerial weathering
37
Three types of tidal ranges
Macro tidal - more then 4m Mesotidal - 2 - 4 m Microtidal - less then 2 m
38
What areas are affected by storm surges?
The North Sea East coast of Britain
39
Coastal sediment budget
The balance between sediment being added to and removed from the coastal system that system being defined within each individual sediment cell
40
High energy coasts
A coastline where strong steady revealing winds create high energy waves as the rate of erosion is higher then the rate of deposition
41
Low energy coast
A coastline where wave energy is low and the rate of deposition often exceed the rate of erosion of sediment
42
Sediment cell
A distance area of coastline separates form other areas by well designed boundaries such as headlands
43
How many sediment cells is England and wales divided into?
11
44
Name one feature of a submergent coastline
Fjord
45
Name three physical impacts of sea level rise
Flooding of low lying land Increased river flooding Saltwater contamination
46
Name two stores with a sediment cell
Beaches Spits
47
Give one example of how the littoral zone is an example of a physical system
Has inputs of sediment, waves current and winds | Which it performs processes upon an outputs of deposition
48
Evaluate the statement “longshore drift is the most important process on the UK’s coastline”
LSD is very important because it moves material and prevents beaches building up For: landforms create economic opportunities and reduce risk of coastal flooding Against: only operate once other processes have occurred eg weathering
49
How do knowing the inputs and outputs of a coastal system aid strategic planning?
Knowing the inputs allows risk to be evaluated and prepared for, fair allocation of resources Knowing the outputs allows sustainable use, knowing the voucher allows excess to be relocated
50
Explain the development of salt marshes in terms of a system
Inputs of sediment and low wave energy results in an open system where output is less then input
51
Low energy coasts characteristics
Rate of deposition exceeds the rate of erosion Landforms include beaches and spits Case study: Baltic Sea
52
High energy coast line characteristics
Rate of erosion greater then rate of deposition Landforms: headlands, cliffs and wave cut platforms Case study: Atlantic coast of Europe and North America
53
Sources for coastal sediment
Streams or rivers flowing into the sea Estuaries Cliff erosion Offshore sand banks Material from a biological origin
54
Name the 11 sediment cells
St Abb’s head Flamborough head The wash River Thames Selsey bill Portland bill Lands end River Severn St David’s head Bardsey sound Great Orme Slowly firth
55
Coastal sediment budget
The balance between sediment being added and removed from the coastal system
56
Marine processes
Operate upon a coastline and are connected with the sea such as waves tides and longshore drift
57
Sub-aerial processes
Operate on the land but affect them shape of the coastline such as weathering, mass movement and run off
58
Hydraulic action
The impact on rocks of the

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