POOL Flashcards
(29 cards)
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9 Step management cascade
- Skim surface
- Skimmer basket cleanout
- Brush sides
- Vacuum (auto)
- Water chemistry
- Shock?
- Rinse off deck
- Salt cell check
- Main
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Ideal amount of time to wait after chemical addition before retest water chemistry
30 min
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Ideal alkalinity range
100 - 150 ppm
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Why alkalinity important in a pool?
Alkalinity buffers pH by minimizing effects of environmental factors
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Managing low alkalinity
Most common fluctuation
Add sodium bicarbonate (baking soda), AKA alkalinity increaser
Sprinkle on surface, brush excess on bottom until dissolves.
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Managing high alkalinity
Add muriatic acid
Sprinkle on surface, brush excess on bottom of pool until dissolves
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pH Ideal range
7.2 - 7.6
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Two primary factors that effect pool pH and why important
- Most common problem is being to acidic, usually caused by recent rain
- Lots of people swimming with oils or sunblock will shift pool to basic (high pH)
Sanitizer will be far less effective if pH is not in ideal range
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Managing to acidic (low pH)
Soda ash/pH increaser
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Managing to Basic (high pH)
Muriatic acid
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Ideal range for Calcium Hardness and why important
200 - 275 ppm
If to high will cause ‘scaling’. Generally pretty stable.
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managing low calcium hardness
Add ‘calcium increaser’
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managing high calcium hardness
Add fresh water to pool and retest after 30 min
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Ideal chlorine sanitizer levels
1-3 ppm
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Difference between Total, Free, and combined chlorine
TC = FC + CC
FC - chlorine free to attack biologics
CC - Chlorine already attached to biologic, not available for sanitization.
FC should always be higher then CC in a healthy pool
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How does chlorine sanitizer fxn?
Kills bacteria, parasites and viruses by destroying cell walls
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How does salt cell work?
Electrolysis on salt water (NaCl) produces hydrochlourus acid (HCLO).
This further breaks into chlorine gas (cl2), hydrogen gas (h2) and sodium hydroxide (NaOH) which is lye. This is often added to pools to raise pH, so the cell creating it as byproduct creates benefit of maintaining acidity level in pool
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Ideal stabilizer levels and why important
Cyanuric acid (CYA)
40 ppm in regular pool, up to 80 ppm in salt water pool
Sunlight degrades chlorine at 1ppm/hour unless stabilizer present to slow degredation.
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Two types of water clarifiers
- Clarifier/coagulant - Makes tiny particles clump togehter so filter can remove them. Generally need to clean out filter after a strong use
2 Floculant/ Floc - much strong coagulant, creates bigger clumps that fall to the bottom of the pool and have to be vacuumed out.
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Algicide frequency and type
- Generally correct chlorine levels will manage algae
- Can use small amounts as a weekly preventive shock.
- MC used if a disruption in regular pool care that allows algea bloom - sick, vacation, etc.
- Use Polyquat 60 - aka algicide 60
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Shock - general purpose and frequency
Raising sanitizer levels far above normal for short time to destroy all organics.
1x/week during regular swim season
Ideal for:
High swim volume (party/guests)
acute algae bloom
sanitation even - someone shit the pool
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Shock method
Shock added after sun goes down to minimize solar degredation
Run pump for minimum 8 hours to keep entire pool and plumbing at high sanitation level
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Trichlor sanitizer and Shock (5)
- 90% chlorine in dry tablet + CYU. Highest sanitizer level can get for pool
- 10:6 ratio of CHL:CYU
- CYU generally doesnt degrade = constant raising levels if using lots of Trichlor, so monitor to be certain not to high.
- Slow dissolving to allow for gradual release into pool
- LONG shelf life
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Dichlor shock sanitizer (3)
55-62% chlorine + CYU
Granular or tablet
Quick dissolbing