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Raw Materials Flashcards

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1
Q

State 4 origins of raw materials:

A

Mineral origins
Animal origins
Vegetable origins
The chemical industry

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2
Q

Describe an excipient:

A

Base in which inactive ingredients are added to be more readily absorbed

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3
Q

2 categories of excipients?

A

Gels (oil free)

Emulsions (dry skin)

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4
Q

2 categories of emulsions:

A

Oil in water

Water in oil

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5
Q

What skin type is best for “oil in water” emulsion?

A

Client who is lacking oils and very dry

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6
Q

What skin type is “water in oil” emulsion best for?

A

Client who is already producing too much oil so the emulsion is not adding to the problem

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7
Q

Describe an emulsifier

A

Ingredients that keep oil and water solutions mixed well

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8
Q

6 manufacturers guidelines

A
  1. Elimination of toxic materials
  2. Materials must not irritate the skins surface
  3. It shouldn’t give rise to allergic reaction nor widely known to be an allergen
  4. It should not be a potential carcinogen (in the long run)
  5. It should not be acanthotic
  6. Colour should be attractive to look at for sales
  7. It should not spoil
  8. It should not have an unpleasant smell
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9
Q

Why does an esthetician study raw materials?

A

We must have an idea of the methods of manufacturing, know the properties of the raw material and enter into the composition of these products. We should know what they look like, and when and how they should be used.

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10
Q

Describe a surfactant

A

Ingredients in cosmetics that allow the cosmetic to be able to slip across or onto your skin. They also break up oils, fats and other debris and help it to separate from the skin.

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11
Q

Describe liposomes

A

Liposomes are hollow spheres made of phospholipids. As the liposome penetrates the skin it will dissolve and release the nutrient inside to carry out its function.

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12
Q

Describe humectants

A

Humectants are water-binding agents that are hydrophilic or water loving.
Examples: urea, phospholipids, alpha hydroxy acid and sodium PCA

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13
Q

Describe polymers

A

Polymers are part of the encapsulated concept like the liposome, used for the controlled release effect. They improve delivery of nutrients, skin protection end duration of moisturizers.

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14
Q

Do paraben preservatives need to be used to keep products stable? Explain

A

No, there are other ingredients such as urea that have anti microbial properties and act as a preservative in addition to being a beneficiary ingredient in skin care products.

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15
Q

Describe free radicals

A

Free radicals are oxygen atoms that are unstable because they have lost an election in their outer orbit. Attracted to fats which have extra electrons available to stabilize these oxygen atoms. Free facials are attracted to the cell membrane. When enough free radicals attach themselves they reduce its permeability. Proteins, fats, carbs and oxygen can’t get into the cell. Waste toxins and carbon dioxide cannot get out of the cell and therefore the cell will die.

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16
Q

Free radicals occur naturally in the body , but can also be contributed by other factors, what are they?

A
  • sun exposure
  • smoking
  • alcohol
  • pollutants
  • stress
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17
Q

How do free antioxidants help, give 2 examples:

A

Antioxidants work to supply electrons to the atom when they need to be stabilized. Some common antioxidants used in skin care ingredients are:
Tocopherol - vit a
Retinal palmitate - vit e
Ascorbic acid - vit c

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18
Q

Peptides are the main component of ______?

A

Protein

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19
Q

What is the main benefit of alginates?

A

They are extracted from seaweed, and very popular in beauty masks and fat reducing products designed for the throat and body. They normalize the skin moisture content and provide suppleness to the skin.

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20
Q

Azulene is commonly used for ___________ skin types.

A

Irritated and sensitive skin types

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21
Q

Camphor may be made from turpentine. T/F

A

True

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22
Q

List 3 preservatives that also benefit the skin in a positive way.

A

Magnesium chloride- helps refine skin
Sodium chloride- used to treat inflamed lesions
Urea- increases absorption of other active ingredients, relieves itchiness and helps leave skin soft

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23
Q

Beeswax has ______, ______, and _______ properties.

A

Germicidal, skin softening and elasticity enhancing properties. Also anti-inflammatory, antioxidant and antibacterial.

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24
Q

Tissue around extracts from animal origin. T/F

A

True

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25
What is the source of royal jelly?
The food produced by the front salivation glands of the worker bees for the nourishment of the queen bee.
26
Royal jelly is rejuvenating. T/F
True
27
Mineral oil is an excellent excipient. T/F
False - it is a surface product because it does not penetrate the epidermis due to its large molecular structure.
28
Explain the benefit of salicylic acid, and the disadvantage to its use.
It helps to dissolve the top layer of the corneum and improves the look and feel of skin. Also acts as an antiseptic, because of this it is widely used in acne soaps and lotions. In high concentrations it can be absorbed through the skin and cause redness and rashes.
29
______ and ______ are used for physical protection against UVA & UVB
Zinc oxide and titanium dioxide
30
Hydroquinone is used in ______ creams.
Bleaching
31
Menthol has a mild ______ effect on the skin.
Analgesic
32
Witch hazel is used for ______, _______, and ______.
Skin irritations Insect bites Bruises
33
Arnica extract is used for ______ and _______.
Couperose condition | Acne condition
34
What is the primary role of ceramides?
As intercellular lipids is to bind cells together
35
Coenzymes Q10 boosts the _________ of the cells and reinforces the natural defence mechanism.
Energetic metabolism
36
Aloe extract is excellent for sensitive skin and Rx for:
Sunburns Insect bites Skin irritations
37
Urea has a _______ action as well as it relieves ______ and leaves the skin soft and supple.
Desquamation action | Relieves itchiness
38
Explain permuted water:
Water that is partially demineralized by means of a special silicate called zeolite. It is used to prepare cosmetics.
39
Explain distilled water:
Distilled water is the distillate obtained by boiling ordinary water in an alembic and by condensing its vapour by means of a refrigerant. This product is free from all minerals. It is often used in cosmetics.
40
Define hydrolytes:
Plant distilled waters obtained by the distillation of plants, leaves, berries and roots
41
Define hyaluronic acid:
A great humectant that can hold 400 to 2000 of its own weight in water. Used in creams, toners and injectable fillers. Found naturally in the skin. It was initially obtained from the roosters comb but now developed by non animal means
42
List the benefits of probiotics:
- promotes a positive bacterial balance to the skin - may improve skin prone to acne, rosacea, and eczema - helps to maintain the acid mantle
43
List the benefits of coconut oil. Would you recommend your client to use coconut as their moisturizer?
Coconut oil has antibacterial and anti fungal properties, but I wouldn’t recommend my client to use coconut oil as their moisturizer because it is also comedogenic and can lead to clogged pores and potentially inflamed cystic lesions.
44
Collagen
Very popular in skin care formulations it’s great for hydration potential and it’s ability to bind and retain many times it’s weight in water. It is found in animal connective tissue.
45
Alcohol
Used as an antiseptic as well as a solvent given its grease dissolving abilities. Drying in high concentrations.
46
Cetyl alcohol
Found in palm oil, produced synthetically, used as an excipient, emulsifier and thickener.
47
Allantoin (vegetal)
Healing and soothing Temporary anti-irritant Stimulates new tissue growth Appropriate for sensitive, irritated, and acne skins. Found in the great comfrey root.
48
Bentonite (mineral) and Kaolin (mineral)
Mostly used in masks due to its drawing action clearing of the cutaneous pore.
49
Vitamin C allows for longer lasting broader sun protection. T/F
True
50
Use of hormones from animal origin is allowed in esthetics. T/F
False - it is not allowed
51
Enzymes (vegetal)
Promote the breakdown of dead skin cells, mainly used in peels.
52
What are oligo elements?
Zinc, copper, manganese, iron, boron, cobalt, etc. | Highly nutritive and help ensure normal cell metabolism
53
Rooibos contains 50 times more antioxidants than green tea. T/F
True
54
Essential oils (vegetal)
Can be found in the blood stream not long after having been applied to the skin. Also work with the endocrine system due to them containing plant hormones. Each one has their own unique property.
55
Glycerin/ glycerol
Humectant used in moisturizers. May be comedogenic in high concentrations.
56
Paraffin (mineral)
Stimulate sweating and prevent evaporation of perspiration. Not able to penetrate the epidermis.
57
Lanolin. (Animal)
Derived from the sheep’s sebaceous gland. Emollient, emulsifier, and humectant properties. Comedogenic in high concentrations.
58
Titanium dioxide vs chemical sunscreen
Titanium dioxide is a sunblocker and chemical sunscreen is a sunscreen and hormone disrupter.
59
Sulphur (mineral)
Mild antiseptic used in acne creams and lotions
60
Benzoyl peroxide (chemical)
Used in acne preparations, releasees oxygen into the pilosebaceous orifice, diminishing the acne populations. Can cause dryness, irritations, contact dermatitis and photo-toxicity.
61
Shea butter (vegetal)
Protects against dehydration and climatic influences. Obtained from the fruit of the karate tree
62
Micro-sponges (mineral)
Tiny Porous particles able to absorb as much as 4 times their weight in sebum. Ensures matte skin and long wear makeup.

Raw Materials (1 decks)

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