Representations Of Place and Waves Flashcards
Example of formal representation of place
Official statistics
Example of informal representations of place
Photos
Advantages of formal
✔ more accurate
✔ specific
✔easy to compare areas
✔unbiased
Disadvantages of formal
❌ occurs every 10 yrs so out of date
❌can give a very generalised view of an area
Advantages of informal
✔ easy to collect
✔ can be collected at any time
Disadvantages of informal
❌inaccurate
❌ opinionated/biased
❌ difficult to compare places using it
How do waves break?
When waves move into shallow water, the deepest circling water molecules come into contact with the seafloor generating friction.
The wavelength decreases and the deepest part of the wave slows down more than the top causing it to steepen as the crest advances ahead of the base.
When depth is less than 1.3 times the wave height, it breaks
At what point is there significant movement of water and energy?
When the wave breaks
How is shallow water defined?
When depth is half the wavelength
What is the swash driven by?
The transfer of energy (potential to kinetic) cause by the wave breaking
What drives the backwash?
Gravity
Features of constructive waves
Low in height
Long wavelength
Low frequency (6-8 per min)
Swash energy exceeds backwash
Features of destructive waves
Greater height
Shorter wavelengths
Higher frequency
Swash energy is less than baskwash
What do high energy waves do to the beach gradient?
They reduce it.
What do low energy waves do to the beach profile?
They make it steeper by building up the beach face
