test 2

Question 1

coastal processes

Answer 1

important discipline in marine science which examines this important real estate and the processes which constantly change and alter the sediment which largely overlies much of the ground of the region

Question 2

what do we do to examine our coasts

Answer 2

look at physical boundary of coast (bedrock) and the sediment. evaluate wind, waves, and tides

Question 3

wave

Answer 3

undulation in ocean surface that results from some disturbing force (wind, seismic force, gravitional force)

Question 4

how does water move in waves

Answer 4

moves in circular orbits that decline with depth

Question 5

wave height

Answer 5

distance from trough to crest

Question 6

what is twice the waves amplitude

Answer 6

height

Question 7

period

Answer 7

time taken between when any part of a wave passes a fixed point and when the same part of the next wave passes it

Question 8

wavelength

Answer 8

distance between same parts of two waves

Question 9

frequency

Answer 9

number of waves that passes a fixed point. inverse of the period

Question 10

wave classification

Answer 10

based on size, source of energy, or how wave interacts with the ocean floor

Question 11

wave size

Answer 11

length, height, or period. 10th of a second to 24 hrs

Question 12

energy source

Answer 12

wind (most common), tectonic energy, kinetic energy (landslides or meteors), gravitational and centrifugal from moon and sun

Question 13

interaction with ocean floor

Answer 13

how energy is absorbed and reduced.

Question 14

do deep water waves interact with teh ocean floor

Answer 14

no

Question 15

shallow water interaction

Answer 15

interacts with ocean floor, changes shape and loses speed over time

Question 16

capillary waves

Answer 16

light breezes, <2cm

Question 17

wind waves

Answer 17

consistent wind, 1.5-900 meters

Question 18

tsunamis

Answer 18

tectonic forces, landslides, meteors. 20km - 500 km

Question 19

tides

Answer 19

gravity, centrifugal force. 18,000 km

Question 20

what is the typical wind wave

Answer 20

between 60 and 150 meters long, around 3 meter high. most common wave in ocean

Question 21

speed of wind-generated surface waves is controlled by

Answer 21

wind velocity, wind duration, fetch

Question 22

wind velocity

Answer 22

generating force, speed of the wind blowing

Question 23

wind duration

Answer 23

limiting force, time the wind is sustained in that area

Question 24

fetch

Answer 24

limiting force, distance over which the wind is consistently blowing

Question 25

fully developed sea

Answer 25

when wind blows sufficiently long in same direction. creates waves in maximum size, speed, and period

Question 26

shallow water waves are

Answer 26

very long waves that interact with the water even at the great depths of the open ocean

Question 27

shallow water waves can also be

Answer 27

waves in shallow water reached by smaller waves formed offshore

Question 28

deepwater waves

Answer 28

waves that progress through the ocean and don't interact with floor. smaller waves.

Question 29

wave base =

Answer 29

1/2 wavelength

Question 30

wave base

Answer 30

depth in the water above which a passing wave disturbs the water. below which the water is undisturbed.

Question 31

what is the wav ebase determined by

Answer 31

energy of the wave, measured by its wavelength. the longer the wavelength, the deeper the water is disturbed

Question 32

speed of a deepwater wave

Answer 32

C(m/s) = L / t, or 1.57 * t (length / period)

Question 33

speed of a shallow water wave

Answer 33

c = 3.16 (sqrt Depth)

Question 34

deepwater waves speed

Answer 34

celerity (c) = L / t, or swrt(gD) g is graviational force (9.81 m/sec^2) and D is depth in meters or C = 3.13sqrtD

Question 35

tsunamis

Answer 35

very large powerful waves produced by tectonic events

Question 36

because of tsunamis ___ length, tsunamics are considered ___ water waves

Answer 36

extreme, shallow water

Question 37

what happens when waves approaches shoreline

Answer 37

speed and wavelength decreases, height increases, orbitals are more flattened, pointed crests, wide troughs.

Question 38

why do waves slow down in shallow water

Answer 38

they feel the bottom and there's more friction

Question 39

waves break when

Answer 39

gets steeper, will break at ratio of 1:7 (height:length)

Question 40

spilling breakers

Answer 40

low steepness over gentle slopes.

Question 41

where do spilling breakers occur

Answer 41

east coast and gulf coast

Question 42

plunging breakers

Answer 42

steeper waves over moderate slopes. energetic tall waves

Question 43

where to plunging breakers occur

Answer 43

pacific coast

Question 44

surging breakers

Answer 44

beach slope exceeds wave steepness. doesn't curl and break, runs up against the shore and produced foam.

Question 45

wave refraction

Answer 45

the part of wave in deeper water continues at maximum speed while part in shallower water begins to slow, eventually as the entire wave approaches the shoreline the speed evens out

Question 46

swash

Answer 46

water drives onto shore in direction of winds

Question 47

backwash

Answer 47

water returning perpendicularly to ocean

Question 48

west coast characteristics

Answer 48

narrow shelf, steep slope, inward prevailing winds

Question 49

east coast characteristics

Answer 49

broad shelf, gradual shelf, outward prevailing winds

Question 50

tides

Answer 50

periodic short term changes in ocean surface's height. caused by gravitational pulll of moon and sun and motion of the earth

Question 51

pytheas (greek navigator)

Answer 51

first wrote about hte connection between position of the moon and height of the tide

Question 52

isaac newton

Answer 52

determined that gravitational pull is proportional to their size, but inversely proportional to the suare of the distance between them