Textile snakes and ladders cards Flashcards

(187 cards)

1
Q

List 5 stages in production required to make

cotton into a white T-shirt.

A

Bleach cotton > spun > weft knitted > finished >

laid/cut/assembled

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2
Q

How long are cotton fibres?

A

Less than 5cm

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3
Q

What type of standard yarns can cotton

fibres be made into?

A

Ring spun or open-end spun

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4
Q

State the 2 fundamental differences between

weft and warp knitting.

A

Weft is formed horizontally and can be made from
1 yarn, warp needs many yarns and is formed
vertically.

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5
Q

Among plain, twill and satin, which weave

structure gives the best surface lustre?

A

Satin

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6
Q

State the difference between dyeing and

printing

A

Dyeing is the production of single uniform
colour of textiles. Printing is the production
of multiple copies of designs with multiple
colours

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7
Q

When is a fibre called a filament?

A

When it is very long/continuous

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8
Q

Define the term ‘elongation’ as it relates to

fibres and filaments.

A

How much the fibre/filament stretches before it breaks

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9
Q

Why is cotton comfortable to wear in

normal fashion garments?

A

Because it is fine/soft and absorbent.

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10
Q

What fibre classification does cotton belong

to?

A

Natural cellulosic

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11
Q

Why is combed ring spun yarn better

quality than normal ring spun yarn?

A

Fibres are more aligned so it is

stronger and smoother.

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12
Q

Why are open-end spun yarns cheaper than

ring-spun?

A

They are quicker to make

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13
Q

What are columns of stitches called in

knitted fabrics?

A

Wales

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14
Q

What are rows of stitches called in knitted

fabrics?

A

Courses

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15
Q

Why is plain woven fabric good with

‘not snagging’?

A

Lowest float length of weave structures.

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16
Q

State the type of weft insertion which has

the lowest production rate.

A

Shuttle.

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17
Q

State the three stages of printing

process.

A

Transfer; fixation; wash of

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18
Q

State the name of chemical needed to attach

pigments to the fibre materials.

A

Binder

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19
Q

What term describes a fabric’s ability

to recover from being compressed?

A

Resilience

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20
Q

What fibre/filament property

determines how soft it will be?

A

Fineness

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21
Q

Put the following cottons in order

from most to least expensive:

A

Sea Island > Egyptian > American

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22
Q

Which fibre requires pesticides, insecticides, herbicides + fungicides to grow?

A

Conventional cotton

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23
Q

Name the 2 types of standard yarn

that wool can be made into:

A

Woollen and worsted

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24
Q

Which type of yarn made from wool is

traditionally used in good quality suits?

A

Worsted

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25
Name the type of fabric produced weft knitting machines with 1 needle bed.
Single jersey (sometimes plain knit)
26
Name the type of fabric produced weft | knitting machines with 2 needle beds.
Double jersey (rib, interlock and purl)
27
State the part name of a weaving loom | used to control the sett of warp yarn.
Reed.
28
Which weave structure provides the | best abrasion resistance?
Plain weave.
29
Describe what ‘Mass coloration’ | means.
Pigments or dyes are mixed with the | molten polymer before extrusion.
30
State one feature of late stage dyeing.
Too late to correct unlevelness; or garments may be dyed to popular fashion colours as required; or quick response to orders is possible.
31
How fine (in microns) is a fine fibre?
Less than 18µ
32
State the standard international unit | for measuring filament and yarn count
Tex
33
What is flax known as once it is spun/ | woven/knitted?
Linen
34
Name 2 bast fibres.
2 of: linen, hemp, jute, ramie, nettle
35
Which type of yarn, traditionally made from wool, is used to knit warm jumpers?
Woollen spun
36
``` Which type of yarn is smoothest and most slippery (ideal for linings)? ```
Flat multi-filament yarn
37
What is a ‘transfer stitch’?
A loop that is moved to a different | needle once it has been knitted
38
Name 2 uses of ‘transfer stitches’.
Shaping knitted panels, patterning (e.g. | lace and cables) or integral knit
39
Describe one of the weaving actions | ‘beat up’.
Pulling ‘reed’ towards weaver to add | new pick to the finished cloth.
40
State one essential property of warp | yarn for a woven cloth.
Uniform; or strong, relatively high twist; or evenly coated with size; or equal tension from warp beam
41
State the solvent used as printing | paste ingredient.
water.
42
State the pH condition of dye bath | when dying wool using acid dye.
Acidic condition.
43
What is meant by a ‘blend’ of fibres?
Different fibres of similar lengths have been | spun together in a yarn.
44
Why is it important to know the stiffness/ | limpness of a fibre or fabric?
Because it affects fabric drape and thus | suitability for different garments/markets
45
What lustrous cellulosic fibre, used in suits, shirts, dresses, etc., is very strong, durable, cool, absorbent and creases easily?
Flax (linen)
46
Which fibre was canvas named after and | originally made from?
Hemp (cannabis sativa)
47
Increasing the twist in a yarn increases its?
Strength (also density, hardness, fineness)
48
Increasing twist in a yarn decreases its?
Warmth and softness (+ possibly hairiness)
49
Specify the type of yarn normally knitted on very fine gauge knitting machines running at high speeds.
Synthetic multi-filaments.
50
What fabric type cannot normally be | unravelled?
Warp knitted fabrics
51
Give names to the two plain weave | derivatives.
rib and hopsack
52
State the name of parts on a dobby loom that control the raising and lowering of the warp threads, creating the shed for the weft to be inserted.
shafts.
53
Explain what is meant by ‘water-repellent’.
fabric is relatively resistant to surface wetting, absorption or penetration of water.
54
Explain ‘Waterproof’ property of a fabric.
Textile material that is fully resistant to | absorption or penetration of water.
55
Give 2 reasons why fibres might be blended
To reduce cost, improve durability/easycare/handle/appearance/marketability
56
Why are non-wovens cheaper than knitted | or woven fabrics?
They are made direct from fibre so spinning | costs are saved and very quick to make
57
What fibre are towels, bed sheets, curtains | and upholstery commonly made from?
Cotton.
58
What is the most common fibre blend | globally?
Cotton/polyester.
59
What impact does increasing fibre alignment have on a yarn’s physical properties?
It will be stronger and less warm.
60
What impact does increasing fibre | alignment have on a yarn’s appearance?
It will be finer and smoother
61
Name the lace fabric that has surface floats | making it look embroidered.
Fall-plate lace (Raschel knitted)
62
In warp knitting, what method is used to | deliver yarn at the same rate to all needles?
Guide bars deliver yarn from warp beams.
63
Explain ‘satin’ weave structure vs ‘sateen’.
Satin: long warp floats hide weft yarns.
64
Explain ‘sateen’ weave structure vs ‘satin’.
Sateen: long weft floats hide warp yarns.
65
Name the most important form of | industrial fabric printing.
Screen printing.
66
Name the most economical method of | printing for short runs.
Digital printing
67
Name 2 methods of making non-woven | fabrics.
Felting, mechanical entanglement, thermal | bonding, adhesive bonding, stitch bonding
68
Which fibres can be felted to make nonwoven fabric?
Wool (or hair fibres with scales)
69
What natural cellulosic fibre is considered | very environmentally friendly to grow?
Hemp
70
Which natural cellulosic fibre, traditionally used to make ropes and sacking has been largely replaced by polypropylene?
Jute.
71
What process increases the strength of | man-made filament yarn?
Drawing.
72
What process increases the bulk, warmth | and ‘natural handle’ in filament yarns?
Texturising.
73
What method is used to deliver yarn at different rates to different needles in warp knitting?
Yarn supplied through guide bar from creel.
74
What fibre/filament type is easier to warp knit than weft knit because of the method of yarn delivery and stitch formation?
Elastane filaments.
75
State the five actions of weaving process.
Warp let-off, shedding, picking, beat up, | fabric take up.
76
Explain the ‘shedding’ process.
the opening formed when some | shafts/warp yarns lift and others lower.
77
Dyes and Pigments, which one is used more | commonly in printing of textiles?
Pigments.
78
Easy-care finishes is used for cotton or | polyester fabric?
Cotton.
79
What type of fibres can be thermally | bonded?
Thermoplastic (or synthetic).
80
Inter-fibre friction is an essential fibre characteristic for what type of non-woven production method?
Mechanical entanglement.
81
Nettle, jute, hemp and flax are examples of | which 2 specific categories of fibre?
Bast fibres and natural cellulosic.
82
Name the most popular fine wool fibre.
Merino wool.
83
What optional process for filament yarns | makes them easier to knit, weave and sew?
Texturising.
84
What type of yarn is ideal for use in lining | materials?
Flat multi-filament yarns.
85
State 2 of the preparatory processes | necessary for warp knitting.
Warping, drawing, make pattern wheels.
86
Why is it normal to buy warp knitted fabric | from stock rather than unique designs?
Long set up times make only long | production runs economic.
87
Explain ‘colour and weave effect’.
Woven fabrics which pattern through using | warp and weft yarns in various predetermined colour combinations.
88
State dyeing conditions used for polyester | using disperse dye.
Under pressure at 130o C in specialised dyeing equipment.
89
What textile end-uses need flame | retardancy finishing?
Upholstery and furnishings, children’s | nightclothes
90
Which non-woven method of production is | commonly used to make composites?
Stitch bonding.
91
What is reclaimed wool called?
Shoddy.
92
What good quality fibre normally comes | from Australia, New Zealand or South Africa?
Merino wool.
93
Which type of filament yarn is most | commonly used in clothing?
Textured multi-filament yarns.
94
Which type of filament yarn is least | commonly used in clothing?
Mono-filament yarns.
95
Why do compound knitting needles knit | faster with fewer faults than latch needles?
Lower clearing height.
96
What is the name for knitwear made from | panels knitted to size and shape.
Fully-fashioned knitwear
97
Give two commercial names of woven fabric made through ‘colour and weave effect’.
Tartan, gingham, check a brat, etc.
98
Crepe fabric is made yarns with low or high | number of twist?
High number of twist.
99
Screen and digital printing, which one gives | high depths of shade?
Screen printing.
100
Name any 2 types of screen printing?
Hand screen, rotary screen, semi-automatic | and fully-automated flatbed printing
101
Which combination of physical properties is | difficult to achieve in non-woven fabric?
High strength/durability with good drape.
102
What is most common method of making | textiles into insulation materials?
Thermally bonded (in oven) non-wovens
103
Which natural fibre types are weak but | durable, warm and has good elasticity?
Natural protein fibres, wool and hair fibres.
104
Which fibre type is resilient and wears | attractively making it ideal for carpets?
Wool.
105
The name given to a yarn with loops along | its surface is?
Bouclé yarn.
106
Name the yarn type that has lumps of fibre | along its length.
Slub yarn, knop yarn or bourette yarn.
107
What is the name for seamless knitwear | garments knitted in one piece.
Wholegarment knitwear.
108
Which type of knitting is commonly used to | knit garments to shape?
Weft knitting (fully-fashioned/wholegarment)
109
Give one name of woven fabric based on the types of weave loom used it is made from.
Jacquard fabric or hand loom made cloth
110
Give two variations/types of twill structure.
Herringbone, Diamond
111
Milling process is used for wool or cotton | fabric?
Wool.
112
Explain the ‘stenter’ process.
Fabric passes horizontally through a succession of chambers at different temperatures.
113
Name 2 important characteristics of | disposable textiles.
Cheap, compostable/biodegradable.
114
What is the name for non-woven fabrics, used in composites, with fibres orientated in different directions for high strength.
Multi-axial non-wovens.
115
Name the only naturally occurring textile | filament.
Silk.
116
What is the name of the filament/fibre taken | from open-ended cocoons?
Wild, freedom or tussah silk.
117
Lingerie, tights and active sportswear are most commonly made from what type of yarn?
Textured multi-filament yarns (with elastane)
118
The collective name given to bouclé, knop, | chenille and jaspé yarns is?
‘Fancy’ yarns.
119
Weft knitted fabrics with face and reverse | stitches in the same wale are called?
Purl fabrics
120
Name the stretchy weft knitted fabric structure with face and reverse stitches in the same course on both sides of fabric.
Rib fabrics.
121
Plain, twill and satin, which weave structure provides a woven fabric highest tear strength?
Satin.
122
Plain, twill and satin, which weave structure provides the best dimensional stability of a woven fabric?
Plain
123
Reactive dyes are water soluble, is it used | dying cotton or polyester?
Cotton
124
Disperse dyes are only partially soluble in | water, is it used for dyeing wool or polyester?
Polyester.
125
Which fabric type can be used to make | nappies, durable ‘paper’ and geotextiles?
Non-wovens.
126
What are ‘spun-laced’, ‘dry-laid’ and ‘meltblown’ examples of?
Non-woven fabric construction methods.
127
What filament is around 1µ and holds 1/3 its | weight in moisture without feeling wet?
Silk.
128
What filament is commonly associated with | luxury ties, lingerie, shirts and dress?
Silk
129
Name the yarn type that looks like thin | ribbons of velvet.
Chenille yarn.
130
Folding yarns increases their regularity and | therefore?
Strength (and fabric uniformity/productivity).
131
Name the weft knitted fabric structure that is most commonly used, tends to curl and has different appearance front to back.
Plain knit (or single jersey).
132
Which weft knitted stitch type is used to add | texture, weight and/or warmth to fabric?
Tuck stitches.
133
‘Colour effect’ and ‘weave structure’ which | one affects woven fabric property?
Weave structure
134
Satin and sateen, which structure is selected | when natural staple fibre yarns is used?
Sateen.
135
Thickener and softener, which one is not | component of printing paste?
softener
136
Rotary screen, flat-bed screen and digital printing, which one gives the fastest production for long runs?
Rotary screen | printing
137
Apparel is the main end-use for textile fibres, | name the 2 other major end-uses.
Interiors and technical/industrial
138
Name any 2 ‘technical’ end-uses for textiles | Any 2 of geotextiles, medical, hygiene, transport
(tyre cords, brake pads, carbon fibre wings, | etc.), belting, filters, composites
139
Which fibre is soft (fibre fineness 10-20µ), absorbent, can be boil washed but creases in laundry and is slow to dry?
Cotton
140
Which fibre is the major component in Tshirts, socks, sweatshirts, shirts and jeans?
Cotton
141
What spinning processes result in the | strongest, finest, smoothest cotton yarns?
Combing and ring spinning
142
How ‘Tex’ is defined?
Weight of 1000 meter yarn.
143
Name the warp knitting machine with high | productivity that knits simple fabrics.
Tricot warp knitting machine.
144
Name the warp knitting machine that is optimised for knitting fancy fabrics including lace and nets.
Raschel warp knitting machine.
145
State the name of weave structure gives 3D | surface effect.
Honeycomb
146
State the name of weave structure which can | provide good drape of a woven fabric.
Satin or sateen.
147
State the name of a mechanical finishing process that is used to give fabric a desirable softness and a bulky handle (‘fulling’).
Raising.
148
State the name of a wet finishing process that is | used to improve cotton surface lustre.
Mercerisation.
149
Define the term ‘elastic recovery’?
How much a textile returns to its original | dimensions after extension.
150
Explain what ‘pilling’ is.
Little bobbles of fibre that form on the | surface of a fabric.
151
What specific fibre is a cross between Giza and American cotton, producing a long, fine (and soft) fibre.
Pima cotton.
152
What fibre is grown, pulled, retted, | skutched and hackled before spinning?
Flax (linen)
153
Name the spinning process for wool-length | fibres resulting in hairy, warm yarns.
Woollen spinning.
154
Name the spinning process for wool-length fibres that combs/aligns fibres to make stronger, leaner, finer and cooler yarns.
Worsted spinning.
155
Name the warp knitted fabric with 2 ‘face fabrics’ and yarns zig-zagging between the ‘faces’ to create a gap between them.
Spacer fabric.
156
State 1 advantage of ‘simultaneous | knitting’ and state what it is.
Faster or more uniform stitches are formed | when all needles move together to knit.
157
Describe dobby weaving mechanism.
Groups of warp yarns are lifted by shafts.
158
Describe jacquard weaving mechanism.
Individual warp yarns are lifted.
159
State the name of a mechanical finishing process that is used to improve surface lustre of fabrics.
Calendaring.
160
Cotton and polyester, which one usually | needs antistatic finishing?
Polyester.
161
Why do environmental conditions and nutrition | have a significant impact on fibre price/quality?
Because they affect fibre fineness.
162
What is the ‘golden bale’ a competition for?
The world’s finest bale of wool (awarded | annually)
163
Whiteness, micronaire value, proportion of immature fibres, low trash content, length and fineness are all quality variables associated with which fibre?
Cotton
164
What is the main issue associated with a high proportion of immature cotton fibres when spinning?
A high nep (small knots) count leading to | irregular (lumpy) yarns.
165
Explain how elastane is combined with other textiles to improve their elastic recovery (can it be blended? How is it incorporated?)
Elastane must be used as a filament, so it cannot be ‘blended’ but can be used as a covered or un-covered filament yarn (and knitted or woven with other yarns to make fabric) or it can be made into a composite yarn where elastane filaments form the yarn core and other fibres or filaments are wrapped around it
166
What niche fibre is noted for its lustre and use in | car hoods and hairy knitwear/woven fabric?
Mohair.
167
Name the company/marketing brand that specifies and audits the performance and quality of textiles licensed to use its logo?
Woolmark
168
What increases breathing problems in workers, machine down time and cross-contamination leading to fabric faults?
Fibre fly in spinning.
169
Name 2 fibre/filaments that are melt spun.
Any 2 of: nylon, polyester, elastane, | polypropylene, polyethylene
170
Why are production rates of synthetic fabrics normally higher than those of fabrics made from natural fibres?
Because synthetics are stronger and can | withstand higher tensions in processing.
171
Name 2 thermoplastic fibre/filaments and 2 that | are not thermoplastic.
Thermoplastic: nylon, polyester, elastane, polypropylene, polyethylene Not thermoplastic: cotton, wool, silk, viscose (any natural or cellulosic)
172
Explain why 10 denier tights are transparent and | 100 denier tights are opaque.
10 denier tights are made from yarn that weighs 10g/9000m so is thinner than 100 denier yarn but loop sizes are similar so there are gaps between yarn/loops.
173
Which man-made textile is nearly always used in fibre form (not filament) and is most commonly used as a replacement for wool?
Acrylic
174
Which is the most popular textile material | (fibre/filament) in the world?
Polyester
175
Which man-made fibre/filament has excellent | drape and takes strong dyes very well?
Viscose (or rayon, same thing)
176
Which man-made textile is commonly used in ‘intimate apparel’ (underwear) because of its good comfort properties and high strength?
Nylon
177
What fibre is finer than 18.5µ and combed from | goats yielding about 110g/goat/year?
Cashmere.
178
State the maximum thickness of a ‘fine’ fibre?
18µ
179
Which man-made material must ALWAYS be | used in filament form?
Elastane
180
Which man-made material is commonly used in sportswear because it has good strength, durability and wicking properties?
Polyester
181
Which man-made material is most commonly blended with cotton to make ‘easy-care’ textiles such as shirts and bedlinen?
Polyester
182
Name the man-made material that is considered | highly sustainable and environmentally friendly.
Lyocell
183
Which textile fibre/filament is NEVER used in | pure form? (is always used with other fibres)
Elastane
184
Flat, mono- and multi- are terms associated with | what?
Filament yarns
185
Alpaca, vicuna, mohair and cashmere are | examples of which type of fibre?
Animal/protein hair fibres.
186
What rare animal fibre is the finest and most | expensive?
Vicuna (or less than 13µ merino)
187
Give two commercial names of tweed fabrics
Harris tweed, Scotch tweed