Types of Cosmetic Product and Their Preparation (Hair Products) Flashcards
(101 cards)
1
Q
______ is a term used to describe the study of hair and its diseases and care.
A
Trichology
2
Q
_______ is the general term for the action taken to help maintain personal hair hygiene.
A
Hair care
3
Q
_______ is a staple hair care product that cleanses the hair and scalp.
A
Shampoo
4
Q
It is composed of multiple layers of keratinized, flattened cells (scales), which overlap in a roof-tile formation with an intercellular cement to bind them together. Composed primarily of keratin.
A
Cuticle
5
Q
Major component of the hair shaft. It contributes to the mechanical properties of the hair fiber, including strength, elasticity and curliness. Presence of melanin in the cortex that gives hair color
A
Cortex
6
Q
referred to the core. Viewed as a framework of keratin
A
Medulla
7
Q
A
8
Q
are designed to remove all
kinds of soilage, including
sebum, sweat, environmental
dirt, and hair conditioners, as
well as to beautify the hair
and make it easy to handle.
A
Shampoo
9
Q
Shampoos are surfactant-based preparations. Therefore, their
cleaning principle is _____.
A
emulsification
10
Q
Insoluble particulate soil can be removed by _______ assisted by
repulsion between the surfactant molecules adsorbed onto
the hair fiber and those dissolved in the soil
A
electrostatic
repulsion between the soil and the hair fiber
11
Q
• Highly effective cleansers & foamers
• Often the main ingredient in shampoo
• Can be irritating depending on the type
A
Anionic Surfactants (Main Cleansing Agents)
12
Q
Types of Anionic Surfactants
A
Alkyl Sulfates (e.g., Sodium Lauryl Sulfate - SLS)
Alkyl Ether Sulfates (e.g., Sodium Laureth Sulfate - SLES)
Alkyl Polyethylene Glycol Sulfates (APES)
Sulfosuccinates
13
Q
→ Strong cleansers, more irritating
A
Alkyl Sulfates (e.g., Sodium Lauryl Sulfate - SLS)
14
Q
→ Gentler than SLS, more mild and foamy
A
Alkyl Ether Sulfates (e.g., Sodium Laureth Sulfate - SLES)
15
Q
→ Soluble in water & oil, milder than SLS; for formulations where milder surfactant is desired
A
Alkyl Polyethylene Glycol Sulfates (APES)
16
Q
→ Very mild, often used in baby shampoos
→ Monoesters preferred over diesters for better foam & less irritation
A
Sulfosuccinates
17
Q
• No charge – gentle and versatile
• Added for foam boosting, thickening, conditioning
A
Non-Ionic Surfactants (Supporting Agents)
18
Q
• Lauramide DEA, Cocamide MEA/DEA
• Functions: Foam boosters, thickeners, conditioners
A
Alkanolamides
19
Q
• Co-surfactants with anti-static, mild conditioning effects and foam boosting
A
Amine Oxides
20
Q
• Change charge based on pH (acidic = positive, basic = negative)
• Common in baby shampoosfor their mildness & low eye
irritation
A
Amphoteric Surfactants (Mild Co-surfactants)
21
Q
Gentle cleansing, used in sensitive formulations
A
Lauroamphoacetate
22
Q
Reduces irritation, boosts foam
A
Cocamidopropyl Betaine
23
Q
• Positively charged
• Not used for cleansing – hard to rinse, can attract dirt/oil
• Main use: Hair conditioners (for static reduction, smoothness)
A
Cationic Surfactants (Conditioners, Not Cleansers)
24
Q
Typical Ratio:
A
10 parts anionic surfactant : 1 part foam booster
e.g., 40% SLES + 4% cocamidopropyl betaine
25
• Add thickness, help stabilize foam
• Sometimes present as byproducts (found as
impurities in alkyl sulfate surfactants)
Fatty alcohols (e.g., cetyl, stearyl alcohol)
26
increase viscosity and influence the product feel
(ex. sodium chloride, gums, celluloses, polyvinyl alcohol and
acrylates copolymer.)
Thickeners
27
vehicle for shampoos.
Water
28
prevent the growth of microorganisms in the
formulations (ex. parabens, urea derivatives, isothiazolinones,
benzalkonium chloride)
Preservatives
29
Stability Study Follows ______—
Guidelines on the stability testing of cosmetic products
ISO/TR 18811:2018(en) Cosmetics
30
Microbiology Test Follow ______ “Evaluation of the
antimicrobial protection of a cosmetic product”
ISO 11930
31
Viscosity changes ranging from ______ (i.e., a pseudoplastic behavior) are desirable
9,593.67 to 910 cps
32
are essentially shampoos that
contain valuable active
ingredients for the prevention
and treatment of dandruff.
Anti-dandruff shampoo
33
______ is a common
condition of the scalp
characterized by flaking,
itching, and redness on the
scalp.
Dandruff
34
regarded as nontoxic since it is
extracted from a natural source (i.e., coconut), however, when it interacts with other contaminants from the manufacturing process, nitrates (considered carcinogens), are formed.
SLS (Sodium Lauryl Sulfate)
35
have been deemed extremely
toxic to fish and other aquatic organisms. They have been
reported to be harmful to the central nervous system and are also carcinogenic.
Alkylphenol ethoxylates (APEs)
36
has been reported to cause
irritation to the skin and eyes and allergic contact dermatits.
Cocamidopropyl betaine (CAPB)
37
acts as a formaldehyde releaser, and is
regarded as not safe (i.e., a skin toxicant and allergen)
Quaternium-15
38
when exposure
levels exceed _____ of formaldehyde, it can
result in watery eyes, burning sensations in the eyes and throat,
nausea, and difficulty breathing.
0.1 parts per million (ppm)
39
in animal studies, has been shown to destroy
hormones, alter nervous system functions, and induce
miscarriages. It is listed as a known carcinogen in humans and
induces irritation of the eyes, nose, throat, and skin.
Dioxane
40
in a small number of cases, can cause irritation
of the skin, scalp, and eyes.
Dimethicone
41
often found in conditioners, are used to
disperse fragrance and other oil components. It leaves a residue
on the skin and scalp and damages the natural barrier by altering
the natural pH of the skin.
Polysorbates
42
commonly used as preservatives; aside from
disrupting hormone function and increasing the risk of cancer,
allergic reactions and skin irritations have also been reported.
Parabens
43
clogs the lymphatic system and may cause organ
toxicity; some may also develop hypersensitivity reactions with
this ingredient.
Fragrance
44
designed to repair chemical and
environmental damage, replace
natural lipids removed by
shampooing, and facilitate
managing and styling hair.
Hair conditioners
45
______ are beneficial for permanently colored or waved
hair where the cuticle is damaged.
Quarternary conditioners/cationic ingredients
46
Examples of quarternary conditioners
stearalkonium chloride, cetrimonium chloride,
quaterniums, and polyquaterniums (such as polyquaternium-10)
47
________ coat hair fibers with a thin polymer layer.
Film-forming conditioners
48
The most common film-forming agent used in such conditioners is ______
polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP)
49
contain a small amount of
proteins that can penetrate the holes in the hair shaft and
increase its fracture strength.
Protein-containing conditioners
50
form a thin film on the hair without creating the
appearance of greasy and limp hair.
Silicones
51
Examples for silicones include
cyclomethicone, dimethicone, and
amodimethicone
52
help improve the hair volume and height
by increasing the hair strand stiffness and
hair fiber interactions.
Polymer-based product
53
Hair spray, styling gel, mousse, styling
gum, and liquid setting products work
based on this principle
Polymer-based product
54
can help smooth out frizz and
increase hair shine by aligning fibers and reducing friction and can also
have a conditioning effect on hair
fibers.
Emollient-based products
55
Hair cream, wax, pomade, brilliantine, and oil spray work based on this principle.
Emollient-based products
56
(main ingredient) responsible for holding the hair in
the styled configuration and stiffening hair.
• Ex. PVP, vinylpyrrolidone/dimethylaminoethylmethacrylate
(VP/DMAEMA) copolymer
Polymers
57
provide viscosity control to the formulations
• Ex. polyacrylates, such as carbomer; cellulose derivatives, such as
hydroxyethylcellulose; and polysaccharides
Thickeners
58
dissolve the polymers and act as vehicles for the
formulations
• Ex. Water and Alcohol
Solvents
59
provide protection against metal ions,
improve the stability of gels, and increase the efficiency of
preservative systems.
• Ex. EDTA and its derivatives
Chelating agents
60
provide protection against microbial
contamination in water-based systems
• Ex. parabens and phenoxyethanol
Preservatives
61
Additional ingredients can include ______ that contribute
to the wet look provided by gels
humectants
62
provides a waxy, oily mass for the
formulations. Ingredients of this also provide a
hair conditioning effect, help reduce friction, and prevent
damage.
• Examples for such ingredients include beeswax, petrolatum, lanolin,
vegetable oils, mineral oils, and silicones.
anhydrous base
63
they cannot be broken up by
heat or water, only chemically
disulfide bonds
64
easily broken by water and
heat
van der Waals forces
65
sensitive to pH;
therefore, they are easily broken by strong
alkaline or acidic solutions
salt bonds/ionic bonds
66
can be easily broken by water and heat
hydrogen bonds
67
• is a chemical process combined with mechanical manipulation
of the hair used to make straight hair curly
Permanent waving/perming
68
are responsible for breaking the disulfide
bonds
• Most commonly, ammonium or sodium thioglycolate is used.
Additional examples include glycerol monothioglycolate, thiolactic acid
(mainly used as a co-reducing agent), and sodium sulphite
Reducing agents
69
included in the formulations to achieve the
pH at which the reducing agent can work well.
• Examples for alkalizing ingredients include ammonium hydroxide and
triethanolamine.
Alkalizing additives
70
also known as relaxing
or lanthionization
• a common practice among individuals with highly curly (kinky) hair to
make the hair more manageable
Permanent hair straightening
71
also known as “lye relaxers”
• Contain various metal hydroxides, such as sodium, lithium,
potassium, or guanidine hydroxide.
• These products usually have a highly alkaline pH (pH 12–13) and
are, therefore, very irritating both to the hair and to the scalp.
Hydroxide -based straighteners
72
“No-lye” relaxers are also available, which contain alternative
hydroxides, such as ______
guanidine hydroxide
73
primarily containing hydrogen peroxide,
bromates, and perborates, reset the pH to a neutral level,
minimize hair shaft swelling, and complete the relaxing
treatment.
Neutralizer products
74
•are Reducing agents, similar to hair perming
products
•Work based on the same principle as thioglycolate-
based hair perming products
Thioglycolate-based straighteners
75
“Brazilian Keratin Treatment”
or “Brazilian Blowout,”
• The procedure consists of the application of a straightening solution
containing keratin followed by the application of high-temperature flat
iron (around 150–220°C).
Formaldehyde -based products
76
______ are not able to produce
lighter shades than the originally presenting
shade and cannot significantly darken the
originally presenting color
non-oxidizing dyes
77
provide a weak coating
on the hair cuticle and are easily washed
out after the first shampooing
• Temporary hair dyes are ideal for patients with
less than 15% gray hair
• Dye has shorter retention time on the hair fiber
as it does not contain ammonia— hence no
opening of the hair shaft (cuticle)
• Higher solubility in water
• Lack bleaching properties
• Usually impart one level lighter than the
original hair color but do not work well with
dark-colored or black hair
• Moreover, the water-solubility and minimal
penetration of temporary hair colorants can be
due to their acidic and anionic characteristics.
Temporary dyes
78
employ dyes that are
small enough to penetrate the hair cuticle to
some degree, in addition to staining it from
the outside, and, hence, remain on the healthy
hair through 4–6 shampoo washes.
Semi-Permanent Dyes
79
Semi-permanent coloring agents usually include:
• Nitrophenylenediamines
• nitroaminophenols
• azo dyes
80
Oxidizing Products: are two-component
systems
• one component contains
• Primary intermediates: (colorless dye
intermediates such as PPD; p-toluenediamine,
PTD and p-aminophenols)
• couplers (such as resorcinol and m-
aminophenols) in a highly alkaline formulation
81
Oxidizing Products: are two-component
systems
• the other component
hydrogen peroxide (the oxidizing agent,
otherwise known as the developer or activator)
82
typically employ 2% hydrogen peroxide and lower levels of alkalizers
(usually monoethanolamine)
• Their effect is longer lasting than that of semi-permanent colors;
however, it is still not permanent due to the use of non-ammoniacal
alkaline agent.
Demi-permanent dyes
83
84
play an
aesthetic role by providing a unique pearly,
shimmering effect or a creamy appearance for
the formulations (ex. polyglycol esters, latex
opacifiers, pearlescent color additives)
Opacifiers and pearlescent agents
85
make the hair soft, shiny, and
easier to manage (ex. quats, a type of cationic
surfactant); humectants, such as glycerin;
proteins; silicones, such as dimethicone)
Conditioners
86
adjust the pH of products (ex. citric
acid and glycolic acid)
pH buffers
87
contribute to the stability of the product by
binding to metal ions (ex. EDTA and its derivatives)
Chelating agents
88
include compounds that provide a
unique feel or appearance for the products but do not influence
their functional (i.e., cleaning) property (ex. color ingredients;
perfumes; botanical extracts, such as tea tree oil; and vitamins,
such as vitamin B5 panthenol)
Additional ingredients
89
can also be incorporated into shampoos,
which make them to be considered drugs.
Active ingredients
90
a typical method in which all components do not
interact with each other.
Method A
91
What is added in the method as pH adjustment?
Citric acid is added to adjust the pH within the range
5.6-6.2.
92
this method is utilized when some ingredients are hard
to dissolve.
Method B
93
this method is followed when heat is needed to
make a solution.
Method C
94
evaluation of viscosity using
Brookfield viscometer
Rheological Evaluation
95
96
(also known as the developer or oxidizing
agent): This ingredient, in varying forms and strengths, helps
initiate the color-forming process and creates longer-lasting
color.
Hydrogen peroxide
97
This alkaline allows for lightening by acting as
a catalyst when the permanent hair color comes together
with the peroxide.
Ammonia
98
This is used as a vehicle for dyes
and modifiers that evenly distribute the colorant mixture in
the hair.
Formulation base
99
These give color tones, such as
green or purple, which should complement the dye
pigment. Couplers contain electron donors in aromatic
rings such as NH, and OH in meta positions.
Modifiers/couplers
100
the primary dye
immediately used in permanent colors
paraphenylenediamine (p-phenylenediamine)
101
