FORTIFIED WINES 💪🏼 Flashcards
Key choices affecting style, quality and price in fortified wines
- Grape variety
- Vineyard site
- Timing of harvest
- Skin contact and extraction
- Timing of fortification
- The fortifying spirit
- Maturation
- Blending
- Finishing
Components of fortified wine influenced by grape variety
- Aromas and flavours
- Acidity
- Colour
- Tannins
How grape variety influences aromas and flavours of fortified wine
It can either provide its own aroma and flavour characters to the wine (Muscat in VDNs w/ protective winemaking and Rutherglen Muscat w/ oxidative winemaking) or be simply a neutral base for the flavours of maturation (Sherry Palomino).
How grape variety influences acidity of fortified wine
Madeira (Sercial and Verdelho grapes) has naturally high levels of acidity. Some Sherries (Palomino grape) can give the same sensation although the acidity is low, due to high alcohol and bone-dry palate.
How grape variety influences colour of fortified wine
Tawny Port is made from grapes with light colour instead of Vintage Port (deep colour, more phenolic compounds because of the long ageing). Touriga Nacional and Sousão improve the colour.
How grape variety influences tannins of fortified wine
High levels of tannins are not required nor desirable in early-drinking styles (Ruby Port or Maury Grenat). Tannins in colour stability make medium(+) or high levels of tannins beneficial in long-aged wines. Tannins soften with age and become more integrated.
How vineyard site influences the style of fortified wine
The vineyards of the Douro are scored according to factors such as location, aspect, and altitude. This score determines how much Port wine can be produced from that plot. Vintage Ports from the best plots.
Muscat de Frontignan in the Languedoc produces slightly fuller wines with riper flavours from low altitude vineyards, than the high-altitude sites of Muscat de St-Jean-de-Minervois.
Factors that determine the time of harvest for fortified wines
1) No botrytis
Botrytis (noble rot) is not desirable, so harvest before the risk of rain, increased humidity.
2) Alcohol
Some styles require the grapes at just beyond the minimum level of potential alcohol required by law. No unripe fruit flavours. Sherry made from Palomino, the potential alcohol and health of the grapes are much more important for determining the harvesting date than the range of flavours.
3) Sugars
Rutherglen Muscat, Pedro Ximénez (PX), and Moscatel Sherry require high levels of sugars, so the grapes are left on the vine longer.
How skin contact and extraction influence the style of fortified wine
The extraction of colour, tannins and flavours is a key process for red fortified wines. These wines are often sweet and made by adding the fortifying alcohol midway through the fermentation process, so usually period of maceration to as little as 2-3 days. Extraction techniques need to be as effective as possible especially for wines that are to undergo long ageing (high concentrations of colour, tannin and flavour). The Port industry have developed specialist equipment to permit maximum extraction whilst remaining gentle. Less extraction for basic Tawny and Rosé Ports (paler appearance).
Madeira, Muscat based VDNs and White Port, white grapes can macerate for a limited time to increase body, texture and extract additional flavours.
No skin contact for Sherry Fino and Manzanilla because the phenolic compounds extracted can restrict the growth of flor yeast.
How timing of fortification influences the style of fortified wine
Dry fortified wines are fortified once fermentation is complete.
The majority of sweet fortified wines are fortified midway through fermentation, stopping the fermentation by raising the overall alcohol level above that at which yeast can operate and leaving residual sugar (the greater the amount of sugar, the earlier the fortification).
Sherry Pale Cream, Medium and Cream are made by fermenting the wine to dryness and then adding a sweetening component. Sherry Cream is a dry Oloroso often blended with PX, combining the characteristics of aged, dry Palomino with raisined PX.
How fortifying spirit influences the style of fortified wine
The majority are fortified with 95-96% abv grape spirit. These spirits don’t mask the characteristics of the wine, because the high alcohol content is neutral in aroma and flavour. The high level of alcohol minimises the volume of spirit needed to bring the fortified wine to the required alcoholic strength (15-22% abv).
Port must be fortified with a grape spirit of 77% abv (+/- 0.5%). Spirit is more characterful and contributes more of its own aroma and flavour characteristics to the blend. Significant volume is required. Some producers choose to use more aromatic styles of spirits, especially in Red Ports. For Rosé Ports is better a relatively subtle spirit (delicate style of wine).
The strength and volume of fortifying spirit added influences the final alcohol level of the wine.
The abv of the grape spirit used for the majority of fortified wines
95-96%
The abv of the grape spirit used for Port wine
77% (+/- 0.5%)
How maturation influences the style of fortified wine
It’s a defining stage in the production of many fortified wines.
- Some fortified wines (some VDNs, Ruby and Rosé Ports, some White Ports) are released relatively early from the winery, early-drinking style. Usually, stored in stainless steel or concrete and are protected from oxygen. Youthful and primary flavours.
- Other wines (Vintage and some LBV Ports) are released after a short period of ageing with the intention that they will improve in the bottle. Stored for a few years in large oak vessels before bottling. Designated to age in the bottle so very concentrated with high levels of tannins on release. After bottle ageing, dried fruit and soft and integrated tannins.
- Others (premium Tawny Ports, Madeiras, Rutherglen Muscat and some styles of VDNs and Sherries) are aged oxidatively. Usually, maturation in small wooden vessels (encouraging oxygen exposure and increasing the rates of evaporation). A number of these wines are also matured in warm or heated conditions (boost oxidation, evaporation and maturation). Aromas of nuts, caramel, and dried fruits.
- Another technique is biological ageing (Fino and Manzanilla Sherries). Veil of flor yeast protects the wine from oxidation while lowering levels of glycerol and contributing aromas of hay, apple skin, bread dough and nuts.
Examples of fortified wines which are released early from the winery
Some VDNs, Ruby and Rosé Ports, some White Ports.
Examples of fortified wines which are released after short ageing from the winery
Vintage and some LBV Ports.
Examples of fortified wines which are released after oxidative ageing from the winery
Premium Tawny Ports, Madeiras, Rutherglen Muscat and some styles of VDNs and Sherries.
Examples of fortified wines which are released after biological ageing from the winery
Fino and Manzanilla Sherries.
Key aims of blending in fortified wines
- Balance
- Consistency
- Style
- Complexity
- Volume
- Price
How blending influences the balance of fortified wine
High alcohol so integration with other components; wines are generally aged for long periods of time (more concentration, less primary fruit flavours) and will be blended with younger wines before bottling, to give a degree of freshness to the wine by balancing out the developed aromas and flavours (Sherry and Rutherglen Muscat).
How blending influences the consistency of fortified wine
As many wines are non-vintage, so consistency every year; in some regions, wines from each vintage are matured individually (static maturation), then they’re blended; solera system (Sherry and modified version for Rutherglen Muscat) to ensure consistency amongst the vessels of a particular age.
How blending influences the style of fortified wine
Blending influences the style of wine, for example, the choice of grape varieties used in Port production will impact the colour, tannin and flavour concentration. This influences the wine’s ability to age or not. In some styles of Sherry, a sweetening component (PX) is added to the final wine to create a sweet style of wine; some brands use blending to create a certain “house style”.
How blending influences the complexity of fortified wine
Wines of different ages or wines that have been treated differently in the winery can be blended to create a greater range of flavours.
How blending influences the volume of fortified wine
In most regions, vineyards are small so it’s necessary to blend from different producers to have a sufficient volume for sales; others use small vessels for maturation and blend is usually needed before bottling to make up a sufficient volume of consistent wine.
How blending influences the price of fortified wine
A producer may blend different quality wines together or wines of different ages to achieve a wine at the desired price point.
Static maturation - definition
When the wines of different vintages mature separately.
How finishing options influence the style of fortified wine
Stabilising, fining, and filtration before bottling to have a clean and clear product for the consumer.
Some styles of Port (Vintage, Single Quinta, Crusted and some LBVs) are not filtrated so they continue to develop in bottle. They present sediments when being poured.
Some styles of Sherry termed “en rama” either undergo a light fining and filtration or not be fined or filtered at all (more pronounced and complex than their fined and filtered counterparts).
Examples of fortified wines which are not filtrated
Some styles of Port: Vintage, Single Quinta, Crusted and some LBVs.
En Rama
No legal definition, wines that have been finished and packaged in a way to be the best representation of the wine straight from the barrel. Usually no fining and filtration (a little for exports). It’s all for the dry Sherries (Fino En Rama is the most common). More intense and complex wines, so higher prices.
Rancio
Tasting term used to describe a collection of aromas and flavours (leather, wood varnish and strong coffee) that are found in some styles of wine. Compounds extracted from wooden vessels, oxygen and time all play a role.
Maderisation
The process whereby the wine is heated and oxidised. The name becomes from the process of maturation that is used and has been for a number of centuries, for the wines of Madeira.
Alcohol scale for SAT in fortified wines
Low – 15-16.4% abv
Medium – 16.5-18.4% abv
High – at least 18.5% abv
Important facts in the history of Sherry
The area around the city of Jerez (Andalusia) has a long history of growing grapes and producing wines, ever since the Phoenicians. During the period of Moorish rule (8th-13th centuries), wine consumption was prohibited, but wine production continued. After Jerez came under Christian rule (13th century) both domestic consumption and exports grew rapidly as English, Irish and Flemish traders. Benefits from free trade agreements with France and England. Cristoforo Colombo contributed also to the exports of Sherry towards America.
Other countries began to produce their own, often poor-quality, “Sherries” after seeing the popularity of Sherry in the late 19th and early 20th. So, in 1933, Spain’s first wine-related Regulatory Council, the Consejo Regulador, was formed, setting regulations to control the production and trading of Sherry wines.
Sherry sales fell during the Second World War. They recovered in the decades following until their peak in the 1970s (1.5 million hL in 1979). After this, fall in demand because younger consumers wanted different styles, so a surplus of Sherry (cheap and low-quality).
Role of Ruiz Mateos S.A. in the history of Sherry
Also known as Rumasa, it was one business that played a key part in the Sherry fluctuations. It started as an almacenista, before starting to ship its own Sherry in 1950. Supply of Harveys of Bristol and major supplier for their Bristol Cream. Built a business empire, taking Sherry bodegas and also other businesses (hotels, banks, etc.). Domination of the Sherry industry in the late 1970s, drove down the prices, so negatively impact. In 1983, the government claimed unpaid taxes by it. Its Sherry bodegas were sold causing a substantial rise in unemployment and social unrest. Also, other bodegas closed because they were unable to sustain themselves (poor-quality wines).
Climate of the area of production for Sherry wines
Andalusia (southern Spain) at low latitude (36°N) and with low altitude (0-90 m above sea level), with influences from the Atlantic Ocean. Jerez has a hot Mediterranean climate with hot, dry summers and mild, relatively rainy winters. Poniente wind (from the west) provides cooling and humid influence in the summer. Levante wind (from the south-east) has a hot and dry flow and it can make the climate arider. This can cause grapes to transpire more quickly, concentrating the sugars. Too much sugar can be negative (difficult to ferment, flor development). High number of cloud-free days, so high number of sunlight hours (fully ripening but also sunburn if no sufficient shading).
Main areas of production for Sherry wines
The grapes for Sherry must come from the Zona de Producción or Marco de Jerez (7,000 ha). Grapes grown in this zone can be used for DO Jerez-Xérès-Sherry or DO Manzanilla – Sanlúcar de Barrameda. Pedro Ximénez (PX) can be grown around Montilla but matured in the Zona de Crianza and still be labelled as DO Jerez-Xérès-Sherry.
The Zona de Producción is split into two parts: Jerez Superior (90%, better vineyard sites, albariza soil) and Jerez Zona.
Pago
Small and delimited area into the vineyard able to give wines with unique characteristics thanks to several factors (aspect, soil, microclimate).
Key components of Andalusia soil
Albariza, barros, arenas.
Albariza
The main type of soil in Andalusia, a mixture of limestone, silica, and clay. It retains and gradually releases water from winter rainfall. The ability of the albariza to retain water means that higher planting densities and yields are possible in Jerez. It reduces also evaporation from the soil surface by forming a crust when dry. Albariza has a light colour, so there is the reflection of the sun lights on the vine (growing improving).
Barros
Type of soil in Andalusia with greater clay content.
Arenas
Sandy soil in Andalusia.
Main grape varieties for the Sherry production
Palomino, Moscatel (Muscat of Alexandria), Pedro Ximénez (PX).
Palomino
Also known as Palomino Fino and Listán. 99% of the Sherry production, used in all dry and sweetened styles of Sherry. Mid to late-ripening, well-suited to dry, sunny weather, capable to produce large yields. It loses acidity quickly when it nears maturity. Neutral variety (not so much influence to primary aromas of Sherry).
Moscatel
Also known as Muscat of Alexandria. < 1% of the Sherry production, it’s called Moscatel de Chipiona after the coastal town of Chipiona (mainly grown on arenas soil). Late ripening and well adapted to heat and drought. Aromatic grape (grape, blossom). Used for sweet fortified.
Pedro Ximénez
Also known as PX. < 1% of the Sherry production, also used for sweet fortified wines of the same name or as a sweetening agent. Small, thin-skinned, it accumulates high levels of sugar. Traditionally dried in the sun to further concentrate sugars. Neutral variety (flavours come from the drying and maturing processes). It can be grown in the Montilla district (Cordoba) and shipped into the Zona de Producción either as fresh or raisined grapes or as a young wine.
Main training systems for Sherry vineyards
Process of being transformed, mainly to accommodate mechanisation (pruning, harvesting and soil management).
Replacement cane pruning (vara y pulgar) is the main training system. Now cordon trained (single or double) and spur pruned is increasing to allow mechanisation. VSP trellising ensures the canopy remains open and arranged for easy mechanisation, some shading to prevent sunburn. Within-row spacing is just over 1 m, between-row spacing is wide enough to allow tractors to pass.
Vara y pulgar
Replacement cane pruning in the Sherry region.
The maximum yields for Sherry vineyards
80 hL/ha (usually closer to 60-70 hL/ha).
Aserpia
The system used to work the soil after harvest, creating a series of troughs or gullies to catch the winter rains. Otherwise, rainwater would flow down (vineyards on gentle slopes, 10-15%) because albariza is a permeating soil. Now it’s done mechanically.
The most widely used rootstocks for Sherry vineyards
333EM, 41-B, and 13-5 EVEX (hybrids of V. Vinifera and V. Berlandieri).
13-5 EVEX
One of the most used rootstocks for Sherry vineyards. It was developed by the local viticultural research station, the most successful to date. It’s tolerant of limestone soils and drought. It produces good yields.
Main climate diseases in the Sherry region
A little disease in the dry growing season. Mildew can be a problem in the spring due to warm humid weather after any rain. No frost (hot climate and Atlantic influence). European grapevine moth is a problem and often managed using pheromone traps.
Characteristics of Sherry harvest
Harvest begins in the first week of August (inland vineyards) and finishes in the second week of September (coastal sites). It tends to be as early as possible to avoid the risk of autumn rain. The grapes have 12% potential alcohol, total acidity around 5 g/L and a pH of 3.3-3.5. Palomino loses acidity quickly in the final stages of ripening, so acidification when levels are below 5 g/L.
The PX and Moscatel grapes for naturally sweet wines are harvested slightly later, in order to have a higher sugar concentration.
60% of the total grape volume is harvested by machine mostly at night or in the early hours of the morning (fewer chances of oxidation and microbial spoilage).
Primera yema
Free run juice and the lightest pressings for Sherry wines (typically 60-75% of the juice yield). It is designated for biologically aged wines, though it can be used for oxidatively aged wines. It is used for biologically aged wines as skin contact is not desirable as phenolic compounds can restrict the growth of flor yeast.
The maximum permitted juice yield for Sherry
70 L/100kg of grapes.
The reason why must clarification before fermentation is important in the Sherry production
Albariza soil is dusty.
Ways for must clarification during the production of Sherry
Cold settling, centrifugation or flotation.
Types of yeasts, temperature range, and vessels for the fermentation in the Sherry production
Separately fermentations for the musts that come from different areas. Most producers use cultured yeasts and ferment at around 22-26°C (beneficial for a reliable fermentation to dryness, no need to retain primary fruity aromas). Stainless steel vessels. A smaller number of producers uses barrel for fermentation (fuller body).
Times for fermentation in the Sherry production
The vast majority of the sugar is fermented within the first seven days. Then, a slow phase of fermentation of the last sugar (2 weeks).
How to prevent malo during the Sherry production and the reason
No malo by chilling the must (acidity is low and buttery flavours are not wanted). SO2 to prevent malo has a negative impact on flor development.
What happens during the First Classification of Sherry
Tasting and analysis of each batch of base wine after fermentation, it decides whether the batch will be used for biological ageing (lighter-bodied, less intensely flavoured wines) or oxidative ageing (fuller bodied, more intense wines).
Abvs of fortification for Sherry
Wines for biological ageing will be fortified to 15-15.5% abv (ideal condition for flor). Wines for oxidative ageing will be fortified to 17% abv.
Abv of fortifying spirit for Sherry
95% abv (no aromas and flavours wanted)
Sobretablas
Stage after fortification in which the wines are stored (remain in tanks or transferred to wooden barrels) before joining the solera system. This stage precedes the Second Classification.
What happens during the Second Classification of Sherry
After some months from the First Classification, the wines marked as biological ageing will be tasted and analysed in the Second Classification:
- Fino or Manzanilla, full layer of flor and have remained fresh;
- Amontillado, slightly less delicate;
- Palo Cortado, full-bodied and intensely flavoured.
Fermentation process for Sherry wines
Grapes are pressed on arrival and skin contact avoided.
For must destined for biological ageing, phenolics should be low so free-run juice of the lightest pressings are used. High levels of phenolics can impact the growth of the flor.
For oxidative styles of Sherry, the later press fractions can be used, as high levels of phenolics are not an issue in this wine style.
Both styles clarify the must prior to fermentation. Inoculation is usually by the addition of cultured yeast and fermentation is carried out between 22-26ºC in stainless steel tanks. Wines are fermented to dryness and malolactic conversion is avoided due to the naturally low acidity already present and the need to produce a neutral style of wine.
Post-fermentation process for Sherry wines
Post-fermentation wines are tasted and analysed (First Classification) to determine if they will be destined for biological ageing (lighter body with light flavour intensity) or oxidative ageing (fuller body and more intense flavours).
Biological destined wines will be fortified to 15% abv and oxidative destined wines will be fortified to 17% abv which inhibits the formation of flor yeast. The fortifying spirit is 95% abv.
Sobretablas stage after fortification. Then, the wines marked as biological ageing will be tasted and analysed in the Second Classification (Fino/Manzanilla, Amontillado, Palo Cortado).
In the end, solera system.
Municipalities of the Zona de Crianza
Jerez de la Frontera, El Puerto de Santa Maria and Sanlúcar de Barrameda.
Area of maturation for DO Jerez-Xérès-Sherry
For the wines labelled DO Jerez-Xérès-Sherry can be in the Zona de Crianza (Jerez de la Frontera, El Puerto de Santa Maria and Sanlúcar de Barrameda). Moscatel can be also matured in the municipalities of Chipiona and Chiclana de Frontera.
Area of maturation for DO Manzanilla – Sanlúcar de Barrameda
Sanlúcar de Barrameda.
Types of vessels used during the Sherry maturation
Old wooden vessels are used. Different sizes, most common is 600 L butt. American oak (historical reasons and cheaper) but also French. They’re very old, so no contribution in oak flavours.
Bodegas key points for the Sherry maturation
Bodegas are specifically designed for optimum conditions of maturation without air conditioning systems. Thick walls (constant temperature), tall buildings with high ceilings (warm air rises away from the rows of butts), small windows near the roof (cool winds from the Atlantic to lower temperatures and raise humidity levels) with thin blinds (sunlight diffusion and prevention of dust and insect), earth floor (wetted during summer for lower temperatures and more humidity).
Fluctuations between summer and winter, so flor can often not be maintained.
The Solera System - definition
Most Sherry is a non-vintage product, the solera system is a method of fractional blending that is used to maintain consistency and quality every year.
Criadera
It’s the section of barrels of wines (same vintage) that makes up the solera system.
Solera
It’s the criadera of the oldest wine into the Solera System.
The Solera System - process
- up to 40% is taken from each barrel in the solera;
- the same proportion from the barrels in the 1st criadera, blended in a tank (consistency) and used to top up the barrels in the solera;
- the same process between 2nd criadera with 1st criadera, and so on;
- the youngest criadera is topped up with the sobretablas.
How to realise an inexpensive Fino Sherry
Inexpensive Fino with 4th and 5th criaderas and a small proportion of 1st criadera (complexity).
How to realise a mid-priced or premium Fino Sherry
Mid-priced or premium Fino with a great proportion of solera, 1st criadera (complexity) and 4th/5th criaderas (freshness).
Example of a blend from different Solera systems during the Sherry production
The wines for Amontillado may undergo 5 years in a Fino system and then 8 years in an Amontillado system.
The Solera System - rules
No more than 40% of the wine from one solera system can be removed for blending and bottling each calendar year (the solera system always retains most of its wine). Any wine that is released and bottled for sale must be a minimum of two years old.
Flor - definition
Flor is comprised of four strains of Saccharomyces cerevisiae (found on the skins of the grapes from the Jerez region and also in the bodegas). It’s typically used in biological ageing for Sherry production.
Flor - ideal conditions for the development
Max 15.5% abv (flor yeast consume alcohol, but struggle to survive above 16% abv), no SO2 adding (it inhibits the development of flor), Sherry butts are left 85-90% full (flor needs oxygen), the temperature of the warehouse between 16-20°C and humidity above 65%.
Flor - influence on the wine
Flor protects wine from oxidation (pale lemon colour) and it consumes alcohol in the wine releasing acetaldehyde (apple aroma like apple skin or bruised apple, hay and/or chamomile). It consumes also glycerol, so light body (the very dry nature). It also reduces the levels of acetic acid.
The nature of the flor changes in different areas, so different results in the wines.
Overtime in the barrel, the flor yeast reproduces and dies (fall to the bottom). It starts autolysis so savouring, nutty flavours, enhancing the texture of the wine.
Nutrients for flor
Alcohol, glycerol, and acetic acid.
The reasons why biological ageing uses the solera system
- to maintain style and quality;
- to refresh the nutrient levels for flor in older wines (thick layer of flor alive).
The reasons why bodegas remove small proportions of wine during biological ageing
- to refresh the nutrient levels for flor in older wines (thick layer of flor alive);
- to bottle a fresh wine, ready to the market (not suitable for bottle ageing).
Biological ageing - definition
Maturing the wine under a layer of flor.
The influence of oxidative ageing on the wine
The colour change from lemon to gold, amber and then brown. Levels of alcohol increase slightly with ageing as, in the environment of the bodega, water is generally lost from the barrel at a quicker rate than ethanol (3-5% of volume per year). So other components become more concentrated. Glycerol levels rise (fuller and rounder body), aromas and flavours on tertiary and oxidative characteristics such as caramel and nuts. Acetaldehyde decreases slightly but levels of acetic acid and ethyl acetate increase slightly.
Operations to do before bottling Sherry
- Tartrate stabilisation, fining and filtration prior to bottling.
- Filtration is necessary for biologically aged Sherry to remove flor yeast (it can start to develop once the bottle is opened).
- Cork, cork stoppers or screw cap. Packaged and sealed within the three Sherry towns.
Dry Sherries
Fino and Manzanilla, Manzanilla Pasada, Amontillado, Palo Cortado, Oloroso.
Residual sugar < 5 g/L.
Fino and Manzanilla
Only biological ageing. Pale lemon colour. Dry, light to medium bodied, with low acidity and low alcohol of 15-15.5% abv. Their aromas and flavours depend on the length of time spent in the solera but may include aromas associated with acetaldehyde rather than primary fruit, bread dough and almonds. From good to outstanding quality. Prices are inexpensive to premium or even super-premium.
Wines that are matured in the coastal municipality of Sanlúcar de Barrameda qualify as Manzanilla de Sanlúcar de Barrameda. They have a thicker layer of flor (more oxygen protection) than those from Jerez, because of maritime climate, no seasonal change and high humidity. The greater protection from oxygen and lower levels of acetaldehyde (different strains in Jerez) mean that Manzanillas often taste lighter and fresher than Finos. So, in the Manzanilla solera system is needed the replenishing with young wines more frequently to support flor.
Manzanilla Pasada
Manzanilla is subjected to a short period of oxidative ageing. The flor may be left to die naturally by not refreshing the barrels with new wine for around a year. Then, the wine enters into a Manzanilla Pasada solera system. Two years older than Manzanilla, starts to become like Amontillado.
Amontillado
It must have the attributes from both biological and oxidative ageing. It starts in a Fino solera system, refortification to 17% abv (killing the flor), then the Amontillado solera system. Inexpensive Amontillados are likely to use young biologically aged wines (from youngest criaderas). More expensive wines will be matured for longer and hence be more complex. Good to outstanding quality, mid-priced to premium or even super-premium.
Palo Cortado
Aromas like Amontillado and palate like Oloroso. Sugar level < 5 g/L and alcohol between 17-22% abv. No stipulations on winemaking and maturation practices. Fino solera system and then Palo Cortado solera system. It’s a Fino wine during the Second Classification, but less delicate, more complexity and less able to support a thick layer of flor (it could oxidize). Less biological ageing than an Amontillado (less prominent the acetaldehyde aromas). Higher levels of glycerol, components are more concentrated, so Palo Cortado has a slightly fuller, rounder body than Amontillado. Usually premium prices (some mid-priced), very good to outstanding quality.
Oloroso
Oxidative ageing. After fermentation, fortification to 17% abv. Brown colour. Tertiary, oxidative aromas of toffee and walnut. Some inexpensive, acceptable to good quality are early released from the solera system. Also well-matured Oloroso with good to outstanding quality and premium prices.
Process of making Naturally Sweet Sherries
- Grapes are left on the vine longer to concentrate the sugars.
- After harvest, they are dried in the sun for 2-3 weeks which results in the evaporation of water content from the grapes, concentrating the sugars further and aromas of dried fruit (raisin) developing.
- Fermentation will stop naturally at about 4-6% abv.
- Wines are fortified to 15-16% abv.
- Wines are generally matured oxidatively in a solera system which again concentrates the sugars and aromas.
Naturally Sweet Sherry
PX and Moscatel.
PX (Naturally Sweet Sherry)
Single varietal PX has a minimum residual sugar level of 212 g/L, it’s common that reaches 450-550 g/L. Full bodied (like a syrup), low acidity, pronounced aromas of raisins, molasses and liquorice. Oxidative style. Inexpensive to premium price and good to outstanding quality. It can be used as blending components for Sweetened Sherries.
Moscatel (Naturally Sweet Sherry)
Single varietal Moscatel is less common. Minimum sugar level of 160 g/L, but usually 325-375 g/L. They can be in both a non-oxidative and oxidative (barrels ageing) style. Inexpensive to premium price and good to outstanding quality. It can be used as blending components for Sweetened Sherries.
Sweetened Sherries
Pale Cream, Medium and Cream.
Pale Cream Sherry
Biological ageing prior to sweetening. RCGM is generally used as the sweetening component (no adding of colour or flavours). Very subtle flor character. No very long ageing and the sweetening component dilutes some of the flor-derived characteristics. Medium-sweet to sweet. Most are inexpensive and acceptable to good quality.
Medium Sherry
It has both biological and oxidative ageing characteristics. Usually blended with PX for sweetening. Medium Sherries can range from off-dry to sweet. From inexpensive to premium price, acceptable to outstanding quality. Cheapest wines from young wines. Premium wines from a high proportion of well-matured Amontillado, Oloroso, and PX.
Cream Sherry
Only oxidative characteristics. Usually blended with PX for sweetening. It’s always sweet. From inexpensive to premium price, acceptable to outstanding quality. Cheapest wines from young wines. Premium wines from a high proportion of well-matured Amontillado, Oloroso, and PX.
Sherries with an indication of age
VOS and VORS, 12- and 15-year-old Sherry.
VOS and VORS
VOS (Vinum Optimum Signatum / Very Old Sherry) has an average age of 20 years or more. VORS (Vinum Optimum Rare Signatum / Very Old Rare Sherry) has an average age of 30 years or more. Every single batch has an assessment for typicity by a tasting panel and also sent for laboratory analysis to provide evidence of the age of the wine. Little astringent wines, producers can blend in a little sweet wine (PX), as long as it doesn’t mask the original dry wine. Only Amontillado, Palo Cortado, Oloroso, and PX. Very small quantities, very good or outstanding quality, premium and super-premium prices (rarity).
12- and 15-year-old Sherries
Slightly lower average age. Tasting and laboratory analysis on a yearly basis. Only Amontillado, Palo Cortado, Oloroso, and PX.
Sherry styles that can legally be bottled with an age statement on the label
Amontillado, Palo Cortado, Oloroso, and PX.
Categories of company in the Sherry business
- Bodegas de la Zona de Producción (Production Bodega);
- Bodegas de Crianza y Almacenado (Ageing and Storage Bodega);
- Bodegas de Crianza y Expedición (Ageing and Shipping Bodega).
Bodegas de la Zona de Producción (Production Bodega)
Usually large cooperatives, press grapes and ferment the must into base wine. Must be located in the Sherry production zone but not needed in the Zona de Crianza. They are often owned by a company within one of the other registers but can be independent and will sell the base wine to stockist bodegas. They may sell their own wines, but these cannot qualify for DO Jerez-Xérès-Sherry or DO Manzanilla - Sanlúcar de Barrameda.
Bodegas de Crianza y Almacenado (Ageing and Storage Bodega)
Also called almacenistas, mature wines. They must be located in the Zona de Crianza and tend to be relatively small in the amount of wine they mature. The wines must then be sold to Bodegas de Crianza y Expedición.
Bodegas de Crianza y Expedición (Ageing and Shipping Bodega)
Also called shippers, the only permitted to export or sell DO Jerez-Xérès-Sherry or DO Manzanilla – Sanlúcar de Barrameda wines to the market. They must be located in the Zona de Crianza. They are permitted to mature the wines that can come young from Bodegas de la Zona de Producción or mature from Bodegas de Crianza y Almacenado. The wines from almacenistas may be blended with the shipper’s own stocks to make up the volume or add complexity. The wines are sold under the shipper’s own brands.
Consejo Regulador
Founded in 1933.
- Maintains all the vineyard registers and sets parameters (max yield, min alcohol) for base wines.
- Oversees the rotation of stock in the bodegas and verifies the authenticity of aged-dated Sherries.
- Sets the regulations and legislation for labelling terms permitted for each style of Sherry (each style must conform to certain attributes, e.g. residual sugar, alcohol level, colour, winemaking process, maturation).
- Major promotional body (marketing), from events (International Sherry Week) to educational courses.
The main export markets for Sherry
UK, Holland, Germany, and USA.
Latitude of Andalusia
36°N
Altitude of vineyards in Andalusia
0-90 m above sea level
Alternative name for the Zona de Producción
Marco de Jerez
Characteristics of the Palomino grapes when picked
- 12% potential alcohol;
- 5 g/L acidity;
- 3.3-3.5 pH.
