Lesson 6 - Exfoliation (pg 173)

Question 1

What is exfoliation of the skin?

Answer 1

The term exfoliation refers to the peeling or sloughing of the horny layer of the skin. Use caution when exfoliating the skin. It is important to note that the aestheticians domain is the superficial epidermidis, not treatments that involve the live layers of the skin below the epidermidis.

Question 2

What are the benefits of exfoliation?

Answer 2

• Skin texture is smoother and softer
• Follicle openings are cleaner
• Deep pore cleansing extraction are easier
• The cell turnover rate is increased bringing new cells to the surface more rapidly
• ability to retain moisture and lipids is improved
• Product penetration has improved and delivery of ingredients into the epidermidis is more effective
• Blood flow in circulation are stimulated
• Make up application a smoother and more even

Question 3

Which skin conditions or skin types is exfoliation especially beneficial for?

Answer 3

• Oily, clogged skin with blackheads, whiteheads, and minor acne breakouts, keeps follicles clean
• Dry, dehydrated skin with cell buildup, flaking, and a tight dry surface
• dull, lifeless looking skin [this skin condition actually has a tremendous buildup of dead cells that produces a slight gray colour on the surface]

Question 4

What are the two types of exfoliation?

Answer 4

Chemical and mechanical

Question 5

Describe mechanical exfoliants

Answer 5

-Exfoliants that require a rubbing action

• A method of physically rubbing dead cells off the skin; examples of mechanical peeling include granular scrubs, or treatments that use a brushing machine
• The movement of the brushes are scrubs remove cells from the surface of the corneum
• Granular scrubs are usually used after cleansing from one to 2 times per week and I rinsed with water
• Frequency of use depends on the skin condition

Question 6

Describe chemical exfoliation and or exfoliants

Answer 6

• Dead cells and the intercellular matrix, or glue that holds them together [desmosomes] are dissolved by chemical agents such as AHA’s
• alpha hydroxy acid and beta hydroxy acids are probably the most effective tools for treating photo ageing skin
• AHAS and BHAS are naturally occurring mild acids and used as chemical exfoliants. Glycollic [sugarcane], lactic [milk ferment], Malic [apples], citric and tartaric [grapes] are AHA’s
• Glycollic acid has the smallest molecular structure and therefore has the ability to penetrate the deepest of all AHAS. For this reason it is considered the most active and highly effective to exfoliate, brighten and smooth the skins texture. Products with high concentration of glycollic acid should be used with caution, especially on very thin and sensitive skin
• Salicylic acid [metabolite of aspirin] is a type of BHA’s. Which is the least strong chemical of the two. Citric acid was originally cited as a BHA that is now considered to be a mild AHA.
• salicylic acid is oil soluble so it can get down into the pores to cut through the oil that’s clogging them. It also has antibacterial and anti-inflammatory properties so it’s perfect for treating oily and problematic skin.
• these exfoliants work by loosening the bond between cells in the epidermis. They can also help lighten pigmented areas, soften rough skin, and heal areas that are prone to breakouts.

Question 7

Describe enzyme peels

Answer 7

• Unlike AHA’s, enzymes digest only the dead cells on the surface [for example papaya]. Superficial enzyme peel is mild. AHA’s are much stronger than enzymes.
• Enzyme peels involve use of caratolastic enzymes, which help speed up the breakdown of keratin, the protein in a skin. One enzyme used often is propane, which is derived from papaya. Another frequently used enzyme bromelain, which is extracted from pineapple and pumpkin.
• There are two types of enzyme treatments: masks and gommage
• Gommage Is the second type of enzyme peel also known as rolled off mask. This treatment is usually a combination of an enzyme and a mechanical exfoliation.

Sun protection is necessary after exfoliating treatments, especially those done with chemical exfoliants.

Question 8

What is the main purpose of the rotary brush?

Answer 8

• to lightly exfoliate the skin, and assist in the cleaning process.
• brushes stimulate the skin and help soften excess oil, dirt and cell build up.
• do not brush on acne or inflamed skin.

Question 9

What is often considered to be the most important machine used in esthestics by estheticians?

Answer 9

Steamer

Question 10

Why should the steamer not be used too often on one client?

Answer 10

It should not be used frequently on couperose or inflamed skin as it can dilate the capillaries and follicles causing more redness and irritation

Question 11

When is the steam vaporizer used?

Answer 11

• introduced in first facial

- steam is used after exfoliation and before extractions

Question 12

What is the purpose of the steamer?

Answer 12

• soften dead skin cells
• Softens comedones
• Beneficial for sinuses and congestion
• Increase circulation and metabolism
• Relaxes the client/reduces anxiety
• ozone feature will disinfect and oxygenate the skin while sedating the sebaceous glands

Question 13

Which skin types are the ozone feature for?

Answer 13

Ozone is only for oily and acne skin type and conditions. This is because it disinfects, oxygenates, and sedates the sebaceous glands.

Question 14

How many oxygen atoms does ozone consist of? When is it created?

Answer 14

Ordinary oxygen in the atmosphere consists of two oxygen atoms. Ozone consists of three oxygen atoms.

oZone is what is created after a lightning storm and has a distinct smell

Question 15

What are the benefits and downsides to ozone?

Answer 15

• Ozone has antiseptic qualities
• Ozone molecules have the ability to kill bacteria and other microorganisms
• With that being said ozone also is a strong oxidizer that creates free radicals

Question 16

Describe the protocol of using the steamer

Answer 16

• Always heat up the steamer at the start of your treatment/or when you are on your skin analysis step in class
• Never direct the spout at the face until there is an even flow of steam
• Always use distilled water and never overfill
• Never touch the glass jar on the steamer when it’s hot
• Always steam from above the head and not from below the chin
• Keep the steam approximately 15 to 18 inches off the face
• If too close steam can cause overheating of the skin and further irritation or burning
• Do not leave your client during the steaming
• Clean the steamer regularly to avoid mineral buildup [think of how you clean your kettle at home – can be done with vinegar once in a while]
• do not let the water level run low in the steamer as that may break the glass

Question 17

Describe the proper protocol for cleaning the steamer

Answer 17

• Steamers must be clean thoroughly once a month with distilled water and vinegar
• Place to capfuls of vinegar in the steamer and the rest filled with distilled water until the water reaches the designated red line
• Let it steam for at least 20 minutes
• Turn off and let the vinegar rest in the unit for 15 more minutes until it’s cooled
• After it cools, drain the steamer jar completely and then refill with water
• again let the steamer run for 10 minutes or until the vinegar odour is gone

Question 18

Describe the proper protocol for starting the steamer

Answer 18

• Always fill the steamer with distilled water only. Water must reach the designated redline indicated on the beaker to allow the water to boil. Turn power switch on
• Preheat the steamer before you need it. Turn it on while performing skin analysis. Wait for it to start steaming and then turn on the oh zone if needed
• Check to make sure that the steamer is not too close to the client and that it is also steaming the face evenly
• always steam from the forehead down never from the chin up. Cover sensitive areas with gauze
• if the steamer shut itself off and you can no longer get it to work check the reset button beneath the machine
• turn the steamer off immediately after use

Question 19

At what point do you turn on the ozone feature of the steamer?

Answer 19

When there is a constant flow of steam already coming out of the steamer

Question 20

How long should you be using the steamer treatment for each skin type?

Answer 20

Normal and sensitive – five minutes at medium distance
* Cover sensitive areas with gauze

Dry skin – eight minutes at close distance
Oily skin – 10 minutes at far distance
Combination - eight minutes at medium distance to far distance



Question 21

List the contraindications for steaming

Answer 21

• Asthma
• Extremely vascular complexion
• Acne rosacea
• sunburn
• uncontrolled blood pressure
• most people having a facial expect to have steam used on them, regardless of their skin type or condition. For more sensitive skin you steam for a minimum amount of time.

Question 22

When are extractions performed?

Answer 22

Extractions are performed immediately after the steam, while the skin is still warm.

Extractions can also be performed after photo-evervecent treatment while the skin is relaxed and pores are opened.

Question 23

What are the purpose of extractions?

Answer 23

Proper extraction procedures are necessary to safely extract oil and debris from the follicles

Question 24

Describe the preparation’s for extraction

Answer 24

• Proper washing of the hands
• Cleanse the skin
• Exfoliate the skin
• Prepare the skin using steam or photo-effervescent
• Now the skin is prepared for extractions
• Wear gloves and tissue around index fingers
• wrap them around forefingers ensuring the nails are covered as well [please note, a spa therapist must never have long or painted nails]

Question 25

Proper method for cleaning pimples from the skin:

Answer 25

• Before extracting the debris from a pimple, it is important that the pimple has matured
• When a pimple is ready for cleansing puss will be visible through the skin
• The surface of the pimple will have a yellowish head, often with a crust of dead skin cells forming a cap over the pimple
• The spa therapist must use his or her own judgement in determining if the pimple is ready to be drained
• When in doubt it’s best to leave the pimple alone

Question 26

Name three proper method used for extractions

Answer 26

-gloves – be aware of the pressure as it can rupture the skin causing irritation. The padded area of the fingertip is used to exert pressure on the skin and to lift one extraction at a time so you don’t bruise the tissue

-comedones extractors- Metal tools used open Commadones and sebaceous filaments. To use the tool placed the loop over the lesion so that the lesion is inside. Be aware of the pressure as it can rupture the skin causing irritation

-lancets – are disposable sharp instruments/needles that are necessary to open up closed Comodomes and Milia [certain protocol has to be followed]

Question 27

What should be done to ensure optimal results when performing extractions

Answer 27

Applied pressure on the skin surrounding the follicular wall to extract the impaction with the least amount of trauma to the tissue

Question 28

What should you do to prevent further infection while extracting?

Answer 28

Always disinfect at the end of your extraction process with a cotton pads soaked in toner to prevent infection.

Question 29

Describe electrotherapy

Answer 29

• Electronic facial treatments are commonly referred to as electrotherapy
• Facial stimulator is an instrument that plugs into an ordinary outlet and produces different types of electrical currents that are used for facial and scalp treatments
• An electrode or probe is an applicator for directing the electrical current from the device to the client skin
• Electrodes come in many shapes and I usually made of carbon, glass, or metal

Question 30

Describe the high frequency machine

Answer 30

-The high frequency machine is an apparatus that utilizes an alternating or sinusoidal current, which is a smooth, repetitive alternating current and produces a heat effect.

Question 31

What are the benefits of high frequency

Answer 31

• Stimulate circulation
• Has an anti-septic affect on the skin
• Oxygenates the skin
• Increases cell metabolism
• Helps coagulate and heal any open lesion after extraction by sparking it
• Generates a warm feeling that has a relaxing effect on the skin

Question 32

What are the contraindications of high frequency

Answer 32

• Couperose
• Inflamed areas
• Pregnancy
• Epilepsy
• Pacemakers
• High blood pressure
• Sinus blockage
• Metal implants or body piercing from the waist up
• Has a precaution make sure the client removes all of their metal jewelry. Especially those closest to the face.

Question 33

What are the two forms of electricity?

Answer 33

• Direct current ( D/C)

- alternating current (A/C) (indirect form of current)

Question 34

Describe direct current

Answer 34

-Consistent and even flowing current

• The electrons are travelling in one direction only
• have the ability to produce chemical affects
• Flashlights, cell phones, and cordless electrical clippers used direct current produced by batteries
• A converter is an apparatus that changes the direct current to alternating current

Question 35

Describe alternating current

Answer 35

• A rapid and interrupted current, which flows in one direction and then in the opposite direction.
• It has the ability to produce heat effects, and reverses its direction at regular intervals.
• Hair dryer and curling irons that plug into a wall outlet use alternating current
• A rectifier is an apparatus that changes alternating current to direct current

Question 36

Describe high frequency current

Answer 36

• High frequency machine is a useful and versatile tool
• producing a mild to strong heat affect
• it may be applied after extractions or used over a product

Question 37

Describe the high frequency machine ( continued…)

Answer 37

• The oscillating circuit passes through a device that allows for the selection of a tesla pulse current
• Because high frequency current is capable of changing polarity 1000 times per second, it basically has no polarity and in effect does not produce chemical changes
• The rapid oscillation created by the high frequency machine vibrates water molecules in the skin. This can produce a mile to strong heat affect

Question 38

Describe high frequency electrodes

Answer 38

• During the manufacturing process, most of the air is removed from the electrodes creating a vacuum in the tube
• The air is replaced mainly with neon gas
• However some electrodes may also contain argon gas
• As electricity passes through these gases, they emit visible shades of light
• Neon gas produces a pink, orange or red light
• Argon or rarified gas produces blue or Violet light
• sometimes these lights are in accurately called ultraviolet or infrared because of their colors, but this is not true
• different electrodes have different benefits but all share the same uses listed above

Question 39

What is the proper protocol for the direct method/ effleuvation

Answer 39

-With the flat round electrode, make circular movement on the skin making sure not to lose contact with the skin
-movement is slow and circular
-apply all over the face except the eyes and bridge of the nose
-move down to the left and right side of the neck to the shoulder avoiding the middle of the neck where the thyroid gland is found

Effects include…
-Sedative, decongestion, kills bacteria

Question 40

Describe the proper protocol for the direct sparking method

Answer 40

• The round concave electrode is never in contact with the skin, but he’s held a fraction of an inch away from the skin
• The effects are obtained by tiny flashing Sparks generated between the skin and glass electrode
• several seconds at a time is sufficient do not do it for a length of time
• do not use on broken skin or burning of the upper dermis may occur

Effects include…

• Kills germs and bacteria
• Helps the skin heal faster

Question 41

Describe the proper protocol for indirect sparking method

Answer 41

• Use the long tubular glass electrode with a metallic coil core
• the client remove her rings and ask her to hold the electrode in her hand
• Start at the weakest intensity [level one]. In class we do not go beyond level two
• indirect sparking is done by the hands of the aesthetician with massage manoeuvres on the client skin

Effects include…

• Stimulates
• Tones
• Relaxes
•  good for ageing or loose skin