sources of energy - wave formation Flashcards

1
Q

what is the primary influent on the formation of waves?

A

the sun

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2
Q

when do winds occur?

A

when wind moves across the surface of water

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3
Q

winds move across the surface of the water causing what?

A

frictional drag

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4
Q

what does the frictional drag cause?

A

small ripples and waves

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5
Q

what do small ripples and waves lead to?

A

a circular orbital motion of water particles in the oean

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6
Q

as the seabed becomes shallower towards the coastline what happens to the orbit of water particals?

A

become more elliptical leading to horizontal movement of the waves

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7
Q

when the wave height increases what decreases?

A

the wavelength and wave velocity

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8
Q

as the wave hight increase and wavelength and velocity decreases, what does this cause?

A

water to back up from behind the wave until the wave breaks and surges up the beach

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