Waves Flashcards
What are waves?
Transfers of energy across the oceans.
Despite being 100% efficient in its transfer of energy, why do waves stop?
They collide with land.
How are waves created?
From friction drag of wind in open seas, causing wind turbulence, which then drags up the crests pushes down the trofts.
What is energy transferred between to cause the creation of waves?
Tranfers from atmosphere to the ocean.
At what point in the wave is there high pressure?
In the troughs between waves.
At what point in the wave is there low pressure?
At the wave crest.
What is fetch?
The maximum potential distance a wave can gain energy for.
What three factors affect wave energy/ height of waves?
Wind speed, Wind direction and Fetch.
What is the wavelength?
The distance from crest to crest.
What is the wave height?
The distance from the stillwater level to the wave crest.
What is depth?
The distance between the stillwater and the sea floor.
In what direction do waves travel?
In the direction of the wind.
What is swash?
The movement of water and sediment up a beach.
What is backwash?
The movement of water and sediment away from the beach as a result of a wave.
What is a destructive wave?
A wave with a greater backwash than swash.
