Chpt.6_ Chemistry, Ingredients, and Selection Flashcards
Learning Objectives
Explain how skin care products and ingredients are significant to esthiticians.
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Describe cosmetic regulations, laws, and product safety
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Distinguish cosmetic ingredient sources and popular terms
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Describe the main types of ingredients in cosmetic chemistry.
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Identify beneficial ingredients for skin types and conditions.
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Select appropriate products for facial treatmeants and home care use.
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Recomment home care products with confidence.
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Summerize the pionts to consider when choosing a professional skin care line.
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Case Study
The performance ingredients in products do the actual work of cleansing, normalizing, moisturizing, or otherwise treating skin.
Products are precisely formulated with ingredients to treat dry, normal, combination, and oily skin types.
Esthetician should study and have a thorough understanding of skin care products because it is critical to know basic chemistry of formulations, cosmetic ingredients, benefits, and potential side effects.
Product directly from nature can have powerful skin benefits; however, some of the most effective cosmetic ingredients are not derived from natural sources. Synthetically produced ingredients can be just as effective and may have certain advantages over ingredients derived from nature, such as no use of pesticides or not leaving un ecological footprint.
Significance to Estheticians
Provide clients with appropriate treatments and home care products to achieve their goal of healthy skin, as well as work within the specific laws and regulations that pertain to cosmetics and ingredients.
~ To know basic chemistry of formulations, cosmetics ingredients, benefits, and potential side effects; how to select products and ingredients based on an individual’s needs, skin type, and condition; and products and ingredients to avoid for certain individuals and how to handle adverse reactions.
~ Educate your clients about products and ingredients that you use in a treatment or recommend for their home care use.
~ Able to explain what skin care products and ingredients do, why they’re effective, realistic expectations, and how to properly use products at home.
More knowledge = More confident in your recommendations
Creates long-term relationships with events who depend on you for expert skin care advice.
~ Estheticians must remain on top of the latest ingredient and product technology throughout their entire career. Postgraduate training and education is key to staying up to date and offering the best in products and services.
FDA Regulations for Cosmetics
Food and Drug Administrations (FDA) ~ Responsible for ensuring the safety of our nation’s cosmetics, which includes makeup and skin care products.
Two Important Laws Pertaining to Cosmetics
~ The Federal Food, Drug, and Cosmetic Act (FD&C Act)
~ The Fair Packaging and Labeling Act (FPLA)
The law does not require cosmetic products and ingredients (other than color additives) to have (FDA) approval before they go on the market. No cosmetic may be labeled or advertised with statements suggesting that FDA was approved the product.
FDA does not approve cosmetics before they go on the market. FDA only regulates cosmetics in relation to safety, labeling, and the claims made for a product.
Cosmetic and Drug
The law defines a cosmetic as ~ “ articles intended to be rubbed, poured, sprinkled, or sprayed on, introduced into, or otherwise applied to the human body… for cleansing, beautifying, promoting attractiveness, or altering the appearance,”
Cosmetics are intended to affect the appearance of the skin.
The law defines a drug as ~ “ articles intended for use in the diagnosis, cure, mitigation, treatment, or prevention of disease” and “ articles (other than food) intended to affect the structure or any function of the body of man or other animals.”
Drugs in skin care products are intended to cause actual physiological changes, such as the structure or function of the skin.
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Some nonprescription medicated products have lower doses of active ingredients and meet the definitions of both cosmetics and drugs; these are considered over-the-counter (OTC) drugs.
May happen when a product has two intended uses.
Cosmeceuticals
Term used to describe high quality products or ingredients intended to improve the skin’s health and appearance.
Has no meaning under the law. A product can legally be a drug, a cosmetic, or acombination of both.
Generally refers to professional skin care products and makeup that include pharmaceutical - grade ingredient. This pertains to higher concentrations, grade, and parity of active agents.
Product Labeling Laws and Regulations
Cosmetic companies must list the company’s name, location, or distribution point as well as all the ingredients in the product.
Ingredients must be listed in descending order of predominance, starting with the ingredient having the highest concentration and ending with the ingredient having the lowest concentration.
Ingredients with a concentration of less than 1 percent may be listed in any order.
A fragrance must be listed as fragrance, but the particular ingredients used for the fragrance need not be listed.
INCI Names
All cosmetics labels include a list of ingredients using standardized INCI names for each ingredient. INCI is an acronym for International Nomenclature Cosmetic Ingredient. INCI names are allocated by the American Cosmetic Association, Personal Care Products Council and are used internationally. Ensures that cosmetic ingredients are consistently listed, using the same ingredient name from product to product.
Product Safety
Avoid allowing products and their containers to become dirty, outdated, rancid, or stale as these conditions can lead to adverse reactions.
Products stored in dark containers and in cooler temperatures will last longer.
Close containers when not in use.
Always follow strict cleaning procedures and the product manufacturer’s instructions for use and storage.
Cosmetics must not be misbranded.
Adverse Reactions
Many ingredients used in skin care products and treatments may cause adverse skin reactions. Fragrances and some preservatives and chemical sunscreen ingredients are among the most common allergens.
How to handle:
Skin becomes excessively red or the client complains of burning, immediately remove the product, rinse the skin with cold water, and apply cool compresses until the skin calms.
Have products to calm skin reactions “ recommended precaution”
If client has an allergic reaction to a product that requires medical treatment the manufacturer of the product is responsible. Unless product was purchased in bulk.
If clients contact you regarding un adverse reaction from home care product you recommended, advise them to discontinue use of product immediately.
Cosmetic Ingredient Sources
Natural sources - including plants, vitamins, or animals.
Synthetic - created in a lab using chemical compounds.
Natural versus synthetic ingredients
Synthetically produced ingredients can be just effective and may have certain advantages over ingredients derived from nature, such as no use of pesticides or not leaving an ecological footprint.
Products directly from nature can have powerful skin benefits; however some of the most effective cosmetic ingredients are not derived from natural sources
Popular terms
Natural & All Natural- derived from natural sources.
Organic- describes natural-sourced ingredients that are grown without the use of pesticides or chemicals.
Cruelty-Free- term used to describe products that are not tested on animals at any stage of the production processs; nor was tested on animals.
Vegan- does not contain any animal ingredients or animal by products.
Gluten-Free- product containing less than 20 parts per million of the proteins found in wheat and rye.
Hypoallergenic- less likely to cause allergic reactions.
Noncomedogenic- does not dog pores.
Comedogenic- forms blackheads.
Fragrance free- no ingredients added to provide a fragrance.
Unscented- formulated to have no smell.
Functional Ingredients
Allow the products to spread, give them body and texture, and give them a specific from such as a lotion, cream, or gel. Preservatives.
Do not affect the appearance of the skin but are necessary to the product formulation.
Can act as vehicles that allow products to spread, give products body and texture, and give products a specific form such as a lotion, cream, or gel.
Functional Ingredients:
Water
Emollients
Surfactants
Delivery Systems
Preservatives
Fragrances
Color Agents
Thickeners
pH Adjusters
Solvents
Performance Ingredients
Ingredients in cosmetic products that cause the actual changes in the appearance of the skin.
Cause the actual changes in the appearance of the skin.
Sometimes referred to as active agents— or erroneously called active ingredients.
Active ingredients is an official term used in the drug industry to indicate ingredients that chemically cause physiological changes.
Examples include ingredients that moisturize, exfoliate, or smooth the skin’s surface.
