Enquiry Question 2 - Key Idea 1 Flashcards

Different wave types influence beach morphology and beach sediment profiles, which vary at a variety of temporal scales from short term to longer term.

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1
Q

What is Enquiry Question 2?

A

Marine erosion creates distinctive coastal landforms and contributes to local landscape.

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2
Q

What is Key idea 1?

A

Different wave types influence beach morphology and beach sediment profiles, which vary at a variety of temporal scales from short term to longer term.

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3
Q

How are waves created?

A

Friction between the wind and surface of the water generates circular movements of energy

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4
Q

What happens when a wave approaches the shore:

A

The bottom of the wave experiences friction with the sea bed, - causing it to slow down, faster than the wave crest - movement becomes eliptical - causes waves to break - forming breakers.

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5
Q

What impacts the strength of a wave?

A
  • windspeed/strength
  • the fetch
  • the duration of wind
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6
Q

Fetch:

A

Distance the wave travels in open water

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7
Q

Swell waves:

A

Waves continue after wind stops - they have a long time to lose energy

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8
Q

Constructive waves:

A
  • low energy waves
  • low, flat wave height
  • long wavelength
  • low wave frequency
  • strong swash, pushing sediment up the beach, but weak backwash, so more deposition
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9
Q

Destructive waves:

A
  • high energy waves
  • large wave height
  • short wavelength
  • high wave frequency
  • little energy lost through friction, strong backwash carrying material away from the beach
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10
Q

Beach morphology:

A

shape of a beach including its width and shape and any microfeatures (beach profile)

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11
Q

Sediment profile:

A

the pattern of distrubution of different sized or shaped deposited material

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12
Q

Offshore bar:

A

destructive waves, backwash removes sediment off the beach. As the backwash loses energy, deposition occurs in the offshore/nearshore region. once the ridge exists, it creates more friction with backwasg, leading to more deposition and therefore larger offshore bars

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13
Q

Swash aligned beach:

A

when beaches/ coastlines are shelted means waves run parrallel to the beach and are swash aligned. waves travell parallel to the coastline - organised horizontally

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14
Q

Drift aligned beach:

A

beaches affected by longshore-drift swash is aligned to the direction of prevailing wind.

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15
Q
A
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