5 Socio-economic influences and trends Flashcards
Historical influences
Socio-economic influences (1900-1910)
There was a strong class divide with strict codes of etiquette, where the upper class displayed their extravagant lifestyle through wealth.
There was greater electricity provision and motor transport developments.
There was limited success in the emancipation of women and they were not expected to work, but more were being educated and participating in sport.
Trends (1900-1910)
The upper and middle class were very fashion conscious, with luxurious and extravagant styles and women wore several outfits a day. Fashion was highly ornate and featured delicate fabrics, tight corsets (S-bend silhouette), long trailing skirts and large hats and gloves. Children were dressed in miniature versions.
Lower/poorer classes were shabbily dressed, wore what they could get and children often wore no shoes.
Paul Poiret was an influential designer during this time.
Socio-economic influences (1910-1920)
An era of social/political change where class distinction through dress was less obvious.
All classes of women adopted more practical styles and more opportunities were provided for women as men were at war, many of them joining armed forces or war-related work.
WW1 had a major influence on fashion and after the war, the rich/fashion conscious indulged in a sophisticated high life.
Trends (1910-1920)
Paul Poiret inspired many styles.
Styles were better suited to an active and younger generation. Children wore less formal and easier fitting clothes, with fewer fashion for boys as most were still in uniform until their later teens.
Between 1912-1914, radical changes in silhouette of women’s clothing was considered shocking and dresses were more loose-fitting with shorter hemlines, reflecting the energetic dances of the period.
Socio-economic influences (1920-1930)
A period of looser morals for the middle and upper classes, being influenced by entertainment media and social changes from WW1 were spreading to working classes.
Most women were expected to return to their pre-war roles, but a shortage of men allowed them to move away from the pre-war domestic service and move into new jobs in developing industries.
Leisure pursuits grew in popularity (e.g. foreign travel/sportswear) and women’s drive for emancipation gained momentum; by 1928, women over 21 were allowed to vote.
Trends (1920-1930)
The main style was the chemise line dress, inspired by Egyptian, Chinese and Far Eastern motifs. The androgynous look also came about, featuring short hairstyles, cloche hats, shawls, low-heeled shoes and silk stockings.
The simple shapes of garments meant that women could make their own dresses.
Well-dressed women had simple, underrated styles while the poor looked shabby and wore cheap fabrics. The participation of women in sports allowed for more casual styles and men’s attitudes moved away from formal clothing.
Socio-economic influences (1930-1940)
A period of severe worldwide economic depression, meaning that little money was available for new clothes and styles resulting in various classes becoming more unified in the way they dressed. Women became more skilled at dress-making/altering/knitting, while the wealthy bought clothes from couture houses.
The economic situation slowly improved throughout the second half of the decade.
The quality of mass produced garments continued to improve and American-style department stores selling affordable ready-made clothes became popular, while simplified versions of original designs were manufactured and sold cheaply.
The way people dressed, including royalty, was greatly influenced by radio cinema celebrities (e.g. Greta Garbo/Marlene Dietrich).
Trends (1930-1940)
Children wore clothes that were simpler and easier-fitting while young men wore more athletic looks. Fashion conscious women were moving back to the hourglass shape of the Edwardian Era.
Trending clothes through this period include: beach pyjamas, cruise wear shorts and bare-backed dresses.
This period also featured wide shoulders (military look), fur trims, dresses made of silk and different grades of rayon, lingerie including lighter corsets and suspenders, floor-length gowns being re-introduced for evening wear and skirts stayed short, making them practical for daytime.
Madeleine Vionnet popularised the bias cut.
Socio-economic influences (1940-1950)
WW2 affected daily lives more severely than WW1, removing many class divisions.
Clothes/fabrics were rationed from 1941-1949, with the government launching the ‘Make Do and Mend’ campaign, encouraging people to repair/reuse their existing garments.
The regulations concerning ‘utility’ garments also led to a limited range of clothing available.
There was a huge need for mass-produced and affordable clothing, which revolutionised the industry and new synthetics were developed.
This period also saw more women in uniforms, as volunteers worked in male occupations while men were at war.
Trends (1940-1950)
Girls wore pedal pushers as many cycled and women took great care of their clothes (rationing).
Wartime fashion included siren suits and practical clothing. The female body profile was plain and square and menswear was influenced by American fashions, featuring trilby hats, well-padded shoulders and wide, straight trousers.
Dior’s feminine ‘New Look’ appeared in 1947, which created controversy due to its generous use of material.
Socio-economic influences (1950-1960)
The aftermath of WW2 saw the reconstruction of the industry, with improvements in living standards and high levels of employment.
Women returned to pre-war status and the early 1950s featured mature and elegant women.
The mid-1950s saw the rise of mass media in film, radio and machines as the youth adopted crazes which changed the shape of fashion for the rest of the 20th century. There was an ever growing market for modern clothes and anti-establishment attitudes and rock and roll (Elvis Presley) became popular.
Synthetics were more widely used in the late 1950s.
Trends (1950-1960)
In the early 1950s, women’s fashion was figure flattering, influenced by Dior and Balmain. Lingerie was greatly modified, creating a well-defined figure.
Tartan and twill trousers were a staple leisure garment between women (tailored clothes) and men’s fashion was inspired by British tailoring (the Edwardian look). The ‘Teddy Boy’ look also evolved in young working class males.
Leather motorbike jackets, along with t-shirts, denim jeans and boots became a popular look. The Beatnik style emerged between girls, including skin-tight jeans, sloppy Joe pullovers, short dark skirts and heavy makeup.
Socio-economic influences (1960-1970)
This period saw a rapid development in science, tech and space travel, leading to new fabrics and materials introduced.
Opportunities for employment grew in service sectors, which made it easier for married women to gain work. Major social changes also occurred, with more girls continuing into further education, the contraceptive pill being introduced and abortion laws being reformed.
Increased leisure time influenced clothing styles and style held more significance than the quality of garments. Andre Courreges and Pierre Cardin led the way in daring new designs for young fashion.
Post war baby boomers became teens and new styles of pop music and colour photography in magazines had a big impact on teen/young fashion. Young people also moved away from materialism, leading to them buying second-hand, as a reaction against cheap and mass-produced clothing.
Trends (1960-1970)
There was a big difference in appearance from the early to late 1960s. Models Jean Shrimpton and Twiggy epitomised fashion and new designers, such as Mary Quant, focused on the younger generation.
Easy-to-match separates and informal shapes became popular along with trousers and trouser suits and skirts got shorter throughout the decade. Women’s dress was either boyishly sporty or dolly-girl style, while men’s fashion changed radically throughout the decade (The Mods).
The romantic look of 1967/68 popularised velvet fabrics/frills/ruffles on shirts and blouses. Tights replaced stockings and heavy and low-heeled shows were worn. Leather, PVC, easy-care fabrics, synthetics, Crimplene, Trevira and waterproof nylon were popular materials and the hippie movement saw the appearance of Afghan jackets, unisex fashion and floor-length kaftans.
Socio-economic influences (1970-1980)
The early 1970s was prosperous with a thriving consumer society, but high inflation after 1973 caused recession in world trade, leading to an industrial unrest in the UK resulting to the 3-day week to conserve resources.
Rapid expansion in the fashion market created greater competition and manufacturers cut costs by outsourcing production to developing countries in order to obtain cheaper labour. Manufacturers with unsold stock went out of business.
Designers could no longer dictate fashion and women decided what they liked themselves (e.g. calf-length skirts). 1976 saw the rise of punk, a new youth culture, which was a reaction to commercialism and unemployment.
