1.5 Complex yarns

Question 1

Simple yarn:

Answer 1

A yarn that is relatively smooth, even in diameter, and has a constant number of turns throughout its length

Question 2

Complex (fancy or novelty) yarn:

Answer 2

A yarn that is uneven in size, varied in colour, or modified in appearance by the pres- ence of irregularities deliberately introduced during manufacture

Question 3

Simple yarns elaborate

Answer 3

Simple yarns, even in size, have the same number of turns per centimetre throughout and are relatively smooth. A simple ply yarn has two or more simple single yarns twisted together. Do not confuse a simple yarn with a single yarn. A single yarn is the product of the first twisting operation. A ply yarn is made by a second twisting operation that combines two or more singles. Simple yarns result in smooth fabrics, which are usually more durable than fabrics woven or knitted from complex yarns.

Question 4

Complex yarns elaborate

Answer 4

Complex yarns (also called novelty or fancy yarns) are uneven in size or colour or are modified in appearance by the deliberate introduction of irregularities during manufacture. They have been described as yarns that are irregular at regular intervals. Complex yarns can be single or ply. Complex ply yarns usually consist of a base or core, an effect (the decorative yarn that gives it its particular appearance) and a tie or binder yarn that ties the effect to the core.

Question 5

1.5.2 Types of complex yarns
Slub yarns

14

Answer 5

A slub yarn is usually a single complex yarn. Slub yarns have soft, untwisted areas at frequent intervals throughout their length. They are found in fabrics such as shantung and some linens.

Question 6

Flock yarns

Answer 6

Flock yarns, also called flake yarns, are single yarns in which small tufts of fibre are inserted at intervals. These tufts are held in place by the twist of the base yarn and are easily pulled loose.

Question 7

Bouclé yarns

Answer 7

In bouclé yarns, the effect yarn forms irregular loops around a base yarn. Some other yarn binds the effect yarn to the base.

Question 8

Loop yarns

Answer 8

Loop yarns are similar to bouclé yarns but the loops are more predominant and less evenly spaced.

Question 9

Ratiné and gimp yarns

Answer 9

Ratiné yarns are similar to bouclé and loop yarns but the loops are very close together. In everyday language, we normally do not distinguish between bouclé, loop and ratiné yarns, but refer to them all as bouclé yarns.

Question 10

Nub, knot, spot, seed and splash yarns

Answer 10

Some textbooks differentiate between nub, knot, spot, seed and splash yarns but for the purposes of this course we can group them all together. These are ply yarns made on special machines that hold the base yarn almost stationary while the effect yarn is wrapped around it several times to build up an enlarged bump or ”nub”.

Question 11

Spiral or corkscrew yarns

Answer 11

Both these yarns are made from two plies that differ in colour, twist or thickness. A spiral yarn consists of a coarse, loosely twisted yarn wrapped around a fine yarn, whereas wrap- ping a fine yarn loosely around a coarse yarn produces a corkscrew yarn.

Question 12

Grandelle yarns

Answer 12

Grandelle yarns are produced by twisting together two single-ply yarns that contrast in colour.

Question 13

Chenille yarn

Answer 13

The word “chenille” comes from the French where it means caterpillar. A chenille yarn looks like a long, hairy worm. This yarn requires an additional manufacturing process. A special type of fabric is first woven. This fabric is then cut into strips. These strips have a soft pile on all sides. Chenille yarn is used in the weaving of chenille rugs. From time to time, it is also available as a hand-knitting or even machine-knitting yarn.

Question 14

Thick and thin yarns

Answer 14

These yarns look the same as slub yarns, but where slub yarns are made from staple fibres, thick and thin yarns are produced from continuous filaments. While the filaments are extruded from the spinnerets, the force on it is varied, resulting in a yarn that is thick in some places and thin in others.

Question 15

Core-spun and fasciated yarns

Answer 15

Core-spun yarns have a central core which is completely encased in other fibres. The core and wrapping fibre may be of the same type or different. For example, the ”elastic” in socks is a core-spun yarn. The spandex filament core is wrapped in cotton or nylon. The yarn is highly elastic and stretchable but because of the encasing yarns, it has the appearance and properties of a normal spun yarn. In fasciated yarns, the core comprises staple fibres that are wrapped with filament fibres. The staple fibres are not twisted or spun, but bundled together instead. These yarns can be made rapidly and are generally stronger and more even than ring-spun yarns.