2.4 Other fabric construction processes

Question 1

Bonded fabrics:

Answer 1

Two or more layers of fabric held securely together with an adhesive

Question 2

Braided fabrics:

Answer 2

A narrow textile, with selvages or sealed edges, that is formed by plaiting several strands of yarn or strips of fabric

Question 3

Embroidery:

Answer 3

Ornamentation, on an already existing fabric, with needlework composed of yarn, thread or floss

Question 4

Lace:

Answer 4

An openwork cloth with its design formed by a network of threads

Question 5

Laminated fabric:

Answer 5

A multicomponent fabric composed of one or more layers of fabric joined with an adhesive or foam; alternatively, a foam-backed fabric

Question 6

Multicomponent fabric:

Answer 6

A fabric in which two or more layers of material or fabric have been combined by means adhesives, thread stitches, thermoplastic bonding agents or ultrasonic energy

Question 7

Narrow fabric:

Answer 7

A fabric less than 300 mm in width, made by braiding, knitting, weaving or any other fabric-forming technique and with a selvage on both sides

Question 8

Net:

Answer 8

An open-mesh, structured fabric in which yarns, cord or wire are knotted to provide shape, form and design

Question 9

Quilted fabric:

Answer 9

Two or more layers of fabric joined by stitching or ultrasonic bonding

Question 10

Stitch-bonded fabric:

Answer 10

A fabric in which fibres or yarns are held together by stitching with some type of thread or yarn

Question 11

Tufting:

Answer 11

The manufacture of pile fabrics by inserting loops of yarn through a base fabric

Question 12

Tulle:

Answer 12

A very fine, lightweight net made with softer yarns than ordinary net, often used for bridal veils

Question 13

Bonded and laminated fabrics

Answer 13

There are three basic ways of laminating. In foam bonding, polyurethane foam is used to bond two pieces of fabric together. A thick layer of foam contributes to the warmth and thickness of the textile. The second method involves sticking an appropriate thickness of foam to the back of a fabric (foam-backed fabric). The third method involves the use of an adhesive to join the layers of fabric. These fabrics are also known as bonded fabrics. Breathable, lightweight, waterproof fabrics can be made by laminating a membrane to a face fabric, using an adhesive. A woven fabric is often laminated to the inner side of the membrane. These multicomponent fabrics are used for all weather clothing.
When buying bonded or laminated fabrics, the consumer should make sure that the fab- ric layers are sealed together firmly and that the grain lines (where applicable) coincide. Particularly in the case of foam-backed fabrics, the foam is sometimes used to disguise the poor quality of cheap, inferior fabrics.

Question 14

Quilted fabrics

Answer 14

A quilted fabric consists of two or more layers of fabric joined by stitching. Traditionally, quilted fabrics consisted of three layers: the facefabric (called the top) that was often pieced (patches of fabric sewn together); the battingor wadding in the centre (nowadays a polyester-bonded fibre fabric, but traditionally a wadding of cotton or woollen fibres); and a backingfabric. The layers can be joined by hand stitching, by knotting a piece of thread or string through all the layers or by machine stitching. Today quilted products can also be produced by chemical quilting or ultrasonic bonding.

Question 15

2.4.2 Narrow fabrics Woven narrow fabrics

Answer 15

Woven narrow fabrics

Braided fabrics

Question 16

Woven narrow fabrics

Answer 16

Woven narrow fabrics include end products such as seat belts, industrial webbing, belting, binding, ribbons and tapes such as the tapes used in zippers, as well as woven labels with the manufacturer’s name, size or care instructions for garments.

Question 17

Braided fabrics

Answer 17

Braids are not manufactured on a weaving loom with a definite warp and weft, but consist of three or more yarns plaited together. Braids can be flat or circular. Braids have many industrial uses, but the end products we are most likely to be familiar with include shoelaces, insulation for electric wires, parachute cords and decorative trims.

Question 18

2.4.3 Open-mesh constructions Net

Answer 18

Nets
Lace
Embroidery

Question 19

Nets

Answer 19

Nets are open-mesh fabrics, originally made by knotting the yarn at each point of inter- section. Today most nets are made on tricot or raschel knitting machines. Tulle is a type of fine net, often used in bridal veiling.

Question 20

Lace

Answer 20

Lace can be described as an openwork fabric consisting of a network of yarns formed into intricate designs. Lace fabrics dating back to 2 500 BC have been found. The first lace-making machine was built in 1808 by John Heathcote. The first Leavers machine was built in 1813, and in 1837, the Leavers brothers improved their machine by incorporating the Jacquard loom principle.
Basically the Leavers lace-making machine used today remains the same as it was in 1837. It is the most complicated piece of textile equipment in the world. Owing to the high cost of producing lace on these machines, however, a relatively high proportion of laces are made on raschel knitting machines.

Question 21

Embroidery

Answer 21

Embroidery consists of the application of yarn or thread to produce a design on an existing fabric. The Schiffli embroidery machine was developed in the mid-1800s. Embroidery that resembles lace can also be manufactured by embroidering a special fabric that dissolves easily in water or other chemicals. The base fabric is dissolved leaving only the embroidered pattern behind.

Question 22

2.4.4 Stitch-bonded fabrics

Answer 22

Stitch-bonded fabrics are also known as sew-knit or stitch-through fabrics. Basically they consist of a layer of warp yarns placed over a layer of weft yarns (not interlaced) held together with an additional yarn forming interlocking chain stitches. Owing to the speed with which stitch-bonded fabrics can be produced, it is an economical way of constructing fabric. Examples of stitch-bonded fabrics are malimo, a flat fabric, and malipol, a pile fabric.

Question 23

2.4.5 Tufted fabrics

Answer 23

Tufting is a process of making pile fabrics by punching extra yarns into an already woven fabric. The pile can be cut or left uncut. The back of the base fabric can be coated with latex to hold the tufts in position. Ninety per cent of all carpets produced today are made by the tufting process.