Coastal process

Question 1

The factors the size and energy of a wave depends on

Answer 1

The fetch
The strength of wind
How long the wind has been blowing for

Question 2

What is the fetch?

Answer 2

How far the wave has travelled

Question 3

What are the 2 types of waves?

Answer 3

Constructive and destructive

Question 4

What is the swash?

Answer 4

The movement of water up the beach

Question 5

What is the backwash?

Answer 5

The movement of water up the beach

Question 6

Properties of a destructive wave

Answer 6

High wave in proportion to length
Tall breaker; breaks downward ms with great force
Strong backwash
Weak swash
strong backwash removes sediment off beach
Waves are steep and close together

Question 7

Characteristics of a constructive waves

Answer 7

Strong swash and weak backwash
Strong swash bring sediments to build up the beach
Backwash is not strong enough to remove sediment
Waves are low and further apart

Question 8

What are the 3 types of weathering?

Answer 8

Mechanical
Biological
Chemical

Question 9

Mechanical weathering

Answer 9

Freeze-thaw
Occurs when rocks are porous or permeable
1. Water enters crack
2. When temperature drops, water freezes, crack widens
3.Ice melts and water gets deep
4. Freezes and expands, repeats till rock splits

Question 10

Biological weathering

Answer 10

Plant and animal
roots get into small cracks, as they grow, cracks grow
Rock breaks off

Question 11

Chemical weathering

Answer 11

Rain and sea water can be weak acid

Dissolved soft rock like limestone or chalk

Question 12

4 types of mass movement

Answer 12

Rockfall
Mudflow
Landslide
Rotational slip

Question 13

Define rockfall

Answer 13

bits of rock fall off the cliff face, usually due to freeze thaw

Question 14

Define mudflow

Answer 14

Saturated soil flows down a slope

Question 15

Define landslide

Answer 15

large blocks of rock slide downhill

Question 16

Define rotational slip

Answer 16

Saturated soil slumps down curved surface

Question 17

4 types of erosion

Answer 17

Hydraulic action
Abrasion
Attrition
Solution

Question 18

Define Hydraulic action

Answer 18

sheer power of waves as they smash against cliff. Air becomes trapped in cracks in rock and cause rock to break

Question 19

Define abrasion

Answer 19

pebbles grind along rock platform like sandpaper, rock becomes smooth

Question 20

Define attrition

Answer 20

when rocks in sea knock against eachother , become smaller and rounded

Question 21

Define solution

Answer 21

when sea water dissolved certain types of rocks, Uk- chalk and limestone

Question 22

Define erosion and what waves are responsible for it

Answer 22

Wearing away do rocks

Destructive waves

Question 23

4 types of transportation

Answer 23

Solution
Suspension
Saltation
Traction

Question 24

Define solution

Answer 24

when minerals like limestone and chalk are dissolved in sea water and then carried in solution. Not visible

Question 25

Define suspension

Answer 25

Small particles such as silts and clays are suspended in flow of water

Question 26

Define saltation

Answer 26

small pieces of shingle or large sand grains are bounced along sea bed

Question 27

Define traction

Answer 27

Where pebbles and larger material are rolled along sea bed

Question 28

Define longshore drift

Answer 28

waves approach coast an an angle because of the direction of prevailing wind. Swash will carry material towards beach at an angle. Backwash then flows back to the sea, down the slope of the beach. Zigzag

Question 29

Define deposition

Answer 29

When sea loses energy, drops material is has been carrying.

Constructive waves

Question 30

Factors leading to deposition

Answer 30

Waves starting to slow down and lose energy
Shallow water
Sheltered areas, eg bays
Little or no wind