Raw Materials Flashcards

1
Q

State the 4 origins of raw materials.

A
  • Animal
  • Vegetal
  • Chemical Process
  • Mineral
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2
Q

Describe an excipient. What are 2 categories?

A

An excipient is the base in which active ingredients are added to be more readily absorbable by the skin.

The 2 categories of excipients are:

  • Gels
  • Emulsions
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3
Q

What are the 2 categories of emulsions and what skin types are they best suited for?

A
  • Water in oil emulsions - would be used on a client who is lacking oils and is therefore very dry.
  • Oil in water emulsions - best suited for a client who is already producing too much oil and so the emulsion is not adding to the problem.
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4
Q

Describe an emulsifier.

A

Emulsifiers are ingredients that keep oil and water solutions mixed well.

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5
Q

List manufacturers guidelines.

A
  • Elimination of materials containing led, arsenic, mercury, etc - i.e. toxic materials.
  • The material must not irritate the skin surface.
  • It should not give rise to allergic reaction during the experiments preceding the final perfecting of a product, nor widely known to be an allergen. Manufacturers have a list of known allergens.
  • It should not be a potential carcinogen (in the long run).
  • It should not be acanthotic (Acanthosis is a “dermatosis” characterized by a hypertrophy of the Malpighi prickle cell.) It produces a considerable thickening of healthy skin.
  • It’s colour should be attractive to look at for sales ability on the shelf.
  • It should not spoil, nor cause any deterioration, putrefaction or mould once the product is on the market, before the expiry date.
  • It should not have an unpleasant smell. The selection of raw material is therefore particularly tricky.
  • It should be free of bacteria at the time of retail.
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6
Q

Why does an esthetician study raw materials?

A

They have to know what their products are made of and what their action will be and why they act in such a way. Therefore an esthetician must have an idea of the methods of manufacturing, and know the properties of the raw material that enter into the composition of these products, The esthetician should know what they look like, and when and how they should be used.

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7
Q

Describe a surfactant.

A

Surfactants are ingredients in cosmetics that allow the cosmetic to be able to slip across or onto your skin. They are one of the biggest categories of cosmetic ingredients. Surfactants also include foaming agents in detergents and soaps used for cleansing. They break up oils and fats and other debris and help it to separate from the skin.

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8
Q

Describe liposomes.

A

Liposomes are hollow spheres made of phospholipids. (Like a balloon made up of lipids or fats). The liposome may be loaded or implanted with a nutrient. As the liposome penetrates the skin it eventually will dissolve and release the nutrient inside to carry out its function.

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9
Q

Describe humectants and give examples.

A

Humectants are water-binding agents that are hydrophilic or water loving.

Examples of humectants are:

  • Urea
  • Phospholipids
  • Alpha hydroxy acids
  • Sodium PCA.
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10
Q

Describe polymers.

A

Polymers are part of the encapsulated concept like the liposome, used for the controlled release effect. Polymers improve the delivery of nutrients and skin protection and the duration of moisturizers.

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11
Q

Do paraben preservatives need to be used to keep products stable? Explain your answer.

A

No, they aren’t required. A lot of skin care products are moving to more natural/beneficial preservatives that are dual purpose in the sense that they keep the product stable and preserved but they are also beneficial for the skin as well. An example would be urea.

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12
Q

Describe free radicals.

A

Oxygen atoms that are unstable because they have lost an electron in their outer orbit. Attracted to fats or lipids which have extra electrons available to stabilize these oxygen atoms. Because the cell membrane is made of lipids free radicals are attracted to them and when enough free radicals attach themselves to the cell membrane they reduce its permeability.

  • Proteins, fats, carbohydrates and oxygen cannot get into the cell.
  • Waste toxins and carbon dioxide cannot get out of the cell
  • Therefore the cell will die.
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13
Q

Free radicals occur naturally in the body, but can also be contributed by other factors. What are they?

A
  • Sun exposure.
  • Smoking
  • Alcohol
  • Pollutants
  • Stress
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14
Q

How do antioxidants help free radicals? Give examples.

A

Antioxidants work to supply electrons to the atom when they need to be stabilized.

Some common antioxidants used in skin care ingredients are:

  • Tocopherol - Vitamin A
  • Retinal Palmitate - Vitamin E
  • Ascorbic Acid - Vitamin C
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15
Q

Peptides are the main component of ________.

A

Protein

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16
Q

What is the main benefit of alginates?

A

They are extracted from seaweed, and very popular with beauty masks and fat-reducing products designed for the throat and body. They normalize the skin moisture content and provide suppleness to the epidermis.

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17
Q

Azulene is commonly used for ____________ skin types.

A

Irritated and sensitive skin types.

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18
Q

Camphor may be made from turpentine. T or F.

A

True

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19
Q

List 3 preservatives that also benefit the skin in a positive way.

A

Magnesium Chloride - used in creams and tonics and helps to refine the skin.
Sodium Chloride - used to treat inflamed lesions.
Urea - increases absorption of other active ingredients, relieves itchiness and helps leave the skin feeling soft and supple.

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20
Q

Beeswax has ___________, _____________ and ___________ properties.

A

Germicidal, skin softening and elasticity enhancing properties.

It is also anti-inflammatory, antioxidant and antibactericidal.

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21
Q

Tissular extracts are from animal origin. T or F.

A

True

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22
Q

What is the source of royal jelly?

A

The food produced by the front salivation glands of the worker bees for the nourishment of the queen bee.

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23
Q

Royal jelly is rejuvenating. T or F.

A

True

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24
Q

Mineral oil is an excellent excipient. T or F.

A

False - it is a surface product because it does not penetrate the epidermis due to its large molecular structure.

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25
Q

Explain the benefit of salicylic acid, and the disadvantage to its use.

A

It helps to dissolve the top layer of the corneum and improves the look and feel of skin. Also acts as an antiseptic, because of this it is widely used in acne soaps and lotions. In high concentrations it can be absorbed through the skin and may cause skin redness and rashes.

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26
Q

_______ & ________ are used for physical protection against UVA & UVB.

A
  • Zinc Oxide

- Titanium Dioxide

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27
Q

Hydroquinone is used in ___________ creams.

A

Bleaching

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28
Q

Menthol has a mild _________ effect on the skin.

A
  • Analgesic

- It is also an antiseptic.

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29
Q

Witch hazel is used as a topical treatment for _______ skin conditions.

A
  • Skin irritations
  • Insect bites
  • Bruises
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30
Q

Arnica extract is used for _____ skin conditions.

A
  • Couperose condition

- Acne condition

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31
Q

What is the primary role of ceramides?

A

The primary role of ceramides as intercellular lipids is to bind cells together.

32
Q

Co-enzyme Q10 boosts the __________ of the cells and reinforces the natural defence mechanism.

A
  • Energetic metabolism
33
Q

Aloe extract is excellent for sensitive skin and treatment for __________.

A
  • Sunburns
  • Insect bites
  • Skin irritations.
34
Q

Urea has a __________ action as well as it relieves ________ and leaves the skin soft and supple.

A

Urea has a desquamation action as well as it relieves itchiness and leaves the skin soft and supple.

35
Q

Explain permuted water.

A

Water that is partially demineralized by means of special silicate called zeolite. It is used to prepare cosmetics; tap water is not used because of its high salt content and possible presence of chemicals.

36
Q

Explain distilled water.

A

Distilled water is the distillate obtained by boiling ordinary water in an alembic and by condensing its vapour by means of a refrigerant. This product is free from all minerals. It is often used in cosmetics.

37
Q

Define hydrolytes.

A

Plant distilled waters obtained by the distillation of plants, leaves, berries, and roots.

38
Q

Define hyaluronic acid.

A

A great humectant that can hold 400 to 2000 times its own weight in water. Used in creams, toners, and injectable fillers. Found naturally in the skin. It was initially obtained from the roosters comb but is now developed by non-animal means.

39
Q

List the benefit of probiotics.

A

Promote a positive bacterial balance in the skin and may improve skin prone to acne, rosacea and eczema. Helps to maintain the acid mantle.

40
Q

List the benefits of coconut oil. Would you recommend your client to use coconut oil as their moisturizer?

A

Coconut oil has antibacterial and antifungal properties. But I wouldn’t recommend my client use coconut oil in their moisturizer because it is also comedogenic and can lead to clogged pores and potentially inflamed cystic lesions.

41
Q

What are peptides?

A

Short chains of amino acids, they are the main components of protein.

42
Q

Why is collagen very popular in skin care formulations an where is it found?

A

Collagen is a protein found in animal connective tissue. It is very popular in skin care formulations for its great hydration potential and its ability to bind and retain many times its weight in water.

43
Q

What is alcohol in cosmetics used as and why? What kind of products is it found in?

A

An antiseptic and solvent given its grease dissolving abilities (sebum).

Found in:

  • Concentrations in toners for acne skin
  • After shave lotions
  • Perfumes
  • Suntan lotions
44
Q

Where is cetyl alcohol found?

A
  • Palm oil
  • Spermaceti
  • Produced synthetically
45
Q

What is cetyl alcohol and what is it used for?

A

A greasy waxy solid, greatly used as an excipient, emulsifier and thickener.

46
Q

What is allantoin?

A

A botanical extract that is healing and soothing. It is appropriate for sensitive irritated and acne skins.

47
Q

What properties does azulene have?

A
  • Anti-allergic
  • Soothing
  • Healing
48
Q

What do bentonite and kaolin help the cleansing of?

A

The cutaneous pore.

49
Q

What does vitamin A palmitate increase?

A

It is an antioxidant that helps increase collagen, DNA, skin thickness and elasticity - it is very rejuvenating.

50
Q

What does topically applied vitamin C inhibit?

A

UVA and UVB induced damage.

51
Q

What does vitamin C help the body fortify against? How?

A

Infectious conditions by strengthening the immune system.

52
Q

What is the benefit of vitamin E in skin care products?

A

It has a preservative function due to its ability to protect against oxidation. This benefits not only the skin but also the product in terms of longevity. Vitamin E also has anti-inflammatory properties.

53
Q

What kind (origin) of hormones may be used in skin care products?

A

Vegetal only.

54
Q

What do enzymes promote?

A

The breakdown of dead skin cells - used mostly in peels.

55
Q

How are oligo elements such as zinc, copper, manganese, iron, boron, and cobalt beneficial?

A
  • Highly nutritive

- Help ensure normal cell metabolism.

56
Q

What properties does camphor have?

A
  • Anaesthetic
  • Anti-inflammatory
  • Antiseptic
  • Astringent
  • Cooling
  • Refreshing
57
Q

What is sodium PCA?

A

A high performance humectant.

58
Q

What does sea salt have a very high content of?

A

Mineral content

59
Q

What properties does green tea have?

A
  • Antioxidant

- Anti-inflammatory

60
Q

Roobios contains 50 times more antioxidants than green tea. True or False.

A

True.

61
Q

Where are essential oils found?

A

They penetrate into the dermis and can be found in the blood stream.

62
Q

Why do essential oils work with the endocrine system?

A

Because they contain plant hormones.

63
Q

Why are tissular extracts used in skin care? and what are some ingredient examples of tissular extracts?

A
- Used for their rejuvenation ability. 
Examples 
- Placenta
- Embryo
- Connective tissue extract.
64
Q

What is glycerin or glycerol?

A
  • A humectant used in moisturizers

- In high concentrations it may be comedogenic

65
Q

What is royal jelly a mixture of?

A
  • Protein
  • Fats
  • Carbohydrates
  • Water
  • Growth factors
  • Trace elements
66
Q

What is paraffin?

A
  • A petroleum by product, that is solid until heated.
  • When applied it stimulates sweating and prevents evaporation of perspiration.
  • It is unable to penetrate the epidermis due to its large molecular structure.
67
Q

What is lanolin?

A
  • An emollient with moisturizing, emulsifier, and humectant properties.
  • Comedogenic in high concentrations.
68
Q

What is zinc oxide used for?

A
  • Protects
  • Soothing
  • Healing
69
Q

What have studies shown chemical sunscreens are?

A

Hormone disrupters

70
Q

What is sulphur and what does it stimulate?

A
  • A mild antiseptic

- Stimulated healing when used on skin rashes.

71
Q

How does benzyl peroxide function and what can it cause?

A
  • Functions by releasing oxygen into the pilosebaceous office thereby diminishing the P.

Can cause:

  • Dryness
  • Irritations
  • Contact dermatitis
  • Photo toxicity
72
Q

What are some properties or arnica extract?

A
  • Antiseptic
  • Astringent
  • Antimicrobial
  • Anti-inflammatory
  • Anti coagulant
  • Circulation stimulating
  • Healing
73
Q

What does shea butter protect the skin from?

A

Dehydration and other climatic influences

74
Q

What are some medicinal properties of aloe extract

A
  • Antibiotic
  • Anti-Inflammatory
  • Wound healing
75
Q

Ceramides are good for dry skin. True or false.

A

True

76
Q

What are micro-sponges?

A

Tiny porous particles able to absorb as much as 4 times their weight in sebum, thus ensuring the skin maintains a matte aspect and long wear make-up.