Unlike North America, where explorers and early settlers found vitis labrusca growing in abundance, South America depended on the Spanish colonizers for imported European vinifera vines. The vine probably arrived in Argentina by four different routes. The first was directly from Spain in 1541 when vines are thought to have been cultivated, without great success, on the Atlantic coast around the river Plate. A year later, seeds of dried grapes were germinated as a result of an expedition from Peru to the current wine regions immediately east of the Andes. Another expedition from Peru in 1550 also imported vines to Argentina, while the fourth and most important vine importation came from Chile in 1556, just two years after the vine was introduced to Chile’s Central Valley. (See south america, history, for more details.)
One of the most important grape varieties systematically cultivated for wine in South America was almost certainly the forerunner of Argentina’s criolla chica, California’s mission, and Chile’s pais, which were to be the backbone of South American wine production for the next 300 years. Although Argentina was settled from both the east and the west, it was in the foothills of the Andes that the Jesuit missionaries found the best conditions for vine-growing. The first recorded vineyard was planted at Santiago del Estero in 1557. The city of Mendoza was founded in 1561 and vineyards in the province of San Juan to the north were established on a commercial scale between 1569 and 1589. Soon after that, in 1595, King Felipe II of Spain, who ruled over most of Central and South America, banned the production of wine, except by the Catholic Church. This was intended to protect Spanish wine producers and their exports to Mexico and was therefore not particularly enforced in South America, so secular producers remained, and the wine industry thrived. Contrary to popular belief, this heralded a period of almost 300 years (from the second half of the 16th century to the beginning of the 19th century) of sustained growth, innovation, and a search for wine quality, largely thanks to the powerful monks and monasteries.
Wine soon became the main economic activity, with the wealthiest families of Cuyo and the north west of Argentina—in what are today the provinces of Mendoza, San Juan, La Rioja, and Salta—engaged in wine production, either secularly, or through family members who were clergy, or both. Export routes to the cities of Buenos Aires, Córdoba, and Santa Fe to the east, to Bolivia to the north, and to Chile to the west were developed from the early 16th century, which created a dynamic proto-bourgeoisie, particularly in the Cuyo region. During this time, the most important grape variety cultivated was Uva Negra, later known as Criolla Chica, which was to be the backbone of South American wine production for the next 300 years. This and other old varieties, including various Muscats, were widely grown. Torrontés Riojano, the result of a natural crossing of Criolla Chica and Moscatel de Alejandría, dates from the 18th century.
By the skilful use of dams and irrigation channels, originally established by the native population, the early settlers were able to produce sufficient wine to meet the needs of a growing population and they also learned how to produce wine that could stand up to a journey of perhaps 45 days by cart from Mendoza to Buenos Aires. The 18th century saw major changes. To ensure quality and ageing potential, particularly for wines that had to endure long journeys, wines were fortified or, sometimes, heated, a precursor of pasteurization. Some wines were even made, like sherry, under film-forming yeasts. Wine presses changed from being made of leather and/or oak to being built with bricks, lime, and slate. The first record of fermentation vessels made from oak instead of the old clay amphorae, dates from 1740. The first ampelographic studies were carried out during the second half of the century. The first winery census by the government took place in 1780. This was a period of dynamic growth, driven by solid institutions, commerce, peace, and the conjunction of a blooming bourgeoisie and the clergy’s desire to make the most out of God’s creation. By the end of the century, Cuyo was by far the most important wine region in Argentina, with about 8,000 people in the cities of Mendoza and San Juan, almost 300 vine growers, and a total annual production of 13 million litres of wine.
Then the wine scene went into a decline that lasted for almost 100 years. In 1767 the Jesuits were expelled from Spain and its colonies by royal decree and their estates were either abandoned or seized by the Spanish crown. A civil war lasted for much of the early 19th century. It was no longer safe to transport wine and wine was no longer the most important economic activity of the region.
Some good things happened, however, such as the introduction of glass bottles, from 1820. The best example is the well-documented story of General San Martín, the son of a vine grower and probably Argentina’s first wine connoisseur. After returning from leading a long campaign in Chile and Perú against the Spanish royalists, he went back to Mendoza and organized a dinner with some of the most important people of his time. At this meal, in 1823, he poured one of his favourite wines from Mendoza, and one from a renowned producer of Málaga—transposing the labels before doing so. By the end of the evening, when all attendees had proclaimed the virtues of the bottles with the Málaga label, he had demonstrated two things: that the wines from Mendoza compared well with those of Spain, and that they could age for eight years or more—which was the time his bottles had spent in his underground cellar during his crusade against the Spanish empire.
The second half of the 19th century saw Argentina enjoy a period of relative stability and prosperity built on exports of agricultural and cattle products. Many of those who had fled to Chile returned to Cuyo. Among them was Domingo Faustino Sarmiento, who subsequently became governor of San Juan, and then president of Argentina. He campaigned for the creation of an agronomy school, including viticultural research and a vine nursery used to gradually improve vineyards, under the direction of a Frenchman exiled in 1851. Under his direction top-quality French varieties, including Malbec, were imported—before the arrival of phylloxera in Europe, incorporating much of the genetic material that was later lost in Europe. Thus Torrontés, Malbec, and many high-quality varieties were already established in Argentina before a significant wave of European immigrants of the late 1800s and early 1900s further enriched Argentina’s viticulture.
In 1885 the railway between Buenos Aires and Mendoza was completed, lending still greater importance to the vineyards in the foothills of the Andes. The immigrants, many from wine-producing areas of Italy, Spain, and France, brought with them many new vine varieties and their own regional vine-growing and winemaking skills. The foundations for Argentina’s mammoth domestic wine industry were laid. This had interesting implications. Unlike many New World wine regions where winemaking was restricted to an elite, the origin of Argentina’s modern era viticulture was popular. Even today there are over 25,000 vineyards, with an average size of less than 9 ha/23 acres. And the immigrants brought their wine-drinking culture with them, which turned Argentina into one of the largest domestic markets in the world, despite having a relatively low population. Today, Argentines drink about 75% of the national crop, a figure that has remained relatively stable.
By the early 20th century, Argentina was the seventh wealthiest developed nation in the world, but the subsequent economic depression and political crisis led to a disastrous drop in the export price of its primary products, and then a steep decline in foreign investment. The peso was often devalued almost routinely. While the landowning classes continued to prosper for some time, or salted away their capital overseas, there was growing unrest among the largely disenfranchised, poorly paid urban masses. When General Juan Domingo Perón came to power in 1943 he appealed directly to the workers with promises of rapid industrialization, better working conditions, and organized, government-controlled unions. For a while Argentina’s fortunes revived, but in the mid 1950s Perón and his ambitious and charismatic wife Eva were deposed by the military. From then on a succession of opportunistic military governments led the country into spiralling decline. The urban masses created an unprecedented market for wine so that quantity not quality became the imperative.
Most producers were content to supply cheap, rustic vino de mesa to a domestic market that boasted the third-highest per capita consumption of wine in the world. In the late 1960s and early 1970s, at a time when the UK was drinking approximately 3 litres per capita per year and the Americans even less, the Argentines, despite all their troubles, were quaffing 90 litres of wine per head. By 1996 that figure had dropped dramatically to 41 litres per capita, and has finally stabilized at around 25 litres.
Throughout the 1960s, 1970s, and 1980s Argentina grew increasedly isolated, and suffered from social and political unrest, military governments, violence, stifling bureaucracy, corruption, war, and disastrous economic management. Accumulated inflation during the 1970s was over 1,400%, and over 8,000% during the 1980s. In 1983 Argentina returned to being a democratic country and has remained one ever since.
Faced with a dramatic drop in home consumption, added to the pressing need to earn foreign currency, the more enlightened producers decided to go upmarket and in the late 1980s, for the first time, gave serious consideration to the possibilities of exporting. A peak of hyper-inflation in 1989, however, prompted President Raúl Alfonsín out of office, who was replaced by Carlos Menem, inaugurating a period of political and economic stability not experienced for decades. Under his administration, business confidence in Argentina’s future was revitalized at home and abroad, and encouraged investment in a wine industry where time had stood still (see also chile). Vineyards had been modernized during the 1980s, and technology and expertise were incorporated during the 1990s. Argentina’s wine sector was ready to export but a law that artificially pegged the Argentine peso to the US dollar, resulted in, first, an overvalued peso at the end of the 1990s which made Argentine wines too expensive, followed by prolonged recession, and a 300% devaluation in 2001/02. While being traumatic for the people of Argentina, this presented a great opportunity for its wine industry since prices were then highly competitive, and both exports and foreign investment soared.
A 1980s vine-pull scheme had reduced the total vineyard area by a third, with Malbec a specific and dramatic casualty just before its potential was realized. Argentina’s total vineyard fell from 314,000 ha/775,580 acres in the early 1980s to 205,000 ha/506,350 acres in 1993 before a new wave of high-quality varieties were planted.