CH 12 Flashcards
GEL NAIL ENHANCEMENTS (36 cards)
what is one of the most requested services in the salon
soak off gel polish services
what is an oligomer (pre polymer)
thick, gel like sticky acrylate that’s between a liquid and a solid. most gels use urethane methacrylate oligomer ( has excellent adhesion and lower risk of sensitivity
what is viscosity
measurement of thickness / thinness of a liquid and affects how that fluid flows. gels have different viscosities
what is thin/medium and thick viscosities
thin- brush on formulas
medium- called self leveling gels
thick- used for building and sculpting nail extensions.
what is a photo initiator
created chem reaction when exposed to UV or visible light. helps cure.
photo initiators are infused into oligomers so that when gel is exposed to light it will harden.
how does polymerization work
the linking of oligomers together in a solid chem resistant material. also known as cross linking.
light exposure to gel initiates chem reaction in nail (hear is created starting polymerization)
what are the cross linking levels of color gel and top coat
color layer- medium cross link - making it flexible and easy removed
top coat- higher level cross link - allowing for protection and shine
what is an exothermic reaction
heat when curing gel polish. occurs as each bone of polymer is created. the more bonds formed when gel cures=the more heat generated. the more bonds formed=stronger the enhancement
what are ways to control exothermic reactions
start with thin application and cure - providing protection
apply and cure smaller layers of gel instead of thicker / larger beads
slowly enter hand into lamp.
what is a curing lamp
powers/controls bulbs to cure gels. to cure bulbs must emit violet light at the proper intensity to provide enough energy
what are the differences between some curing lamps
type and number of bulbs
distance bulbs are from the bottom
bulb size
this can all affect curing power
what is wattage
measure of how much electricity lamp consumes.
ex= lamp with 6 bulbs with 6 wattage each- then it is a 36 watt lamp.
what is curing power referred to ask
curing power= number of bulbs inside multiplied by wattage
what is a LED lamp (light emitting diodes)
creates direct light that must shine directly on to gel to make it cure. cure times usually range from 5-60 seconds for each layer of gel.
LED bulbs are made in wavelengths from 365nm - 405 nm (nanometers.)
what is a nanometer
scale used to identify certain color and intensity of light.
when creating a bulb for curing gels, they harness the violet color and intensity level that will be in sync with the photo initiators in the product.
what is a UV lamp
florescent bulbs radiate light inside kazoo so all nails are equally exposed in ranges from 320nm-400nm (less than LED) curing times range from 1-2 mins each layer (more time than LED)
what are the differences between LED and UV lamps
LED have higher NM
LED takes shorter time to cure
LED more common in salons=save time.
LED bulbs last longer than UV=save money
what are soft gels
(soak off gels)
formulated to overlay natural nail
easy to remove with acetone.
some are strong enough to create very short extension but most are made with pigment and created to replace traditional polishes
what are hard gels
traditional gels-strong enough to build nail extensions
non porous surface and cannot be penetrated with acetone
crystal clear appearance, low oder, strength
LEAVE 3/16 INCH AROUND CUTICLE/SIDEWALLS
what are the different types of gels
bonding gels, builder gels, polymer gels, pigmented gels, soak off gel polishes, finishing gels
what are bonding gels
gels need a primer, base gel or bonding gel to increase adhesion to natural nail plate
sometimes acid/acid free primer is used first. often bonding /base gel will be applied with no primer. applied thinly to nail and usually need to be cured. after you will apply another type of gel to complete look.
what are building gels
thick viscosity gel to build arch/extension. add thickness to nail with 1-2 coats. must be cured in between coats. can be non or self leveling.
non self leveling= thick viscosity and leave bumps.
self leveling= more fluid and can leave nail smooth. can add thickness but not as much as non self leveling.
most are hard gels and come in a pot
what are polymer gels
(polygel/ acrygel)
created from mix of polymer powder and hard gels. thick viscosity allows more control. most come in tube and squeezed like toothpaste. can also be used for 3D art. can have amazing adhesion of a hard gel. recommended to prep with non acid primer/ bonding gel. needs to be maintained every two weeks. removed like normal gel= filing it away
what are pigmented gels
include color pigment. usually hard gels and cannot be soaked off. some create gel paint (thick viscosity gel used for detailed art) can be used for art and then apply building gel over it for encapsulated look. some as used like polish and painted over nails with special brush
