Chapter 14 Flashcards
1
Q
What are fancy cuts in diamond grading?
A
Fancy cuts refer to diamond shapes that differ from the standard round brilliant, including various cutting styles and shapes other than round
Fancy shapes can include princess, oval, pear, and more.
2
Q
How is the evaluation of fancy cuts different from round brilliants?
A
Fancy cuts have more variations depending on shape and cutting style, while round brilliants have precise grading factors
Grading for round brilliants can be down to half a percentage point.
3
Q
What does the phrase ‘The whole is greater than the sum of its parts’ mean in the context of fancy cuts?
A
It means the overall look of a fancy cut is often more important than specific details
This contrasts with round brilliants where precise details are critical.
4
Q
What factors do graders assess for both fancy cuts and round brilliants?
A
Graders look at color and symmetry
These factors are important in both types of diamond grading.
5
Q
True or False: There is universal agreement on what makes a fancy cut beautiful.
A
False
Beauty in fancy cuts is mostly a matter of personal taste.
6
Q
Why are buyers less likely to follow strict guidelines for fancy-cut diamonds?
A
Because each stone is unique and buyers prefer to see the actual stones before purchasing
The individuality of fancy cuts contributes to their appeal and grading challenges.
7
Q
What challenge do graders face when evaluating fancy-cut diamonds?
A
The individuality of each stone makes grading them more challenging
Unique characteristics can vary widely among fancy cuts.
8
Q
What has influenced the evolution of diamond cuts over time?
A
Advances in cutting technologies and the unlimited imaginations of cutters
This has led to a wide variety of diamond cutting styles.
9
Q
Fill in the blank: Fancy cuts do receive grades and appear on trade price lists, but buyers are less likely to buy fancy-cut diamonds without _______.
A
[seeing the actual stones]
10
Q
What is one of the reasons fancy cuts have become important in the jewelry industry?
A
They have their own unique beauty standards, which attract buyers
This has contributed to trends in the jewelry market.
11
Q
What is the challenge in grading fancy cuts of diamonds?
A
Many fancy cuts are truly unique, making grading a challenge.
12
Q
What does the beauty of a fancy cut primarily depend on?
A
Personal taste.
13
Q
What does the term ‘cut’ refer to in the context of gemstones?
A
It can refer to a gem’s proportions, finish, shape, and cutting style.
14
Q
What is the definition of ‘shape’ in relation to a gem?
A
The face-up outline of a gem.
15
Q
What is meant by ‘cutting style’?
A
The arrangement of a gem’s facets.
16
Q
List the three major diamond cutting styles.
A
- Brilliant cut
- Step cut
- Mixed cut
17
Q
What is the most commonly chosen diamond cutting style?
A
Brilliant cut.
18
Q
Describe the features of a brilliant cut.
A
It features triangular and kite-shaped facets that radiate from a gem’s center toward its girdle.
19
Q
What is a modified brilliant cut?
A
A brilliant cut with additional facets placed symmetrically.
20
Q
How are the facets arranged in a step cut?
A
Long, narrow, four-sided facets arranged in rows parallel to the girdle.
21
Q
What are the characteristics of mixed cuts?
A
They have either brilliant-cut crowns and step-cut pavilions or brilliant-cut pavilions and step-cut crowns.
22
Q
Fill in the blank: Any of these cutting styles can be used with a variety of different _______.
A
[shapes].
23
Q
Who created the Flower Cut series?
A
Gabi Tolkowsky
The Flower Cut series was commissioned by De Beers in 1986.
24
Q
What was the purpose of creating the Flower Cut series?
A
To market unusual, off-color stones
Gabi Tolkowsky was tasked with developing new cuts.
25
What is the most popular diamond cutting style?
The brilliant cut
## Footnote
The brilliant cut features triangular and kite-shaped facets.
26
Describe the facets of the brilliant cut.
Triangular and kite-shaped facets
## Footnote
These facets radiate from the center toward the girdle.
27
Fill in the blank: The Flower Cut series was commissioned by _______.
De Beers
28
True or False: The brilliant cut has square-shaped facets.
False
## Footnote
The brilliant cut has triangular and kite-shaped facets.
29
Name cut
Hexagonal
30
Name cut
Pentagonal
31
Name cut
Pear
32
Name cut
Half Moon
33
Name cut
Rhomboid
34
Name cut
Shield
35
Name cut
Triangular
36
Name cut
Marquise
37
Name cut
Trapezoid
38
Name cut
Kite
39
Name cut
Lozenge
40
Name cut
octagonal
41
Name cut
Heart
42
Name cut
Oval
43
Name cut
Cushion
44
Name cut
Square
45
Name cut
Rectangular
46
What is usually the first thing you notice about a fashioned diamond?
The face-up shape of the diamond
## Footnote
The shape can be triangular, square, or pear-shaped, among others.
47
What are the common shapes of fancy-cut diamonds?
Triangular, square, pear-shaped, and round
## Footnote
Round is considered a traditional shape, while the others are categorized as fancy cuts.
48
Why is shape often a major selling point of a fancy-cut diamond?
Because it is so noticeable
## Footnote
The distinct outline stands out in comparison to round diamonds.
49
What do fancy cuts allow customers to express?
Their individuality
## Footnote
Fancy cuts appeal to less traditional consumers.
50
How can fancy cuts be described in terms of jewelry design?
As versatile design elements in multi-diamond jewelry
## Footnote
They can complement various styles and settings.
51
What is important to be familiar with regarding fancy cuts?
Their appearances and uses
## Footnote
Each fancy cut has its own set of variables.
52
Fill in the blank: A diamond shopper often comes into a jewelry store with a specific ______ in mind.
[shape]
## Footnote
This indicates a preference for a particular diamond shape.
53
True or False: Fancy cuts of diamonds have the same appearance and uses.
False
## Footnote
Each fancy cut is different and has its own characteristics.
54
What is the central area of the side of a pear, marquise, heart, or oval called?
Belly
## Footnote
The belly is where the width of the stone is measured.
55
What is the area between the belly and the point of a fancy cut called?
Wing
56
What is the rounded end of a pear or oval referred to as?
Head
57
What are the curved edges between the head and the belly of a pear or oval called?
Shoulders
58
What are the rounded portions of a heart shape called?
Lobes
59
What is the V-shaped indentation between the lobes of a heart shape called?
Cleft
60
What faceting variation is used to increase the durability of marquises, pears, and hearts?
French tips
61
What does the keel line refer to in a fancy cut stone?
The bottom where the pavilion facets meet
62
Fill in the blank: The keel line runs the length of the stone and sometimes includes or passes through the _______.
Culet
63
What is the purpose of brand names or proprietary terms in diamond cutting?
They offer important branding opportunities and describe fancy cuts.
64
Why doesn't GIA use brand and trade terms in its reports?
Because these terms mean different things to different people and aren’t always descriptive of the actual shape and cut.
65
What standard naming system does GIA use to describe diamonds?
A description that includes the name of the diamond’s shape followed by the name of its cutting style.
66
List common diamond shapes recognized by GIA.
* Round
* Cushion
* Oval
* Square
* Rectangular
* Pear
* Marquise
* Triangular
* Heart
67
What additional terms are included for shapes with beveled or rounded corners?
Cut-cornered or round-cornered.
68
What does the term 'modified' signify in diamond descriptions?
It describes shape variations or a brilliant cut that deviates from a standard in its facet arrangement.
69
What is a 'Round Modified Brilliant'?
A diamond with a cutting style that deviates symmetrically from the standard round brilliant facet arrangement.
70
True or False: A fancy-shape brilliant is considered a standard brilliant regardless of facet differences.
True
71
What is a 'Cushion Modified Brilliant'?
A cushion shape with four large facets added to the pavilion.
72
When is the term 'modified' used before the shape name?
When the outline is altered.
73
When is the term 'modified' used after the shape name?
When only the facet arrangement is altered.
74
What does GIA's naming rules help with regarding diamond grading reports?
They help explain the reports to customers and clients.
75
Fill in the blank: Diamonds can be cut in almost any shape, but common shapes include round, cushion, oval, ______, rectangular, pear, marquise, triangle, and heart.
square
76
What is an oval shape in diamonds known for?
Adding a touch of elegance to simple designs like diamond and gold rings
## Footnote
Oval shapes provide an alternative for those seeking something different from round diamonds.
77
What distinctive look does a trio of marquise cuts provide?
A distinctive look in diamond designs
## Footnote
Marquise cuts are one of the fancy shapes that add uniqueness.
78
What inspired the creation of fancy-cut diamonds?
The success of the round brilliant
## Footnote
Manufacturers aimed to replicate the superior light return of round brilliants.
79
What was the goal of diamond manufacturers when experimenting with brilliant-cut fancy shapes?
To bring the round brilliant’s superior light return to oddly shaped or low-color rough
## Footnote
They also sought to appeal to customer desires for unique cuts.
80
What is the trade term for a square or rectangular modified brilliant cut developed in the late 1970s?
Princess cut
## Footnote
Princess cuts surpass round brilliants in yield.
81
How does the yield of princess cuts compare to round brilliants?
Princess cuts surpass round brilliants in yield
## Footnote
Round brilliants typically only retain about 50 percent.
82
What settings are princess cuts popular in?
Channel settings or invisible settings
## Footnote
Their straight sides allow them to be set against each other without gaps.
83
Who patented the radiant cut and when?
Henry Grossbard in the late 1970s
## Footnote
The radiant cut features beveled corners and brilliant-cut facets.
84
What is the rough retention percentage for radiant cuts?
About 60 percent
## Footnote
This makes them more efficient than round brilliants.
85
What is the Quadrillion®?
A branded version of the princess cut with a narrower range of proportions
## Footnote
It offers a distinct look compared to standard princess cuts.
86
What are radiant-cut diamonds sometimes referred to as?
Brilliantized step cuts
## Footnote
This term reflects their unique cutting style.
87
True or False: Radiant cuts maximize color for fancy colored stones more than other cutting styles.
True
## Footnote
This feature distinguishes them from other cuts.
88
Fill in the blank: The _______ cut is a square or rectangular modified brilliant with beveled corners.
Radiant cut
## Footnote
Radiant cuts offer a scintillating alternative to the emerald cut.
89
What shapes are considered alternatives to round diamonds?
Oval, pear, marquise, princess, and radiant cuts
## Footnote
Each offers unique aesthetic qualities.
90
What is the shape of a pear-shaped brilliant?
Rounded at one end and tapered to a point at the other.
91
What is the facet arrangement of the pear-shaped brilliant a variation of?
The round brilliant cut.
92
What is another name for a long, narrow pear-shaped diamond?
Pendeloque.
93
How do pears compare to rounds in terms of brilliance?
Pears can be almost as brilliant as rounds.
94
What shape tends to look more graceful on the finger for large diamonds?
Elongated shapes such as the pear.
95
What is the outline of an oval cut diamond?
Elliptical girdle outline.
96
Why is the oval cut a good choice for customers?
It resembles the round cut but offers something slightly different.
97
What is a marquise cut characterized by?
An elongated, elliptical shape with curved sides and pointed ends.
98
What does the marquise cut resemble?
A little boat.
99
When did the marquise cut gain popularity?
In the 1970s.
100
What diamond cut became more popular than the marquise by the 21st century?
The princess cut.
101
What are pear shapes ideal for?
Pendants and earrings.
102
What do ovals appeal to consumers looking for?
Something slightly different from rounds with the same brilliant cut.
103
What do triangular brilliants display?
High levels of brightness and pleasing geometric shapes.
104
What is a practical cutting option for a macle?
Triangular brilliant cut.
105
What are triangular brilliant cuts also known as?
Trillions.
106
What are the names of some proprietary triangular cuts?
Trielle and Trilliant.
107
What does the heart-shaped brilliant cut symbolize?
Romance.
108
What is the cushion cut?
A classic brilliant cut that is generally either rectangular or square, with slightly curved sides and rounded corners.
109
What is the antique version of the cushion-cut brilliant?
The old mine brilliant.
110
Describe the half-moon cut.
Resembles a round brilliant divided in half from table to culet, creating a half-circle face-up outline.
111
What happens to broken rounds in terms of cutting?
They are occasionally recut into half-moons.
112
What is another name for the cut-cornered triangular shape in the trade?
Shield.
113
What does the outline of a cut-cornered triangular shape resemble?
A warrior’s shield.
114
What factors can vary in the cut-cornered triangular shape?
The number of sides, as well as their lengths and angles.
115
Are there unlimited shape possibilities in brilliant cutting?
Yes, the shape possibilities are unlimited.
116
Give examples of non-traditional shapes in brilliant cutting.
* Octagonal
* Kite-shaped
* Brilliant-cut star
117
What is the main difference in appearance between antique-cut diamonds and modern brilliants?
The main difference is a matter of intensity.
118
Which antique diamond cut features a rounded teardrop shape with triangular facets and no girdle?
Briolette
119
What characterizes the rose cut diamond?
It features a flat base and triangular facets that come to a peak.
120
Which antique cut diamond was the most common before the round brilliant replaced it?
Rose cut
121
What is a bead cut diamond?
A rounded, completely faceted diamond, drilled lengthwise for stringing.
122
What is the purpose of rondelle cut diamonds?
They are used as ornamental spacers between colored stones or other elements in necklaces.
123
What do modern designers appreciate about antique cuts?
They see them as sculptural works of art.
124
What was the perception of the round brilliant compared to antique cuts when it arrived?
It was considered far superior to any of its ancestors.
125
How does the aesthetic purpose of diamonds change the acceptance of variations in antique cuts?
It made variations in proportion or facet alignment acceptable again.
126
What does the toned-down brilliance of an antique cut emphasize?
It can emphasize the pattern of the facet arrangement or the shape of the diamond's face-up outline.
127
How is the determination made between a cushion-cut brilliant and an old mine brilliant?
Based on their proportions.
128
What is the trend regarding antique cuts among diamond manufacturers?
They began producing calibrated versions of antique cuts.
129
What are some criticisms of calibrated antique cuts?
Some designers see them as a contradiction of the charming irregularities known in antique cuts.
130
What size ranges are common for briolette cut diamonds?
0.50-ct. to 1.00-ct. sizes.
131
What size ranges are common for rose cut diamonds?
3-mm to 6-mm sizes.
132
What size ranges are common for bead cut diamonds?
2-mm to 4-mm sizes.
133
What size ranges are common for rondelle cut diamonds?
2-mm to 6-mm sizes.
134
Where are most manufacturers of calibrated antique cuts located?
India
135
True or False: Antique cuts have taken the popular market by storm.
False
136
What do antique cuts in jewelry show an appreciation for?
Diamonds that can enhance, not eclipse, the beauty of an elegant setting.
137
Fill in the blank: The increasing presence of antique cuts in jewelry revives the _____ of diamonds as objects of beauty.
old-world charm
138
What are step cuts characterized by?
Long, sleek lines and a subtle gleam
139
When did step cuts first appear?
In the early 1400s
140
What was the first diamond cut?
The table cut
141
What do consumers admire about step cuts?
Traditional outlines and understated elegance
142
What is a key feature of most step cuts?
A large table facet
143
How do step cuts differ from brilliant cuts regarding clarity?
Step cuts require a high standard of clarity as imperfections are more visible
144
What is the most popular step cut?
The emerald cut
145
What shape do the corners of an emerald cut have?
Beveled corners
146
How many rows of facets can an emerald cut have?
Two, three, or four concentric rows
147
What is the effect of the step-cut style on a diamond's appearance?
Emphasizes the diamond's clarity
148
What is a defining characteristic of a well-made emerald cut?
It resembles a reflecting pool
149
What term is used when an emerald cut has a square face-up outline?
Square emerald cut
150
What is a baguette in terms of diamond cuts?
A small, four-sided, step-cut diamond
151
What shapes can the sides of baguettes take?
Parallel or tapered toward each other
152
How were baguettes primarily used for decades?
As accent stones, such as side diamonds for a round brilliant
153
What popular style in the 1980s featured baguettes?
The ballerina ring
154
What effect did the ballerina ring create?
Baguettes radiating outward from a center stone, resembling a ballerina's tutu
155
What is a lozenge step cut?
A four-sided cut with two narrow angles that give it an elongated 'diamond' shape.
## Footnote
The lozenge shape is distinct due to its elongated appearance.
156
Describe a trapeze-shaped step cut.
A four-sided face-up outline with two sides that are parallel but of unequal length.
## Footnote
The trapeze shape is often used in jewelry for its unique visual appeal.
157
What is a triangular step cut?
A logical shape for a macle, or flat piece of rough.
## Footnote
The triangular shape is commonly associated with certain types of gemstones.
158
What is the Asscher cut?
A cut-cornered square or sometimes rectangular step cut, patented in the early 1900s.
## Footnote
The Asscher cut is known for its unique shape and historical significance in diamond cutting.
159
How is the Asscher cut related to the emerald cut?
The Asscher cut is the predecessor of the modern emerald cut.
## Footnote
Both cuts share similarities in their design and style.
160
What are the characteristics of the Asscher cut?
Wide corners that are nearly octagonal, a small table, high crown, and deep pavilion.
## Footnote
These features contribute to the Asscher cut's unique sparkle and appearance.
161
What are the five clarity factors considered in grading fancy cuts?
* Size
* Number
* Location
* Relief
* Nature
## Footnote
These factors are the same for both round brilliants and fancy cuts.
162
What examination magnification is used to determine the clarity grade for fancy cuts?
10x examination
## Footnote
This is standard for both round brilliants and fancy cuts.
163
What unique clarity consideration is associated with step cuts?
Tends to reveal even minor characteristics due to its large table
## Footnote
The different pattern of reflections compared to round brilliants contributes to this.
164
Why might inclusions be difficult to see in certain brilliant fancy cuts?
Inclusions can be difficult to see in the points of hearts, marquises, and pears
## Footnote
Especially if these cuts have French tips.
165
What emotional factors might influence buyers of fancy cuts?
Attraction based on emotional reasons as well as practical and quantifiable factors
## Footnote
The beauty of a fancy cut lies in both the grader's and buyer's perceptions.
166
What is a crucial aspect of grading fancy-cut diamonds?
The grader must consider each stone’s separate parts in the context of its overall appearance
## Footnote
This reflects the art involved in grading due to many variables.
167
Why should the term 'fancy' not be shortened when discussing fancy-cut diamonds?
To avoid confusion with what the trade calls fancy-color diamonds
## Footnote
Maintaining clarity in terminology is important in the diamond industry.
168
True or False: The grading considerations for fancy cuts are identical to those for round brilliants.
False
## Footnote
While some considerations are identical, others depend on the shape and cutting style.
169
Fill in the blank: Grading fancy-cut diamonds is considered an _______ due to many variables.
[art]
## Footnote
The subjective nature of beauty plays a significant role.
170
What are fancy cuts typically cut from?
Irregular rough
## Footnote
Fancy cuts often have clarity characteristics due to structural irregularities.
171
Why do graders examine the tips of marquises, hearts, and pears?
To check for inclusions
## Footnote
Inclusions are more difficult to see under points.
172
Fill in the blank: Fancy cuts often have clarity characteristics caused by _______.
[structural irregularities]
173
True or False: Inclusions are easy to see under the tips of fancy cut gemstones.
False
## Footnote
Inclusions are more difficult to see under points.
174
How is color graded for fancy cuts and rounds?
Color is graded in the same way for fancy cuts and rounds using the same round brilliant masterstones for comparison and controlled lighting.
175
What do graders do for fancy-shape diamonds in the D-to-Z color range?
Graders use different viewing positions to account for the effect of the diamond’s shape and cutting style on its color appearance.
176
What is the first position used by graders to examine diamonds?
Diamonds are first examined face-down.
177
In the face-down position, how can a diamond's color appear?
The color might appear more intense when viewed lengthwise and more faded or 'washed out' when viewed across the stone’s width.
178
How do graders determine the grade based on color appearance?
The grade is based on the amount of color seen in a diagonal direction, with the diamond at a 45-degree angle to the line of sight.
179
What advantage does viewing a diamond at a 45-degree angle provide?
It provides the best visual 'average' for observing the amount of color.
180
How do fancy shapes compare to round brilliant diamonds regarding face-up color?
Fancy shapes toward the lower end of the D-to-Z scale often appear to have more face-up color than round brilliant diamonds.
181
What happens to fancy shapes with a color grade of Q or lower?
They are viewed face-up to assess if they have enough color to be graded on the colored diamond color scale.
182
What is assigned if a fancy shape does not have enough color in the face-up position?
A D-to-Z color grade range is assigned.
183
What measurement do graders use to calculate table percentage for fancy shapes?
Table Size ÷ Stone Width × 100 = Table Percentage
184
How do graders measure table size for most fancy shapes?
They use the largest table size, measured across the stone’s width.
185
How do graders measure table size for square shapes?
They use the smallest table size, as measured across the length and width positions.
186
What is the common characteristic of large tables in fancy cuts?
Large tables—sometimes over 80 percent—are common.
187
What method do graders use to estimate crown angle for fancy cuts?
They look lengthwise at the stone’s profile.
188
How do graders assess crown angles for round brilliants?
They examine the bezel facets at the belly.
189
What are the descriptive terms assigned to crown angles of fancy cuts?
* acceptable
* slightly shallow
* very shallow
* slightly steep
* very steep
190
How is girdle thickness judged for fancy cuts?
The same way as in round brilliants.
191
What condition is considered when the girdle is not scalloped?
The thickness of the entire girdle.
192
Why are points often thicker on fancy cuts?
To help protect them from chipping.
193
What might create a knife-edge in the girdle area?
Thinner girdle due to extra facets or naturals at points or corners.
194
What term is used when the girdle thickness is extremely thin?
Extremely thin.
195
Fill in the blank: Graders round the table percentage result to the nearest _______.
percent
196
How is total depth percentage calculated for round shapes?
Total Depth Percentage = Stone Depth ÷ Stone Width × 100
## Footnote
Graders round the result to the nearest tenth of a percent.
197
What total depth percentage range is considered normal for round brilliant diamonds?
59 to 63 percent
## Footnote
Total depth outside this range may indicate lower cut quality.
198
What total depth percentage is often attractive for princess cut diamonds?
More than 70 percent
199
What two factors do graders consider when assessing pavilion depth?
* Face-up appearance
* Crown height to pavilion depth relationship
200
What initial observation do graders make about a diamond's face-up appearance?
Whether the stone is reasonably brilliant
201
What appearance might indicate a shallow pavilion?
Glassy- or watery-looking diamond or visible girdle reflection
202
What visual cue suggests a deep pavilion?
If the stone looks dark
203
How should a gem's pavilion depth relate to its crown height for proper proportion?
Pavilion should be about 2.5 to 4.5 times the depth of its crown
204
What final classifications do graders use to assess pavilion depth?
* Acceptable
* Slightly shallow
* Very shallow
* Slightly deep
* Very deep
205
What is the importance of an experienced eye in grading diamonds?
No rules can replace a good look at the stone
206
How is total depth percentage calculated for round shapes?
Total depth percentage is calculated using the formula: Stone Depth ÷ Stone Width × 100
## Footnote
Graders round the result to the nearest tenth of a percent.
207
What total depth percentage range indicates lower cut quality for round brilliant diamonds?
59 to 63 percent
## Footnote
This range may not apply to other shapes.
208
What total depth percentage is often attractive for princess cuts?
More than 70 percent
209
What factors do graders consider when assessing pavilion depth?
Face-up appearance and crown height to pavilion depth relationship
## Footnote
Graders consider these factors individually and then together.
210
What visual cues indicate a shallow pavilion?
Glassy- or watery-looking appearance and visible girdle reflection at the sides of the table
211
What visual cue indicates a deep pavilion?
If the stone looks dark
212
What is the ideal proportion of pavilion depth to crown height?
About 2.5 to 4.5 times the depth of its crown
213
What terms do graders use to describe pavilion depth?
Acceptable, slightly shallow, very shallow, slightly deep, very deep
214
True or False: No rules can substitute for an experienced grader's assessment of a diamond's pavilion.
True
215
What effect do graders consider in the evaluation of the pavilion?
The bow-tie effect in brilliants and pavilion bulge in step cuts
## Footnote
The bow-tie effect is particularly noted in the face-up view of certain diamond shapes.
216
What is the appearance of a bow-tie in marquises, pears, and ovals?
A dark shadow resembling a bow-tie running across the width of the stone in the center of the table
## Footnote
This is especially common in shallow or very deep stones.
217
How can slightly deep pavilions affect the bow-tie effect?
They can eliminate it
## Footnote
This indicates that pavilion depth plays a significant role in the visibility of the bow-tie.
218
Under what conditions do graders assess a bow-tie?
Face-up, without magnification, under normal lighting conditions
## Footnote
This ensures an accurate evaluation of the diamond's appearance.
219
What factors contribute to the darkness of a bow-tie?
The difference between a diamond's length and width and pavilion angle variations
## Footnote
Greater extremes in these factors lead to a darker bow-tie.
220
What is the range of colors a bow-tie can display?
Light gray to black
## Footnote
The color intensity affects the diamond's overall appearance and value.
221
How do graders determine the size of a bow-tie?
By assessing how much of the diamond's face-up view it occupies
## Footnote
Size affects the grading of the bow-tie.
222
What grading terms are used for bow-ties based on size and darkness?
* Obvious
* Noticeable
* Slight
## Footnote
These terms reflect the visual impact of the bow-tie on the diamond.
223
Why is pavilion bulge not a factor for brilliants?
Brilliants have mains that run straight from girdle to culet
## Footnote
This design minimizes the impact of pavilion bulge.
224
What characterizes the pavilion cuts of step cuts?
Concentric rows of pavilion facets
## Footnote
This design makes pavilion bulge inevitable.
225
What can cutters do to create a pronounced pavilion bulge?
Cut the top row of pavilion facets wide and set them at a very steep angle
## Footnote
This technique can save weight but increases light leakage.
226
What is the effect of a pronounced pavilion bulge on the stone's appearance?
It does not increase the stone's face-up size but adds to its carat weight and cost
## Footnote
This is more beneficial to the seller than the buyer.
227
How do graders assess pavilion bulge?
Using 10x magnification to look at the stone's profile across both its length and width
## Footnote
This method allows for a detailed evaluation of the pavilion's shape.
228
What should the profile of a well-cut stone show from girdle to culet?
An even, gentle arc
## Footnote
This indicates a desirable pavilion shape.
229
What does more bulge than necessary indicate in a step cut?
It affects a stone’s value.
230
How do graders describe pavilion bulge when it appears excessive?
As slight, noticeable, or obvious.
231
What do most professional graders and appraisers note about bow-ties and pavilion bulges?
They note them only on their worksheets.
232
Do customers receive information about bow-ties and pavilion bulges in quality reports?
No, they do not receive this information.
233
What should buyers examine when purchasing or matching fancy cuts?
The stones, not the reports.
234
How do graders judge a fancy cut's culet size?
By looking through the table
235
What terms are used to describe culet size?
Range from 'None' to 'Extremely Large'
236
What is sometimes elongated in fancy cuts?
The culet
237
What factor do graders consider in the culet's size?
The culet's width
238
What is the quality characteristic of shape appeal?
It refers to how graceful and pleasing a diamond's shape is.
239
How do graders judge symmetry in diamonds?
They compare each diamond's parts to its whole.
240
What is considered when evaluating shape appeal?
A diamond's appearance in relation to other gems of the same shape and cutting style.
241
Do graders compare diamonds directly to one another when judging shape appeal?
No, they assess attractiveness based on certain proportions and characteristics.
242
What happens if a fancy-cut diamond differs too much from typical proportions?
It might be difficult to set in jewelry.
243
What is a consequence of an emerald cut with narrow corners?
It looks awkward and has less surface area for corner prongs.
244
Why might buyers pay for extra weight in diamonds?
Because it adds no extra beauty.
245
What does the trade preference typically favor for a pear shape?
A shape that is neither long and skinny nor short and stubby.
246
Fill in the blank: Diamonds that remain within this range of appeal are more likely to _______.
sell.
247
True or False: Certain variations of diamond shapes can be attractive to some buyers, even if not popular.
True.
248
Who might prefer a skinny or stubby pear shape?
A designer of contemporary jewelry or an artistic individual.
249
What does NC stand for in shape appeal considerations?
Narrow corners on shapes with beveled corners
250
What does WC stand for in shape appeal considerations?
Wide corners on shapes with beveled corners
251
What does HS represent in shape appeal considerations?
High shoulders on pears and ovals
252
What does FW mean in shape appeal considerations?
Flat wings on marquises, pears, and hearts
253
What does BW stand for in shape appeal considerations?
Bulged wings on marquises, pears, and hearts
254
What does UP signify in shape appeal considerations?
Undefined points on marquises, pears, and hearts
255
What does ML stand for in shape appeal considerations?
Misshapen lobes on hearts
256
What is the formula for calculating the length-to-width ratio?
Length-to-Width Ratio = (Length ÷ Width):1
257
If a stone has a length of 9.00 mm and a width of 6.00 mm, what is its length-to-width ratio?
1.50:1
258
True or False: Most fancy-cut diamond buyers believe that a length-to-width ratio alone is sufficient to convey a diamond's beauty.
False
259
What length-to-width ratio is preferred for an Emerald cut?
1.50-1.75:1
260
What length-to-width ratio is preferred for a Heart cut?
1:1
261
What length-to-width ratio is typical for a Triangle cut?
1.00:1
262
What is the preferred length-to-width ratio for a Marquise cut?
1.75-2.25:1
263
What length-to-width ratio is considered too long for an Emerald cut?
2.00:1
264
What length-to-width ratio is considered too short for a Heart cut?
<1.00:1
265
Fill in the blank: The length-to-width ratio for an Oval cut is typically between _______.
1.33-1.66:1
266
What is the maximum acceptable length-to-width ratio for a Pear cut?
>2.00:1
267
True or False: Buyers prefer to see stones before deciding to buy, regardless of the length-to-width ratio.
True
268
What is the typical length-to-width ratio for a Pear cut?
1.50-1.75:1
269
What is the length-to-width ratio range considered too short for an Oval cut?
>1.10-1.25:1
270
List the typical length-to-width ratios for fancy cuts.
* Emerald 1.50-1.75:1
* Heart 1:1
* Triangle 1.00:1
* Marquise 1.75-2.25:1
* Oval 1.33-1.66:1
* Pear 1.50-1.75:1
271
What do some in the trade prefer regarding diamond proportions?
Certain length-to-width ratios
## Footnote
These ratios are often considered to determine the shape and appearance of the diamond.
272
What do most fancy-cut diamond buyers believe about length-to-width ratios?
A ratio alone isn’t enough to convey a diamond’s beauty or marketability
## Footnote
Buyers seek a more holistic view of the diamond rather than relying solely on numerical ratios.
273
What do fancy-cut diamond buyers prefer before deciding to buy?
To see stones for themselves
## Footnote
Personal inspection allows buyers to assess the diamond's beauty and appeal directly.
274
What are the two main parts of the grading category for finish?
Polish and symmetry
275
How is fancy-cut diamond polish rated?
Excellent, Very Good, Good, Fair, or Poor
276
What does symmetry in diamonds refer to?
Balance and the relationship of a diamond’s individual parts to each other and the diamond as a whole
277
What property do fancy shapes have that is important for symmetry grading?
Line symmetry
278
How many lines of symmetry do most shapes have?
At least one, but many have two
279
What does a line of symmetry create in a shape?
Two equal parts
280
What factors do graders compare across each line of symmetry?
Outline, size, shape, and placement of the facets
281
How does an off-center culet affect a diamond?
It affects the diamond’s symmetry rating
282
What can happen if a culet is located along a shape’s line of symmetry but placed incorrectly?
It can detract from the stone’s appearance
283
On which shapes is symmetry evaluated along one line?
Pear- and heart-shaped diamonds
284
Tell the culet placement
Too high
285
Tell the culet placement
Proper
286
Tell the culet placement
Too low
287
What does UO stand for in symmetry evaluation?
Uneven outline
## Footnote
This includes variations such as sides not parallel and uneven corners.
288
Name five examples of uneven outlines (UO) in diamonds.
* Sides not parallel
* Uneven corners
* Uneven wings on marquises, pears, and hearts
* Uneven lobes on hearts
* Uneven shoulders on pears and ovals
289
What does T/oc indicate in diamond grading?
Table off-center
## Footnote
Refers to a misalignment of the diamond's table.
290
What is assessed when checking for symmetry variations in diamonds?
* Table/culet alignment (T/C)
* Misalignment (Aln)
* Misshapen facets (Fac, MB, MM, MS)
291
What does Ptg stand for in the context of diamond grading?
Non-pointing
## Footnote
Refers to facets that do not meet at a point.
292
What is the significance of a diamond's appearance under a 10x loupe?
Grading based on overall visibility of symmetry variations
## Footnote
Graders evaluate subtle differences in symmetry.
293
How can a grader check for parallel sides in a rectangular diamond?
By comparing the length of opposing sides against each other.
294
What angle should the corners of a well-balanced rectangular diamond meet at?
Right angles (90 degrees)
295
What are the five ratings for diamond symmetry?
* Excellent
* Very Good
* Good
* Fair
* Poor
296
What does MF stand for in diamond grading?
Missing facets
297
What does EF indicate in the context of diamond symmetry?
Extra facet
298
What is the term for a natural imperfection in a diamond?
Natural (N)
299
What is an uneven outline (UO)?
An outline that includes various asymmetries in shape and structure
## Footnote
UO can affect the overall appearance and quality of shapes in design and art.
300
List some characteristics of an uneven outline (UO)
* Sides not parallel
* Uneven corners
* Uneven wings on marquises
* Uneven wings on pears
* Uneven wings on hearts
* Uneven lobes on hearts
* Uneven shoulders on pears
* Uneven shoulders on ovals
## Footnote
Each of these characteristics contributes to the overall unevenness of the outline.
301
What does T/oc stand for?
| variations in symmetry
Table off-center
302
What does C/oc refer to?
| variations in symmetry
Culet off-center
303
What is indicated by T/C?
| variations in symmetry
Table/culet alignment
304
What does Aln represent?
| variations in symmetry
Misalignment
305
What are the types of misshapen facets?
| variations in symmetry
* Facets (Fac)
* Main Brilliant (MB)
* Mixed (MM)
* Modified (MS)
306
What does Ptg denote?
| variations in symmetry
Non-pointing
307
What are the types of non-pointing facets?
| variations in symmetry
* OB
* OM
* SB
* SM
308
What does MF stand for?
| variations in symmetry
Missing facets
309
What is represented by EF?
| variations in symmetry
Extra facet
310
What does N signify?
| variations in symmetry
Natural
311
How does grading fancy cuts differ from grading round brilliants?
Grading fancy cuts results in a descriptive quality evaluation that summarizes the diamond’s features.
312
What is the role of the grading report for fancy-cut diamonds?
The grading report serves as a useful guide for potential buyers and is an important record of a diamond’s identifying characteristics.
313
True or False: The grading report can fully convey the beauty of a fancy-cut diamond.
False
314
What should a buyer do before making a buying decision on a fancy-cut diamond?
Examine the diamond in question.
315
Fill in the blank: The grading report is essentially a summary of a diamond’s _______.
[features]
316
What is the classic round brilliant known for in the marketplace?
It will never lack competitors.
317
What influences the development of new cutting styles?
The desire for increased brilliance and better yield.
318
What are some classic cuts mentioned?
* Oval
* Emerald
* Princess cut
319
Which cut is referred to as a modern classic?
Princess cut
320
What is one of the most requested fancy-shape center stones for engagement rings?
Cushion cut
321
How does the popularity of the cushion cut compare to the princess cut?
It is approaching princess cuts in popularity.
322
What type of cuts appear in jewelry by many design houses?
Elegant antique cuts.
323
Do fancy cuts maintain their popularity against round cuts?
Yes, they maintain their popularity against the still-dominant round.
