Chapter 20: Chemical Texture Services

Question 1

The natural pH of hair is between 4.5 and 5.5.

Answer 1

true

Question 2

Disulfide bonds cannot typically be broken by water.

Answer 2

true

Question 3

You should always perform an elasticity test before perming a client’s hair.

Answer 3

true

Question 4

Alkaline permanent waving solutions tighten the cuticle, causing the hair to contract and curl.

Answer 4

false

Question 5

When perming porous hair, you should use a highly alkaline permanent waving solution.

Answer 5

false

Question 6

In permanent waving, most of the processing takes place toward the end of the processing time, after about 15 to 20 minutes.

Answer 6

false

Question 7

When perming a client’s hair, you should rinse the hair with a strong blast of hot water.

Answer 7

false

Question 8

When wrapping hair for a perm, you should always wrap against the natural growth pattern.

Answer 8

false

Question 9

Normalizing lotions have an acidic pH.

Answer 9

true

Question 10

When performing a hair relaxing service, you should never apply a hydroxide relaxer on hair that has been previously treated with a thio relaxer.

Answer 10

true

Question 11

Compounds made up of carbon, oxygen, hydrogen, nitrogen, and sulfur.

Answer 11

amino acids

Question 12

Strong chemical side bonds formed when the sulfur atoms in two adjacent protein chains are joined together.

Answer 12

disulfide bonds

Question 13

Weak physical side bonds that are the result of an attraction between opposite electrical charges.

Answer 13

hydrogen bonds

Question 14

Long, coiled polypeptide chains.

Answer 14

keratin proteins

Question 15

Chemical bonds that join amino acids together, end-to-end, in long chains.

Answer 15

peptide bonds

Question 16

Long chains of amino acids joined together by peptide bonds.

Answer 16

polypeptide chains

Question 17

Adding wave or curl to the hair is called:

Answer 17

permanent waving

Question 18

The tough exterior layer of the hair structure is called the:

Answer 18

cuticle

Question 19

Which of these is NOT one of the three types of side bonds that cross-link the polypeptide chains that make up the cortex?

Answer 19

nitrogen

Question 20

In the restructuring process, coarse, resistant hair with a strong compact cuticle requires a chemical solution that is:

Answer 20

highly alkaline

Question 21

Which of the side bonds is strongest?

Answer 21

disulfide bonds

Question 22

Hydrogen bonds can be broken by:

Answer 22

water or heat

Question 23

During the client consultation, Citra identifies Holly’s hair as mildly porous. With this in mind, which type of perm would be an appropriate choice for Holly?

Answer 23

acid-balanced wave

Question 24

During the client consultation, Citra discussed the different types of curls that they could achieve, and Holly decided that she would prefer curls that are tighter in the center and looser on the ends. With this in mind, which type of perm rod should Citra use when perming Holly’s hair?

Answer 24

concave rod

Question 25

Citra is using the basic permanent wrap method to perm Holly's hair. As Citra divides Holly's hair into panels, how wide should she make them?

Answer 25

equal to the length of the rod

Question 26

As Citra perms Holly's hair, she should:

Answer 26

check the nape of the neck for excess moisture prior to neutralizing the hair

Question 27

About how long should it take for Holly's hair to process?

Answer 27

less than 20 minutes

Question 28

Breaking the side bonds of the _____ makes it possible to change the natural wave pattern of the hair.

Answer 28

cortex

Question 29

A(n) _____ is a relatively weak physical side bond that is the result of an attraction between negative and positive electrical charges.

Answer 29

salt bond

Question 30

The reduction reaction in permanent waving is due to the addition of _____.

Answer 30

hydrogen

Question 31

In permanent waving, _____ stops the action of the waving solution and rebuilds the hair into its new curly form.

Answer 31

thio neutralization

Question 32

The most common type of perm rods are _____ rods.

Answer 32

concave

Question 33

The _____ wrap is a perm wrap in which one end paper is placed under and another is placed over the strand of hair being wrapped.

Answer 33

double flat

Question 34

When you use _____ placement, you wrap the hair at 45 degrees below the center of the base section.

Answer 34

off-base

Question 35

In a(n) _____ perm wrap, the hair is wrapped at an angle other than perpendicular to the length of the rod.

Answer 35

spiral

Question 36

When using the piggyback technique, you should place the base rod in the middle of the strand and then wrap the strand:

Answer 36

one revolution around the rod while holding the strand to the side of the rod

Question 37

When applying hydroxide relaxer to virgin hair, you should:

Answer 37

apply relaxer to the top of the strand first

Question 38

What will happen if you use a spiral wrap when perming a client's hair?

Answer 38

The size of the curl will remain constant along the entire length of the strand

Question 39

Chemical texture procedures involve changing the structure of the hair:

Answer 39

both physically and chemically

Question 40

The natural pH of hair is between:

Answer 40

4.5 and 5.5

Question 41

Compounds consisting of carbon, oxygen, hydrogen, nitrogen, and sulfur are:

Answer 41

amino acids

Question 42

Peptide bonds are also known as:

Answer 42

end bonds

Question 43

The strongest of the three side bonds are:

Answer 43

disulfide

Question 44

Salt bonds are broken by:

Answer 44

changes in pH

Question 45

Which end paper technique uses one end paper folded in half over the hair ends like an envelope?

Answer 45

bookend wrap

Question 46

Base placement is determined by the:

Answer 46

angle at which the hair is wrapped

Question 47

For _____ placement, the hair is wrapped at a 45-degree angle beyond perpendicular to its base section, and the rod is positioned on its base.

Answer 47

on-base

Question 48

In half off-base placement, the hair is wrapped at an angle of:

Answer 48

90 degrees or perpendicular to the base section

Question 49

A _____ perm wrap is wrapped perpendicular to the length of the rod, in overlapping concentric layers.

Answer 49

spiral

Question 50

The strength of the permanent waving solution is determined primarily by the concentration of:

Answer 50

thio

Question 51

What is the active ingredient in alkaline permanents?

Answer 51

ammonium thioglycolate

Question 52

Cold wave is another term for a(n) _____ wave.

Answer 52

alkaline

Question 53

What is the main active ingredient in true acid and acid-balanced waving lotions?

Answer 53

GMTG

Question 54

True acid waves have a pH between:

Answer 54

4.5 and 7.0

Question 55

A pH of _____ is neutral for hair.

Answer 55

5

Question 56

What kind of waves are sulfites used in?

Answer 56

low-pH

Question 57

What two important functions are performed by the neutralization process?

Answer 57

deactivating waving solution and rebuilding disulfide bonds

Question 58

Thio neutralization rebuilds disulfide bonds by:

Answer 58

removing hydrogen

Question 59

The basic permanent wrap is also known as a:

Answer 59

straight set wrap

Question 60

Which wrapping pattern uses pie-shaped base sections?

Answer 60

curvature permanent wrap

Question 61

The measurement of the thickness or thinness of a liquid that affects how the fluid flows is:

Answer 61

viscosity

Question 62

The neutralizer used with thio relaxers is usually:

Answer 62

hydrogen peroxide

Question 63

Which straightening method combines use of a thio relaxer with flat ironing?

Answer 63

Japanese thermal straightening

Question 64

Hydroxide relaxers remove one atom of sulfur from a disulfide bond, converting it into a _____ bond.

Answer 64

lanthionine

Question 65

Guanidine hydroxide relaxers are advertised and sold as _____ relaxers.

Answer 65

no-lye

Question 66

What is used to protect the skin and scalp during hair relaxing?

Answer 66

base cream

Question 67

The application for a virgin relaxer starts _____ away from the scalp.

Answer 67

1/4-inch to 1/2-inch

Question 68

A _____ is a thio-based chemical service that reformats curly and wavy hair into looser and larger curls and waves.

Answer 68

soft curl permanent

Question 69

A _____ is a conditioner with an acidic pH that conditions hair and restores the natural pH prior to shampooing.

Answer 69

normalizing lotion

Question 70

Generally, keratin straightening treatments eliminate up to what percent of frizz and curl?

Answer 70

95 percent

Question 71

The side bonds of the _____ must be broken in order to change the natural wave pattern of the hair.

Answer 71

cortex

Question 72

Which type of hair requires a highly alkaline chemical solution?

Answer 72

coarse, resistant hair

Question 73

​Polypeptide chains are long chains of amino acids joined together by _____ bonds.

Answer 73

peptide

Question 74

​A _____ bond is NOT a type of side bond.

Answer 74

peptide

Question 75

​Hydrogen bonds can be broken by:

Answer 75

water or heat

Question 76

Disulfide bonds account for about _____ of the hair's overall strength.​

Answer 76

one-third

Question 77

The base direction can be:​

Answer 77

horizontal, vertical, or diagonal

Question 78

The reduction reaction in permanent waving is due to the:

Answer 78

addition of hydrogen

Question 79

Which of these is NOT a component of all exothermic waves?​

Answer 79

​hydroxide relaxer

Question 80

Which type of metal is NOT commonly used to form ionic compounds in metal hydroxide relaxers?

Answer 80

​magnesium (Mg)

Question 81

When the silicone polymers and formalin in keratin-based straightening treatments are heated to high temperatures, they release:

Answer 81

formaldehyde gas

Question 82

An acid-balanced wave has a pH of:

Answer 82

7.0

Question 83

A properly processed permanent wave should break and rebuild approximately _____ percent of the hair's disulfide bonds.​

Answer 83

50

Question 84

​Which type of perm should you recommend if the client has very damaged hair?

Answer 84

true acid wave

Question 85

Underprocessed hair is usually:​

Answer 85

straighter at the scalp and curlier at the ends

Question 86

​What is the primary benefit of ammonia-free waves?

Answer 86

They do not have a strong odor.

Question 87

​The strength of any permanent wave is based on the:

Answer 87

concentration of its reducing agent

Question 88

Overprocessed hair:​

Answer 88

occurs when too many disulfide bonds are broken

Question 89

The first function of thio neutralization is the:​

Answer 89

deactivation of any remaining waving lotion

Question 90

When performing a perm, you should always:

Answer 90

smell the hair after the recommended time has elapsed

Question 91

​A preliminary test curl will NOT answer which of these questions?

Answer 91

Is the client allergic to any of the products that will be used?

Question 92

How long is a typical soft bender rod?

Answer 92

12 inches

Question 93

​Which method of wrapping provides the most control over the hair ends?

Answer 93

double flat wrap

Question 94

With the _____, base sections are offset from each other row by row.

Answer 94

bricklay permanent wrap

Question 95

The _____ uses zigzag partings to divide base areas.

Answer 95

weave technique

Question 96

​The double-rod wrap technique is especially effective on _____ hair.

Answer 96

long

Question 97

When performing a permanent wave, you should:

Answer 97

immediately replace towels that have become wet with solution

Question 98

When performing a test to determine whether metallic salts are present, the hair will _____ in the solution if metallic salts are present.​

Answer 98

​lighten rapidly

Question 99

Thio relaxers use the same ATG that is used in permanent waving, but at a:

Answer 99

​higher concentration and a higher pH

Question 100

​Hydroxide relaxers are:

Answer 100

​very strong alkalis

Question 101

​Which type of relaxers are commonly called lye relaxers?

Answer 101

​sodium hydroxide

Question 102

The sulfites used as low-pH hair relaxers are compatible with:

Answer 102

thio relaxers

Question 103

​It is recommended that you apply base cream when using:

Answer 103

both base relaxers and no-base relaxers

Question 104

A super-strength relaxer is recommended if the client has _____ hair.

Answer 104

extremely curly

Question 105

​When performing a chemical hair relaxing service, it is appropriate to:

Answer 105

conduct periodic strand tests during the service

Question 106

​Which type of wave is activated by an outside heat source, such as a conventional hood-type hair dryer?

Answer 106

endothermic