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Flashcards in Coastal Processes And Waves Deck (15)
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1
Q

What is deposition?

A

When water loses energy (often a reduction in velocity or the amount of water), it drops the rock particles it has been transporting

2
Q

What are the four processes of transportation called?

A

Traction, solution, saltation and suspension

3
Q

Explain the process of traction.

A

Pebbles and larger sediment are rolled along the sea/river bed

4
Q

Explain the process of solution.

A

When salts and other acids in the water dissolve the rocks on the land

5
Q

Explain the process of saltation.

A

Load is bounced along the river or sea bed e.g. small pieces of shingle or large sand grains

6
Q

Explain the process of suspension.

A

Small particles are carried in water e.g. silts and clays, which can make the water look cloudy

7
Q

Name the other way material is transported along the coast.

A

Long shore drift

8
Q

Explain the process of LSD basically.

A

The zig zag movement of material along the beach determined by the dominant wind direction

9
Q

What causes waves?

A

Wind blowing over the surface of the sea creates friction on the waters surface. Energy is transferred

10
Q

What three things determine the size of waves?

A

How strong the wind is
How long the wing has been blowing
The length of fetch

11
Q

What is fetch?

A

Maximum distance of open water over which the wind can blow. Longer fetch equals larger wave

12
Q

What is swash?

A

Waves moving up the beach at an angle

13
Q

What is backwash?

A

Waves coming straight back down the beach under the influence of gravity

14
Q

Which waves have a low height and frequency, strong swash and weak back wash?

A

Constructive waves

15
Q

Which waves have a high height and frequency, strong backwash and weak swash?

A

Destructive waves