Coastal systems and landscapes Flashcards
(154 cards)
What are the inputs to the coastal system?
- Marine (waves, tides, salt spray)
- Atmosphere (sun, air pressure, wind speed and direction)
- Human (pollution, recreation, settlement, defences)
What are the outputs to the coastal system?
- Ocean currents
- Rip tides
- Sediment transfer
- Evaporation
What are the stores in a coastal system?
- Beaches
- Sand dunes
- Spits
- Bars and tombolos
- Headlands and bays
- Nearshore sediment
- Cliffs
- Wave-cut notches/platforms
- Caves/arches/stacks/stumps
- Salt marshes
- Tidal flats
- Offshore bands and bars
What are the flows in the coastal system?
- Wind-blown sand
- Mass movement
- Longshore drift
- Weathering
- Erosion (hydraulic action, corrosion, attrition, abrasion)
- Transportation (bedload, suspension, traction, solution)
- Deposition (gravity settling, flocculation)
What are the sediment sources for the coastal environment?
Rivers, cliff erosion, wind, glaciers, offshore, longshore drift
What are sediment cells?
Sections of the coast bordered by prominent headlands in which the movement of sediment is almost contained and the glows of sediment act in dynamic equilibrium.
What are sediment budgets?
Data from inputs, outputs, stores, and flows is used to assess the gains and losses within a sediment cell.
How are waves formed?
- Winds move across the surface of the water, causing frictional drag which creates small ripples and waves. This leads to a circular orbital motion of water particles in the ocean
- As the seabed becomes shallower towards the coastline, the orbit of the water particles becomes more elliptical, leading to horizontal movement of the waves
- The wave height increases, but the wavelength and wave velocity both decrease
- This causes water to back up from behind the wave until the wave breaks and surges up the beach.
What factors affect wave energy?
Strength of the wind - the larger the pressure gradient between two areas, the stronger the winds.
Duration of the wind - if the wind is active for longer periods, then the energy of the waves will build up
Size of the fetch - the fetch is the distance over which the wind blows, and the larger it is the more powerful the wave
What are the characteristics of constructive waves?
- Formed by weather systems that operate in the open ocean
- Long wavelength
- 6-9 per minute
- Low waves, which surge up the beach
- Swash is stronger than the backwash
- Occurs on gently sloped beaches
What are the characteristics of destructive waves?
- Formed by localised storm events with stronger winds operating closer to the coast
- Short wavelength
- 11-16 per minute
- High waves, which plunge onto the beach
- Swash is weaker than backwash
- Occurs on steeply sloped beaches
What is an example of negative feedback for waves?
The presence of constructive waves causes deposition on the beach, which in turn leads to the beach profile becoming steeper. Steeper beaches favour the formation of destructive waves which are then more likely to occur. The destructive waves erode the beach, reducing the profile and leading to the formation of constructive waves. As constructive waves occur more frequently in the summer, the beach profile is more gentle in the summer and steeper during the winter.
What is the tidal range?
The difference in height between the tides. It tends to be largest in channels such as river estuaries.
When do spring tides occur?
When the sun and the moon are in alignment, so their gravitational forces work together. Spring tides have the largest possible tidal range.
When do neap tides occur?
When the sun and the moon are perpendicular to each other, so their gravitational forces work against each other. Neap tides have the lowest possible tidal range.
How are rip currents formed?
Plunging waves cause a build-up of water at the top of the beach. The backwash is forced under the surface due to resistance from breaking waves, forming an underwater current.
What are high energy coastlines?
High energy coastlines are associated with more powerful waves, so occur in areas where there is a large fetch. They typically have rocky headlands and fairly frequent destructive waves. As a result these coastlines are often eroding as the rate of erosion exceeds the rate of deposition.
What are low energy coastlines?
Low energy coastlines have less powerful waves and occur in sheltered areas where constructive waves prevail and as a result are often sandy. There are landforms of deposition as the rate of deposition exceeds the rate of erosion.
What is wave refraction?
The process by which waves turn and lose energy around a headland or uneven coastline. The wave energy is focussed on the headlands, creating erosive features in these areas. The energy is dissipated in bays leading to the formation of features associated with lower energy environments such as beaches.
What is an example of negative feedback for erosion?
Due to the different rock strengths, erosion leads to the formation of headlands where resistant rock exists and clays where unconsolidated rocks and clays are dominant. This then increases the forces of erosion on the headlands and reduces erosion in the bays, as wave refraction dissipates wave energy and the beach protects the coastline behind.
What is erosion?
Processes which involve the removal of sediment from a coastline
What is abrasion?
Sediment carried by the sea is picked up by strong waves and thrown against the coastline causing more material to be broken off and carried by the sea.
What is attrition?
wave action causes rocks and pebbles to hit against each other, wearing them down and becoming rounder and smaller.
What is hydraulic action?
As waves crash onto a rock or cliff face, air is forced up into cracks, joints and faults within the rock. The high pressure causes the cracks to spread apart. Over time this causes the rock to fracture. Bubbles found within the water by implode under the high pressure creating tiny jets of water that erode the rock (cavitation).