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Physical Geography > Coastal Zone Knowledge > Flashcards

Coastal Zone Knowledge Flashcards

(63 cards)

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1
Q

What three factors effect the size of waves

A

The winds strength
How long the wind blows for
The length of the water the wind blows over (fetch)

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2
Q

What causes a wave to break

A

The friction between the water and the beach

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3
Q

Name the two different types of wave

A

Destructive

Constructive

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4
Q

Which way does the backwash go

A

Away from the beach

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5
Q

Which way does the swash go

A

Up the beach

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6
Q

Give four features if a destructive wave

A

High (in proportion to length)
Backwash is stronger
Frequent waves
Erosion occurs more

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7
Q

Give four features of a constructive waves

A

Low
Deposition occurs more than erosion
Swash is more powerful than the backwash
Less frequent waves

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8
Q

Name the three types of weathering

A

Mechanical
Chemical
Biological

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9
Q

Describe the freeze thaw process

A

Water gets into rocks through pores
The water freezes and expands by 9%
The expansion splits up the rock

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10
Q

Describe exfoliation

A

Large temperatures differences cause the rocks to expand and contract which leads to the top layer flaking off

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11
Q

Why does the rain cause chemical weathering

A

Rocks made up of calcium carbonate is rained on by rain that is naturally slightly acidic dissolves then

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12
Q

What causes waves

A

The friction between the wind and water

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13
Q

Describe biological weathering

A

Plants roots and animal burrows breaking away the cliff

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14
Q

Define mass movement

A

The downhill movement of sediment under the influence of gravity

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15
Q

Describe hydraulic action in a costal environment

A

The waves force water into cracks causing air pockets to compress thus making the cracks break open

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16
Q

Describe abrasion in a costal context

A

Loose rocks and stones are hurled against the cliff

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17
Q

How does longshore drift occur

A

Swash brings sediment up at an angle
Back swash brings it back down at 90 degrees due to gravity
Overall there is movement one way

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18
Q

Why is more sediment depositoed in bays

A

Because the wave energy is much less in bays

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19
Q

What is the name for bands of soft or hard rock

A

Strata

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20
Q

Which two ways can strata be arranged

A

Concordantly or disconcordantly

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21
Q

Bays and headlines are more likely to from at which type of coast

A

Disconcordant

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22
Q

What is a better name for a “bite” out of a cliff

A

A notch

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23
Q

Why do cliffs collapse

A

Erosion creates a notch once this becomes to big the cliff collapses

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24
Q

What does cliff retreat form

A

A wave cut platform

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25
Why are wave cut platforms most often very smooth
Because of abrasion
26
Can headland erode
Yes
27
Describe the formation of an arch
Hydraulic action widens points of weakness in the cliff to form small caves. More erosion still increases the size of the cave until it becomes an arch
28
Describe how an arch can turn into a stump
Overtime more erosion takes place on the arch until it collapses. Forming a stack. The stack is undercut by erosion until it to collapses leaving just a bit if rock above water called a stump
29
What is a beach
An accumulation of sand or shingle
30
What process causes beaches to be formed paticularly in bays
Wave refraction
31
What is a spit
A bank of sand that is off the coastline which has been out there by longshore drift
32
What forms begins a spit
Mudflats
33
What makes a spit more likely to stay
Plants colonising it as the roots bind the sand
34
What forms behind a bar
A freshwater lake or lagoon
35
What is the biggest cause of rising sea levels
Thermal expansion
36
Other than thermal expansion what are two other reasons why sea levels rise
Isostatic change | Melting ice caps
37
Name two small islands that are at risk from sea level rising
Maldives and Tuvalu
38
Name 3 causes of costal flooding and increased costal erosion
Tides (spring tides) Storm surges Waves
39
What three things cause cliff collapse
Weathering Erosion Mass movement
40
What creates a storm surge
An area of low pressure such as a cyclone
41
What is meant by spring tide
A tide that rises greater than usual because the sun and moon are in alignment and so the gravitational force is greater
42
What role does erosion have to play in cliff collapse and which types do it
Hydraulic action and abrasion erode the bass if the cliff
43
What process erodes the top of a cliff
Weathering eg chemical
44
Describe why when the top layer of rock is saturated it can lead to costal erosion
The cliff has gained weight making it more likely to collapse, furthermore more water will run off the cliff and run off the face
45
How do humans increase the chances of cliff collapse
By building
46
Describe four methods used to prevent cliff collapse
Flatten the slopes to prevent mass movement Inserting drainage Place rock armour at the base Putting Geotextiles (which allow water out) on the cliff
47
How much do sea walls cost per km
About £6 million
48
What are the pros of sea walls
Effective and used as a promenade
49
What are the negatives of sea walls
Expansive | Unnatural
50
What specific negatives do groynes have
They interrupt longshore drift and are very ugly
51
What is the cost of groynes and rock armour
Groynes £10,000 each (200m intervals) | Rock armour £1000-£4000 per meter
52
What common advantages do rock armour and groynes have
Fishing, effective
53
How do groynes work
They trap sand and increase the size of the beach meaning more energy is dissipated
54
Where is rock armour often placed
At the foot of the cliff
55
How does beach nourishment work
By adding sand and shingle on to the beach
56
How does dune regeneration work
Martha's grass is planted to build or stabilise dunes which act as a barrier to the water
57
How does Marsh creation work
Allowing coastal areas to become salt marches which are effective costal barriers
58
What are the problems with marsh creation or managed retreat
Loses land meaning that the owners must be compensated
59
Name the four types of dune in order moving from the sea outwards
Embryo dunes Fore dunes Main ridge/ yellow dunes Older dunes / grey dunes
60
What plants may you find on an embryo dune
Sea couch grass
61
Which two types of dune does marram grass grow most commonly
Fire dunes and main ridge
62
What plants may be found on the oldest dunes
Dune Heath, buckthorn
63
Describe as many conditions in which a dune is likely to form
``` Exposed between tides Prevailing onshore wind Fine sand Arid Salt spray Alkaline conditions ```

Physical Geography (17 decks)

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