Coasts Flashcards
(224 cards)
Are coastal environments open or closed systems?
Open
What is dynamic equilibrium?
When there is a balance between the inputs and the outputs of the system.
What are some inputs into a coastal system? (4)
- Energy from waves, wind, tides and sea currents.
- Sediment.
- Geology of coastline.
- Sea level change.
What are components of a coastal system?
- Erosional landforms and landscapes.
- Depositional landforms and landscapes.
What are some outputs of a coastal system? (3)
- Dissipation of wave energy.
- Accumulation of sediment above the tidal limit.
- Sediment removed beyond local sediment cells.
What are antecedent conditions?
The previous conditions.
What provides most of the energy in a coastal system?
Breaking waves.
Do erosional coastlines have more of less energy than depositional coastlines?
More energy.
What is negative feedback and what is an example of it?
Negative feedback is when an action leads to something becoming less that it was before; this could be a good or a bad thing.
- A decrease in wave energy could lead to deposition of sediment offshore, further reducing wave energy.
What is positive feedback and what is an example of it?
Positive feedback is when an action leads to something becoming more than it was before; this could be a good or bad thing.
- An increase in wave energy could scour the seabed, deepening the water and allowing more energy to enter the location.
What is steady state equilibrium?
A situation where variations in energy and the morphological response do not deviate too far from the long-term average.
What is meta-stable equilibrium?
This exists when an environment switches from two or more states of equilibrium however usually will go back to the normal state of equilibrium.
What is the backshore?
The backshore is the area between the high water mark and the landward limit of marine activity. Changes normally take place here only during storm activity.
What is the foreshore?
The foreshore is the area lying between the high water mark and the low water mark. Is it the most important zone for marine processes in times that are not influenced by storm activity.
What is the inshore?
The inshore is the area between the low water mark and the point where the waves cease to have any influence on the land beneath them.
What is the offshore?
The offshore is the area beyond the point where waves cease to impact upon the seabed and in which activity is limited to deposition of sediments.
What is the nearshore and what does it consist of?
The nearshore is the area extending seaward from the high water mark to the area where waves begin to break.
It includes the swash zone, surf zone and breaker zone.
What is the swash zone?
The swash zone is the area where a turbulent layer of water washes up the beach following the breaking of a wave.
What is the surf zone?
The surf zone is the area between the point where waves break, forming a foamy, bubbly surface, and where the waves then move up the beach as swash in the swash zone.
What is the breaker zone?
The breaker zone is the area where waves approaching the coastline begin to break, usually where the water depth is 5 to 10m.
How are cliffs and wave cut platforms formed?
- Cliffs form as the sea erodes the land. Over time, cliffs retreat due to the action of the waves and weathering.
- Weathering and wave erosion cause a notch to form at the HWM. This eventually develops into a cave.
- Rock above the cave becomes unstable and collapses.
- Wave cut platforms are flat surfaces left behind when a cliff is eroded.
How are simple spits formed?
- Longshore drift deposits material across the river mouth, leaving a bank of sand and shingle sticking into the sea.
- A stright spit that grows roughly parallel to the coast is a simple spit.
What is an example of a simple spit?
Spurn Point
How are compound spits formed?
- A recurved end may form due to changes in wind and wave direction.
- Several recurved ends may be abandoned. A spit that has multiple recurved ends from several periods of growth are compound spits.