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Human geography > Coasts > Flashcards

Coasts Flashcards

(64 cards)

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1
Q

what 2 things work together at a coast

A

lithosphere and hydrosphere

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2
Q

what is the lithosphere

A

crust and uppermost mantle continuing the hardened rigid over layer of the Earth

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3
Q

what is the hydrosphere

A

Layer of water near the earths surface

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4
Q

what is input

A

what arrives in a system

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5
Q

what is output

A

what leaves the system and moves across boundaries

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6
Q

what do boundaries do

A

separate areas of coastline

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7
Q

what’s part of input in costal open system

A

sediment carried by river and waves, wind generated waves, precipitation

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8
Q

what takes place an output in open costal system

A

eroded material taken out to sea, ocean currents and evaporation

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9
Q

what takes place in transfers in the open coastal system?

A

transportation processes, longshore drift mass movement, wind blow blown sand

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10
Q

What takes place in the stores part of the open coastal system?

A

beaches
cliffs
dunes

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11
Q

what is dynamic equilibrium

A

State of balance where inputs are equal to outputs in a system that is constantly changing

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12
Q

what is feedback?

A

Automatic response to a change with an system

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13
Q

what is positive feedback?

A

Leads to further change for example, increasing wave energy could scour the sea bed deepening water allowing more wave energy to enter location increasing wave energy further

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14
Q

What is negative feedback?

A

Reduces the effective change for example decrease and wave energy entering the coast zone could lead to deposition of sediment offshore further reducing wave energy as it’s lost a friction

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15
Q

What is a landform?

A

Geographic feature on the surface of the Earth

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16
Q

what is landscape

A

part of the Earth surface

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17
Q

what is the fetch of a wave

A

the distance that the wind blows across water

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18
Q

what is the swash of a wave

A

movement of water up the beach

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19
Q

what is the backwash of a wave

A

movement of water down the beach

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20
Q

what is the crest of a wave

A

top of a wave

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21
Q

what is the trough

A

bottom of wave

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22
Q

what is wavelength

A

Distance between two crests or two troughs

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23
Q

what is velocity

A

The speed that wave is travelling it is influenced by the wind fetch and depth of water

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24
Q

wave frequency

A

How many waves there are per minute?

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25
What is wave refraction?
the bending of waves as they approach a coastline at an angle, caused by the slowing down of the wave as it enters shallower water, leading to a redistribution of wave energy along the coast
26
what happens when waves diverge
loose power and drop sediment
27
wave energy becomes concentrated on headland causing greater erosion and features
.
28
what are rip currents
Strong, localised underwater currents that occur on some beaches posing danger, swimmers and surfers. They are found in a series of plunging waves cause a temporary buildup water at the top of the beach.
29
What is the current?
The permanent or seasonal movement of surface water in sea is in oceans
30
what is upwelling
is an oceanographic phenomenon where wind-driven motion causes dense, cooler, and nutrient-rich water from deep ocean layers to rise towards the surface, replacing warmer, nutrient-depleted surface water.
31
what is a tide
Periodic rise and fall of the level of sea in repo to the gravitational puddle of the Sun around the moon
32
what are the causes of tides?
moon pulling water
33
What are spring tides?
Twice in a lunar month when the sun moon and earth are in a straight line, the tide raising force is as as lowest point producing highest monthly tide
34
what are neap tides?
twice a month for the Moon and son are positioned at 90° in relation to the Earth. This alignment gives the lowest monthly title ranges called tides gravitational pull is less effective.
35
how are waves formed
wind blowing across the water's surface, creating friction that generates ripples which then develop into larger waves
36
properties of destructive waves
- local storms generate them - high plunging waves - short wavelength - weak swash strong backwash - beach loss destructive - associated with steep beach profile but over time will flatten it out
37
properties of constructive waves
- distant weather systems generate them - low plunging waves - long wavelength - strong swash weak backwash - beach gain constructive - associated with flat beach profile but over time will get steeper
38
what are rip currents
strong localised under water currents that occur on some beaches
39
how are rip currents formed
lots of plunging waves causing a build up of water at the top of the beach met with resistance from breaking waves the backwash is forced bellow the surface
40
what type of environment are rocky coastlines found in
high energy coastlines
41
what is former high energy environment and why
headlands bays wave cut platforms when erosion exceeds deposition
42
what are formed low energy environments and why
beaches dunes etc when deposition exceeds erosion
43
what is wave refraction
distortion of wave fronts as they approach an intended shoreline
44
at a more localised scale in wave refraction what happens
high and low energy environments
45
what does wave refraction cause
energy to be concentrated at headlands and dissipated at bays causing erosive and deposition features
46
what type of feedback can be seen operating due to wave refraction
negative feedback as variations in rock strength cause the wave refraction to encourage eruption and deposition working against original soft rock
47
what is traction
rolling of sediment along sea bed as it’s too heavy to be carried by flow of water
48
what is saltation
sediment bounced along sea bed as its light enough to be picked up but too heavy to remain in the flow of water
49
what is suspension
smaller lighter sediment picked up by flow of water
50
what is solution
chemicals dissolved in water transported and precipitated elsewhere
51
what are the factors that affect transportation
velocity of water and partial size high/ low energy environments
52
what is longshore drift
movement of sediment along a coastline due to angle of waves
53
how does longshore drift work?
waves approach the beach and angle due to prevailing wind as waves advance material is carried up the beach backwash pulls material down the beach at a right angle to the shore
54
what is the importance of longshore drift
is an important flow of mechanism responsible for movement of sediment along a coastline and out to sea
55
what’s the issue with management to prevent LSD
can lead to distortion of natural patterns depriving beaches further along the coast of material meaning they are more vulnerable to erosion
56
what is costal deposition
takes place when water and wind velocity falls bellow a critical value for a size of particular when can no longer be transported
57
exposed parts of the beach will be transported away leaving larger pebbles to form shingle beaches
58
low energy environments impact costal deposition because..
small particles drop to seabed to form things like mudflats and underwater sandbanks
59
what are sed
areas of
60
definition of sediment cell
distinct area of coastline depressed from other areas by well defined boundaries such as headlands and stretches of deep water
61
sources of sediment
streams ruvers cliff erosion estuaries offshore sand banks wind dead organisms crushed cells
62
sediment sinks
dunes spits bars tombolos beaches offshore bars
63
definition of a sediment budget
balance between sediment being added and removed from the costal system being within each individual sediment cell
64

Human geography (12 decks)

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