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Coasts Flashcards

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1
Q

Dynamic equilibrium

A

State of balance where inputs equal outputs in system that is continually changing

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2
Q

Amount of energy in a wave is dependent on:

A
  • strength of wind
  • duration it blows for
  • length of fetch
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3
Q

Destructive waves

A
  • weak swash, strong backwash
  • high, plunging
  • short wavelength
  • erosive
  • steep beach profile
  • from local storms
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4
Q

Tides exist because of:

A

Gravitational pull of moon and sun on earth

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5
Q

Rip current

A

Build up of water due to waves at top of beach trying to return to sea

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6
Q

Constructive waves

A
  • from distant weather systems
  • low, surging
  • long wavelength
  • strong swash, weak backwash
  • depositional
  • gentle beach profile
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7
Q

Tidal range

A

Relative distance in height between high and low tide

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8
Q

Types of tides

A

Spring - sun and moon in line with earth - large tidal range - high high tides and low low tides

Neap - moon and sun at right angles to earth - small tidal range - low high tides and high low tides

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9
Q

High energy coastline

A
  • rocky landscapes

- rate of erosion exceeds rate of deposition - erosional landforms

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10
Q

Low energy coastlines

A
  • sandy and estuarine coasts

- rate of deposition exceeds rate of erosion - depositional landforms

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11
Q

Wave refraction

A

Distortion of wave fronts as they approach an indented shoreline
- energy concentrated at headlands and dissipated at bays - erosional features at headlands and depositional at bays

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12
Q

Sources of sediment

A
  • rivers
  • cliff erosion
  • longshore drift
  • wind
  • glaciers
  • offshore
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13
Q

Sediment cell

A

Stretch of coastline, usually bordered by two headlands, where movement of sediment is relatively self contained

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14
Q

Mechanical weathering

A

Breakdown of rock without any chemical changes taking place

  • freeze thaw
  • salt crystallisation
  • wetting & drying
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15
Q

Biological weathering

A

Breakdown of rock by organic activity

  • animals burrowing into cliffs
  • plant roots
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16
Q

Chemical weathering

A

Breakdown of rock involving a chemical reaction

  • carbonation
  • oxidation
  • solution
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17
Q

Mass movement

A
  • downhill movement of material under influence of gravity
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18
Q

Types of mass movement (7)

A
  • soil creep
  • mudflows
  • landslide
  • rockfall
  • landslip
  • runoff
  • soilfluction
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19
Q

Hydraulic action

A
  • air may become trapped in cracks in cliff face - when wave breaks, trapped air is compressed which weakens cliff causing erosion
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20
Q

Wave quarrying

A
  • action of waves breaking against unconsolidated material like sand - waves scoop out loose material
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21
Q

Corrasion

A
  • material and pebbles being picked up by sea and hurled at cliff
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22
Q

Abrasion

A
  • sandpapering effect as sediment is dragged up and down shoreline creating smooth surface
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23
Q

Solution

A
  • weak acids in seawater dissolve alkaline rock
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24
Q

Attrition

A
  • pebbles grind against each other making them smaller and more rounded
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25
Factors affecting coastal erosion
- waves - wind - lithology
26
Transportation processes
Traction - rolling of sediment too heavy Saltation - sediment bouncing along seabed Suspension - smaller sediment carried in water Solution - dissolved load transported
27
Erosional landforms
- Cave - Arch - Stack - Stump - Wave cut notch - Wave cut platform - Cliff - Headlands & bays
28
Depositional landforms
- Spit - Beach - Tombolo - Bars - Sand dunes - Barrier beaches
29
Types of beaches
Swash aligned | Drift aligned
30
Eustatic sea level change
- global changes in sea level due to atmosphere
31
Examples of soft engineering
- Beach nourishment - Dune stabilisation / regeneration - Beach recycling - Managed retreat - Beach re-profiling - Salt marsh creation
32
Examples of hard engineering
- Sea Walls - Gabions - Revetments - Groynes - Riprap - Tidal barriers
33
Isostatic sea level change
- local changes in sea level due to movement of earth's crust
34
Epeirogeny
- tilting of earth's crust - allows sea level to change locally
35
Submergent landforms
- Rias - Fjords - Dalmatian Coastlines - Drowned forests - Shingle Ridges
36
Emergent landforms
- Raised beaches - Relic / Abandoned coastlines - Base level changes / Rejuvenation
37
Mudflats
- areas where tidal waters flow slowly
38
Salt Marshes
- where mud flats are sufficiently stable to support vegetation
39
Factors affecting beach profile
- wave energy | - wave type
40
Positive feedback
Enhances changes - more unstable and less equilibrium
41
Negative feedback
Dampens changes - holds system in equilibrium
42
Morphological system
Variables affect each other - e.g. beach size affects LSD
43
Cascading system
Chain - one thing has direct impact on another
44
Isolated system
No interaction with anything beyond boundary
45
Sources of energy
Wind Waves Currents Tides
46
Two types of sediment
Clastic - from rock weathering and erosion | Biogenic - shells and skeletons of marine organisms
47
Concordant coastline
Orientation parallel to coast - hard rock protects soft rock
48
Discordant coastline
Orientation at right angles to sea - alternating layers of hard and soft rock
49
Influences on the coastline (7)
``` Geology Beach presence Human activity Type of wave Coastal configuration Fetch Sea Depth ```
50
Geo
Steep sided inlet on side of the coast
51
Blowhole
Joint between sea cave and surface above is enlarged and air can pass through - water expelled through hole
52
Berms
Represent different tidal levels up beach
53
Tombolo
Ridge of sand or shingle formed between small island and mainland
54
Offshore Bar
Submerged ridge of sand created by waves offshore from coast - deposited offshore
55
Sand dune succession (5)
``` Embryo Dune Fore/Yellow Dune Grey Dune Dune Slack Mature Dune ```
56
Causes of sea level change
Increase / decrease in height of land - isostatic Depression of earth's crust by ice sheet which rebounds - isostatic Change of volume in oceans - eustatic Changes in climate - sea rise Tectonic movements
57
Landforms of sea level change (3 of each)
Submergent: Rias, Fjords, Dalmatian Coastline Emergent: Raised Beaches, Abandoned Coastlines, Rejuvenation
58
Ria
Submerged river valley - lower parts drowned but higher parts exposed - Kingsbridge Estuary, Devon
59
Fjord
Submerged glacial valley - formed when glaciers eroded below sea level - Milford Sounds Fjord, New Zealand
60
Dalmatian Coastline
Form where valleys lie parallel - tops remain exposed and appear to be series of islands parallel to coast - Dalmatian Coast, Croatia
61
Raised Beaches
Areas of former wave cut platforms - beaches higher than present coastline - Little Gruinard, Ullapool
62
Abandoned Coastline
Coastal features no longer interact with coast | - St Andrews Coastline, Scotland
63
Rejuvenation
River erosive process rejuvenated when sea level falls | - River Wear, Durham
64
Soft engineering types (6)
- Beach Nourishment - Dune Regeneration - Beach Recycling - Managed Retreat - Beach Re-Profiling - Salt Marsh Creation
65
Hard engineering types (6)
- Sea Walls - Gabions - Revetments - Groynes - Riprap - Tidal Barrier

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