Colour

Question 1

What is the colour wheel?

Answer 1

As hairdressers we put the information together with the “Colour wheel”. It is important to know which colour sits opposite each other. For example; if colour is too yellow we know that we need to use purple to cancel the yellow- this is why we use purple shampoo.

Question 2

Primary colours

Answer 2

Red
Blue
Yellow

Question 3

Secondary colours

Answer 3

Yellow + Red = Orange
Red + Blue = Purple
Blue + Yellow = green

Question 4

Primary, Secondary and Tertiary Colours

Answer 4

Red –> Vermillion –> Orange –> Amber –> Yellow
Yellow –> Chartreuse –> Green –> Aquamarine –>Blue
Blue – > Indigo –> Violet –> Violet Red - Red

Question 5

Inside a Hair

Answer 5

Outer layer= cuticle layer
Inner layer = cortex
Middle = medulla (not everyone has this)

The cortex is where the chemical changes take place during colouring and perming

Question 6

Hair Colour Pigments

Answer 6

The colour pigment melanin is produced in the cortex by melanocytes

There are two types of melanin:
Eumelanin (black/brown pigment)

Pheomelanin (red/yellow pigment)

Question 7

What is Depth?

Answer 7

the lightness or darkness of your hair.

Question 8

What is Tone?

Answer 8

Tone refers to the colours we see in the hair – be they natural colours or artificially added. Tonal colours are classed as warm, neutral or cool

Question 9

Colour pigment

Answer 9

Pheomelanin is mainly responsible for the underlying tones found within hair. When going lighter in colour, certain natural tones called undertones will be apparent. These are important to identify when analysing hair colour during a consultation, as the primary undertone will influence final hair colour. In certain cases these may need to be bleached, or counteracted with an opposing tone from the colour wheel, in order to achieve a target colour. (again, if hair is too yellow we use purple to counteract the yellow.)

Question 10

Using a Colour Chart

Answer 10

As hairdressers we use a colour chart to help us with our colour choices.

At the start of every colour chart you will see numbers from 1 to 10. This number is to identify the “natural base colour” . To identify how dark or light the hair is.

The second number is the tone.
(If there is a third number this is weaker than the other numbers).

Question 11

ICC = International Colour Chart

Answer 11

What the numbers mean;

All hair colours are numbered on a level system between 1 and 10; as the number gets higher, the colour gets lighter. For example, level 1 is black, level 5 is medium brown, and level 10 is lightest blonde.(at this stage we are only looking at the first number between 1 to 10). Eg; 2/0, 3/0 etc. This is known as the base shade.

Question 12

Identifying natural hair depth

Answer 12

10 Lightest blonde
  9 Very light  blonde
  8 Light blonde
  7 Blonde
  6 Dark blonde
  5 Light brown
  4 Brown
  3 Dark brown
  2 Darkest  brown
  1 Black

The ICC (International Colour
Chart) uses a number system
(1-10) to identify the depth

1 is the darkest and
10 is the lightest

Question 13

Temporary Colours

Answer 13

Larger colour molecules coat the surface of the cuticle

Remain on the hair until the next shampoo

Do not chemically change the hair
Add tone and depth

Question 14

Semi-Permanent Colours

Answer 14

Small molecules penetrate the cuticle and enter the cortex
Do not chemically change the hair

Add tone and depth only

Cover a small percentage of white hair and help blend larger percentage

Skin testing may be recommended by manufacturer
Last up to 6-8 washes

Question 15

Quasi-Permanent Colours

Answer 15

Small molecules penetrate the cortex
Mixed with low-level hydrogen peroxide

Add tone, darken, cover or blend a percentage of white
Clients will experience colour fade and a regrowth may appear
Lasts up to 24-26 washes

Skin test is required

Question 16

Permanent Colours

Answer 16

Small molecules are oxidised in the cortex to form permanent coloured molecules

Mixed with hydrogen peroxide

Add tone, darken, lighten and cover 100% white hair
Lasts…. permanently!

A skin test is required

Question 17

How Permanent colours work

Answer 17

Permanent colour molecules are small so they can enter the hair. When mixed with peroxide this causes them to swell and become big molecules so once they are inside the cortex they are then too big to escape. Trapped! PERMANENTLY inside the hair.

This is a process called “oxidisation”
Oxygen (from peroxide) causes the colour molecule to swell.

When mixing peroxide with Permanent colour it is mixed 1;1 ratio

eg; 30mls colour with 30 mls peroxide.

Always follow Manufacturers instructions

Question 18

Wella Tone Numbers :’)

Answer 18

ASH = 1
GREEN = /2
YELLOW = /3
ORANGE = /43 OR /34
RED = /4
VIOLET = /6
BLUE = /8

/5 falls between red and violet
/9 falls between violet and blue- wella call it cedre

Question 19

Peroxide and its uses

Answer 19

In order to get colour to enter the Cortex we need to mix it with a developer.
Developers are hydrogen peroxide.
This comes in different strengths depending on what we want to do .

Question 20

What Does Vol or % Mean?

Answer 20

VOL = Actual oxygen released
present
% = Amount of hydrogen peroxide

Question 21

Hydrogen peroxide

Answer 21

for Permanent hair colours, We use;
6% (also known as 20vol)
9% (also known as 30vol)
12% (also known as 40 vol)

Question 22

Using Peroxide

Answer 22

To limit damage to the hair it is always best to use the lowest strength you can. Only use 9% or 12% when you really have to, to get the levels of lift you want.

When adding colour in (rather than lifting colour out) use either 4% or 6% with permanent tint.

Question 23

What happens when you use too strong of a peroxide?

Answer 23

When too strong a peroxide is used the cuticle is damaged and this can result in colours fading - colour molecules escape out of the open cuticle.

Question 24

Developers For Quasi colours

Answer 24

Quasi colours are colours which last up to 24 washes. These are great for adding Tone. They are mixed with much lower level peroxides. Either 1.9% or 4% only.

These are mixed 2;1 with Quasi colour -eg; 30mls colour to 60mls developer.

(Quasi colours dont cover grey hair very wel)

In the Wella range the blue labels are peroxides for permanent colours and the red labels are for Quasi colours.

Question 25

White Hair

Answer 25

When the melanocytes stop producing melanin, the result is white hair. A mix of white hair and pigmented hair makes the hair appear grey. We measure the amount of white hair as a percentage.

Question 26

Percentage of white hair

Answer 26

If a client has 25% white hair we need to use 25% of the natural base shade to cover the white hairs. If a client has 50% white hair then we need to use 50% natural base shade to cover the white hair. If a client has 75% (or above) white hair then we need to use 75% natural base to cover the white hairs.

Question 27

High Lift Tint

Answer 27

Indicated by a depth number level of a 11 or 12 The lightest achievable level from normal tint is a 10 Special blonde colours are corrective giving up to 4 levels of lift When using special blonde high lift tints on a full head application, please develop for a full 60 minutes Corrective tone is only deposited in the last ten minutes of development! This means that all you get before is just lifted undertone . So it is really important to time development accurately.

Question 28

Lighteners

Answer 28

The Lightner we use is the Wella Blondor Bleach. It is a blue powder bleach. This is then mixed with developer. Either 6%,9%,12% depending on the results you want to achieve. Mixed with hydrogen peroxide (adds oxygen) Remove or diffuse the colour pigment in the hair Can lift up to 7 levels

Question 29

Lightening hair and Undertones;

Answer 29

When we think of lightening hair we need to understand the “undertone” in hair. These are tones which become exposed at each stage of lightening hair.

Question 30

Toning

Answer 30

Toners are used to neutralise unwanted tone or add tone to pre-lightened hair. Each manufacturer will recommend colour products from their temporary, semi-permanent, quasi-permanent and permanent colour ranges, which can be used to tone the hair.

Question 31

Undertones

Answer 31

When lightening hair we need to know which “UNDERTONE” will be exposed. Make yourself familiar with this scale so you know what to expect. (Please check Slide 'UNIT 207 COLOUR- SESSION 3' to see the scale)

Question 32

What would happen if you ran out of 6%/20vol Peroxide

Answer 32

There may be times when you need to know how to dilute peroxide. If you have 12%/40 vol peroxide you could turn this into 6%/20 vol simply by diluting with water. Example: 40 vol diluted to 10vol, how many parts water/peroxide? 3 parts water with only 1 part peroxide. 40-30=10 In otherwords 3-1 =4

Question 33

Diluting questions

Answer 33

``` 30 vol dilute to 10 vol? 40 vol dilute to 30 vol? 20 vol dilute to 10 vol? 30 vol dilute to 20 vol? 40 vol dilute to 20 vol? 40 vol dilute to 10 vol? ```

Question 34

Skin Tests

Answer 34

Why? To Check for an Allergic Reaction to Colour When? 24/48 Hours Before a Colour service How? Clean the area to be tested, this ensures there are no other chemicals that the client may be allergic too, use a cotton wool bud with a small amount of product, then place on the skin Positive result: Reaction may include: redness, swelling, itching

Question 35

Incompatibility Tests

Answer 35

Why: To test for metallic salts on the hair When: Before a colour service if you suspect colour on hair contains metallic salts How: Place a small cutting of hair in the solution and wait. If heat is given off, the lotion fizzes and the hair breaks, dissolves or changes colour Positive result: Discoloration, heat, bubbles or hair breakage

Question 36

Porosity Tests

Answer 36

Why: to test the cuticle layer to identify if the cuticles are smooth or rough When: Before the colour service ``` How: Run the thumb and finger along a strand of hair (points to roots) ``` Results: Hair feels rough (cuticle is open/hair is porous) Hair feels smooth (cuticle is closed)

Question 37

Elasticity Tests

Answer 37

Why: To assess any damage to the internal structure of the hair (the cortex) When: Before the colour service How: Gently pull a few strands of wet hair and check result Results: checks the condition of the cortex, the tensile strength of the hair

Question 38

Colour Tests

Answer 38

Why: to check if the client's skin will react to the chemicals in the colouring product When: Before the colour service ``` How: Can be carried out on the head or using a cutting of hair The intended colour is mixed, applied, developed and removed ``` Results: Required result achieved Required result not achieved

Question 39

Strand Tests

Answer 39

Why: To monitor the colour development and the condition of the hair When: During the development of the colour How: Gently wipe the product away from strands of hair Results: helps you determine the final colour results, so theres are no suprises when you dye your full head

Question 40

Hair Colour problems and solutions: | Colour fades quickly

Answer 40

Cause: Incorrect peroxide used Uneven porosity and insufficient development Poor homecare maintenance Solution: Pre-treat the hair and recolour if the condition allows; recommend shampoo and conditioner for colour- treated hair and good homecare maintenance

Question 41

Hair Colour problems and solutions | Result is too Light

Answer 41

Cause: Incorrect peroxide used Incorrect colour choice Solution: Reassess the depth of the hair and recolour if the condition of hair and scalp allows; recommend good homecare maintenance

Question 42

Hair Colour problems and solutions | Colour result too dark

Answer 42

Cause: Incorrect colour choice Hair too porous Peroxide strength too low Solution: Refer client for specialist colour correction

Question 43

Hair Colour problems and solutions | Stained skin `

Answer 43

Cause: Poor application Failure to emulsify when removing colour Solution: Gently apply stain remover at the backwash Note some clients are sensitive to stain remover

Question 44

Hair Colour problems and solutions | Insufficient coverage of white hair

Answer 44

``` Cause: Incorrect product selection Insufficient product used Colour not applied evenly Not left on long enough Poor analysis of percent of white hair ``` Solution: Select suitable products and recolour if the condition of hair and scalp allows; follow manufacturer’s instructions for development on white hair

Question 45

Hair Colour problems and solutions | Deterioration of hair condition

Answer 45

``` Cause: Overlapping Colouring hair too frequently Strength of peroxide used too high Over-processing ``` Solution: Intensive treatment to improve the condition and advise client to have the hair cut

Question 46

Hair Colour problems and solutions | Product seepage

Answer 46

Cause: Too much hair in the packet or foil (e.g. sections not precise) Too much product on the section Incorrect handling during application and processing Excessive heat causing the colour to expand in the foil/packet Solution If condition allows spot colour affected areas

Question 47

Hair Colour problems and solutions | Uneven/patchy colour

Answer 47

``` Cause: Poor application Poor mixing of product Sections too large Overlapping, causing colour build-up Insufficient development ``` Solution: Spot colour

Question 48

Hair Colour problems and solutions | Result too warm

Answer 48

Cause: Incorrect peroxide used Incorrect colour selection Insufficient development Solution: Apply ash toner (green to neutralise red, blue to neutralise copper or violet to neutralise yellow)