Colour Flashcards
Where does permanent colour sit on hair shaft?
Penetrates deep into the cortex (middle layer) and permanently alters the natural pigment.
Where does quasi colour sit on hair shaft?
Sits mostly in the cortex, but fades after 18 to 24 washes as it doesn’t fully alter the natural pigment.
Where does semi-permanent colour sit on hair shaft?
Coats the cuticle (outer layer) and slightly enters the cortex, washing out gradually.
Where does temporary colour sit on hair shaft?
Sits on top of the cuticle, acting like a stain that washes out after one or two shampoos.
Where does lightener/bleach sit on hair shaft?
Enters the cortex, breaking down natural melanin to lighten the hair permanently.
10 VOL (3%)
Darkening
Deposit Only
◦ Used for toning, darkening, or refreshing colour without lightening.
◦ Ideal for semi-permanent or quasi-permanent colours.
20 VOL (6%)
Darkening
Grey Coverage & 1-2 Levels of Lift
◦ Standard choice for permanent colour to cover grey hair.
◦ Lifts natural hair 1-2 levels when lightening.
30 VOL (9%)
Red Colouring
2-3 Levels of Lift
◦ Used with permanent colour or bleach for a lighter result.
◦ Helps achieve brighter, more vibrant colours or lighter highlights.
40 VOL (12%)
Lightening
3-4+ Levels of Lift
◦ Used for high-lift tints or bleach when significant lightening is needed.
◦ Should be used with caution as it can cause more damage.
When colouring grey hair, what considerations need to be taken into account?
Grey hair is often coarser and more resistant to colour, requiring stronger formulas or longer processing times.
Which developer should you use for grey hair?
Use 20 VOL (6%) for full coverage and better pigment deposit.
What type of shade should be used on grey hair?
Use a Natural Base Shade – Mix with a natural (N) shade to ensure full grey coverage, as fashion tones alone may not cover completely.
How to apply colour on grey hair
Section & Saturate Well – Apply colour thoroughly to ensure even coverage, especially in stubborn areas.
How long should you let grey hair process?
Allow the full development time (usually 35-45 minutes) to help the colour take properly.
Aftercare recommendations for grey hair.
Recommend colour-safe shampoos and conditioners to maintain vibrancy and prevent fading.
What happens if you use too much or too little developer?
Too much developer = weaker colour, uneven coverage.
Too little developer = thicker mix, poor penetration.
What’s the usual ratio for permanent colour mixing?
Usually 1:1 or 1:1.5 (one part colour, one or 1.5 parts developer).
What’s the usual ratio for high-light colour mixing?
Often 1:2 (one part colour, two parts developer) for more lift.
What’s the ratio for bleach mixing?
Can vary (1:1, 1:1.5, or 1:2), depending on the desired consistency and lift.
What 6 things do you want to talk to client about during a colour consultation?
1.Client’s Hair History – Ask about previous colour, bleach, or chemical treatments to avoid unwanted reactions.
- Natural Hair Colour & Grey Percentage – Helps choose the right shade and developer strength.
- Desired Colour Result – Understand the client’s expectations and explain what’s achievable.
- Skin Test (Patch Test) – Required 48 hours before to check for allergies.
- Hair Condition & Porosity – Check for damage, dryness, or uneven porosity, which affects how the colour processes.
- Maintenance & Aftercare – Advise on upkeep, including how often touch-ups are needed and which products to use.
How to remove Permanent Colour
Use Colour Remover:
◦ Breaks down permanent colour.
◦ Follow with a clarifying shampoo and deep conditioner.
How to remove Semi-Permanent Colour
Clarifying Shampoo:
◦ Wash hair multiple times with clarifying shampoo to fade the colour faster.
How to remove Bleach & Lightener
Colour Remover:
◦ Helps remove or adjust lightener mistakes.
◦ Toning may be needed to fix brassiness.
How to remove Temporary Colour
Shampoo:
◦ Temporary colours wash out after a few shampoos.
◦ Use clarifying shampoo for faster removal.
