Exam 1 Flashcards
(198 cards)
1
Q
65% of apparel goods in the United States are:
A
Imported
2
Q
What are the issues with most of the United States’s goods being imported?
A
Currency fluctuations, production delays, high transportation costs, striking workers at ports and factories, customs hold ups, political unrest
3
Q
How textiles are packaged to be sold
A
Put-up
4
Q
Pieces less than 40 yards in length and are typically purchased by jobbers (who buy excess/run)
A
Shorts
5
Q
What are the primary sources of fabrics?
A
Mills, converters, importers, jobbers, retailers, and overseas agents
6
Q
Sell directly to the customer
A
Retailers
7
Q
What are a few facts about the US textile industry?
A
- It is a domestic-to-large import industry.
- The sales is $60 billion.
- The United States trades internationally with over 150 countries.
8
Q
Finished goods
A
Griege goods
9
Q
What are private label goods?
A
Example: All GAP tags say “GAP.”
10
Q
What is the range of textile market planning (retail selling)?
A
1.5 to 2 years from retail
11
Q
How long ahead of retail are finished product lines presented?
A
6 months
12
Q
Selling seasons are typically _______ or _______ for apparel goods.
A
Fall; spring
13
Q
What is Fair Trade?
A
Indicates that a product was produced:
- without labor exploitation
- using environmentally sustainable practices
- negotiated with fair prices
14
Q
What are the 2 major international groups that promote fair trade?
A
- Fair Trade Labeling Organizations
2. International Federation for Alternative Trade
15
Q
Fabric has plant sources
A
Cellulosic
16
Q
Fiber has animal sources
A
Protein
17
Q
Fiber has chemical sources
A
Synthetic
18
Q
Describe natural fibers.
A
- found existing in nature
- come from plants or animals
19
Q
What are examples of natural fibers?
A
Cotton, hemp, cashmere
20
Q
Describe manufactured fibers.
A
Produced from chemical solutions that are forced through a spinerrete
21
Q
What are the three methods for producing manufactured fibers?
A
Dry spinning, wet spinning, melt spinning
22
Q
What is the dry spinning method for manufactured fibers?
A
The fiber is mixed with a solvent, the solution is forced through the spinerette into warm air, and the solvent evaporates and the fiber hardens.
23
Q
What is the wet spinning method for manufactured fibers?
A
The fiber solution is forced through the spinerette and then into a liquid solution, and the solution causes the fiber streams to harden into filaments.
24
Q
What is the melt spinning method for manufactured fibers?
A
The solid is melted into a liquid and forced through the spinerette into cool air to harden.
25
Fiber whose lengths are measured in inches
Staple
26
Fibers who lengths are measured in lengths up to miles
Filament
27
What is the difference between staple and filament fibers?
Staple fibers are short, filament fibers are long, and most staple fibers are natural, whereas filament fibers are synthetic.
28
True or false: staple fibers will never be a filament fiber, but filament fibers can be staple fibers.
True
29
Which is more expensive per pound to produce: staple or filament fibers?
Filament
30
The bends and twists along the length of a fiber that increases resiliency, bulk, warmth, elongation, absorbency, and skin comfort
Crimp
31
Which fiber is the only one with naturally occurring crimp?
Wool
32
What is true about the fiber diameter, and how thicker and thinner fibers differ?
Thicker fibers are stiffer, rougher, and wrinkle resistant.
| Thinner fibers are more drapable, soft, lightweight, and may be sheer.
33
The way a fiber feels
Hand
34
The characteristic of resisting damage and fiber loss by friction, and dismissing wear-life, causing loss of textural features and luster
Abrasion resistance
35
Formation of tiny balls of fiber ends and lint on the surface; aesthetically unpleasant, caused by wear and or abrasion, hydrophobic fibers and electrical static attraction
Pilling
36
Ability of a textile structure to occupy an area, covering power depends on structural features - cross sectional shape, etc., round covers less than flat
Covering power
37
Density of a fiber relative to that of water, which is 1
| -fibers that sink 1
Specific gravity
38
Ability of a fiber to be stretched
Elongation
39
Ability of a strained material to recover its original shape after being stretched
Elasticity
40
What are examples of materials that are elastometric fibers?
Spandex, elastrill-p, lastol, rubber
41
Ability of a fiber to return to its original shape after bending, stretching, and compression
Resiliency
42
A determining factor in strength (how much weight it can hold), measured by pounds per square inch
Tensile strength
43
Ability to resist stress, ability to withstand tension without tearing or breaking, and can be engineered into man-made fibers for high-performance materials
Strength
44
Ability to be repeatedly flexed or bent without breaking, impacts drape and comfort, an example is flax (has nodes to bend)
Flexibility
45
Retain given size and shape through use and care, shrinkage, relaxation, lack of elasticity, problems during wear and cleaning
Dimensional Stability
46
Sensitivity to heat, fibers that melt or glaze at relatively low temperatures, impacts cleaning and ironing temperature, permanent wrinkles, provide permanent creases or pleats
Thermoplasticity
47
Rate at which a material conducts heat, low rate is a better insulator, property dependent on fabric structure, low rate provides warmth, high rate provides cooling properties
Heat Conductivity
48
The ability of a material to ignite or burn, three types
Flammability
49
What are the three types of flammability?
1. Flammable fibers (ignites)
2. Flame resistant/retardant fibers (self-extinguish)
3. Flameproof (won't ignite)
50
The ability of a fiber to transfer electrical charges
Electrical Conductivity
51
Fibers with low electrical conductivity that build up charges, causing fabric cling or electrical shocks
Epitropic fibers
52
% of moisture or bone-dry that will absorb from air under standard conditions of temperature and moisture, natural fibers have much higher than man made fibers
Moisture absorbency
53
Which is easier to clean: hydrophilic or hydrophobic?
Hydrophilic
54
Which has a softer skin comfort: hydrophilic or hydrophobic?
Hydrophilic
55
Which is easier to dye: hydrophilic or hydrophobic?
Hydrophilic
56
Which has more static buildup: hydrophilic or hydrophobic?
Hydrophobic
57
Which has a greater water repellency: hydrophilic or hydrophobic?
Hydrophobic
58
Which has better wrinkle recovery: hydrophilic or hydrophobic?
Hydrophobic
59
The ability of a material to transfer moisture along its surface, adds to comfort, and resembles fluid moving up a candle
Wickability
60
What are the categories of fiber performance properties?
Aesthetics, Durability, Comfort, Safety
61
What are the 4 major natural fibers and what category do they fall into?
Cellulosic - Cotton, Flax (or linen)
| Protein - Wool, Silk
62
What are the 3 natural cellulosic fibers classifications?
1. Seed fibers
2. Bast fibers (stem)
3. Leaf fibers
63
What type of fiber is cotton?
Seed
64
Describe cotton.
The most important fiber in the world, an important cash crop, used for textiles since Ancient Egypt, grown in the US since establishment of southern countries, and used in the cotton gin invented by Eli Whitney to separate the seed and fiber
65
Who are the major world producers of cotton?
China, United States, India, Turkey, Pakistan, Uzbekistan, Brazil, Astoria, and Africa
66
Describe upland cotton.
95% of cotton production in the United States, short staple cotton, produced on the boll (seed pod)
67
What is the color of the majority of the raw cotton?
Creamy white
68
Is cotton a staple or filament fiber?
Staple
69
Ribbonlike twists that characterize mature cotton
Convolutions
70
What are some favorable properties of cotton?
Strong, good abrasion resistance, hydrophilic, absorbs moisture quickly and dries quickly which makes it comfortable, launderable/dry cleanable, no static or pilling, fair drape, inexpensive, 10% stronger when wet
71
What are some unfavorable properties of cotton?
Poor elasticity and resiliency, little luster, prone to mildew and silverfish, weakened by acidic materials and by many resins used in finishing, and produces lint
72
Fibers that come from the stem of the plant
Bast
73
What are some examples of bast fibers?
Flax, Ramie, Hemp, and Jute
74
Describe flax.
Found in prehistoric dwellings in Switzerland and in ancient Egypt, "flax" is the fiber name but "linen" is the fabric made from flax fiber, has nodes, resembles bamboo, flexible
75
What fiber is the strongest of all plant fibers?
Flax
76
"China grass"; China is major producer, can be harvested more than once a year; similar to flax
Ramie
77
Describe jute.
Primary use is burlap bags, retains shape, is strong and inexpensive, strengthens seams on carpet backing and cording
78
Which fiber is becoming popular for its "green fiber" label in the apparel market?
Hemp
79
Describe hemp.
Widely available, grows quickly and requires little maintenance, and used for twine, rope, and cordage
80
Define protein fibers.
Resilient (resists crushing and wrinkling/maintains shape), hydroscopic (picks up moisture from air, but takes long time to dry), weaker when wet, harmed by alkali (perspiration, soap), harmed by oxidizing agents (chlorine bleach, sunlight, fibers will yellow if not treated, harmed by dry heat, and flame resistant
81
What fiber is the standard for carpets? Is it the most widely used; why or why not?
Wool is the standard, but it is very expensive. Nylon makes up about 90% of all carpets and rugs.
82
Describe wool.
Most important protein fiber, primarily comes from sheep, most widely used prior to the Industrial Revolution
83
Wool is primarily retrieved from sheep. How many breeds of sheep are there? How many different types of wool are there?
40 breeds; 200 types
84
Where will you find the best quality of wool on a sheep? The poorest?
Back, sides, and shoulders; legs
85
What protein fiber is the only natural fiber with crimp? (Hint: It is also the best quality.)
Merino wool
86
What is the by-product of wool?
Lanolin
87
What are the 3 types of wool? Describe them.
1. Virgin wool: wool that has never been processed.
2. Wool: new wool or wool fibers that have been reclaimed from knit scrapes, broken thread, and short fibers.
3. Recycled wool: scraps of new woven or felted fabrics that have been shredded back to fibrous state and reused.
88
Of the 3 major types of wool, which is the most expensive? Least?
Virgin; recycled
89
Fabrics that have shorter fibers, are uncomfortable
Woolen
90
Fabrics that have longer fibers
Worsted
91
What are a few qualities of wool?
Durable, moderate abrasion resistance, very flexible
92
Is wool a good insulator? Why or why not?
Yes due to its crimp
93
What % of all fibers consumed in the United States are wool?
1%
94
Describe silk.
Natural protein fiber, produced by silkworms, not found in US (54% from China, 14% from India, and 11% from Japan), takes dye well, one of the strongest natural fibers but will lose 15% of strength when wet.
95
Why is silk considered a universally luxury fiber?
It has a dry, tactile hand, natural luster, it is the only natural filament fiber, it has good moisture absorption, good drapabilty, and high strength.
96
Production of silk
Sericulture
97
How many yards of unbroken fiber can silk produce?
1,600 yards
98
What are the 3 types of silk? Describe them.
1. Wild silk: production not controlled, moths eat any leaves, produces wide variety of colors.
2. Tussah silk: most common type, coarser, darker, and the color cannot be removed.
3. Duppioni silk: when 2 silkworms spin their cocoons together.
99
What fiber is the only natural filament fiber?
Silk
100
What is silk used for?
Upholstery, wall-covering fabrics, wall hangings, high quality blankets, duvet covers, sheets made from silk
101
What is the Micron system?
(Pending)
102
Describe manufactured/synthetic fibers.
Heat sensitive (thermoplastic), resistant to most chemicals, resistant to moths, fungi, and rot, low moisture absorbency, oleophilic, electrostatic (holds onto static/low conductivity), abrasion resistant, strong, resilient, sunlight resistant, flame resistance, pilling
103
Attraction to oily soil
Oleophilic
104
What was the first manufactured fiber in the early 1910s? What was the second (1924)?
Rayon; acetate
105
Which fiber was the first fully synthetic fiber (1938)?
Nylon
106
Definitions that are recognized by the Federal Trade Commission.
Generic
107
Enhanced generics
```
Subclasses
(Example: lyocell is subclass to rayon)
```
108
Names or symbols used by a manufacturer to distinguish its fibers from other fibers of the same generic class
Fiber trademarks
109
Synthetic fiber widely used for apparel, interiors, and industrial purposes
Rayon
110
Synthetic fiber that is inexpensive, has excellent drape and hand, has poor wet strength, and is used for lining fabric, ribbons, lingerie, and cigarette filters
Acetate
111
Synthetic fiber that is strong, has excellent color fastness, causes skin irritation, poor abrasion resistance, used for window treatments
Glass
112
Second-most-used synthetic fiber (behind polyester), 25% worldwide consumption (for carpets and floorcoverings)
Nylon
113
Describe the ideal nylon carpet.
Durable, resilient, and resistant to pilling, fading, traffic, abrasion, and soil and stains
114
This synthetic fiber is used for fake furs, wigs, fleece, stuffed animals, children's sleepwear, and upholstery and draperies.
Modacrylic
115
Synthetic replacement for wool
Acrylic
116
Describe acrylic.
Washable, less expensive, end uses are sweaters, blankets, carpeting, children's apparel, and indoor/outdoor fabrics
117
Describe HWM rayon.
Stronger wet strength and launderable
118
The #1 synthetic used fiber
Polyester
119
Describe polyester.
Wrinkle resistant, used for apparel, home furnishings, and industrial goods, has major problems with static, pilling, and stain removal
120
Describe spandex.
Lightweight elastomeric fiber used to replace rubber, end uses include denim, undergarments, swimwear, and athletic apparel
121
Describe olefin.
Superior wickability, used for running, cycling, diving, and surfing apparel, carpets, upholstery, and industrial uses
122
Subclass of olefin
Lastol
123
Describe lastol.
Excellent chemical resistance, lightweight, used for denim, intimate apparel, swimwear, and active apparel
124
Subclass of polyester, stretch and recovery (denim, shirts, and socks)
Elasterell-p
125
Describe microfibers.
Blends for added performance features or stand alone, widely used for apparel, upholstery, and industrial uses
126
Improves fabric performance, water and oil repellency, antimicrobial properties, filtration, and moisture control for comfort
Nanotechnology
127
What fiber is characterized by natural convolutions?
Cotton
128
Which type of wool has the highest quality?
Merino
129
T/F: Woolens have a higher quality than worsted.
False
130
Uncultivated silk
Wild silk
131
What is the #1 manufactured fiber?
Polyester (with the exception of nylon)
132
Synthetic substitution for wool
Acrylic
133
Vertical yarns
Warp
134
Horizontal yarns
Filling
135
Yarns parallel to the warp
Selvedge edge
136
A direction not parallel to the warp (vertical) or filling (horizontal); off-grain
Bias
137
Staple fibers make _______ yarns
Spun
138
Filament fibers yield _______ yarns
Filament
139
Describe staple fibers.
Short fiber lengths, fibers twisted or spun together
140
Describe spun yarns.
Continuous strands of staple fibers held together using mechanical twist, protruding ends hold the fabric away from the skin, making it more comfortable
141
Describe filament yarns.
Long, continuous fibers, do not require high twist (crepe is an exception), only includes manufactured fibers and silk
142
1 filament
Monofilament
143
More than 1 filament
Multifilament
144
Made from micro fibers
Microfilament
145
Yarns that have diameters finer than silk
Microfilament
146
What are the differences between spun and filament yarns for: uniformity, smoothness and luster, strength, and pilling?
1. Uniformity: filament
2. Smoothness and luster: filament
3. Strength: filament
4. Pilling: spun
147
TPI
Turns per inch
148
How is cost affected by the number of yarn twists for performance?
The more twists, the more expensive
149
T/F: Twist direction does not affect strength or abrasion resistance, but does affect surface appearance.
True
150
Yarn twisting to the right
S
151
Yarn twisting to the left
Z
152
Which is stronger: S or Z twist?
Neither; twist does NOT affect strength
153
What type of fiber has low or soft twist (about 2-12 tpi)?
Filament
154
Which fiber has medium or high twist (13-25 tpi) that increases strength with more twists?
Spun
155
Describe crepe twist.
40-80 tpi, "unbalanced yarns" or "lively yarns", twist and kink when removed from fabric
156
How is insulation affected by space between fibers?
The more space between fibers, the better the insulation.
157
How is wind resistance affected by space between fibers?
The less space between fibers, the better the wind resistance.
158
How does twist affect yarn strength?
The higher the twist, the stronger the yarn.
159
Standard by which spun yarns are judged, long and expensive process
Ring or Conventional Spinning
160
Describe ring-spun yarns.
Finer, better quality, fewer problems in fabrication
161
What does carding do for fibers?
Partially aligns them, forming them into a thin web brought together by sliver
162
Rope-like strand of fibers
Sliver
163
Describe combed cotton.
More expensive, better durability/higher strength, and more even
164
Yarn that is untwisted and pulls apart
Single yarn
165
When untwisted, it separates into 2 or more fibers
Ply yarns
166
Yarn when ply yarns are twisted together
Cord
167
What are specialty yarns?
Textured, stretch, high bulk, novelty, chenille, and metallic
168
What are the 3 types of methods for producing stretch textured yarn?
1. False twist
2. Knife edge
3. Gear crimping
(Note: All 3 involve heat setting the yarns to provide a permanent crimp.)
169
When filaments are put into a heated box to produce sawtooth crimp of considerable bulk
Stuffer box
170
Describe bulk yarns.
Low/minimal stretch, high bulk, fibers processed using hot water and steam to yield lofty, bulky, and soft yarns without stretch
171
What is the air jet method?
When hot air forces filaments into tiny loops, slow and more expensive
172
If a filament fiber becomes a staple fiber and then is spun, what type of yarn is it?
Spun
173
Which is going to pill more: filament or spun yarn?
Spun
174
Yarns that aren't uniform thickness, have irregularities of knots, bumps, and curls
Novelty yarns
175
What type of yarn will novelty yarns be: warp or filling?
Filling; will NEVER be introduced as warp yarn
176
"Caterpillar yarn" that is fuzzy and made from cutting leno woolen fabrics, resembles pipe cleaners
Chenille
177
Yarns using flat strips of filament metallic fibers, can be twisted or blended with another fiber such as nylon, mostly used for decorative purposes, expensive
Metallic yarns
178
Measure unit weight and length (for thickness of fabric), impacted by amount of twist and density or size, called "The Denier System"
Yarn Numbering System
179
Special yarns engineered and designed to pass through a sewing machine for stitching, may be spun, filament, or core spun
Sewing threads
180
T/F: Spun yarns are made from filament fibers.
False
181
T/F: Filament yarns are manufactured, and spun yarns are natural and manufactured fibers.
True
182
T/F: Crepe twist is the highest twist yarn.
True
183
T/F: The Z twist is stronger than the S twist.
False
184
Which is more expensive: card or combed?
Combed: takes longer, raises price
185
T/F: Spun yarns are the most comfortable.
True
186
T/F: Textured yarns are created using natural fibers with an inherent crimp.
False (only wool)
187
What fibers are used to make high bulk yarns?
Acrylic
188
T/F: The Denier System is based on weight and length.
True
189
Warp yarns run _______
Vertically
190
T/F: The selvedge edge is parallel to filling yarns.
False
191
T/F: Filament yarns require a high tpi.
False
192
T/F: Spun yarns have 20-25 tpi.
True
193
T/F: Less space between fibers is going to produce better insulation.
True
194
T/F: Ring spun yarns are finer and have better quality.
True
195
T/F: Worsted wools are combed.
True
196
T/F: The best way to identify ply yarn is to pull it apart into fibers when untwisted.
False
197
2 or more ply yarns twisted together
Cord
198
What are the three groupings of the textile industry?
1. Apparel goods
2. Interior furnishings
3. Industrial
