Exam 2 Flashcards
(147 cards)
1
Q
Raising 1 or more harnesses to separate warp yarns and form a shed
A
Shedding
2
Q
Passing the shuttle through the shed to insert the filling yarns
A
Picking
3
Q
Pushing the filling yarn into place in the fabric with the reed
A
Beating up
4
Q
Winding finished fabric onto the fabric beam
A
Take-up
5
Q
What is the air-jet loom?
A
Filling yarn is guided through a nozzle, a narrow jet of air sends it through the shed
Spun filling yarn, not too bulky
More picks per minute than water-jet, same as rapier loom
6
Q
What is the water-jet loom?
A
A high pressure jet of water carries the filling yarn across the warp
Nylon and polyester filament
Less picks per minute than rapier and air-jet
7
Q
What is the rapier loom?
A
Weaves spun yarns
1000 picks/minute, like air-jet
8
Q
What are the characteristics of woven fabrics?
A
Warp and filling yarns have different demands
Warp yarns are stronger, have less give, are smaller, have a higher twist, and are higher in count
Fancy yarns are usually in the filling yarn, and have a lower thread count
9
Q
Geometry of position of warp yarns relative to filling yarns
A
Grain
10
Q
What is off-grain?
A
Fabric quality is lower
Printed designs are NOT straight
Fabrics drape better when they’re cut on the bias
11
Q
What are two types of off-grain?
A
Skew - filling yarns are at an angle other than ninety degrees
Bow - filling yarns curve or dip below the warp yarns instead of being at right angles
12
Q
What are greige goods?
A
Fabric as it comes off the loom that hasn’t been dyed, printed, or finished
13
Q
What is fabric count/fabric density?
A
The number of warp or filling yarns per square inch
Count may increase due to shrinkage during dyeing and finishing
Count written as warp first, then filling
Higher count = higher quality
14
Q
What is balance?
A
The ratio of warp to filling yarns
Helpful in recognizing and naming fabrics
15
Q
What is a selvage?
A
A length-wise (vertical) self-edge of a fabric
Formed when filling yarns turn to back across fabric, on conventional (shuttle) looms
Shuttleless looms form different types of selvages
16
Q
What is fabric weight?
A
How much a fabric weighs for a given area of length
Lightweight - 4oz or less
Medium - 4oz-6oz
Heavy - more than 6oz
17
Q
What are the 3 basic woven structures/fabrications?
A
- Plain Weave
i. Rib Weave
ii. Basket Weave - Twill Weave
- Satin Weave
18
Q
What are plain weaves?
A
The simplest and least expensive way to produce a woven fabric
Balanced or unbalanced
Most widely use woven, made in any fabric
19
Q
Do plain weaves have a technical front and back?
A
No, unless printed
20
Q
What are the 3 primary methods for producing fabric?
A
Weaving, knitting, and fiber webbing
22
Q
Compare Georgette and Chiffon.
A
Both drape well
Originally made of silk, now mostly synthetic
Filament yarns
23
Q
Chiffon
A
Lightweight, sheer fabric
Smaller yarns, hard twist
Made with filament yarns
24
Q
Voile
A
Sheer fabric
Hard/voile twist
Spun yarn
More expensive, extra step: originally made from combed or worsted yarns
25
Q
Organdy
A
Sheerest cotton cloth
Always 100% cotton
Crisp hand, prone to wrinkling
26
Organza
Filament counterpart to organdy
| Good body, crisp hand
27
What are examples of thin, lightweight opaque fabrics?
Batiste and Calico
28
Batiste
Softest of all lightweight, opaque fabrics
Cotton, wool, polyester blends
Smooth, soft
29
Calico
Always printed, country kitchen
| Traditionally cotton
30
Chintz
Medium-to-heavyweight spun yarn
| Often finished with glaze
31
Muslin
Any plain, woven, balanced fabric of carded yarns
| Bleached, unbleached, printed, or dyed
32
Flanelette
Balanced and unbalanced
Slightly napped on one side
Medium and heavy weight
Often called 'flannel"
33
What's more expensive: printing or dyeing?
Dyeing
34
Gingham
Yarn-dyed
Cotton, cotton blends
Imitations are printed
35
What are heavyweight, plain woven fabrics?
"Bottom" or "suiting" weight
More durable and wrinkle resistant
Weigh more than 6oz per yard sqrd.
36
What are examples of heavyweight, plain fabrics?
Osnaburg, Tweed, and Crepe
37
Osnaburg
Variable weighted
Bits of leaf and bark from cotton plant
Utility fabric
38
Tweed
Any fiber or blend characterized by novelty yarns with nubs of different colors
Suits, overcoats -> yarns are fiber-dyed
40
What is an example of a ribbed plain weave? Explain.
Bengaline; warp yarns are spun and filling yarns are filament, horizontal yarns are thicker, more noticeable, form direction
41
What are examples of basket weaves?
Dimity, Oxford, Chambray, and Duck
42
What is the sturdiest woven structure?
Twill weaves
43
Describe the "float" of the warp and filling yarns of Twill Weaves.
Each warp or filling yarn floats across 2 or more filling or warp yarns with a progression of interlacing by 1 to the left or 1 to the right (appears to go up and to the left, for example)
Fractions 2/1 (would be read "2 up, 1 down")
44
A portion of a yarn that crosses over 2 or more yarns from the opposite direction
Float
45
What are characteristics of twill weaves?
Have the most pronounced wale line
| Printed twills are less common
46
Georgette
Lightweight, sheer
Direction of crepe twist for warp and filling alternatives, smoother and more lustrous than chiffon
Made with filament yarns
47
What are examples of lightweight, sheer fabrics?
Georgette, Chiffon, Voile, Organdy, and Organza
49
Crepe
Yarns in either warp or filling of both known as true crepe
| Any weight - most often medium or heavy weight
50
What is important about the twill weave Serge?
It is reversible
51
What are the characteristics of the twill weave Herringbone?
"Reversed broken" wale line
| Resembles fish
52
What are the characteristics of the twill weave Houndstooth?
8-point pattern
| Color and weave effect
53
What are warp-faced twills?
More warp yarns on the face
| Stronger, better abrasion resistance, resists pilling
54
What are examples of warp-faced twills?
Chino
| Ticking
55
What are characteristics of Satin weaves?
Technical back may look like twill
Lustrous
Each warp floats over 4 filling yarns and interlaces with the 5th
56
What are examples of Satin weaves?
Crepe-back Satin
Antique Satin
Sateen (Filling Sateen)
57
What are the differences between Satin and Sateen?
Sateen - cotton, can be washed, more durable
| Satin - silk, can't be washed
58
W-pile
Interlaces with more filling yarns
59
V-pile
Interlaces with fewer yarns
60
What are examples of pile fabrics?
Velvet
Velour
Terrycloth
61
What is the Double-Cloth Method?
1. Two fabrics are woven, one above the other.
| 2. The fabrics are cut apart while still on the loom.
62
Describe velvet.
- made from filament yarns
| - technical front and back
63
Describe Velour.
Warp pile cotton fabric (staple)
| Deeper pile/heavier than velveteen
64
What is the over-wire method?
A single cloth is woven with wires placed across the width of the loom, positioned above ground warp and under pile warp
65
Describe Terrycloth.
Each loop acts as a tiny sponge
66
What are characteristics of fancy weaves and fabrics?
Made by changing the interlacing pattern between the design area and background
Requires modifications to the basic loom or a more complicated loom
67
Contains simple, geometric forms and motifs
Dobby Pattern
68
Produced detailed and intricate patterns
Jacquard pattern
69
Patterns are created using an extra set of warp or filling yarns
Clip spots
70
Manipulates colored yarns and weaves
Color and weave effect
71
What are examples of fancy weaves and fabrics?
Matelasse
Leno weave
Transportation upholstery
72
Describe Matelasse.
Double cloth construction made with 3 or 4 sets of yarns.
| 2 sets are regular warp/filling, others are crepe or coarse cotton yarns
73
Describe Leno weave.
Warp yarns are not parallel, work in pairs of 2
| 1 yarn crossed over the other before filling yarn is inserted
74
Describe Transportation Upholstery.
Durable
75
Describe knitted fabrics.
The formation of fabrics by the interlooping of one or more sets of yarns.
- faster than weaving, but increased cost of yarn offsets any savings
- not as old a technique as weaving
- 5% shrinkage (only 2% for wovens)
- good appearance retention
- snagging = major problem
- 1+ yarns formed into interlooping loops
- faster than weaving
76
Which is generally heavier: knitted or woven fabrics?
Knitted
77
What is gauge or cut?
Indicates the fineness of the stitch
| Expressed as "needles per inch" (npi) (the higher the number, the finer the stitch)
78
What are the 2 categories of knits?
1. Filling or Weft knits
| 2. Warp knits
79
What is the difference between velvet and velveteen?
Velvet (always made from filament yarns)
| Velveteen (always made from 100% cotton)
80
What fabric is the flattest of all the Jacquard wovens?
Damask
81
Describe nonwoven fabrics.
Web of fibers
| Produced by bonding or interlocking fibers via a mechanical, chemical, thermal, or solvent
82
What is the oldest example of nonwoven fabrics?
Handi-wipes (1950s)
83
Describe the production of nonwoven fabrics.
- faster than knitting or weaving
- wide weight range (15 grams-1 meter)
- versatility
- low cost
84
What is the difference between durable and disposable nonwoven fabrics?
Durable: can be used repeatedly (carpet backings)
Disposable: made with the intention of being thrown away after a single or number of uses (diapers, surgical gowns)
85
What are the 3 methods for producing nonwovens?
1. Drylaid: most widely used, least expensive
2. Wetlaid: least used, extra step
3. Spunlaid: mechanical, chemical/adhesive, or fusing/thermal, thermoplastic
86
Describe carded-web nonwovens.
- first
- largest volume
- use most of any staple fiber (drylaid or wetlaid)
- disposable items (cook's hats, bed sheets)
87
Describe spunbonded nonwovens.
- filament spun into web
- interlocked using thermal, entanglement, or adhesive bonding
- strong
- variety of weights
88
Describe spunlaced nonwovens.
- formed by wetlaid staple fibers using high pressure
- knot and curl around each other
- no binding is used yielding an end product that is soft, bulky, and disposable
- robes, mattress pads, quilts, mops
89
Describe melt-blown nonwovens.
- spunlaid micro-denier sized filament that breaks into staple fiber
- insulation properties
- low fiber strength and low abrasion resistance
- thinsulate
90
Describe needle-punched nonwovens.
- "mechanical felt" and "needle-punched felt"
- made from staple fiber
- drylaid, entangled to form a web
- web passes through barbed or hooked needles which further entangles the web
91
Describe nonwoven wipes.
- wet, dry, or coated
- Rayon, Polyester, and Polypropylene
- stiffer pairs, Clorox disinfecting wipes
92
Felt
- oldest known textile
- 50-100% wool (blended only with cotton or rayon)
- arranged in layers of thin webs
- webs are moistened and then passed through heated rollers
- fabric shrunk to as much as 50%
- can be as thin as 1/32 inch or 3 inches
93
Quilted material
- insulating filler secured between two layers of fabric
- layers held together by sewing or bonding
- filler may be polyester, fiberfill, batting, polyurethane foam or down
- coats, robes, quilts, ,actress pads, sleeping bags
94
Stitch bonding
Needles and threads are used to sew or stitch yarns and fibers together into a fabric by creating a web
-Malimo fabrics
95
Films
Made directly from a polymer solution by casting solution on a hot drum
Imitation leather
96
Lace fabrics
- decorative design created with threads or yarns on a netlike, open background
- most complicated
- produced in all widths
- handmade or machine lace
97
Handmade lace
- low quality, high in price
- work, skill, and time intensive
- France, Belgium, Italy, Ireland (expensive)
98
What are the 4 types of handmade lace?
1. Bobbin or pillow lace
2. Crocheted lace
3. Battenburg lace
4. Tatted lace
99
Bobbin or pillow lace
Pattern drawn on paper, pins are inserted at various points
| Yarns on bobbins wrapped around pins
100
Crocheted lace
By hand with a crochet needles
| Brought to America by Irish immigrants
101
Tatted lace
- small shuttle
| - small, tight design
102
Machine-made lace
- Leavers machines produce finest, most intricate design (more expensive)
- Nottingham machine produces heavier, rougher textured idea
- Leavers lace made on machine, very expensive
103
Embroidery
- creating/producing raised design on woven fabrics, paper, plastic, and rarely on knits
- practically all done on machine (Schiffli machine)
- lightweight fabrics
- Eyelet
- always done on piece of fabric, lace is stand-alone
104
Tufted fabrics
- pile fabric
- inserting extra yarns into already-woven fabric
- cut or looped
- heavier fabrics (carpets, upholstery, blankets)
- tufted pile
- tufting done using series of needles
- cut or uncut loops
- inexpensive, fast
105
Which fabric is created the fastest: nonwovens, knitted, or woven?
Nonwovens
106
What are the 2 categories of nonwovens?
1. Durable
| 2. Disposable
107
What were the first nonwovens created?
Carded web nonwovens
108
What type of woven is Tyvek?
Spunbonded
109
What is the oldest known textile?
Felt
110
What is "true felt"?
The fabric is 100% wool of at least 50% blended with only cotton or rayon.
111
Permanence of color
Colorfastness
112
What are the factors that affect colorfastness?
Sunlight
Moisture
Gas
Abrasion
113
What are 3 ways to impart color?
1. Conventional dyeing
2. Pigment application
3. Solution dyeing
114
Conventional dyeing
- use of dye stuffs (chemical or organic) and water
- "aqueous dyeing"
- fiber dyed all the way through
- most widely used
115
What is the process of conventional dyeing?
- mix water, dye, and textile material
- step can take minutes-hours depending on fiber
- dye bath is heated to boiling point and agitated to ensure uniformity
- scouted and rinsed until water is clear, prevents crocking
116
Crocking
Color rubbing off (mostly onto other clothes)
117
Depth of Shade
- the darkness or lightness of color
- depending on the ratio of dye to fiber, yarn, fabric, or garment
- darker colors are more expensive because more due is required, causing it to take longer
118
Dye classes
- thousands of dyestuffs (chemical and organic in nature)
- protein, cellulose, and synthetic fibers take dyes differently
- affinity: dye combines adequately with fiber
119
Color matching
Textile dyer and chemist to match a designer color with the proper dye that will meet the colorfastness requirements
Color match formulas developed for lab dip
120
Lap dip
Determines color standard
121
Dye lots
May differ in shade
122
Color Management Systems
Computerized systems widely used for color and shade matching
123
Spectrophotometer
Software component that reads and scans colors to make matches
124
Metamerism
"Color flare"
| When colors appear the same under one light, but took different under another one
125
What are the names for dyeing that is done in each/any stage?
- stock/top dyeing: dye fiber before it is spun
- yarn dyeing: dye yarns before weaving/knitting
- piece dyeing: dye a woven or knitted
- garment dyeing: dyeing a completed garment
126
What are the 3 types of specialty dyeing?
1. Cross dyeing
2. Union dyeing
3. Tone on tone effects
127
Cross dyeing
- produced when fabric/garment made from 2 or more different fibers having different dye affinities
- process may be used to produce stripes and plaids
- quick and economical
128
Union dyeing
- same as cross dyeing except, instead of a multicolor results, only one solid color is produced
- 2 or more dues in the dye bath
- 2 different fibers, one color
129
Tone-on-tone effects
Create light and dark shades of the same color in a fabric containing only 1 generic fiber
Uses one dye, creates shades and tints
130
Solution dyeing
Used for hydrophobic and heat sensitive fibers
| Fade proof under all conditions
131
What are the different types of imperfections?
- barre
- color crocking
- color bleeding
- off shade
- shade bar
- stained, streaked, or colorspots
- tender spots: weakened spot
- uneven shade
132
Barre
A horizontal band of off-shaded yarns extending across fabric
133
Color crocking
Color in a dyed fabric that rubs off rather easily onto other fabric surfaces
134
Color bleeding
Loss of color from a dyed fabric when immersed in a liquid
135
Off shade
Color of the dyed fabric does not match the standard
136
Shade bar
Shade change in a fabric that appears as a horizontal selvage-to-selvage change
137
Stained, streaked, or color spots
Discolored area on the cloth
138
Tender spots
Places in the fabric that have been excessively weakened
139
Uneven shade
Differences in the shade of a fabric from edge to edge
140
Which fabric is the only reversible twill weave?
Serge
141
What fabric is a reversed broken twill that looks like a fishbone?
Herringbone suiting
142
Which twill weave has a double wale line, and is the sturdiest of all the warp-faced twills?
Calvary twill
143
Which warp-faced Satin has a technical face and back?
Satin
144
What fabric is the flattest of all Jacquard wovens?
Damask
145
What fabric is made with filament and novelty metallic yarns?
Brocade
146
What fabric has a double cloth with a space/gap in the middle?
Pocket cloth
147
What fabric has a misstitch/what does it look like?
Jacquard Jersey Knit Stitch
| Horizontal, striped, stitching, ugly, far different than patterned front
148
Which double filling knit fabric is napped and brushed?
Jacquard Double Knit
149
Which fabric has visible, horizontal courses?
Purl Knit
150
Which fabric is the bane of all of existence?
Silver-pile knit
