Exam 3 Flashcards
(181 cards)
Capillary waves
The smallest waves
Dispersion
where the velocity depends on wavelength
Gravity Waves
Larger waves
Wavelength of capillary waves
Less than about 2 cm
Example of dispersion
The longer the wavelength, the slower the wave speed
What provides the restoring force in the oscillation of small water waves?
Surface tension of the fluid
What does tension act like in water waves?
A string or drumhead
Deep vs Shallow water speed
Deep: faster
Shallow: slower
Wave height
Is measured from the trough to the crest
Wave steepness
Is measured by dividing the height by the wavelength
Fetch
The distance over which a constant wind blows to generate a wave field
Fully developed sea
A sea for which the input of energy to the waves from the local wind is in balance with the transfer energy among different wave components, and with the dissipation of energy by wave breaking
Whitecaps
Are surf that breaks in deep water when the height ~ wavelength divided by 12
Why do ocean waves “break” as they approach a gradually sloping beach?
Because they slow down, so their wavelengths decrease and heights increase
Neap tides
Are tides that have less range from low to high. The moon is vertical from the Earth
Spring tides
Are tides that have more ranges from low to high. The moon is horizontal from the Earth
What causes ocean tides?
The gravitational pull of the moon on water
When does high tide occur?
Every 12 hours and 15 minutes (an hour late each day)
Seiche wave
A standing wave in an enclosed of partially enclosed body of water (sway back and forth)
Tsunami waves
A series of water waves caused by the displacement of a large volume of a body of water
Hull wave
The wave that forms at the hull of a ship when it moves through the water
Bow wave
The wave that forms at the bow of a ship when it moves through the water
Quarter wave
The wave that forms at the quarter of a ship when it moves through the water
Planing hull
Are designed to rise up and glide on top of water when enough power is supplied to avoid high wave drag and can travel much faster