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Flashcards in Exam 3 Deck (35)
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1. Name the 3 major categories of sleeves. Know some standards for evaluating them; find these posted on d2l in course content.

• Set-In Sleeves
• Kimono Sleeves
• Raglan Sleeves


2. Name major waistline treatments. Know some standards for evaluating them.

• Waistbands (contour & straight)
• Curtain Waistband
• Applied Elastic
• Edge Casings for Elastic
• Waistline Facings


3. Name the 3 major collar types as classified by their inner neckline seam. Know some overall standards for evaluating collars; find these posted on d2l in course content.

• Flat
• Standing
• Rolled


4. Name the 3 major categories of pockets. Look over standards associated with each type (d2l content).

• Patch, Surface or Applied Pockets
• Inseam Pockets
• Slashed Pockets


5. What helps determine the cost of pleats? What are considerations in designing with pleats?

• To help determine the cost of pleats, consider the amount of labor required. Also, the amount of fabric that is required for the pleats (if they are deep or not).
• Considerations in designing with pleats include what type of fabric you are working with and what kind of pleats will work well with them.


6. In tailored jackets, the roll line is reinforced with what?

• It is reinforced with stay tape (or twill tape)


7. Which pocket type can also be connected to, or create, a closure?

• Inseam pocket


8. What considerations can help ensure that pleats can be permanently set?

• If the fabric can be heat set (and is thermoplastic) then the pleats will be maintained


9. Which type of waistband allows for ease of alteration? How?

• Curtain because the waistline can be taken in or let out at the center back seam. Most waistbands are cut in one piece so the whole waistband would need to be removed to do an alteration.


10. Where are chest pieces found? (On what type of garment?)

• Men’s suit jackets or blazers


11. The cheapest shoulder pads, and the ones that discolor, are what type?

• Foam


12. Name some types of tucks (give variations of the plain tuck). What directions can tucks run? What are some standards or considerations of well executed tucks?

• Inverted tucks, released tucks, dart-tucks, pin tucks, spaced tucks, blind tucks, scalloped/shell tucks, crossed tucks, and corded tucks
• Tucks can run in any direction; vertical, horizontal, diagonal


13. Define lace. It could be an acceptable trim on what kind of garments? How is the cost of lace determined?

• Lace is a fabric structure resulting from twisting and knotting yarns around one another.
• It could be acceptable trim on bridal wear, lingerie, and girls dresses.
• The cost of lace is determined by its fiber content and the complexity of its design and production.


14. How are contrast fabric trim and color blocking similar?

• They both use fabrics that contrast from the main fabric of the garment to add aesthetic appeal, rather than relying on other purchased linear trims or stitchery or hard trims as beads, sequins


15. What are differences between fusible interfacing and hand pad stitched interfacing? On what type and price categories of garments are they found?

• Fusible Interfacing – has a heat sensitive adhesive on the back; a hot press is used to melt the adhesive and laminate the interfacing to the back of the fashion fabric
• Hand Pad Stitched Interfacing – hair canvas that is stitched into the garment by hand


16. Name the parts of a tailored, or classic notched collar. The highest quality one will have how many parts?

• Collar (proper), lapel, gorgeline; there will be a bit of a stand area, too. There are 3 main pieces (right and left undercollar and upper colloar)


17. On simple garments, trims used can be more , compared with the appropriate trims for more detailed garment styles.



18. Describe how a straight ruffle is made and how a circular ruffle is made. What can indicate quality for straight cut ruffles?

• A straight ruffle is made from a straight piece of fabric and attached along the long edge of a single ply of fabric to the garment
• A circle ruffle is cut in a partial – or even whole circle - and straightened at the inner edge when sewing so that it is attached to the control piece of the garment without gathers


19. Tell what you know about a tailored two piece sleeve. Would it be set in the round or set in flat?

• Tailored two piece sleeves consist of two portions, the main sleeve piece and a second, more narrow shaped sleeve piece positioned under the arm
• The seams that attach the second piece are dart substitutes that shape the elbow area so the sleeve follows the natural curve of the arm
• They usually cost more to produce; price escalates when an opening with buttons and buttonholes is at the hem
• They are set in the round


20. What is an inset band? Why can it be considered complex? How is it different from a collar?

• It completes the upper garment’s neckline edge; usually it is made of a contrasting color to the garment. It can be considered complex as the shapes it is made in are sometimes complex. It also has to be faced. (But sometimes they are made in ‘mock’ fashion using topstitching).


21. Name some soft trims. Name some hard trims. What may be typical of the fabrics and/or garment styles that each will be found on?

• Lace, ribbons, braids, ruffles, bows, other straight trims
- Found on children’s, bridal, lingerie, and dressy adult clothing
• Fasteners, belts, buckles, beads, sequins
- Found on adult clothing, dressy and trending


22. Write about kimono style sleeves; define their fit and fabric use, and their ease or difficulty of construction. How/why is a gusset associated with some kimono or dolman sleeves?

• They are simplest to construct because they are cut as one with the body of the garment. When kimono sleeves are fit close to the body, obvious wrinkles at the underarm appear. When the garment is fit loosely they are soft folds of excess fabric
• The gusset is used in the underarm of fitted kimono sleeves; it is triangular or diamond shaped and it increases the roominess and comfort of the sleeve. It is used when a closely fitted kimono is desired .


23. Which type of sleeve placket is associated with men’s dress shirts? Is it quicker or more time-consuming than other types, in terms of construction steps?

• Tailored placket, it is the most complex and costly to manufacture


24.There are two main ways that trim can be applied. The way that takes more planning and integration with the steps in the garment construction process is known as?

* Inset trim application is carefully considered before the garment is actually being produced and it is inserted during the production process; this takes more planning
* But trim can be applied after garment is finished, too and this one takes less planning. It is more of an afterthought- as if the garment may appear to be too simple without the addition of the trim.


24. Identify parts of garments where interfacing should typically be used.

• In collars, cuffs, front closure areas, inside suit jackets’ front body areas, in hems of body and sleeve of jackets


25. What are some considerations that make pocket construction quicker? More slow and painstaking?

• Patch pockets with square, not rounded edges are quickest, especially when not lined. Slashed pockets are most time consuming and difficult. Some exposed in-seam pockets can take a bit more time, too (think frontier or Western pockets on jeans). Concealed in-seam pockets are fairly quick to construct.
• These also make pocket construction slow and painstaking: Any applique, trim or complex seams.


26. Comment on fabric use (i.e., how much fabric: more or less?) for some different waistline treatments.

• Curtained waistbands take more fabric because there is more fabric that allows for the ease- generous seam allowance- at center back and there is also bias cut fabric used in the curtain


27. Comment on fabric use for some different sleeve styles.

• Kimono sleeves can take a lot more fabric than the other two major types because the garment front, back and sleeve are all laid and cut together in one large piece of fabric


28. Closures can also add trim to garments. How? Sketch some examples. Think like a designer: Recall as many closures as you can to appreciate the diversity they can provide to design of a garment.

• Buttons can be used to add trim because they could be there for no other reason than for decoration and may not be functional
• Zippers can be used for trim if they are noticeable on the garment and can be colored or metal


29. Is a high or low cap sleeve associated with comfort for the wearer? The original sloper’s sleeve (from which all other pattern designs are developed) is closer to which type?

• Low cap sleeve is more comfortable. The original sloper’s sleeve is closer to high cap sleeve