Exam 3

Question 1

1. Name the 3 major categories of sleeves. Know some standards for evaluating them; find these posted on d2l in course content.

Answer 1

• Set-In Sleeves
• Kimono Sleeves
• Raglan Sleeves

Question 2

2. Name major waistline treatments. Know some standards for evaluating them.

Answer 2

• Waistbands (contour & straight)
• Curtain Waistband
• Applied Elastic
• Edge Casings for Elastic
• Waistline Facings

Question 3

3. Name the 3 major collar types as classified by their inner neckline seam. Know some overall standards for evaluating collars; find these posted on d2l in course content.

Answer 3

• Flat
• Standing
• Rolled

Question 4

4. Name the 3 major categories of pockets. Look over standards associated with each type (d2l content).

Answer 4

• Patch, Surface or Applied Pockets
• Inseam Pockets
• Slashed Pockets

Question 5

5. What helps determine the cost of pleats? What are considerations in designing with pleats?

Answer 5

• To help determine the cost of pleats, consider the amount of labor required. Also, the amount of fabric that is required for the pleats (if they are deep or not).
• Considerations in designing with pleats include what type of fabric you are working with and what kind of pleats will work well with them.

Question 6

6. In tailored jackets, the roll line is reinforced with what?

Answer 6

• It is reinforced with stay tape (or twill tape)

Question 7

7. Which pocket type can also be connected to, or create, a closure?

Answer 7

• Inseam pocket

Question 8

8. What considerations can help ensure that pleats can be permanently set?

Answer 8

• If the fabric can be heat set (and is thermoplastic) then the pleats will be maintained

Question 9

9. Which type of waistband allows for ease of alteration? How?

Answer 9

• Curtain because the waistline can be taken in or let out at the center back seam. Most waistbands are cut in one piece so the whole waistband would need to be removed to do an alteration.

Question 10

10. Where are chest pieces found? (On what type of garment?)

Answer 10

• Men’s suit jackets or blazers

Question 11

11. The cheapest shoulder pads, and the ones that discolor, are what type?

Answer 11

• Foam

Question 12

12. Name some types of tucks (give variations of the plain tuck). What directions can tucks run? What are some standards or considerations of well executed tucks?

Answer 12

• Inverted tucks, released tucks, dart-tucks, pin tucks, spaced tucks, blind tucks, scalloped/shell tucks, crossed tucks, and corded tucks
• Tucks can run in any direction; vertical, horizontal, diagonal

Question 13

13. Define lace. It could be an acceptable trim on what kind of garments? How is the cost of lace determined?

Answer 13

• Lace is a fabric structure resulting from twisting and knotting yarns around one another.
• It could be acceptable trim on bridal wear, lingerie, and girls dresses.
• The cost of lace is determined by its fiber content and the complexity of its design and production.

Question 14

14. How are contrast fabric trim and color blocking similar?

Answer 14

• They both use fabrics that contrast from the main fabric of the garment to add aesthetic appeal, rather than relying on other purchased linear trims or stitchery or hard trims as beads, sequins

Question 15

15. What are differences between fusible interfacing and hand pad stitched interfacing? On what type and price categories of garments are they found?

Answer 15

• Fusible Interfacing – has a heat sensitive adhesive on the back; a hot press is used to melt the adhesive and laminate the interfacing to the back of the fashion fabric
• Hand Pad Stitched Interfacing – hair canvas that is stitched into the garment by hand

Question 16

16. Name the parts of a tailored, or classic notched collar. The highest quality one will have how many parts?

Answer 16

• Collar (proper), lapel, gorgeline; there will be a bit of a stand area, too. There are 3 main pieces (right and left undercollar and upper colloar)

Question 17

17. On simple garments, trims used can be more , compared with the appropriate trims for more detailed garment styles.

Answer 17

elaborately

Question 18

18. Describe how a straight ruffle is made and how a circular ruffle is made. What can indicate quality for straight cut ruffles?

Answer 18

• A straight ruffle is made from a straight piece of fabric and attached along the long edge of a single ply of fabric to the garment
• A circle ruffle is cut in a partial – or even whole circle - and straightened at the inner edge when sewing so that it is attached to the control piece of the garment without gathers

Question 19

19. Tell what you know about a tailored two piece sleeve. Would it be set in the round or set in flat?

Answer 19

• Tailored two piece sleeves consist of two portions, the main sleeve piece and a second, more narrow shaped sleeve piece positioned under the arm
• The seams that attach the second piece are dart substitutes that shape the elbow area so the sleeve follows the natural curve of the arm
• They usually cost more to produce; price escalates when an opening with buttons and buttonholes is at the hem
• They are set in the round

Question 20

20. What is an inset band? Why can it be considered complex? How is it different from a collar?

Answer 20

• It completes the upper garment’s neckline edge; usually it is made of a contrasting color to the garment. It can be considered complex as the shapes it is made in are sometimes complex. It also has to be faced. (But sometimes they are made in ‘mock’ fashion using topstitching).

Question 21

21. Name some soft trims. Name some hard trims. What may be typical of the fabrics and/or garment styles that each will be found on?

Answer 21

• Lace, ribbons, braids, ruffles, bows, other straight trims
- Found on children’s, bridal, lingerie, and dressy adult clothing
• Fasteners, belts, buckles, beads, sequins
- Found on adult clothing, dressy and trending

Question 22

22. Write about kimono style sleeves; define their fit and fabric use, and their ease or difficulty of construction. How/why is a gusset associated with some kimono or dolman sleeves?

Answer 22

• They are simplest to construct because they are cut as one with the body of the garment. When kimono sleeves are fit close to the body, obvious wrinkles at the underarm appear. When the garment is fit loosely they are soft folds of excess fabric
• The gusset is used in the underarm of fitted kimono sleeves; it is triangular or diamond shaped and it increases the roominess and comfort of the sleeve. It is used when a closely fitted kimono is desired .

Question 23

23. Which type of sleeve placket is associated with men’s dress shirts? Is it quicker or more time-consuming than other types, in terms of construction steps?

Answer 23

• Tailored placket, it is the most complex and costly to manufacture

Question 24

24.There are two main ways that trim can be applied. The way that takes more planning and integration with the steps in the garment construction process is known as?

Answer 24

• Inset trim application is carefully considered before the garment is actually being produced and it is inserted during the production process; this takes more planning
• But trim can be applied after garment is finished, too and this one takes less planning. It is more of an afterthought- as if the garment may appear to be too simple without the addition of the trim.

Question 25

24. Identify parts of garments where interfacing should typically be used.

Answer 25

• In collars, cuffs, front closure areas, inside suit jackets’ front body areas, in hems of body and sleeve of jackets

Question 26

25. What are some considerations that make pocket construction quicker? More slow and painstaking?

Answer 26

* Patch pockets with square, not rounded edges are quickest, especially when not lined. Slashed pockets are most time consuming and difficult. Some exposed in-seam pockets can take a bit more time, too (think frontier or Western pockets on jeans). Concealed in-seam pockets are fairly quick to construct. * These also make pocket construction slow and painstaking: Any applique, trim or complex seams.

Question 27

26. Comment on fabric use (i.e., how much fabric: more or less?) for some different waistline treatments.

Answer 27

• Curtained waistbands take more fabric because there is more fabric that allows for the ease- generous seam allowance- at center back and there is also bias cut fabric used in the curtain

Question 28

27. Comment on fabric use for some different sleeve styles.

Answer 28

• Kimono sleeves can take a lot more fabric than the other two major types because the garment front, back and sleeve are all laid and cut together in one large piece of fabric

Question 29

28. Closures can also add trim to garments. How? Sketch some examples. Think like a designer: Recall as many closures as you can to appreciate the diversity they can provide to design of a garment.

Answer 29

* Buttons can be used to add trim because they could be there for no other reason than for decoration and may not be functional * Zippers can be used for trim if they are noticeable on the garment and can be colored or metal

Question 30

29. Is a high or low cap sleeve associated with comfort for the wearer? The original sloper’s sleeve (from which all other pattern designs are developed) is closer to which type?

Answer 30

• Low cap sleeve is more comfortable. The original sloper’s sleeve is closer to high cap sleeve

Question 31

30. Think of as many styles of sleeves as you can. Realize they can vary in length, fullness, placket, and cuff treatments. Do some sketching to show the breadth of possibilities.

Answer 31

- long, short, 3/4, etc

Question 32

31. Are garment styles patented? What did you learn about a patented production process or style in class?

Answer 32

• to receive a patent and the exclusive right to produce an item or a feature within an item the product must represent a new and useful invention. We read of Lululemon’s waistline and Davidow’s single layer tailoring.

Question 33

32. What is meant by bagging the lining? List, and show your understanding of other terms that pertain to lining. What would you look for in a high quality lining? Name some fibers typically used for linings.

Answer 33

• This is used by most manufacturers at several price ranges, though we may tend to associate it with cheaper and quicker production. The lining and garment are sewn separately. Then the lining and garment are placed right sides together and sewn around almost all edges. An opening or gap is left in the stitching, forming a bag. The entire garment is then pulled through this bag and the opening is sewn shut (the opening can be at the side seam in the lining or in the underarm of one of the sleeves). Careful pressing is then necessary around the style edges of the jacket

Question 34

33. Which type of pocket can be most discrete? Which pocket type can be varied to really attract attention?

Answer 34

* Inseam pocket (of the closed type) is the most discrete because it is put in right where the seam is and is not visible; an open inseam pocket has a portion of the waist-to-almost hip area visible. * Patch

Question 35

34. Be familiar with readings from the course packet and resources on d2l.

Answer 35

go on d2l